To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: O² Sensor Diagnostics
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Woes
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Woes
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Woes
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Woes
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Woes
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj@xxxxxxxxx>
7. Running lights
From: "vegascop1" <vegascop1@xxxxxxxx>
8. Online pictiorial procedures for regular maint.
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
9. DOA...D.O.A??
From: Tom Watkins <dmctom@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Delorean Owners Assosiation
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Delorean Owners Assosiation
From: rbrogren@xxxxxxx
12. DOA Retrospective
From: lhemb@xxxxxxx
13. Re: Online pictiorial procedures for regular maint.
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
14. Woes #2
From: peteh269@xxxxxxx
15. Oil drain plug
From: "vin2105" <phil@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: Re: Online pictiorial procedures for regular maint.
From: Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxxxxxx>
17. Re: Online pictiorial procedures for regular maint.
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: Woes #2
From: kKoncelik@xxxxxxx
19. Re: Running lights
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. RE: Oil drain plug
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
21. deteriorating injector seals->vacuum leak
From: Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxxxxxx>
22. LMC/DMC Snow Groomer
From: Sonny V <sonnyvr2000@xxxxxxxxx>
23. A/C Mode Switch Diapharm Replacement
From: "purdueman1970" <townfour@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
24. SEMA: Who's coming?
From: "stitsien" <stitsien@xxxxxxxx>
25. RE: Woes #2
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Sat, 07 Jun 2003 03:51:44 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: O² Sensor Diagnostics
Read D:04:14 and 15 in the Workshop Manual. Then get an old analog
dwell meter (the kind with a needle that moves, not a digital) and
hook up to the diagnostic plug as per M:03:01 to pins 2 and 3. Now
compare the readings you get to the pulse ratios on D:04:15 5 A-E. If
your mixture screw is way out of adjustment they may be off. You
should at least see the readings fluctuate and they should be close
when cold or at full enrichment. If the readings never fluctuate then
the sensor may be bad. Before replacing the O2 sensor test out the
entire circuit as per D:04:12. A grounded LG circuit (pin 7) or a bad
switch could cause the Lambda to stay full on. If the car has over
30,000 miles the O2 sensor should be replaced after adjusting the
valves and resetting the Lambda counter.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxx> wrote:
> Dave
>
> When the oxygen sensor is disconnected it tells the lambda computer
> to default to a fuel rich condition by sending a default frequency
> to the frequency valve. The sensor senses oxygen, that's all. It
> does not know rich or lean, etc. So, in order for the sensor to do
> its job correctly, everything else has to be working properly.
> Exhaust leaks can cause too much oxygen, misfires can cause too much
> oxygen, and vacuum leaks can cause too much oxygen and so on.
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Sat, 07 Jun 2003 03:58:40 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Woes
They are both right! A Delorean is VERY hard to work on----IF YOU
DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING!!!!!! The truth is that if you are know
what you are doing it is no more difficult than any other car. Find
someone (an owner of one) that is nearby and ask them to help. Find
out where the car has been serviced. The service center (especially if
it is a Delorean center) can probably give you a lot of service
history. Besides you need to find a place that will service the car if
you buy it anyway. There are some problem areas of a Delorean that
must be fixed but once done the car can be very reliable.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, peteh269@xxxx wrote:
> I called 2 places in town (No. Cal.) to take a look at a DMC that I
might buy. The first guy (volvo specialist) refused - saying they are
way too hard to work on. The 2nd guy (european\Volvo specialist)
refused. He said they are very difficult to put back and gave me an
example of the HEAD from the head gasket fame. Both advised me never
to buy it. What gives???? Now they spooked me into possibly not
buying the car
> Pete
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Sat, 07 Jun 2003 04:27:22 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Woes
Are these mechanics busy already? If so, may see no reason to leave
ease and comfort of known vehicles for an unknown one.
That said, compared to a Volvo, DeLoreans ARE more difficult to work on:
Same basic engine as 260/760 series, but squeezed into smaller
compartment. Is also lower to ground. Mechanic used to big hood area
or standing more upright probably would prefer Swedish car. Remember
also that Volvo used way more 4 cylinder engines at this time
(mechanics may be more familiar with 4 than 6).
