Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
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To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 20 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: POR-15 for Frame restoration
From: gonedeaf85@xxxxxxx
2. Re: Need engine
From: "De Miller" <demillerkansas@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Engine dies when clutch is engaged
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
4. Re: Polishing the stainless steel
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
5. Re: Finding Lees Keys
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
6. Main Fuel Relay
From: madmap70@xxxxxx
7. Re: Stainless Dent Removal !
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
8. Re: Polishing the stainless steel (Here's a possible solution)
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
9. Rear Bearing Race Removal
From: jus4sho@xxxxxxx
10. Re: POR-15 for Frame restoration
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Main Fuel Relay
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
12. Re: Need engine
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Summer Heat, now hard starting Q
From: "Chris Coplen" <blarness@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Stainless Dent Removal !
From: "Chris Coplen" <blarness@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: Re: Important Shock Absorbers Questions!
From: "Chris Coplen" <blarness@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. AUSTIN, TX DeLorean owners please read
From: "Chris Coplen" <blarness@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: POR-15 for Frame restoration
From: "dmc1982" <dmc1982@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: Summer Heat, now hard starting Q
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. VIN SCEDT26TODD020064
From: "Fronzel Neekburm" <MIst_hunter1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
20. ADMIN: DMCNews Directory Updated
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 00:15:14 EDT
From: gonedeaf85@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: POR-15 for Frame restoration
I'm no genius but from what I understand rust eats away at metal. If the
paint chips and the frame is exposed, then that area will rust. Possibly the
rust won't spread under the paint but it will eat the metal and produces
holes. Those holes will then expose more metal and from there on it's a
domino effect. I haven't had any experience with POR-15 but I have read up
on it. My fiancee and I are going to start playing with our frame so I am
following this thread with great interest. Take care everyone.
Marni
VIN 7104
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 04:28:47 GMT
From: "De Miller" <demillerkansas@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Need engine
Hi everyone:
I am in need of a new engine. Anyone have one for sale? I really am not
looking for one that needs work (that's like the one I'm replacing!). You
can email me privately at demillerkansas@xxxxxxxxxxxx We'd have to figure
out how to get it to Kansas City also. Thanks. De Miller Vin #3427 Lic.
OUTATYM.
________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 17:18:06 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Engine dies when clutch is engaged
Ken,
If the acceleration enrichment circuit is disabled the engine will stall when under load. When the engine is idling can you hear the frequency valve buzzing; if not you have found the source of the problem.
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: Montgomery, Ken
To: 'dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx'
Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2000 10:39 PM
Subject: [DML] Engine dies when clutch is engaged
I'm trying to help solve a problem one of our local club members is
having. He just had a local shop replace the radiator and hoses (all ordered
from one of the reputable major DeLorean suppliers) and everything seemed to
go well. He drove the car for a day with no problems but the next day the
car would die as soon as he would start to engage the clutch. The car starts
and idles well and will rev up fine in neutral. But as soon as the clutch
starts to engage the engine will sputter and die. Now the car is sitting
out, unable to make it up into the garage.
To me this sounds like a vacuum line. But we've gone over every one of them
and have not found a thing. If we can't find an answer soon he'll have to
attend the club BBQ on Sunday using his motorcycle. Does anyone have any
ideas??
Ken
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 00:53:42 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Polishing the stainless steel
If there is any steel wool residue it will turn brown (rust). If you find any sections like that you can simply re-brush the area with the recommended Scotch-Brite Pad. Here is more information on maintaining your stainless steel panels
<a href="" href="http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/3755/stainless.html">http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/3755/stainless.html>
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: BondAtomic@xxxxxxx
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 3:43 AM
Subject: [DML] Polishing the stainless steel
The previous owner of my DeLorean, on the day we paid him, said,"...and you
can polish it with steel wool." He never said he did it himself, but I didn't
really know if you were supposed to do that. Of course, knowing that all of
you smart people would know a lot better, I checked out the many informative
DeLorean sites and in the DeLorean FAQ, I found that you were not supposed to
use steel wool, saying it would appear the the stainless steel was rusting,
and it was actually the tiny bits of steel wool.
What I was wondering is:
Is there a way to see if the car was polished by steel wool? And if it has,
is there a way to reverse it and take the tiny particles of steel out of the
stainless steel? I wouldn't want my dream car looking like it was "rusting."
