[DML] Digest Number 338
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[DML] Digest Number 338



Title: [DML] Digest Number 338

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There are 12 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

      1. Strange dash
           From: paulheymeson@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
      2. Re: Door Alignment
           From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
      3. door to fender alignment
           From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
      4. Re: Swapping Center-console
           From: "Shiraz J. Cupala" <shirazc@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
      5. Re: Eagle Premier 3 Litre engine
           From: "Shiraz J. Cupala" <shirazc@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
      6. Binnacle Lens Needed
           From: "Tyler Graves" <graves_14@xxxxxxxxxxx>
      7. Re: Strange dash
           From: <mikeatk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
      8. Found D 4 Sale....question?
           From: bigbenb84@xxxxxxx
      9. Re: Binnacle Lens Needed
           From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
     10. Re: Binnacle Lens Needed
           From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
     11. Re: Found D 4 Sale....question?
           From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
     12. Re: Found D 4 Sale....question?
           From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>


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Message: 1
   Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 23:49:22 -0000
   From: paulheymeson@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Strange dash

Hello everyone,

Last night on the return trip home from my parents a strange thing
happened.
Got in the D started first time,pulled away and the battery light
came on all instruments stopped working except spedo.
On the way to my house everything returned to normal for a few
minutes then the same thing happened again.
Parked the car turned engine off then back on started fine all
instruments dead apart from spedo again.
I know for a fact the battery is charging ok cause I checked my delco
last week.
Could there be a loose wire somewhere?
All dash lights are working ok and all other electrics.

Any help would be great.

Paul Uk.




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Message: 2
   Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 01:13:53 -0000
   From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Door Alignment

Although the door hinges can be adjusted you should under normal
circumstances never EVER do that. Unless the car has been in an
accident, someone already adjusted them incorrectly or a door has
been
removed or changed it is RARE to require adjusting the hinges. With
that said as you  close the door slowly using pressure in the center
of the door it should contact both front and rear pins simultaniosly.
Also the pins should enter the locks in the center. This is a little
hard to see because the door is moving in an arc. Use a flashlight
and
move the door slowly and observe how it meets the pin. If adjusting
it
won't fix it you may have to enlarge the hole in the fiberglass to
give yourself a little more room for adjustment. Work slowly and in
little steps, don't make large changes. Mark everything before you
start so you have someplace to go back to if you completly "screw it
up". You should have either the plastic or metal guides, if you don't
order and install them. When properly adjusted the door should line
up
with the other sheet metal and shouldn't move if you press down on it
after it is closed. Stay away from the torsion bar, a careless
scratch
or nick and it WILL break.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




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Message: 3
   Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 20:31:22 EST
   From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
Subject: door to fender alignment

Hello List,
    I installed a new door about 6 months ago but the seam where it meets the
rear fender was way to wide but the seam where the door met the front fender
is fine.  I couldnt figure that out, maybe this new door is a tad bit
smaller?  I tried moving both hinges back 3 mm to offset the gap but then the
door would not even come close to hitting the latch, then I added a a shim to
the rear hinge,but that still would not work properly.  I was wondering if
the plastic piece that the fender screws into by the door can be moved?  I
see it is screwed into place.  If I just moved it 3-4 mm I would be all set, 
can that be done?  My car was hit on that side so I am wondering if it got
pushed out of place somehow when the fender crunched.
I have had this door off for the 5th time now and have tried everything else,
it opens and shuts perfectly now but the gap is really bothering me.

Thank You
Dave



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Message: 4
   Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 01:36:39 -0000
   From: "Shiraz J. Cupala" <shirazc@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Swapping Center-console

I'm guessing there is no way to get out the bracket without full
removal. I removed mine and it just doesn't seem like you could
squeeze it out. It's way in there.