Relay compartment scares everyone first time they see it. But once you
understand engineering philosophy of DeLo designers (keep amps behind
seat, not in dash etc), makes perfect sense. Still doesn't alter fact
that compartment is small and hard to maneuver fingers in.
Front end is close to pavement. Lowering front springs brings it even
closer. Mechanic used to working off floor jack & jack stands might
prefer conventional height. My car won't straddle cradle of buddy's
big floor jack.
DeLoreans look way more exotic than they in fact are. Any mechanic
willing to give them more than a cursory glance will recognize just
about everything he or she sees. Cars *DO* have some specific issues
that mechanic may not know however, so you should also elist
assistance of other DeLo owners if possible. Once a vehicle is
purchased, you'll do well to make as many repairs and do as much
maintenance yourself as possible -- shop labor rates are a budget buster.
DML archives have 33,000 messages. Spend a couple of evenings reading
through them. Use search feature (or Google engine on DMC website) to
zero in topics of particular concern. Given entry price, and cost of
parts etc, this is not a purchase you want to make in haste. Of course
marque is worth owning, but not every VIN is...
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, peteh269@xxxx wrote:
> I called 2 places in town (No. Cal.) to take a look at a DMC that I
might buy. The first guy (volvo specialist) refused - saying they are
way too hard to work on. The 2nd guy (european\Volvo specialist)
refused. He said they are very difficult to put back and gave me an
example of the HEAD from the head gasket fame. Both advised me never
to buy it. What gives???? Now they spooked me into possibly not
buying the car
> Pete
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 01:57:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Woes
Hi Pete,
I ran into exactly this same problem with my car
earlier this year.No one wanted to touch it,even Volvo
specialists.One guy even said I should take the car to
the rubbish dump and be done with it!Geez.
All I can suggest is talk to other owners near to you
to find out who they go too with their car,ask the DML
for ideas on any problems,and possibly another owner
can come and look at the car for you.Guaranteed
someone on the list will know the solution to any
problems with whatever car you get,and depending on
how confident/capable you are at working on cars maybe
try some of the work yourself.It gives you a huge
feeling of accomplishment when you have repaired the
problem yourself.Just make sure you get a workshop and
parts manual,you'll need it.
Andrew
VIN 2883
Sydney,Aus.
--- peteh269@xxxxxxx wrote:
> I called 2 places in town (No. Cal.) to take a look
> at a DMC that I might buy. The first guy (volvo
> specialist) refused - saying they are way too hard
> to work on. The 2nd guy (european\Volvo specialist)
> refused. He said they are very difficult to put
> back and gave me an example of the HEAD from the
> head gasket fame. Both advised me never to buy it.
> What gives???? Now they spooked me into possibly
> not buying the car
> Pete
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
http://calendar.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 09:00:04 -0400
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Woes
dear Pete,
Those mechanics who won't work on your car are scared of the unknown. They
are also lazy. They are easy to work on. Just as easy as any other car. I
have many mechanics who will work on them here in New Jersey. Sure I have
had my share of "get out, it's too complicated" but the other mechanics I
have been to said it is fine. I provide the repair manuals just in case but
they never need them. It is a straight forward engine. It is not some new
weird technology. They just figure why learn anything new when they can get
more money per hour doing oil changes and tune ups. Keep searching for
mechanics who work on import cars. You will find one that is very
knowledgeable about engines and willing to make a fair dollar on you.
Joseph Molino
vin 2850
----- Original Message -----
From: <peteh269@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, June 06, 2003 9:58 PM
Subject: [DML] Woes
> I called 2 places in town (No. Cal.) to take a look at a DMC that I might
buy. The first guy (volvo specialist) refused - saying they are way too
hard to work on. The 2nd guy (european\Volvo specialist) refused. He said
they are very difficult to put back and gave me an example of the HEAD from
the head gasket fame. Both advised me never to buy it. What gives???? Now
they spooked me into possibly not buying the car
> Pete
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 10:53:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Woes
What gives you ask??
