Re: [DML] update to my fuel system problems!!!

[Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxx>]

Well, I just completed a water pump replacement on my 
previously-perfectly-running engine, and when I first tried starting 
up the reassembled engine, I had symptoms very similar to yours.

The problem turned out to be the copper tube that goes from the idle 
speed motor to the bottom of the lower air casing. It enters the 
casing through an 0 ring and a copper seal on the left front side of 
the casing. It needs to be removed in order to remove the casing, and 
is tricky to get back in place (see section C:13:01 of the service 
manual). Turns out that when replacing mine, I knocked the ring and 
seal out of place, causing a massive air leak around the tube. I had 
to remove the casing again in order to fix this.

Any chance that this is your problem?

--Pete Lucas
VIN #06703

> SO, today i tried to start it. no go. i had my dad assist me in turning the
> CO screw (which i know is off) as i tried to start the car but we couldn't
> get it right. the best we could do is get the car to start for a few
> seconds, run REALLY rough with me constantly pumping the gas pedal and my dad
> holding down the air meter plate a little bit. when the car 'ran' like this,
> it would back fire very severely. that's the best we could do. but at least
> we know i'm getting gas to the cylinders and i'm getting spark. the car is
> turning over, cranking and firing, but it just won't run. 
>
> with the whole air-meter and backfiring thing - what would this indicate?
> what normally causes this? is there anything i should double-check? is this
> typical of a messed up CO adjustment? i'm wondering if since i got it this
> far, maybe i just need to get my CO set up properly and i should get the car
> towed over to a local import shop for tuning. 
>
> any ideas?
> Andy