It's actually not very difficult to remove. I did it just a month
after I had my D because I needed to replace a few parts and i just
wanted to clean it all out really nicely. It didn't take very long at
all. Although, about 4 of the bolts were missing but don't seem to be
necessary. Procedure (as best I remember):

1. remove the little dish in the back (2 screws)
2. remove the screws back there.
3. unscrew the shift plate, remove the shift knob, pull up the
leather on the shaft and remove the plate. be careful not the hurt
the a/c display plate. (2 screws)
4. remove the a/c control nobs and plate (1 screw).
5. remove more screws for the center console, easy to see.
6. remove one screw from just to the right and left of the radio
kinda back under the kneepad
7. pull it off from the back first and remove.

should come off in just 10-15 minutes. surprisingly easy.

Then you have full access to the stereo which will make it much
easier to connect wires and get it in there.

Shiraz
#2860


> What I really need to know is if this can be removed leaving
> the armrest in place; I don't want t completely disassemble
> my interior just for putting in a radio.





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Message: 5
   Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 01:46:26 -0000
   From: "Shiraz J. Cupala" <shirazc@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Eagle Premier 3 Litre engine

Darryl you pulled me out of the woodwork!  It's my new DeLorean and
I'm quite happy with it. I'll have to tell the Feb-Aug 2000 saga some
other time. The new engine is powerful and smooth. A couple nice
things is that it's even firing (smooth) and has hydraulic valve lash
adjusters so it's low maintenance. Plus the temp sensor is in the
engine block! I mention this as an allusion to what happened to the
original engine.  :(  All I can say is that I did not intend to spend
this much dough this fast but now it's done and I can enjoy for a
while.

I've been so busy but I'll take some digital picts soon and get them
up here as soon as I can.

As a little plug for the people who've helped me on this vehicle:
John Lane (mentioned below) and the whole gang at DMC Houston (they
had the car too) were nice to work with and worked really hard on the
job.

Shiraz Cupala
Seattle, WA
#2860


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl@xxxx> wrote:
> At the risk of starting a new thread of endless speculation by
folks who
> really shouldn't, I'd like to report on a sucessful transplant
recently done
> in Seattle of an Eagle Premier 3 litre engine into a DeLorean.  It
was done
> by a professional import shop with extensive experience in
repairing and
> racing the PRV.  The DMC crankcase was used in order to provide the
correct
> motor mounts, along with the oil pan.  The 5 speed trans bolted
right up, as
> did the stock exhaust.  There were no modifications to the
crankshaft.  The
> DMC rocker covers did not fit on the Eagle heads, which necessitated
> extensive adaption in order to use the stock A/C, alternator, etc. 
The
> owner also opted to go with an aftermarket Electromotive ignition
and
> electronic fuel injection setup, although I understand the Eagle
parts could
> probably have been made to work.  The undersized Eagle throttle
body was
> replaced by the larger Volvo B-280 unit.  The car has an estimated
170 HP
> and considerably improved performance.  It was an expensive
conversion, but
> the owner seems quite pleased with the results.  If anyone is
interested in
> additional information they can contact the person who did the work:
>
> John Lane
> Pacific Rim Automotive
> PH: 206-632-1175
>
> I have photos in my camera which I will try to post whenever they
find their
> way out.  Maybe in the meantime someone with a digital camera, or
the car
> owner, will come forward with some.
>
> --
> Darryl Tinnerstet
> Specialty Automotive
> McCleary, WA




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Message: 6
   Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 02:12:20 -0000
   From: "Tyler Graves" <graves_14@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Binnacle Lens Needed

Hi Group,

  I am in need for a new Binnacle Lens. I see that they are listed
as 'CALL' for the price, so I'm expecting some rough roads ahead.
Worst case, do you think it is possible to construct one from a sheet
of plexi-glass? How bad would that look do you think? The one on my D
now has what looks to be splattered super glue. The glue probably
melted the plexi a little before it hardened making it impossible to
fix :(

  As for the replacement procedure, how far into the Binnacle Removal
process do I have to go? Many of you seem to avoid it at all costs.

