RE: door opener actuators

["Darryl Tinnerstet" <darryl@xxxx>]

Sure, Mike, I'd be glad to tell everyone the correct way to install door openers - just send $199 plus $5 postage and I'll make it very clear.

Seriously, I can't help but wonder why someone who has jerry-rigged maybe one set, then had to go back and re-do it because it didn't work right, would be taking me to task on this when I have successfully sold and installed dozens of kits over the last 10-12 years WITHOUT A SINGLE FAILURE OR COMPLAINT. If you truly think your idea is better then go for it, but please don't tell me my method is inferior, or won't work. As one satisfied customer pointed out it is simple, compact, and reliable. You stated "Your door handles inner and outer are the easiest places to pull from. Unfortunately you can't put your actuator or solenoid there." Really? Says who? That happens to be exactly the correct place to pull from. "I had tapped into the upper armature to open the doors with the my old 15's with the 50's I had to relocate to the bottom part of the armature." What armature? The only armature in the door is inside of the window motor.

My actuators, which are fairly common, are rated at 12-15lbs of pull. When I get my newly acquired #2323 car home I plan to test the required pull weight of the door opening linkage and put this issue to bed. I have never said that heavy solenoids won't work because they will, but they are not necessary or reliable. I'm always open to ideas for improvements in my products, but unless you have a proven, reliable, and inexpensive solution I think I will stick with one that is.

Sorry if I'm a little testier than usual but I just got out of surgery yesterday and am still on some potent drugs. I'll be back to my normal mellow state in a few days....

Darryl Tinnerstet
Specialty Automotive
McCleary, WA
www.delorean-parts.com



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