[DML] #7 fuse?

[Todd Bankhead <bankhead@xxxx>]

Can anyone tell me why my # 7 fuse suffered heat damage? I suspect the
inertia switch or the RPM relay. Me car wouldn't start last week (a silent
fuel pump) until I started to dinker around with these two items. The
button on the inertia switch would not stay up, so I knew something was
amiss, but there where no signs of heat damage. By the way, it's an old
switch (you know, the recalled ones with the brass connecters). When I
jumped #30 and #87 at the RPM relay, I got the fuel pump to run. I took
apart the relay and scraped a little crap away from between two cold solder
points (it wasn't a lot, but hey, I'm reaching for straws). After putting
everything back together (pluging the switch and relay back in and
replacing the #7 fuse) the car started.
Today, I broke one of the golden rules. Even though the car was working, I
went out to fix it. I wanted to know what it was I did that got the car to
start again. I started at the inertia switch. I moved the button up and
down a few times and low and behold, it stayed up. I pushed it in and
pulled it up and it still worked. So I pushed it in and started the car.
Then I pulled the button up to see if it would shut down the car, and it
did. Now the car won't start again. If I jump the switch and the relay,
the fuel pump works. If I plug in the relay and turn the ignition on, the
relay buzzes wildly. If I try to start the car, the wildly buzzing relay
tells the starter to click and buzz too.
Here's my thought. A bad inertia switch slowly took out the RPM relay
causing stress on the #7 fuse (heating it up but not popping it). Can
anyone confirm or dispute this? Is there any relation to a new electrical
problem in which the door buzzer seems to carry on with a very weak sound,
as if its not getting enough power to work its timer and shut itself off
(ignition switch?).

Thanks to "anyone"

Todd "Project Car 4 Sure" B.