They are ignorant.
--- peteh269@xxxxxxx wrote:
<SNIP>
> Both advised me never to buy it.
> What gives???? Now they spooked me into possibly
> not buying the car
> Pete
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
http://calendar.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Sat, 07 Jun 2003 10:20:13 -0000
From: "vegascop1" <vegascop1@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Running lights
Hello all,
Has anyone ever mess with the idea of having running lights on the
Delorean? I used to own one of the newer Camaros and my girlfriend
had a Firebird. Both had the DRL ( daylight running lights ) and in
my opinion it looked pretty sharp!
There has to be a plug in module of some sort to have the front turn
signals stay on bright during the day but at the same time dim when
your turn signal is engaged.
If anyone has an idea or steer me in the right direction it would be
great!
thnx,
Ski 4649
VegasCop1(at)lvcm.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 07:29:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Online pictiorial procedures for regular maint.
Hello all,
Today was the first day that I had time to put the
car up on the lift and go through it. I have a whole
lot of replacement items that are ready to go on but
the heat outside today did not allow for any work to
be done.
Heres the deal. All of you know that the cap and
rotor are not the easiest items to get at. I have to
imagine however that there is a defacto procedure that
most people use for doing this. Wouldnt a webpage
with standardized picture format moderated by one
person Sound like a good idea.
I practically built my mustang with a chiltons
book. I dont have that option for the delorean. Im
sure most of you dont bring 30 issues of delorean
magazine to the auto shop to sift through either.
Trying to find anything with a search engine is a
waste of time, you get nothing but commercial ads.
I have seen the page at DMCNEWS.com with the list
of contributed material. I think however that a
visual instructional collection would be the way to
go.
Yes i guess i could have figured ou the cap and rotor
on my own. I imagine it requires removing the
Jetronic
fuel distribution block. I heard those lines are
under pressure and decided to wait till i had some
good answers.
Could have saved alot of time with a cap and rotor
replacement FAQ.
Your thoughts
jordan #11613
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
http://calendar.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Fri, 06 Jun 2003 21:58:24 -0400
From: Tom Watkins <dmctom@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DOA...D.O.A??
Well......I was a member of the DOA back in the late 80's and called a
DOA official with a complaint about preferential treatment and placement
of D1 ads. The next day I got a phone call at my office from someone
threatning "I'll be at your house and beat your head in with a baseball
bat". No joke.........
While Hank is at it why maybe he can explain why DOA President Gil
Moreno resigned as President back in the 80's. I'll tell you what Gil
told me, He quit after decisions he made were overruled behind his back
by a certain DOA board member. This cannot be denied by anyone at DOA.
This came straight to me from Gil. The repeated denials of past rude
treatment by DOA officials is sad to see. Somehow Hank and the DOA
feel that their "volunteer" status somehow absolves them from listening
to people who ARE members. Members who have raised issues with the DOA
are called troublemakers and "how dare you complain, we are all
volunteers here" DOA does not listen to members complaints.....plain
and simple, fact not fiction. There are far to many people who have
tried and are met with the same brick wall of ignorance, rudeness and in
my case anonymous threats over the phone. You can believe me or not, I
really don't care. But just try to deny that even a past President of
the DOA was treated with the same rudeness, disrepect and overbearing
political garbage that many of us have run into.
Tom Watkins
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2003 15:22:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Delorean Owners Assosiation
--- stitsien <stitsien@xxxxxxxx> wrote:
I thought the statement "We exist to
> serve our
> members, not the DeLorean community at large"
- - - - - - - - - - -
I had not planned to enter this fracas, but Hank
Breer's comment, quoted above was too much.
As a successful retail entrepreneur, I am fully as
interested in what "non-customers" say about my store
as what my customers say. It is only by listening to
those non-customers that I can learn what I need to do
to be more successful.
I suggest this also applies to the DOA. The fact that
they are not interested in what non-members have to
say will continue to have a negative impact upon the
organization.