Thanks a lot,
John Feldman
VIN 4275
Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 02:03:05 EDT
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Finding Lees Keys
In a message dated 8/10/00 12:02:06 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
mpolans@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:
<< I heard about Lee's key blanks on the list and
I've emailed him three times since I bought my DeLorean in June and have yet
to receive a response from him. I need blanks because my car never came
with the originals and they are getting worn as it is. If anyone on the
list is in contact with Lee can you please ask him to drop me an email? >>
Matt-
Someone on the list wrote in awhile back saying that Don at DeLorean Motor
Center in Garden Grove, CA had them, and possibly some other suppliers. Or
you can contact Ken Montgomery on this list... he knows Lee.
-Wayne
"The DeLoreran Nose Bra Guy"
vin 11174
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 02:18:19 EDT
From: madmap70@xxxxxx
Subject: Main Fuel Relay
Any ideas on this one? My car runs ok when warmed up except for a lack of
power ( it is an automatic) that I am pretty certain is the lambda circuit
(it is dead per some professional advice). When cold, it hesitates when you
step on the gas until warmed up. I was checking the relays and pulled the
Main Fuel relay along with the H.R.W. Timer relay, A/C Illumination relay and
the Start Inhibit relay. Put them all back in their proper place and now the
car runs terrible. Started it when cold and the car hovered around 500 rpm
and every time I stepped on the gas it almost stalled out unless I punched
the accelerator (much worse then my usual experience). Any thoughts on how I
screwed this up?? I think I should stick to just putting gas in it and leave
it at that.
Mark
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 19:12:12 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Stainless Dent Removal !
Nick,
It all depends on the extent of the damage. The last stainless repair we had done by DMC Houston cost $250, a bargain when you consider the repair was for a left front fender.
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2000 1:17 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] Stainless Dent Removal !
In a message dated 8/9/00 10:34:09 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
declan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
<< Hi All
I have a question, I know that this is possible but has anyone
actually
had this work done ... ! My roof panel has several creases in it.
Looks like the
previous owner tried to adjust the tension bars and .... well you
know the rest.
But anyway I would like to have it repaired.
A new one is costs approx $450 ...
>>
Hey Declan,
I have a dent on my t-panel also, I had sent James Espey an e-mail about
trying to repair it, and he said that the labor to repair it will be about
the cost of getting a new one. You have to realize that when repairing
something like this, the cost will add up to the price of a new one very
quickly and isn't really cost effective to get it repaired. Thats why I have
to get a new one too. James Espey, if I am wrong with any of this info
please correct me. I don't want to give out misleading info. Thanks.
Later,
Nick
1852
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 19:03:57 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Polishing the stainless steel (Here's a possible solution)
We have never had a problem removing any type of staining, including browning from steel wool, from the DeLorean stainless steel panels. Keep in mind that the 304 grade stainless steel used in the DeLorean is corrosion proof and will not stain. (stainless)
John,
Relax, steel wool will not permanently stain your STAINLESS!
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: Jason Johnston
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2000 1:36 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] Polishing the stainless steel (Here's a possible solution)
This is hard but if the stainless steel has steel wool in it, it is probably
non-removable. I say this because the steel reacts with the Chromium Oxide
protective layer on the stainless steel. Unless the Chromium Oxide layer
were removed, the steel wool won't come out. (I have never tried this but it
might work for this situation. If you could get a fairly strong
electromagnet, attach some sandpaper on to it and buff the panels. If it
works (and the magnet is strong enough) the electromagnet might be able to
pull the steel wool out as the sandpaper cleans the surface. Since I don't
even know if it is even possible, I can't say it will work. BUT someone
might be able to try.)
Thats my 2 steels worth (I mean 2 cents)
Jason Johnston,
DMC Enthusiast and Researcher,
Kemco Industries, Inc.
Fort Worth, Texas
The previous owner of my DeLorean, on the day we paid him, said,"...and you
can polish it with steel wool." He never said he did it himself, but I
didn't really know if you were supposed to do that. Of course, knowing that
all of you smart people would know a lot better, I checked out the many
informative DeLorean sites and in the DeLorean FAQ, I found that you were
not supposed to use steel wool, saying it would appear the the stainless
steel was rusting, and it was actually the tiny bits of steel wool.
What I was wondering is:
Is there a way to see if the car was polished by steel wool? And if it has,
is there a way to reverse it and take the tiny particles of steel out of the
stainless steel? I wouldn't want my dream car looking like it was "rusting."
