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There are 16 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Atlanta area
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
2. Re: Clutch Slave/Master Cylinder Cross Refrence
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
3. Window Glue??
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re-attaching the T-panel - Help!
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
5. Rear License Plate Frame
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Re-attaching the T-panel - Help!
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. removing headlights
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
8. Searching some D owners! (Italy)
From: "bmw_delorean" <giastardust@xxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: removing headlights
From: Andrew <aos+yahoo@xxxxxxxx>
10. Re: removing headlights
From: Robert Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Evaporator core / Repair or Replace?
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
12. Spring Social Pictures
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Re-attaching the T-panel - Help!
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
14. Re: Window Glue??
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
15. Re: Re-attaching the T-panel - Help!
From: "dmcnorway" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: Re-attaching the T-panel - Help!
From: "dmcnorway" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 00:55:42 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Atlanta area
Farrar,
Unfortunately you will miss the SEDOC show and bbq which takes place on May
25th. On the other hand you are welcome to visit me and the gang at DeLorean
services. Give me a call at your convenience for directions and details.
DMC Joe
Tech Information, DMC Joe Help Club, & Store
"Summer Parts Sale"
http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore
DeLorean Website Directory www.dmc.tv
----- Original Message -----
From: "Farrar Hudkins" <fhudkins@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2002 1:19 PM
Subject: [DML] Atlanta area
> /lurk mode cancel
>
> Hi, all:
>
> I am planning on being in the Atlanta area around the date of June 1st
> (couple days before -- couple days after). Was wondering if there were
> any De-related events going on at that time, as this seems to be the
> time of year for them. ;) Feel free to respond privately if you'd rather
> not clutter up the list.
>
> Thanks,
> Farrar Hudkins
> '98 Ranger XLT "Laggy"
> /lurk mode engage
>
>
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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 00:59:11 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Clutch Slave/Master Cylinder Cross Refrence
Shain,
Before I answer your question let me take this opportunity to pass on some
information concerning DeLorean crossover parts. Many of the components
supplied by outside companies were limited production items. Most of the
cars that those parts were used in are no longer around. The DeLorean has
out lasted most of the vehicles that many crossover parts were used in and
in many cases the only demand is for the DeLorean.
In other cases the number stamped on a component is misleading. In the case
of the slave cylinder the Bendix number only indicates that Bendix supplied
the core. The completed cylinder was assembled by BAP-Geon and is specified
for the Peugeot 505. When you purchase a crossover you may not receive what
you expect.
Here is an example: A DeLorean owner needs a new AC blower motor. To save a
few dollars they purchase a known crossover at their local auto parts store.
After installing the motor they find out that the motor runs backwards from
the Delorean application. They attempt to return the motor and are told
there
are no refunds on electrical parts. They later find out that they can make
the motor turn in the proper direction by modifying five wire connections
leading to the motor. Is it worth all this trouble or would you be better
off spending a few extra dollars and purchasing the specified part from your
friendly DeLorean parts supplier.
Weather you purchase your parts from us or any of the other DeLorean vendors
you
are assured of getting the correct part with technical assistance available
at your request.
Now to answer your question. You already have the Bendix number now here is
the master cylinder crossover Girling 7466269.
DMC Joe
Tech Information, DMC Joe Help Club, & Store
"Summer Parts Sale"
http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore
DeLorean Website Directory www.dmc.tv
----- Original Message -----
From: "shainbrannan" <shain@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2002 10:21 AM
Subject: [DML] Clutch Slave/Master Cylinder Cross Refrence
> I was wondering if someone could give the cross refrence numbers to
> the clutch slave and master cylinder. The bendix number thats out
> on the web for the slave cylinder is outdated, and no longer
> exists. I also tried the master cylinder for a amc spirit, but they
> no londer exist. Any info would apreciated.
>
> - Shain
> #10140
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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 10:21:59 +0100
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Window Glue??
Hi all
My drivers side window has separated from the metal runner that it sits in.
So when you lower the window the glass stays put and the runner goes down,
the glass then drops to catch it up....not good..
How should these two be attached? it looks like there was some sort of glue
compound in there, if it is what is it??
Cheers
Paul
#6463
www.paul.salsbury.btinternet.co.uk
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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 12:26:43 +0200
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re-attaching the T-panel - Help!
