Re: [DML] Simplified cooling system bleeding after thermostat replacemen
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Re: [DML] Simplified cooling system bleeding after thermostat replacement
- From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxx>
- Date: Fri, 06 Jun 2003 22:37:12 +0100
Hi Knut
If you don't like the self-bleed kit idea, consider the fact that the
radiator has one built into it already, and the Renault 30 has several
all over the car - the DeLorean is simple by comparison.
(R30 has the same water pump, similar radiator and virtually identical
engine)
I'm currently halfway through battling my way over 200 miles with a
right-hand-drive DeLorean with serious head-gasket problems and split
water hose behind the water pump. I'll try and write up a head-gasket
job article when we do the job!
Martin
#1458
#4426
ksgrimsr wrote:
Hi Folks,
I replaced my thermostat the other day and thought I would share my
simplified coolant system bleeding technique that worked pretty well
for me. Disclaimer: this technique is only suitable for removing air
trapped in the waterpump area (like you would get when replacing the
thermostat) and is not sufficient for removing trapped air in the
rest of the system.
In order to get the thermostat replacement job done quickly/easily,
I did not empty the coolant from the system and instead just put a
tub under the water pump to catch the spillage and made sure the cap
was on the header bottle tightly (to reduce the amount of coolant
from the bottle that would spill out). When removing the thermostat
cap there is obviously some coolant lost and hopefully you catch it
in the tub as it spills out.
After reassembly, I topped off the header bottle with a suitable mix
of water and antifreeze, leaving the cap off the header bottle.
Using a length of clear tubing (the "clear" part is important) you
can use your mouth to draw out the air through the bleeder nipple on
the thermostat housing. It's important that the tubing be clear so
that you can tell if you're done drawing the air and are starting to
draw coolant -- you don't inadvertently want to consume any
antifreeze. You want some height on your end of the tube in order
to get the best air evacuation effect (you're not trying to siphon
anything, but rather trying to draw a low pressure). Bleeding the
setup took about a minute.
Obviously, those that have the self-bleeder kit installed don't have
to worry about this in the first place, but I don't use the bleeder
kits on my cars for philosophical reasons -- I maintain that once
bled thoroughly, a properly functioning setup shouldn't need it. The
only time I had trouble with the cooling system on either of my cars
was when I had the head gasket fail on my one DMC resulting in
gasses getting introduced into the cooling system.
Hopefully someone will find this little bleeding trick helpful.
Knut
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