Thanks a lot,
John Feldman
VIN 4275
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 11:57:22 EDT
From: jus4sho@xxxxxxx
Subject: Rear Bearing Race Removal
In replacing the rear axle bearings, how does one remove the inside, inner
bearing race from the axle shaft? There are no access points on the shaft to
drive the race off. I checked the workshop manual and it doesn't seem to
address rear bearings at all. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Steve
VIN 2650 (Project Delorean)
www.angelfire.com/md2/projectdelorean
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 18:15:55 -0000
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: POR-15 for Frame restoration
You are correct but I didn't mean that I would leave it chipped. If
left it will rust out a hole, but it will be alot easir to repair a
small rust hole then and entire frame that was weakend by rust
because it spread under the coating and you couldn't see it.
It will also be easier to repair that chipped area with a "touch up"
of POR-15. You only have to apply the POR-15 to that area to cover
the chip where as with the Epoxy paint (or any other paint) you would
have to remove the epoxy from the surrounding area to make sure the
rust hasn't spread, prep the metal again with some chemical to
neutrilize the rust then put on a coat of more epoxy paint. Since you
can paint over rust with the POR-15 (and it will stop the rust),
there is not that much preping to do on the metal but to just remove
loose rust. The same goes for Powder coating, if it chips only the
area exposed will rust but it's not that easy to repair powder
coating unless you feel like removing your frame again and having re-
powder coated or you can patch that chip with POR-15.
I have had alot responses on this and I thank everyone who did. I
have read and heard that some people are going to powder their frame
and there are other who have used and are very satisfied with the POR-
15 results. I am going to use the POR-15 for a number of reasons:
1. It's cheaper and easier (planning a wedding realy hurts the pocket
for other things).
2. I can do it myself (I am a true "do-it-yourselfer").
3. Easier to repair IF it does chip, and from what I have heard the
only thing that hurts the POR-15 is Brake fluid.
I'll post my results with pictures on my website when I have
everything done.
Steve
www.dmcman.homestead.com
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, gonedeaf85@xxxx wrote:
> I'm no genius but from what I understand rust eats away at metal.
If the
> paint chips and the frame is exposed, then that area will rust.
Possibly the
> rust won't spread under the paint but it will eat the metal and
produces
> holes. Those holes will then expose more metal and from there on
it's a
> domino effect. I haven't had any experience with POR-15 but I have
read up
> on it. My fiancee and I are going to start playing with our frame
so I am
> following this thread with great interest. Take care everyone.
>
> Marni
> VIN 7104
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 14:50:26 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Main Fuel Relay
Mark,
Based on your description here is what I think has happened. As you indicated you probably have a problem in the fuel enrichment circuit. When you re-inserted the Lambda relay one of the female contact blades for the relay may have been pushed down inside the relay socket. To determine if this has happened pull the relay and look down inside the socket and confirm that all the female contacts are visible. You may also have a problem in the idle speed circuit if the engine is idling less than 750 RPM's.
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: madmap70@xxxxxx
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2000 2:18 AM
Subject: [DML] Main Fuel Relay
Any ideas on this one? My car runs ok when warmed up except for a lack of
power ( it is an automatic) that I am pretty certain is the lambda circuit
(it is dead per some professional advice). When cold, it hesitates when you
step on the gas until warmed up. I was checking the relays and pulled the
Main Fuel relay along with the H.R.W. Timer relay, A/C Illumination relay and
the Start Inhibit relay. Put them all back in their proper place and now the
car runs terrible. Started it when cold and the car hovered around 500 rpm
and every time I stepped on the gas it almost stalled out unless I punched
the accelerator (much worse then my usual experience). Any thoughts on how I
screwed this up?? I think I should stick to just putting gas in it and leave
it at that.
Mark
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 19:55:59 -0000
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Need engine
What's wrong with your old one? Did the crank go bad, timing chain,
head gasket leak, cylinder scored, etc? They are not that hard to
rebuild at all, may be cheaper and better since if you get another
used one you won't know what history it has. I know that DMC Houston
has NOS crated engines, fully assembled with alternator, compressor,
air intake, fuel distributor, etc. for sale for like $4,000+ give
them a call. From what I understand you just have to drop these in
and connect all of the wiring and hoses.
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "De Miller" <demillerkansas@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi everyone:
> I am in need of a new engine. Anyone have one for sale? I really
am not
> looking for one that needs work (that's like the one I'm
replacing!). You
> can email me privately at demillerkansas@xxxx We'd have to figure
> out how to get it to Kansas City also. Thanks. De Miller Vin #3427
Lic.
> OUTATYM.
>
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
__
> Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 19:36:09 -0500
From: "Chris Coplen" <blarness@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Summer Heat, now hard starting Q
I recently threw my D on a trailer and moved from Grand Rapids, MI (cloudy, and mild temps) to Austin, Texas (102 degree big, flaming ball in the sky that just won't quit).
