Continuing: Payne -- what's the news?

["content22207" <brobertson@xxxx>]

Engine vacuum does drop as RPM's increase, so could be a vacuum leak,
but usual telltale sign of vacuum leak is wandering idle. Try spraying
carburetor cleaner at all strategic points around engine (a little
acetone isn't going to hurt anything). You need the kind with a straw
for point pinpoint accuracy. If you've got a vacuum leak, engine will
rev up when carb cleaner hits it. If not, you'll at least have a
cleaner engine. Note that carb cleaner will remove all your silicone.

My idle speed motor fails open. If yours is similar, that shouldn't be
the problem. Have you tried isolating motor from the idle circuit (big
vacuum lines, not electricity) and setting with screws in the air/fuel
assembly? If it weren't for my A/C compressor that would be my
preferred method.

Check your spark timing. If the spark advance diaphragm is receiving
vacuum at idle, your ignition could be WAY advanced. Makes sense that
timing wouldn't return to normal until engine vacuum drops. Car will
run just fine without spark advance, so you could disconnect during
problem diagnosis (don't forget to plug the loose vacuum line).

Did you tinker with the fuel mixture? Could be too rich until car
gulps some serious air. You might try disconnecting power from both
cold start valve and warm up regulator to ensure neither has gone
crazy (would also enrich).

Good luck,

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Payne" <bpayne@xxxx> wrote:
> Thank you for taking an interest in my problem! The reason I
haven't posted any update is because I'm still waiting for a part. I have got the new gaskets for the "W" pipe and am replacing some vacuum lines.
> I just have one question that someone may be able to clear up. 
Right now the car has very little power below approximately 3,000 RPM. As
soon as it gains in engine speed, she feels like her old self again. I thought
I had the vacuum leak fixed, but is this even characteristic of a vacuum leak?
> 
> payne