Re: [DML] Lowered springs - just the front?

["Walter" <Whalt@xxxx>]

Everyone on the DML has given you good advice. I will add that you will
probably want to use an impact wrench driven by an air compressor to operate
the spring compressors. For the rear I used one that Pep Boys loaned me.
The directions specifically said to use an impact wrench. Otherwise you
will be there all day twisting your arm off. Don't expect to be successful
on your first try. I had to loosen and reposition a few times before I
found a configuration that worked. The front springs were extremely
difficult to compress. I used an internal compressor from NAPA, and it
didn't fit very well. I ended up compressing the spring to the lower
control arm and removing it with the lower control arm. The problem with
all of these springs is that you have to grab them as close to the ends as
possible. If you only grab from near the middle, then as you compress it,
the rest will simply expand to make up for it. The NAPA compressor's
instructions said not to use an impact wrench, but I used one anyway. I
damaged two of them in the process, but the parts counter guy said to return
them regardless since they should be made better. What happened was the
threads galled and started stripping out. I suppose that if I greased them
up first then they wouldn't have galled so bad. Still, I wouldn't attempt
the job again with another NAPA internal compressor. The threads are not
has hard as they should be.

I highly recommend replacing the shocks while you are in there. I have the
PJ Grady nitrogen ones and love them. There are issues getting the
NAPA/Monroe ones to fit, but this is covered thoroughly in the archives.
Let me know if you have trouble finding it.

I say you are fine just replacing the front springs. There is nothing wrong
with the rear springs unless you want a lowered look. And you can still
lower the rear using the OEM springs. There are two methods that don't
involve cutting. Read about it in the archives.

With my PJ Grady springs, the gap at the top of the wheel is the same as the
sides. The car looks much better with the nose lowered where it was
designed to be. It makes steering easier since the steering rack is now
pushing more straight and doesn't have to reach down as far. It's a
leverage thing.

The factory nuts & bolts on the suspension are fine (except for the trailing
arm bolts.) I wouldn't go replacing anything just because you think
something new would be better. Not all hardened bolts are as hard as they
claim. If you go replacing, find bolts with a pedigree. If you put Monroe
shocks on the front, you will need to use a thinner bolt on the eyelet.
Read about it in the archives.

Let us know how it turns out.
Walt Tampa, FL