My DeLorean has NEVER had a starting problem ever. The first time I started it in Austin it took five long cranks and then finally sputtered to life and ran poorly for the first minute. This continues now EVERY time I try to start it when its hot out. And, well, it's been triple digit temps all eight days I've been here.
I, at first, accounted it as vapor lock but it does it even when the engine is cold. Then I thought maybe it's the Michigan gas, our votility levels are different than Texas due to our "unpredictable", and colder weather conditions. So, late last night I threw a fresh tank of premium in and gave her a few high speed rips up and down I-35 but I haven't had the chance to drive it today.
What would cause such a DRASTIC change in it's personality just because I moved into a hotter environment, and what can be done about it? Thank you.
Chris
GIGAWAT
#3876
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 19:45:15 -0500
From: "Chris Coplen" <blarness@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Stainless Dent Removal !
But either way, can I stress that people please DO NOT dispose of their
dented panels. "New" panels I understand are not "new" they are just OEMs
that are left over in stock which means that someday, maybe not now, but
someday we will be looking for anything we can get our hands on.
Chris "Crossing my fingers and hoping to never need a new panel" Coplen
3876
----- Original Message -----
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 6:12 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Stainless Dent Removal !
> Nick,
>
> It all depends on the extent of the damage. The last stainless repair we
had done by DMC Houston cost $250, a bargain when you consider the repair
was for a left front fender.
>
> "We're here to help you"
>
> DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
> Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: njp548@xxxxxxx
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
> Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2000 1:17 AM
> Subject: Re: [DML] Stainless Dent Removal !
>
>
> In a message dated 8/9/00 10:34:09 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> declan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
>
> << Hi All
> I have a question, I know that this is possible but has anyone
> actually
> had this work done ... ! My roof panel has several creases in it.
> Looks like the
> previous owner tried to adjust the tension bars and .... well you
> know the rest.
> But anyway I would like to have it repaired.
> A new one is costs approx $450 ...
> >>
>
> Hey Declan,
>
> I have a dent on my t-panel also, I had sent James Espey an e-mail
about
> trying to repair it, and he said that the labor to repair it will be
about
> the cost of getting a new one. You have to realize that when repairing
> something like this, the cost will add up to the price of a new one very
> quickly and isn't really cost effective to get it repaired. Thats why I
have
> to get a new one too. James Espey, if I am wrong with any of this info
> please correct me. I don't want to give out misleading info. Thanks.
>
> Later,
> Nick
> 1852
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 19:52:48 -0500
From: "Chris Coplen" <blarness@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Important Shock Absorbers Questions!
Well, he told me they were now totally out when he gave me his last pair
about two months ago. In fact, the pair he gave me came off of a rolling
chassis he had in the warehouse. That's what I was told so who knows for
sure? One thing I know for sure is that my DeLorean is LOVING it's new
shocks.
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 10:33 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: Important Shock Absorbers Questions!
> I'm sure James will jump in any second, but did anyone call Wynne on
> this? I recall in a visit to the warehouse seeing cartons of shocks
> (admittedly 18-year-old ones) and I bought a pair from him a couple
> of years ago that looked shiny new and performed fine (i.e. just as stiff
as the originals!).
>
> There are two styles of "original" shocks by the way - one that needs
> spacers on the lower end ane one that has a long sleeve and needs no
> spacers.
>
> There are other options, see
> http://www.midstatedmc.com/parts/shocks.html for example.
>
> Dave Swingle
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxx> wrote:
> > Yup, it's true the front shock absorbers are VERY hard to get if
> not
> > impossible. Rob at PJ Grady just had some custom made shocks (front
> > and rear) made up to be the exact match to the original ones,
> > dimension wise. You do not need to perform any modifications at all
>
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 20:00:28 -0500
From: "Chris Coplen" <blarness@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: AUSTIN, TX DeLorean owners please read
I've been a "lurker" member of the DML for just over four years now and last week I moved from Grand Rapids, Michigan to the Austin, TX area. I am looking for a few good people to get in contact with to find out about both the local DeLorean scene and the "car" scene in general.
Can any Austin area members please e-mail me directly at blarness@xxxxxxxxxxxxx or 1.21gigawatts@xxxxxxxx I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you!
Chris
#3876
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 21:12:55 -0400
From: "dmc1982" <dmc1982@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: POR-15 for Frame restoration
Although I have not needed POR-15 on my DeLorean frame, my wife's Nash
metropolitan needed extensive frame TLC. I researched the available products
and chose POR. The paint over rust is just what the name implies, you need
oxidized or etched metal for it to bond. It is amazing stuff that dries to a
ceramic hardness.
