Hi Folks, I replaced my thermostat the other day and thought I would share my simplified coolant system bleeding technique that worked pretty well for me. Disclaimer: this technique is only suitable for removing air trapped in the waterpump area (like you would get when replacing the thermostat) and is not sufficient for removing trapped air in the rest of the system. In order to get the thermostat replacement job done quickly/easily, I did not empty the coolant from the system and instead just put a tub under the water pump to catch the spillage and made sure the cap was on the header bottle tightly (to reduce the amount of coolant from the bottle that would spill out). When removing the thermostat cap there is obviously some coolant lost and hopefully you catch it in the tub as it spills out. After reassembly, I topped off the header bottle with a suitable mix of water and antifreeze, leaving the cap off the header bottle. Using a length of clear tubing (the "clear" part is important) you can use your mouth to draw out the air through the bleeder nipple on the thermostat housing. It's important that the tubing be clear so that you can tell if you're done drawing the air and are starting to draw coolant -- you don't inadvertently want to consume any antifreeze. You want some height on your end of the tube in order to get the best air evacuation effect (you're not trying to siphon anything, but rather trying to draw a low pressure). Bleeding the setup took about a minute. Obviously, those that have the self-bleeder kit installed don't have to worry about this in the first place, but I don't use the bleeder kits on my cars for philosophical reasons -- I maintain that once bled thoroughly, a properly functioning setup shouldn't need it. The only time I had trouble with the cooling system on either of my cars was when I had the head gasket fail on my one DMC resulting in gasses getting introduced into the cooling system. Hopefully someone will find this little bleeding trick helpful. Knut