Re: [DML] Exhaust manifolds removal?

["Mike Aninger" <mike@xxxx>]

An impact wrench!? On rusted bolts!? One word: no... no... no... no, no,
no, no, no!!! The impact wrench can work, only on heavy duty nuts and bolt
such as lug nuts and the like. As it was said in another message, these are
light duty studs and nuts that can be extracted on and emergency basis.
Using an impact wrench will have the most effect on the area CLOSEST TO THE
DRIVING FORCE (for you physics folks out there my vocabulay may not be up to
snuff, but the concept is simple). If the rust has already begun to weaken
the bolt, high impact energy will not get a chance to transfer to the bolt's
(or stud's) treads and can continue to weaken the bolt. A SLOW steady
increase of force will allow the energy to transfer better past the weak
spots better and to the threads, which is where you want it. Sometimes this
can be a slow go, but the heartache saved from no broken studs should give
you enough satisfastion.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2002 1:00 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Exhaust manifolds removal?


> My method of choice for removing stuck bolts is to use an impact wrench.
My
> logic here is that a jarring motion is more apt to shake it loose;
whereas,
> a slow gradually increasing torque applied by hand will let it twist off
and
> break.
>
> I'm not advocating to put the impact wrench on its maximum setting the
first
> try. What I do is gradually increase the setting on the wrench so that
> somewhere along the way the bolt will shake loose.
>
> What is the better anti-seize compound to use on the manifolds? The
silver
> stuff or the copper stuff? I generally use the silver stuff on aluminum
and
> the copper on everything else. Is there any truth to this superstition or
> is the copper better in every application?
>
> Walt Tampa, FL
>
>
>
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