The rustier the frame the better it works. There is even a putty available
for larger holes but is not structural enough for strengthening a frame.
If you use this stuff, use rubber gloves because it DOES NOT come off the
skin.
It has been on the Met for two years now and still looks like new. Also
remember it will not stick on the epoxy frame coating on our existing
frames.
Cecil Longwisch
#10663
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 02:28:05 -0000
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Summer Heat, now hard starting Q
In a way I'm kina glad to hear about this; it means I'm not the only
one! I've been having the exact same problems that you have, but
thought that it might be due to other factors on my engine. Warm
temps in spring time: no problem. Summer heat: hard starting. If
you're out some place and you need to leave in a hurry, swapping the
cold start valve & the control pressure regulator plugs will get you
going in a hurry. Now for the interesting part! If you turn to
section D:01:15 of the workshop manual under Electrical Circuit
Function, the last paragraph reads (bad punctuation included):
"The car is wired for a hot start relay. This relay can be installed
if a hot starting problem is experienced in excessively hot regions
of the country. When this relay is used is used, the cold start valve
will inject intermittently durring cranking when engine is hot."
If anyone here knows how/where to install this relay, let us know. It
would definately same me a bit of embarassment in the parking lot!
In the mean time replacing the air filter, and removing the air inlet
valve in the summer months will allow the engine to breath alot
easier. Plus a tune up wouldn't hurt. Pep Boys sells some high
performance wires that are a perfect fit, plus you can get one of the
improved ignition coils there as well. If you also decide to change
the distributor & rotor cap, DO NOT USE A CROSS-OVER PART!!! Borg-
Warner has a distributor cap that fits, but the OEM unit by BOSCH
that DMC Houston sells is a heavier, sturdier unit. The BW is
thinner, and just seems "cheaper" in comparison. Plus for daily
driving, the pick-up line in the fuel tank can give you problems. In
traffic it can collapse causing the engine to lug. If you get below
1/8 tank it can starve the engine totally. And if they aren't working
properly, a new set of ballast resistors as well. All of these items
will help make for easier starting, plus will improve performance!
Lastly, buy a sun shade from DMC Houston, they are worth every dime!
It not only saves your dash, but will keep the intierior reasonably
cool (compared to the outside).
-Robert
vin 6585
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Chris Coplen" <blarness@xxxx> wrote:
> I recently threw my D on a trailer and moved from Grand Rapids, MI
(cloudy, and mild temps) to Austin, Texas (102 degree big, flaming
ball in the sky that just won't quit).
>
> My DeLorean has NEVER had a starting problem ever. The first time
I started it in Austin it took five long cranks and then finally
sputtered to life and ran poorly for the first minute. This
continues now EVERY time I try to start it when its hot out. And,
well, it's been triple digit temps all eight days I've been here.
>
> I, at first, accounted it as vapor lock but it does it even when
the engine is cold. Then I thought maybe it's the Michigan gas, our
votility levels are different than Texas due to our "unpredictable",
and colder weather conditions. So, late last night I threw a fresh
tank of premium in and gave her a few high speed rips up and down I-
35 but I haven't had the chance to drive it today.
>
> What would cause such a DRASTIC change in it's personality just
because I moved into a hotter environment, and what can be done about
it? Thank you.
>
> Chris
> GIGAWAT
> #3876
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 19
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 02:36:21 GMT
From: "Fronzel Neekburm" <MIst_hunter1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: VIN SCEDT26TODD020064
Hi everybody, I check ebay, and yahoo alot, and I found a delorean in Miami,
and the VIN was SCEDT26TODD020064 and I red about the Canidan deloreans that
had VIN 20000, or 200000 (I don't remember which one it was). Is this a
Cadidan car? Here is the url if you want some eye candy!
http://page.auctions.yahoo.com/auction/29733863
John Giedosh a.k.a. Fronzel Neekburm
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Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
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Message: 20
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 22:01:47 -0500
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: ADMIN: DMCNews Directory Updated
Thanks to Ken Montgomery's continued efforts, I have just uploaded the most
current version of the DeLorean Owners directory. This is the version that
available at Cleveland in June and was current at that time. If you have
submitted input since then, it will appear in the NEXT issue in late
August/early September.
If you have been given a password to the directory area it will still work.
If you have any questions on this please see
http://www.dmcnews.com/directory.html for how to get listed and how to get
access.
Dave Swingle
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