Re: [doc] Idle Speed ECU Reair

["jchapelhow" <chapelhow@xxxx>]

Nick.

Thanks for letting me know, I had not expected such a fast turnaround 
but if you do manage it this quickly so much the better!

John.

--- In doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Nick Tomlinson 
<nickandkathryntomlinson@xxxx> wrote:
> 
> To John, just to let you know I have received your ECU and the new 
chips from Farnell (I've bought enough to repair 4 ECU's). I'll try 
and get it repaired tonight or tomorrow and send it to you for 
saturdays post.
> Nick.
> jchapelhow <chapelhow@xxxx> wrote:To Nick
> 
> I have sent you the ECU today, it is guaranteed to arrive on 
Friday. 
> I am happy with your terms, it will be worth it just to prove if 
the 
> ECU is at fault!
> 
> I will wait until the car is 'whole' again and then start on the 
> battery probs.  
> 
> 
> Many thanks
> 
> John Chapelhow
> 
> 
> --- In doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Nick Tomlinson 
> <nickandkathryntomlinson@xxxx> wrote:
> > 
> > To John, no problem. Check everything that I said in an earlier 
> post eg checking cabling voltages resistance at the ECU plugs first 
> as my repair will not result in a working car otherwise.
> > Send the ECU to my works address (someone is always here to 
collect 
> post). I'll send you an e-mail once I have received the parcel:
> > FAO Nick Tomlinson;
> > Aston Dane Plc
> > Park Mill Way
> > Clayton West
> > Huddersfield
> > HD8 9XJ
> > My no. is 07736610787.
> > Cost of components is approx £5 and time to repair is about 2-3 
> hours (inc testing). I'd test your ECU on my car first, if it works 
> then there is something else wrong.
> > Just send me a cheque for cost of parts plus return postage and 
> send me 2 tins of the clubs Stainless steel cleaner (or its money 
> equivalent). Its top stuff.
> > If I am not going on site this week then you may get it back for 
> the end of this week.
> > Best way to test drain from battery is to disconnect the earth 
> cable from the battery and connect an ammeter between the Earth 
cable 
> and the battery post and note the current drain. Disconnect each 
fuse 
> from the fusebox in turn to isolate which circuit causes the drain. 
> If you find the drain then check the components on that circuit. If 
> it turns out to be the charging circuit then disconnect the leads 
> from the alternator as you may have a 'leaky' diode in the 
rectifier 
> that causes drain down. The safety lights on the doors may still be 
> on when the doors are closed. You can disable these by 
disconnecting 
> them from the switches near the doors on the main car body just 
> underneath the dash.
> > Hope this helps.
> > Nick.
> > jchapelhow <chapelhow@xxxx> wrote:Nick
> > 
> > My garage have tried most of the 'quick fixes' for my idle 
> problems, 
> > it looks like the ECU is to blame.
> > 
> > I would like to take you up on your offer of repair services, if 
> you 
> > could e-mail me off-list with your address and a price for the 
> > component/delivery I will send you a cheque for the bits. If you 
> > could also advise on your charge for the repair and timescales 
that 
> > would be great.
> > 
> > As an aside could it be that this circuit is also responsible for 
> the 
> > car's battery drain?
> > 
> > 
> > John Chapelhow
> > 
> > DOC 19 : 'Boeing' #0737
> > 
> > 
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