Tyler
#3472




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Message: 7
   Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 01:21:44 -0700
   From: <mikeatk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Strange dash

Hi Paul,

>From what little I have heard about this type of problem it usually has to
do with bad grounds.  Fortunately mine wasn't this bad, just poor
connections.  If you start by cleaning the grounds at the front of the car
"behind the radiator on top of the frame and near the horns, one on each
side" you hopefully will see an improvement.  Another important one is
located on the right side of the engine compartment.  The cable is fairly
easy to find, just follow the wire as it comes out of engine bay bulkhead
plate, "the black box kinda thing in the right hand corner" I know there are
a lot of wires there but this one goes down to the right side frame so it's
fairly obvious and if you take the air cleaner cover off you can see where
it bolts to the right side frame.

If you ever have the interior back panel off, the other side of all those
wires become accessible, that is another good one to clean up.  Of course
don't forget the battery ground where it bolts to the frame but it's hard to
do without the car being on a lift, at least for me it was.

Hope that's it and helps you out.

Mike Atkinson
vin 16232



> Last night on the return trip home from my parents a strange thing
> happened.
> Got in the D started first time,pulled away and the battery light
> came on all instruments stopped working except spedo.





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Message: 8
   Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 04:08:43 EST
   From: bigbenb84@xxxxxxx
Subject: Found D 4 Sale....question?


  Hey everybody,
      There has been a DeLorean for sale in my area (Pensacola, FL.) since
the end of October. I went at the beginning of November and sat in it and
looked it over but never talked to anybody. It's at a rinky dink used car
lot, and Wednesday I went back up there and actually talked with the owner of
the lot. Turns out some guy nearby (Gulf Breeze) owns it and is selling it on
the guys lot. All the guy said was "It's an '81 model, Volvo
engine"....that's it! And I noticed that it hasn't been moved since I first
saw it around Holloween. I asked him if the A/C works windows etc. or if the
engine ran at all and the guy said he didn't know....just that the guy did
drive it up to the lot. What he DID KNOW about the car was that the battery
was dead and the alternator was shot. But from what I saw.....
    The body (stainless steel) is not dented and looks good even though it
has been sitting for months. I couldn't see any rust on the frame AT ALL,
from what I could see.  The dash is not cracked, it has black interoir
w/5spd, hood lines w/flap 117,000miles. The passenger seat has a little part
of the black missing where I think it has just been worn, but not to bad, the
headliners are great. The plate said July '81 and the VIN# (which ended with
2144). The trunk (or hood?) area looked good with orignal spare tire and the
carpeting. The louvers were not cracked and went up great. The engine
compartment looked untouched (good or bad?) the coolant bottle was plastic.
The doors went up fine, but did sag a little but it was 50 or 60 degrees out?
but did stay up if pushed up. AND ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT THINGS, THE PRICE
$$$$$....he has had $14,800 written in the window but the car lot guy said
that the owner might let it go for $10,000!!! which I believe because the
owner hasn't even been in contact with the dealer and hasn't even came by to
check on it......probably just happy to get it out of the driveway.

     SO MY QUESTION IS.....I wanna get that engine started to see what works
and what don't......Is there an alternator that I can pick up at Autozone,
NAPA, Advanced Auto, or something like that, that I can put in there? I heard
of a Delco, but do you have to get a bracket or something?? and I hope I can
just jump it from another car and the alternator will keep that battery
charged enough to check things out. Jumping a DeLorean is ok right? I
remember seeing a note in the engine bay or cover about it I think? And is
there something I should check for since it is a July '81?.....like a very
important or exspensive update?

Ben
VIN#....maybe 2144 someday...



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Message: 9
   Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 13:59:29 -0000
   From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Binnacle Lens Needed

Well, the whole binncale will need to be removed to replace the
plastic.  I have my whole binnacle apart now so I know the process
pretty good, and it is pretty simple.  First you need to remove the
binnacle, there are some okay instructions for this on the DMCNEWS
tech page.  Then you just need to remove the cluster from the
binnacle trim.  This is very simple and obvious once you see it.  The
lens then simply unbolts from the front.  As for it's availibility, I
have no idea, did you acually call houston about it or not?  Home-
building a new one out of sheet of plastic can be done, but it
probably will not look perfect since there are angles all over the
edges.  If this piece is truely unavailible, I'm sure it wouldn't be
a problem for somebody to make a new one by using an existing one as
a source.  Good Luck.

