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DMC = Disassembled Motor Car

Quote of the Week:
"I have like a month left to finish this car."  -Me
"What am I talking about? I've got all the time in the world,
 I've got a time machine!" -M
arty McFly

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April 14-20, 2002

I did make a bit of headway in my idling problem. It seems that the J&S spark controller was the issue. However, it boiled down to a bad crimp on one of the unit's wires, so I soldered it, and then it worked fine.

The car then idled fairly well, with just a little 'burping' here and there. While doing some adjustments, I noticed an odd reaction. If I backed out the set screw for the idle microswitch, the idle speed would jump and the engine would run much more smoothly. I'm stumped on that one.

Also I noticed that spraying a very -light- mist of carb cleaner on the air intake resulted in a very smooth idle. This would lead me to believe there is a vacuum leak or lean condition. I did check all of the vacuum lines and could not see anything amiss there. So it's running lean methinks, but perhaps due to low fuel pressure? The CO set screw has not been tampered with.

Disconnecting the O2 sensor (but not grounding the wire) did not have any effect on the idle.

I tried to remove the fuel distributor in an attempt to clean the piston, but only one bolt would break free. I got around that by bending a small piece of brake line into a curve, and inserting it down through the intake and through the back middle of the lever on the air plate, and sprayed carb cleaner through the line. I am fortunate enough to have a parts engine, so I mocked this arrangement up and verified that the cleaner did indeed hit the bottom of the piston. With the control pressure line removed, I worked the air plate quickly back and forth and heard/felt the little puffs of air from the outlet, and I'm now satisfied that the piston is clean and free.

With that, I moved on to the control pressure regulator, and removed the fuel lines and blew compressed air through the smaller port to clean the screen (it was already spotless by the way) as per the instructions on the Tech Page. I also shot a little carb cleaner through the idle speed motor, and verified it was moving correctly & smoothly.

With all of that completed, I restarted the engine and the car idled fairly smoothly, and had snappy acceleration for about an hour. Then, it suddenly just quit, and would not restart. In fact, it still will not start. Well, let me correct that statement -- it will start and run briefly, then quit. And that's not just at idle, but at any pedal/throttle position.

I tried the quicky hot-start trick by using the connector from the CPR to the cold start injector, and the car started. So now I'm thinking fuel pressure. (I'm ruling out an ignition problem if the car will start with this trick, and the J&S spark controller is currently bypassed). There is enough residual fuel pressure to give the air plate a firm feel though. Unfortunately, I do not have a high pressure fuel gauge as yet, so I am just guessing. Since my pump -is- rather loud, I decided to check the suction hose in the tank. The hose is in nice shape, but rather soft, so I am going to try the stainless steel spring fix to ensure there will not be a collapse.

What -was- rather distressing is that some fuel additive or other had started to melt my pump support boot. It was a new boot, but probably from around 89 or so, and was likely made from a compound not suitable for today's fuels. That will of course be replaced. Glad I caught it before it got bad. It is something like black "gel" around the bottom right now, but there is no contamination that I could see in the tank. In fact, the baffle is still bright and clean, and the pickup screen is clean and fully intact.


A cache of fuel distributors.  Left to right: Delorean original, rebuilt Volvo, Volvo GLE (adjustable ports).

 


Is my hairline receding?


Stainless exhaust tips.  Took me a long time to find ones that looked this nice. The spare leaks, of course.  Needs the aluminum around the bead cleaned.


See the TVR "VIXEN" Emblems?  I couldn't resist.


When's the last time you saw this much R12?  F@#$#%ng hippies have made it like $50 a can now, if you can find it & get it without an EPA license. (Yes, I took the course).


The webcam up in the corner of the garage.  Yes, those are $1500 Mirage speakers in the garage.  It's a long story... but they sure sound great!


Webcam, and MP3 jukebox.

 

Costs for Week 130:
 
Date Purchase Store Price
15-Apr-02 106357 Pivot Block - Outer Specialty Automotive 10.50
19-Apr-02 101391(G) Boot, Fuel Pump Support PJ Grady 54.50
  Week 130 Total $65.00
Running Total $17.743.57

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Week 7 Week 14 Week 21 Week 28 Week 35 Week 42 Week 49 -
 Year Two:
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 Year Three:

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 Year Four:

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 Year Five:

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