To cut a long story short - I have tried installing the T-panel and fails everytime.
I've tried silicone under the T-panel w/weight on top of that, and have let it cured for 24hrs. It is perfectly in place between the doors, and the doors don't rub the edges etc (I use a textmarker when I take the T-panel off)
Still, after a day or two of driving, the T-panel "bounces upwards" like a bridge. Then I let the car stands still for a few days and did the procedure again. The T-panel still pops up in the middle. I can put my hand on top of the T-panel and press it down about a cm.
It holds down in the front and the rear of the panel. Yet I can't manage to secure it properly in the middle with silicone so that it is aligned with the rooftop of the doors. The T-panel is still "over" the doors a bit, when viewed across the car. Very annoying and irritating.
Somehow the silicone doesn't work as it should, yet it is quality stuff, and as far I know the only way to re-attach a T-panel. What can be the cause? Could the T-panel be bent/distorted, or can I do anything with the old strips of adhesive/foam?
I'm just about this close to buy a completely new T-panel, but I thought I'd hear with the list of what you think can be the cause. The T-panel will simply not hold down.
Please help,
Stian Birkeland
Norway
VIN # 06759
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 08:40:56 -0400
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Rear License Plate Frame
Just figure I would check one more time with the group if anybody has
this part available
before i order one from PJ grady
I lost mine over the winter during storage...
if anybody can help please email me
Thanks!
Kenneth
05541
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 06:27:57 +0000
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re-attaching the T-panel - Help!
The Bricklin world has a major problem keeping the "skins" from separating from the metal. My unit had separation at the doors, had been repaired with silicone, not the right stuff, had come apart big time...silicone stuck to one side but not the other. Biggest problem was
getting the old silicone off (used a narrow rotary wire brush on a drill motor). Consensus adhesive is black urethane used by glass shops to install windshields, take a lesson from the Brick folks.
Les.
Stian Birkeland wrote:
> To cut a long story short - I have tried installing the T-panel and fails everytime.
>
> I've tried silicone under the T-panel w/weight on top of that, and have let it cured for 24hrs. It is perfectly in place between the doors, and the doors don't rub the edges etc (I use a textmarker when I take the T-panel off)
>
> Still, after a day or two of driving, the T-panel "bounces upwards" like a bridge. Then I let the car stands still for a few days and did the procedure again. The T-panel still pops up in the middle. I can put my hand on top of the T-panel and press it down about a cm.
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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 09:35:00 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: removing headlights
Hello All,
i have the black stainless screw set for my headlights and i am attempting to
switch all my old rusty screws out. is it just me, or is it impossible to
remove the low beams with the light assembly in the car? i can't get to the
screws on the far edge and top sides (2 screws closest to the edge of the
car) on either side. are there any good tricks to this? i know the front
fascia will flex some, but i don't want to force it just for this, but i will
be back in there again someday when those lights burn out!!
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 18:35:40 -0000
From: "bmw_delorean" <giastardust@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Searching some D owners! (Italy)
Is there any Italian Delorean fan or owner?And are there some
European owner who is going to come in Italy?
Bye Gianmaria giastardust(AT)hotmail.com
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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 14:33:55 -0500 (CDT)
From: Andrew <aos+yahoo@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: removing headlights
On Sat, 27 Apr 2002 Soma576@xxxxxxx wrote:
> is it just me, or is it impossible to remove the low beams with the
> light assembly in the car? i can't get to the screws on the far edge
> and top sides (2 screws closest to the edge of the car) on either side.
> are there any good tricks to this?
I was able to get the lights out with little trouble when performing my
recent HID upgrade. As you mentioned, the fascia is somewhat flexible,
and I found it would easily flex far enough for me to remove the screws.
Admittedly, my fascia is already somewhat eyebrowed, which probably made
the operation a little easier, but I suspect it would work fine on a
straight fascia as well.
For the screws at the top, get a friend to pull up on the fascia. You can
do it yourself, but it's a lot easier if you have both hands free to deal
with the screws.
For the screws at the side, just pinch the fascia betweeen your thumb and
forefinger and the inner face should flex enough to provide easy access to
the screw.
Then again, who knows? Maybe my fascia is just softer than yours. :)
-andrew
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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 16:23:57 -0500
From: Robert Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: removing headlights
Andy,
You are attempting one of the most annoying problems of the front fascia.
