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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 16 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. RE: Heads are on..
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. RE: Out.
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Out.
From: "Michael Paine" <mpaine@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Out.
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
5. Re: shocks
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
6. Re: Standard operating temprature and gauge reading
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
7. Re: Climate control and auto shifter lights on all the time
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
8. Angle Drive Fixed?
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Christopher Lloyd meets our DeLoreans
From: Tom Watkins <dmctom@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. On the road again....
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Re: Stainless Steel Illusion (Second Edition)$$$
From: Louie Golden <louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. more issues with ignition
From: "Henry" <henry@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Delorean for sale in Roanke Virginia
From: "armac.rm" <armac@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Delorean Help in UTAH!!
From: "mwwilber2003" <mwwilber2003@xxxxxxxxx>
15. Tie rod ends (sp)
From: "Jerry" <jlharry@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: more issues with ignition
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2003 19:41:34 -0500
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Heads are on..
Some (most? all?) timing lights can't run very long before they get too hot
and don't "fire", unlike a car. Could it be you sat back there above the hot
exhaust with the light continually firing, for a little too long?
:-)
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Phillips [mailto:jeff.phillips@xxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Saturday, July 26, 2003 2:08 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Heads are on..
Just a quick update about #10544. The heads are back on and the
vehicle actually started up and ran, despite removing the
distributor without marking its position first. :) I'm really
impressed that the thing ran at all, all be it rough, the timing
seemed to be nearly correct waivering around 10'. I think that I
have a spark problem as the timing light frequently missed when it
was supposed to blink. I'll be looking in to that shortly. The
worst that has happened is that I overtightened the alternator belt
and siezed the bearings in that poor little fella. Its a blessing
in disguise as that alternator, I'm told, is off of a forklift and
sadly underpowered anyways. Unfortunately I have movers arriving on
Monday andd Tuseday to pack up the house and ship it all to
Mississippi (joys of the military), so I don't have time to order a
new alt from a vendor before I go. I'll be removing the alternator
belt just to allow me to drive the car onto the trailer for the
great journey south. I really wish that I would have been able to
get this thing running well before I arrived so that I could arrive
in style.
Jeff
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2003 19:59:00 -0500
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Out.
>The wires are in the correct order. I have spark. I've used a timing
>light while cranking the engine and I'm at 13 degrees BTDC.
is cranking speed 775 rpms?
I'm asking 'cause I don't know and it may be a major point.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2003 23:39:16 EDT (-0400)
From: "Michael Paine" <mpaine@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Out.
instead of letting it rot perhaps sell it?
> That's right. I'm "out".
>
> Out of money, out of ideas and tricks, out of patience.
>
> I have replaced the starter, and all of the fuel components. I have
> spark on all 6 plugs, air and fuel. Too much or too little I don't
> know because I have no idea where to set the CO screw and it was
> likely tampered with by the idiot of a mechanic I let work on it in
> December.
>
> The wires are in the correct order. I have spark. I've used a timing
> light while cranking the engine and I'm at 13 degrees BTDC.
>
> The engine is so tight the new starter can barely move it when all of
> the spark plugs are in. Obviously that's not right, but I followed
> the timing chain procedure in the manual and verified it with the
> people at DMCH. I hand cranked it BEFORE I started it. No
> interference. No bent valves.
>
> It shrieks like a beaten wife when it cranks because the oil I put in
> the cylinders to lube it is washed away by gas.
>
> As far as I can tell, when I pull all the plugs and start putting
> them in one by one, and cranking the engine with the addition of each
> plug, only 2 cylinders are making any kind of combustion. There are
> 2 "thumps". As I add more plugs, there are no additional thumps, and
> the compression gets higher and higher as I add plugs and the engine
> slows down.
>
> I do not, nor am I ever likely to have funds to ship this thing to
> Houston or Long Island, and pay for repairs. I can pay for labor or
> parts, not both.
>
> Unless I have some kind of epiphany, 5335 will be another dead weight
> in another guy's driveway, falling apart as time eats away at it.
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://
> groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/
> terms/
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 14:48:58 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Out.
To evaluate a car for potential purchase, I have in the past, when a
fuel system is probably messed up, especially with a car that has
been sitting idle for a few years, disconnected the fuel pump,
removed the air filter housing and used a splash of gas in the air
horn and then used a carb cleaner in a spray can to start it. This
was a test of course just to see if the engine would run. It is a
two person job because some one has to stay at the engine to keep
cleaner sprayed into the air horn to keep it running. That way I
could quickly check the clutch, or trans, etc.
My point is; you do not need a completely functional fuel system to
start the engine to see if it is ready to run. If your fuel system
is faulty you are working with compound issues. Take the fuel system
out of the picture for a while. Also, based on your comments, I
would say you have the cams timed incorrectly. I have not
experienced it on a DeLorean but I have in some other engines when
replacing the timing belts. Your description is classic. Before you
ruin something big time, especially your new starter, I would just
resolve to get back in there and redo the cam timing. After you fix
that try to get the engine to fire without the fuel pump as I
explained above. When you have it fired and know it will run, then
tackle the fuel system.
Harold McElraft - 3354
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> That's right. I'm "out".
>
> Out of money, out of ideas and tricks, out of patience.
>
> I have replaced the starter, and all of the fuel components. I
have
> spark on all 6 plugs, air and fuel. Too much or too little I don't
> know because I have no idea where to set the CO screw and it was
> likely tampered with by the idiot of a mechanic I let work on it
in
> December.
>
> The wires are in the correct order. I have spark. I've used a
timing
> light while cranking the engine and I'm at 13 degrees BTDC.
