Re: [DML] Minor electrical problem revised...

["Walter" <Whalt@xxxx>]

> So my windows
> circuit is the one pulling the 13.3mA. Does this mean my solenoids are
going
> bad?

No. I think you are measuring a trickle current through the door lock
module. A slight drain through this circuit is normal whether you are using
the OEM module or the LockZilla module. Try unplugging the module's heavy
red wire (the power lead) to see if this stops the current draw.

Other things to consider:

A bad diode inside your alternator can be draining your battery.

If the total 'trickle' drain from your battery is less than around 60mA,
then don't worry about it.

Your problem may be intermittent. That is why battery cut-off switches are
so popular on these cars. My car even came with one from the previous
owner. My door switches were intermittent. They had no rubber caps. If
you want to try installing caps on yours to see if that helps, just use
small vacuum line caps from the "Help (tm)" section of most autoparts
stores. That is all they are. This didn't work well enough for mine, so I
experimented with using pieces of vacuum hose. Since the end was open, this
allowed it to slide down too far. Then I plugged the end of the hose, but
it was too long and folded by door switch. (My motto, if it jams, force it.
If it breaks, it needed replacing anyway). Which brings another point...
read the archives about Dave Sonto's solid state proximity door switch
replacement. I put those on my car, and now I have no more door switch
problems. They draw far less current than a car stereo memory, and work
perfectly. If the proximity switches weren't an option, I certainly
wouldn't waste my money on a reproduction of the old switch. I would look
at installing mercury tilt switches in the doors, but that would involve
running more wire.

Walt Tampa, FL