Those outer screws become very difficult to remove as the fascia hardens
from age. Try using a wood paint stick to move it and hold it in place
and not scratch the paint.
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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 16:12:53 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Evaporator core / Repair or Replace?
> I have a leak in my evaporator core and I am pondering if I should buy a
new core or have the old one repaired.
Jim,
I would base my decision on why the evaporator went bad. If it has a crack
where a fitting was stressed, then I say repair it. If it rotted through
from the outside where an accumulation of leaves & compost corroded it, then
it would probably be better to replace it. I spoke with a guy with a red
DeLorean at a local cruise-in show who recently replaced his evaporator. He
said that his rotted through from the inside because a mechanic didn't
properly pull a vacuum on it after opening the system. He said that the
moisture left in the system reacted with the refrigerant making an acid that
ate through. He said replacing it involved a lot of standing on his head to
work under the dash.
Walt
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Message: 12
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 19:12:40 -0400
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Spring Social Pictures
Hi Everyone!
Today was the Delorean MidAtlantic Club's spring social and door adjustment,
and it was GREAT!
As promised, here are pictures of the event!
(Thanks to Dan and Matt O. for volunteering ME to climb up in the tree!)
http://67.82.226.8:81/dmc/scrapbook/scrapbook.htm
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Message: 13
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 19:29:49 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re-attaching the T-panel - Help!
Stian,
What are you using for the foam supporting strips sandwiched between the T
panel and fiberglass roof panel? If they are the factory originals they are
probably rotted and separating. We use rubber weather stripping found at
most home centers.
DMC Joe
Tech Information, DMC Joe Help Club, & Store
"Summer Parts Sale"
http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore
DeLorean Website Directory www.dmc.tv
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>; "DOC UK" <doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>;
<delorean-nl@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, April 27, 2002 6:26 AM
Subject: [DML] Re-attaching the T-panel - Help!
> To cut a long story short - I have tried installing the T-panel and fails
everytime.
>
> I've tried silicone under the T-panel w/weight on top of that, and have
let it cured for 24hrs. It is perfectly in place between the doors, and the
doors don't rub the edges etc (I use a textmarker when I take the T-panel
off)
>
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Message: 14
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 19:31:14 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Window Glue??
Paul,
Complete directions for re-attaching the glass to the carrier can be found
in the workshop manual at P:03:02 "Power Window Upper Channel installation".
DMC Joe
Tech Information, DMC Joe Help Club, & Store
"Summer Parts Sale"
http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore
DeLorean Website Directory www.dmc.tv
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>; <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, April 27, 2002 5:21 AM
Subject: [DML] Window Glue??
> Hi all
>
> My drivers side window has separated from the metal runner that it sits
in.
> So when you lower the window the glass stays put and the runner goes down,
> the glass then drops to catch it up....not good..
>
> How should these two be attached? it looks like there was some sort of
glue
> compound in there, if it is what is it??
>
> Cheers
> Paul
> #6463
>
> www.paul.salsbury.btinternet.co.uk
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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2002 02:41:29 -0000
From: "dmcnorway" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re-attaching the T-panel - Help!
You probably have a very good point there - I haven't replaced the
foam supporting strips! I can't really remember the condition of
them, but since they are 21 years old (!) they probably should have
been replaced a long time ago. Thanks for the tip, I will try once
again.
When you mentioned "rubber weather stripping", what do you think of?
(size, form, shape etc)Is there a particular rubber weather stripping
you recommend?
Best wishes
Stian
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxx> wrote:
> Stian,
>
> What are you using for the foam supporting strips sandwiched
between the T
> panel and fiberglass roof panel? If they are the factory originals
they are
> probably rotted and separating. We use rubber weather stripping
found at
> most home centers.
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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2002 02:44:57 -0000
From: "dmcnorway" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re-attaching the T-panel - Help!
Thanks for the tip Les - but before I try urethane - is this
something that is easy to remove later?
I mean, if I had to loosen the T-panel in the future (for instance
for installing new door/roof seals...would the urethane you speak
about be hard to remove or will it come off easy? Just curious...
Best wishes
Stian
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxx> wrote:
Consensus adhesive is black urethane used by glass
shops to install windshields, take a lesson from the Brick folks.
>
> Les.
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