No Trevor, this is not pissing and moaning. It is
common sense from a member of nearly 20 years. I wish
the DOA attitude were different, but, alas, I don't
see that happening.
Dick Ryan
DOA 547
VIN 16867
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
http://calendar.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 01:03:13 EDT
From: rbrogren@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Delorean Owners Assosiation
Regarding the DOA response to David Teitelbaum:
Since Mr. Breer list himself as a Director of DOA one has to assume that his
response is indicative of the corporate culture and philosophy. The first word
that came to my mind was ARROGANT.
His statement says it all!
> We are not an altruistic group. ? We exist to serve our members, not
> the DeLorean community at large. ? We are always happy to receive
> feedback from our members. ? However, we pay no attention to those who
> are not Association members.
----How snobbish! But nice to know.
In his following statement it is abundantly clear that he does not know much
about DML and what makes it so valuable:
> This is my personal opinion:? There is a lot of bad advice given on
> the DML by people who want to be a big fish in a small pond. There are
> incomplete answers to incomplete questions. ? On the whole, I think the
> DML has done more harm than good for the DeLorean Community. It's only
> redeeming feature is that it is a forum for owners to communicate with
> each other. I just wish they had something useful to talk about.
----- Sour grapes!
- Yes, there may occasionally be some bad advice in DML, but it is usually
caught PDQ! And that is nothing compared to advice from some non-D shops!
- Yes, there are incomplete questions! (A dumb statement to start out with,
after all; if the questioner was knowledgeable he/she wouldn't need to ask in
the first place!)
- Yes, there are some incomplete answers, HOWEVER, a thread has been
established and others can, and generally do, chime in! On line or off line and it is
the final result that counts.
- Yes, I have to agree that at times there is some useless chatter here, but
there is an immense amount of experience behind many of the answers and that
certainly swings the scale in the right direction!
When I bought my D it came with an almost complete set of more than 12 years
of the DOA magazine from the original owner. Yes, there was a lot of
information in there for a neophyte owner and it took many hours of page turning before
I had a rudimentary index completed. I liked what I saw and became a DOA
member. I also tried to collect the missing issues in the magazine collection, for
a while.
I found out about the DML fraternity early on and have obtained immensely
much more information here than in all other sources combined.
The unsung heroes are the DML Moderators. Who are the heroes at DOA?
Am I still a DOA member?
No, I did not think it was worth the cost and I didn't need another glitzy
magazine that was far different and lacking items of interest, compared to the
old ones that I have.
No, DOA is certainly not an altruistic group, but DML most assuredly is!
The animosity between the two is really a shame, because a positive synergism
could be of mutual benefit to everybody involved. That will never happen as
long as arrogance rules on one side.
Carpe dium!
Roger
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 15:55:48 EDT
From: lhemb@xxxxxxx
Subject: DOA Retrospective
I have had Harvey (my DeLorean, vin 5830) and been a member of DOA since
1989. The club (especially John Truscott) was very helpful when we were shopping
for a DeLorean; we had joined the club prior to buying the car. Over the years
we attended two DOA national conventions, one in Williamsburg and one in St.
Louis, and had a nice time at both. We also went away knowing more about
DeLoreans than we did before. This also gave us the opportunity to personally meet
all of the national parts and service vendors. I have done business with all of
them and found them to be most cooperative and cordial (even the much
maligned Ed Bernstein). I make it a policy to do business with all of the vendors
beacause I want them to be there in the future when I need them.
Being a fourteen year DOA member, I am also concerned about the direction it
has gone in the last couple of years. My wife and I discussed that fact that
DELOEAN WORLD was looking more and more like a travel magazine long before any
mention of it appeared on this list. I too would like to see more car related
items in the magazine. This dissatisfaction does not, however, cause me to
want to drop my membership to DOA. I want to be a part of everything related to
the DeLorean auomobile. That is why I am an avid reader of and active
participant in this mailing list.
I think that DOA will evolve into the organization that its present and
future membership will dictate. I have several other antique automobiles, and I
have seen a couple of other marque clubs go astray for a time, but return to
their intended purpose. I, for one, am willing to give DOA some time to refocus. I
think that DOA's worst mistake was doing away with the regional chapters.