Jim Reeve
-6960

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Tyler Graves" <graves_14@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi Group,
>
>   I am in need for a new Binnacle Lens. I see that they are listed
> as 'CALL' for the price, so I'm expecting some rough roads ahead.
> Worst case, do you think it is possible to construct one from a
sheet
> of plexi-glass? How bad would that look do you think? The one on my
D
> now has what looks to be splattered super glue. The glue probably
> melted the plexi a little before it hardened making it impossible
to
> fix :(
>
>   As for the replacement procedure, how far into the Binnacle
Removal
> process do I have to go? Many of you seem to avoid it at all costs.
>
> Tyler
> #3472




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Message: 10
   Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 14:56:12 -0000
   From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Binnacle Lens Needed

Tyler,
If you don't find a lens here on the list, try giving DMC Joe a call
or Rob at PJ Grady. I know that they usually have used good condition
parts for sale for alot less than new. Check the links page for all
of their contact information.

Steve
www.dmcman.homestead.com
VIN #3365

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Tyler Graves" <graves_14@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi Group,
>
>   I am in need for a new Binnacle Lens. I see that they are listed
> as 'CALL' for the price, so I'm expecting some rough roads ahead.
> Worst case, do you think it is possible to construct one from a
sheet
> of plexi-glass?



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Message: 11
   Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 16:30:16 -0000
   From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Found D 4 Sale....question?

If you plan on using an aftermarket alternator (like from PEP boys or
any other parts store) you have to modify the pivot mounting plate
that is bolted (3 bolts) to the engine. You can check out my web
site, www.dmcman.homestead.com, for the details on how to modify the
plate and how to wire up the Delco alternator (on the parts and mod
page, follow the alternator link). You could if you wanted to modigy
the alternaor itself but cutting down the mount, but that you may
have a problem down the road if the alternator goes on you and you
want to use it as a core to get another one, or even void the
warranty if it has a lifetime one. Another option is to buy a
modified Delco alternator from PJ Grady that is a drop replacement
(no modifications at all, including the wiring) but it is fairly
expensive. You can Jump start the Delorean and the Jump points are
located in the engine compartment to the right rear of it (rear
meaning under the small rear window). If you have to replace the
battery, spend the extra bucks and get the Optima brand (red top).
You can get that battery at ATV if you have one in your area or you
can get it from Rob at PJ Grady, he carries them.

Steve
www.dmcman.homestead.com

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, bigbenb84@xxxx wrote:
>
>   Hey everybody,
>       There has been a DeLorean for sale in my area (Pensacola,
FL.) since



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Message: 12
   Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 16:47:28 -0000
   From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Found D 4 Sale....question?

Don't worry about the alternater, just get the engine started, yes you
can jump start it. Make sure you have coolant and oil pressure, try
the clutch and see if you can shift into all gears and check the
service and parking brake. Try the electrical system, windows, door
locks, mirrors, lights, and the engine should idle smooth without
hesitation. Inspect all of the glass carefully. Figure on spending in
the area of $5,000 depending on how lucky and how fussy you are about
the car. Figure a clutch, Zillas, interior parts, battery, tires,
shocks, c-v boots, radiator, water pump, hoses, rebuild brakes, door
struts, coolant bottle, change-out of all fluids, clutch hose, fuel
filter, tune-up. Depending on how much you can do yourself will affect
this estimite but for approx $15,000 it sounds like you will have a
nice car.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


-
-- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, bigbenb84@xxxx wrote:
>
>   Hey everybody,
>       There has been a DeLorean for sale in my area (Pensacola, FL.)
since



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