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There are 5 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. RE: A/C Mode Switch Diapharm Replacement
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Running lights
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Woes #2
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Online pictiorial procedures for regular maint.
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Oil drain plug
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 22:10:24 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: A/C Mode Switch Diapharm Replacement
Mike, I have some pictures on the web site of the mode switch. It's easy
to
take apart and it's keyed as to go back easy. Just be carefull not to
break
the keeper tabs off.
I lubricate it with vasaline, but others may use something else. I also
have
the new diaphrams to go in it.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/reference-materials.html
-----Original Message-----
From: purdueman1970 [mailto:townfour@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Saturday, June 07, 2003 5:10 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] A/C Mode Switch Diapharm Replacement
I have a 1983 Delorean which has a wooshing sound...maybe a vaccuum
leak in the A/C control area....and I am not sure the cooling and
heating control system is working properly. I want to replace the A/C
mode Switch Diapharm as a first step in correcting the situation.
I would appreciate some guidance on the proper disassembly sequence
fo replacing the diapharm...and any other suggestions. This car was
setting for many years and the A/C does not work...has anyone
successfully undertaken (long term operation with no componet
failures) a refridgerant replacement to R134? If so, what did you do?
Mike
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 08 Jun 2003 04:52:11 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Running lights
IMHO the electrical system is already running near it's operational
limits. Adding high current, constant loads is not a good idea. After
driving your car for over at least 1 hour pull over and take the cover
off the fuseblock-relay area behind the passenger's seat. Put your
hand on the wires and relays and then consider what additional loads
will do.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "vegascop1" <vegascop1@xxxx> wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> Has anyone ever mess with the idea of having running lights on the
> Delorean? I used to own one of the newer Camaros and my girlfriend
> had a Firebird. Both had the DRL ( daylight running lights ) and in
> my opinion it looked pretty sharp!
> There has to be a plug in module of some sort to have the front turn
> signals stay on bright during the day but at the same time dim when
> your turn signal is engaged.
> If anyone has an idea or steer me in the right direction it would be
> great!
> thnx,
> Ski 4649
>
> VegasCop1(at)lvcm.com
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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 08 Jun 2003 05:00:36 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Woes #2
Since you don't own the car yet what you can do is very limited.
#1 could be a bad or loose trailing arm bolt or a loose bearing in the
rear carrier
#2 Could be a bad master cylinder and or a kinked or leaking hose to
the vacuum booster or a bad booster. Figure on rebuilding the brake system
#3 Could be anything from a bad Lambda relay to a kinked pick-up hose
to an overheated engine. See if the frequency valve is buzzing. Remove
the oil breather and inspect the underside for moisture and if it is
melted or gunked up. Check the dipstick for signs of moisture in the
oil. Figure on a complete tune-up and probably rebuilding the cooling
system. Step all the way down on the gas pedal with the motor off and
see if the throttle spool hits the W.O.T. switches.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, peteh269@xxxx wrote:
> Thank you all for your help.
>
> I noted three problems with the car I am looking at:
> 1 - A clank from the pass. side rear when turning.
> 2 - The pedal is hard to push and you push way down but the car
never seems to stop in the time that is should - It just takes too
long to stop.
> 3 - The engine seriously lacked power. Staring in the middle of the
hill was virtaully impossible. I go faster on my 10 speed. Dump the
pedal to the floor and it had no effect really. It will get up to the
desired speed very slowly. On the freeway, I was never able to get
the "passing gear" on the automatic to kick in.
>
> The car is a July 1981 with 37k miles. thanks
> pete
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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 08 Jun 2003 05:07:22 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Online pictiorial procedures for regular maint.
This is a great idea, who is going to do it? It is a lot of work just
fixing the car, even more to document it like you suggest. I think it
would take a collaberative effort of a mechanic doing the work and
someone whose job is just to take the pictures and do the web work. On
some of the simpler tasks it is already being done, just look at
Dave's tech tip on the door solenoids. It was a lot of work for a
relatively simple job. It also depends on the level of detail. Many
procedures assume some basic knowledge. It also will tax the web
server's resources, pictures take up a lot of room and with dial-up
connections it takes a long time to download.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "content22207" <brobertson@xxxx> wrote:
> Remove upper air assembly. Have removed mine so many times I can have
> off car in 10-15 minutes. Of course I don't have air supply line to
> idle speed motor to contend with, which I imagine would slow process
> down. My fuel lines are hard steel, so I just remove banjo bolts in
> fuel distributor and leave them hanging in mid air. Press the air
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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 08 Jun 2003 05:13:22 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Oil drain plug
In most cases replacing the plug itself is sufficient, the threads in
the pan are usually not that bad. Get a magnetic drain plug and a new
copper gasket. If the threads are really bad a thread insert is the
way to go. Just take the plug to the auto store, tell him you need a
metric thread insert for it and he will get you the tools and insert
you need. I will bet you have the wrong (american thread) drain plug
and it won't tighten in the metric threads. Order a drain plug with
gasket and the adapter to put it in.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "vin2105" <phil@xxxx> wrote:
> The threads in the sump for the oil drain plug are shot and i have
> a constant oil dip from the drain plug. The drain plug will not
> tighten up and you can move it in and out with your fingers.
> Anyone know off hand what size heli-coil kit to buy to repair it?
>
> Phil Priestley
> vin# 2105
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