Regional chapters in any club, give it strength and national presence.
I encourage those of you on the list who are not currently members of DOA to
join or rejoin the Association. DOA is the DeLorean organization that has a
history that goes back to the days when the cars were new. We can not let this
heritage fade away. We, the membership, can make DOA into exactly what we want
it to be.
Sincerely,
Brian McCabe & Harvey (5830)
Santa Rosa Beach, Florida
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Sat, 07 Jun 2003 19:00:52 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Online pictiorial procedures for regular maint.
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxx>
wrote:
<SNIP>
> Yes i guess i could have figured ou the cap and rotor
> on my own. I imagine it requires removing the
> Jetronic
> fuel distribution block. I heard those lines are
> under pressure and decided to wait till i had some
> good answers.
>
> Could have saved alot of time with a cap and rotor
> replacement FAQ.
Nah, you don't need to disconnect a single fuel line to reach the
distributor on the back. Infact, you can pretty much reach it by
sticking your hand back down behind the intake manifold. Otherwise,
if you need more room, just remove the two hex head screws that hold
the throttle body & air/fuel meter assembly. Then unbolt the "U"
pipes from the intake manifold, and disconnect & remove the Idle
Speed Motor. Then just slide the entire upper end backwards to gain
more access.
Swapping out cap, rotor and wires is a snap too, *if* you can do it
all by touch. Feel the position that the rotor is in, and which end
of the cap is up. Then feel which wires connect to which points on
the cap. Write it down, and when you reconnect the wires, just count
the spots over with your fingers. May not be the traditional way that
you're used to doing things, but it is quite effective.
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Sat, 07 Jun 2003 15:17:03 -0400
From: peteh269@xxxxxxx
Subject: Woes #2
Thank you all for your help.
I noted three problems with the car I am looking at:
1 - A clank from the pass. side rear when turning.
2 - The pedal is hard to push and you push way down but the car never seems to stop in the time that is should - It just takes too long to stop.
3 - The engine seriously lacked power. Staring in the middle of the hill was virtaully impossible. I go faster on my 10 speed. Dump the pedal to the floor and it had no effect really. It will get up to the desired speed very slowly. On the freeway, I was never able to get the "passing gear" on the automatic to kick in.
The car is a July 1981 with 37k miles. thanks
pete
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Sat, 07 Jun 2003 19:04:58 -0000
From: "vin2105" <phil@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Oil drain plug
The threads in the sump for the oil drain plug are shot and i have
a constant oil dip from the drain plug. The drain plug will not
tighten up and you can move it in and out with your fingers.
Anyone know off hand what size heli-coil kit to buy to repair it?
Phil Priestley
vin# 2105
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 18:27:55 -0400
From: Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Online pictiorial procedures for regular maint.
On Saturday, June 7, 2003, at 03:00 PM, therealdmcvegas wrote:
> Nah, you don't need to disconnect a single fuel line to reach the
> distributor on the back.
> <SNIP>
I'm sure this statement is correct. I bet you could even do it
blindfolded if you enjoyed the challenge :-).
But, I have to say that once you've removed the air casing/fuel
distributor assembly once or twice, you come to realize that it really
is a fairly trivial operation that doesn't take long at all. IMO it is
far easier to get it out of the way than to struggle with a
barely-possible procedure.
One thing to note is that you don't have to remove all the fuel hoses.
If you just remove the ones that originate on the right side of the
engine (only about 6 or 7, I think), you can gently fold the assembly
to the left out of the way without removing the rest (thanks to Rob
Grady for pointing this out). Removing the idle motor is the hardest
part, and you have to do that anyway to access the spark plug
underneath.
Have you ever spent half an hour lying on your back under a car
struggling with some procedure to save 2 minutes effort to crawl out
and get the right tool? Overcoming that tendency was the most
important single mechanic's skill that I have ever acquired. I think
that servicing the distributor blind is in the same category.
All a matter of taste, I suppose.
--Pete Lucas
VIN #06703
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Sun, 08 Jun 2003 01:57:16 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Online pictiorial procedures for regular maint.
Remove upper air assembly. Have removed mine so many times I can have
off car in 10-15 minutes. Of course I don't have air supply line to
idle speed motor to contend with, which I imagine would slow process
down. My fuel lines are hard steel, so I just remove banjo bolts in
fuel distributor and leave them hanging in mid air. Press the air
sensor plate down and it will discharge any pressure remaining in fuel
system.
BTW: DeLorean tech manual is better than Chilton's or Haynes.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxx>
wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> Today was the first day that I had time to put the
> car up on the lift and go through it. I have a whole
> lot of replacement items that are ready to go on but
> the heat outside today did not allow for any work to
> be done.
>
> Heres the deal. All of you know that the cap and
> rotor are not the easiest items to get at. I have to
> imagine however that there is a defacto procedure that
> most people use for doing this. Wouldnt a webpage
> with standardized picture format moderated by one
> person Sound like a good idea.
>
> I practically built my mustang with a chiltons
> book. I dont have that option for the delorean. Im
> sure most of you dont bring 30 issues of delorean
> magazine to the auto shop to sift through either.
> Trying to find anything with a search engine is a
> waste of time, you get nothing but commercial ads.
>
> I have seen the page at DMCNEWS.com with the list
> of contributed material. I think however that a
> visual instructional collection would be the way to
> go.
>
>
> Yes i guess i could have figured ou the cap and rotor
> on my own. I imagine it requires removing the
> Jetronic
> fuel distribution block. I heard those lines are
> under pressure and decided to wait till i had some
> good answers.
>
> Could have saved alot of time with a cap and rotor
> replacement FAQ.
>
> Your thoughts
>
> jordan #11613
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
> http://calendar.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 19:49:09 EDT
From: kKoncelik@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Woes #2
In a message dated 6/7/2003 1:35:45 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
peteh269@xxxxxxx writes:
> I noted three problems with the car I am looking at:
> 1 - A clank from the pass. side rear when turning.
Check the rear control arm bolts (Toby Tabs) they usually get loose and clank
that is probably it.
> 2 - The pedal is hard to push and you push way down but the car never seems
> to stop in the time that is should - It just takes too long to stop.
Old brake fluid for starters Hydraulic fluid gets mushy with age. If not the
master cylinder may be leaking.
> 3 - The engine seriously lacked power. Staring in the middle of the hill
> was virtaully impossible. I go faster on my 10 speed. Dump the pedal to the
> floor and it had no effect really. It will get up to the desired speed very
> slowly. On the freeway, I was never able to get the "passing gear" on the
> automatic to kick in.
Could be anything. Vacuum leak, bad valve, clogged injector, and the list
goes on
without seeing it diagnosing it is difficult.
How much are they asking for that car
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Sun, 08 Jun 2003 01:45:57 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Running lights
How many exterior lights are you looking to engage? If it's headlights
only, JC Whitney sells a DRL kit that links low beams to ignition at
9V or so. If you're looking for full set, just punch the switch
(exterior light circuit is mixture of relays and bulbs driven directly
from switch, so you'd have to do some significant re-wiring to link
them all to ignition). To make side markers flash day or night, simply
move their grounds to front & rear turn signal supply lines (green/red
and green/white). Easy mod I highly recommend for visibility during
lane changes. Flash together with front & rear turn signals during
day, but alternate flashes at night (slightly annoying, oh well).
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "vegascop1" <vegascop1@xxxx> wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> Has anyone ever mess with the idea of having running lights on the
> Delorean? I used to own one of the newer Camaros and my girlfriend
> had a Firebird. Both had the DRL ( daylight running lights ) and in
> my opinion it looked pretty sharp!
> There has to be a plug in module of some sort to have the front turn
> signals stay on bright during the day but at the same time dim when
> your turn signal is engaged.
> If anyone has an idea or steer me in the right direction it would be
> great!
> thnx,
> Ski 4649
>
> VegasCop1(at)lvcm.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 21:12:18 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Oil drain plug
Phil, The oil drain plug is 16mm x 1.5 thread pitch. I you can't find one
let me know.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
-----Original Message-----
From: vin2105 [mailto:phil@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Saturday, June 07, 2003 12:05 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Oil drain plug
The threads in the sump for the oil drain plug are shot and i have
a constant oil dip from the drain plug. The drain plug will not
tighten up and you can move it in and out with your fingers.
Anyone know off hand what size heli-coil kit to buy to repair it?
Phil Priestley
vin# 2105
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 18:48:24 -0400
From: Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: deteriorating injector seals->vacuum leak
Ever since I replaced my water pump, I have been struggling with an
idle problem that had all the symptoms of a vacuum leak. I'd been
through all the usual possibilities several times and just couldn't
isolate the problem. Then, at last weekend's Pittsburgh tech session (A
big thanks to Dom Diaz for hosting and Dave Stragand for hands-on
help), we tried the last thing I could think of: we replaced the rubber
seals on my fuel injectors. The problem was immediately cured.
Note that my engine was running perfectly before I did the water pump,
but was never right after. I did remove the injectors to get the hoses
out of the way while working on the pump. What I suspect happened was
that the 20-year-old rubber seals, while well seated and not leaking,
were too stiff with age to reseat properly when I put them back. Fresh
seals cured the problem immediately. My guess is that the time has come
to add this inexpensive procedure to the routine maintenance checklist.
BTW: although these seals are standard Bosch parts that can be ordered
at NAPA, they are much cheaper from Grady (and, I assume, the other
dealers as well), just in case you were tempted...
--Pete Lucas
VIN #06703
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 15:58:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sonny V <sonnyvr2000@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: LMC/DMC Snow Groomer
For those who haven't seen one, there's one on Ebay
now with a lot of good pictures.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2418524207
Ebay auction ID: 2418524207
For the record, I have no connection to the
seller...just passing it on...
Sonny
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
http://calendar.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 23
Date: Sun, 08 Jun 2003 00:09:50 -0000
From: "purdueman1970" <townfour@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: A/C Mode Switch Diapharm Replacement
I have a 1983 Delorean which has a wooshing sound...maybe a vaccuum
leak in the A/C control area....and I am not sure the cooling and
heating control system is working properly. I want to replace the A/C
mode Switch Diapharm as a first step in correcting the situation.
I would appreciate some guidance on the proper disassembly sequence
fo replacing the diapharm...and any other suggestions. This car was
setting for many years and the A/C does not work...has anyone
successfully undertaken (long term operation with no componet
failures) a refridgerant replacement to R134? If so, what did you do?
Mike
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 24
Date: Sun, 08 Jun 2003 01:51:42 -0000
From: "stitsien" <stitsien@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: SEMA: Who's coming?
It going to be Nov 4th thru the 7th this year and was curious how
many people from the DML will be here for it. I can probly put at
least one or maybe two people up @ my house this year as long as
they dont care about sleeping on an air mattress :)
Matthew Stits
Vin 0789
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 25
Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 21:15:20 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Woes #2
Pete, On your #3 problem. Look into the warm up regulator. This may be the
problem providing the tune up and timing and what I would call standard
things have already been addressed.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/warm-up-regulators.html
-----Original Message-----
From: peteh269@xxxxxxx [mailto:peteh269@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Saturday, June 07, 2003 12:17 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Woes #2
Thank you all for your help.
I noted three problems with the car I am looking at:
1 - A clank from the pass. side rear when turning.
2 - The pedal is hard to push and you push way down but the car never seems
to stop in the time that is should - It just takes too long to stop.
3 - The engine seriously lacked power. Staring in the middle of the hill
was virtaully impossible. I go faster on my 10 speed. Dump the pedal to
the floor and it had no effect really. It will get up to the desired speed
very slowly. On the freeway, I was never able to get the "passing gear" on
the automatic to kick in.
The car is a July 1981 with 37k miles. thanks
pete
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Back to the Home of PROJECT VIXEN