>
> The engine is so tight the new starter can barely move it when all
of
> the spark plugs are in. Obviously that's not right, but I followed
> the timing chain procedure in the manual and verified it with the
> people at DMCH. I hand cranked it BEFORE I started it. No
> interference. No bent valves.
>
> It shrieks like a beaten wife when it cranks because the oil I put
in
> the cylinders to lube it is washed away by gas.
>
> As far as I can tell, when I pull all the plugs and start putting
> them in one by one, and cranking the engine with the addition of
each
> plug, only 2 cylinders are making any kind of combustion. There
are
> 2 "thumps". As I add more plugs, there are no additional thumps,
and
> the compression gets higher and higher as I add plugs and the
engine
> slows down.
>
> I do not, nor am I ever likely to have funds to ship this thing to
> Houston or Long Island, and pay for repairs. I can pay for labor
or
> parts, not both.
>
> Unless I have some kind of epiphany, 5335 will be another dead
weight
> in another guy's driveway, falling apart as time eats away at it.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2003 23:49:35 -0400
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: shocks
I used the following on the front.
Gabriel VST LT Gas Ryder G63902 off a
Nissan ½ ton pickup 69-81 (requires space washers to fit)
FSMinc@xxxxxxxx wrote:
>
>I just put the Monroe gasmatic shocks (I beleive I'm reading the box correctly that it is model "59016" GM) ?on the front wheels and they seem fine. ? They are about $20 a pair at any auto store. ? My prior shocks were shot and very old if not original. ?My D has only 6k on it. ?Its been driven regularly about 20 miles a month. ?
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 14:04:43 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Standard operating temprature and gauge reading
The thermostat specs for OEM are; start to open 185F - full open
212F.
The thermo fan switch OEM is; Fans on 207F - Fans off 196F.
John Hervey has this and other specs readily available on his web
pages. With pictures.
If the gauge is operating properly and the engine temp is being
maintained at what I call running-against-the-thermostat, the temp
needle would be on or nearly on the first white line from the bottom
line of the temp gauge. Approximately 185F. The gauge sender is not
in the highest temp location. The coolant has some engine head to go
before passing by the thermostat. The sender is located close to the
firewall, passenger side, in the head. It has a one wire connector,
a Green/blue wire. I have over the years experienced failure of
nearly all the temp parts, gauge, sender, thermostat, wire
connections and even the fan switch, although it is not connected to
the gauge, I get use to hearing the fans come on and go off at
particular points of the temp gauge. This is one way to determine if
the gauge is ok. Do the fans come on and go off at the same point on
the gauge they always have? If so, then I would say the thermostat
needs replaced.
A very handy tool to have is a temp gun. I have a Raytek, about $80
I think, that has allowed me to check the surface temps of just
about any component to give me an idea of what is going on. BTW, my
thermostat failure was for a stuck open problem. It seemed to open
all the way but not close completely which would cause a condition
similar to the one you describe.
Harold McElraft - 3354
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxx>
wrote:
> Hello all:
>
> Ive noticed lately that my D may be running a bit
> cool (even in the summer) I say may because im not
> sure of the exact running temperature that the car
> should maintain. If its running to cool and the
> thermostat is opening to early this is not good for
> the engine.
>
> Does anyone have an official delorean operating
> temperature?
>
> Has anyone ever put a thermometer in line to see if
> the gauge is accurate?
>
> Then again It could be the gague. which connects
> to some potentiometer that changes resistance with
> heat.
> Does anyone know the resistance/temperature
> values for this temp sending potentiometer. F not C
>
> Is this the one by the water pump on the left side.
>
>
> thanx
>
> Jordan 11613
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
> http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 14:20:33 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Climate control and auto shifter lights on all the time
There have been numerous postings about this in the past. The
simplest way to get just resisted night lighting with lights on is
to get a SPST relay from radio shack and install it in place of the
relay you mention. You then have no lighting at the AC panel when
the lights are off and resisted lighting with lights on. I never
notice the lights out during the day and I feel better about having
lower heat behind the panel now.
The auto trans shifter light is not in the circuit with the AC
panel. If you want to dim that one you have to figure out an inline
resistor set up. I have been toying with a way to do it that gives
me full illumination during the day and resisted with lights on but
it is just a thought right now.
Harold McElraft - 3354
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxx>
wrote:
> Hello all:
>
> Ive got the little diagram that shows removing the
> top third from the left relay and running a wire from
> A to B.
>
> Some say to use a 10ohm/10 watt resistor between the
> two.
> Some say it doesnt matter.
>
> what does anyone in the group think about this.
>
>
> thanx
>
> Jordan 11613
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
> http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 03:47:36 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Angle Drive Fixed?
Takes us a while to complete things in the Land of Unfinished
Projects, but I think my angle drive is FINALLY back in business.
Actually have been through 4 experimental repairs in the interim.
Obviously the first 3 didn't work.
Have driven 20 miles (I know because my odometer works again. Yay), up
to 60 mph, no problem. Acid test will be trip to SEDOC. Am keeping
tach Xrefs in glove box just in case.
Final repair:
1) 1/8" male square very close to gears. Is square key from hardware
store, soldered to remaining spindle cable with tension spring as
splice (stretched slightly to aid solder). Remaining spindle cable
soldered down into gear TO PREVENT ANY MORE UNWINDING.
2) 1/8" female square drive at gear end of 8-32 drill rod (replaces
spindle cable). Is 5/32" hobby channel soldered to square filed end of
rod.
3) Wheel disc tapped for 8-32 rod, further attached with fan lock lock
washer and two jamb nuts. Already cut square drive pocket off wheel
disc (thought the whole thing was damaged), so this is only way to
attach to rod.
Is easier to insert drill rod from outside. Plus allows self
adjustment side to side (was concerned by Dave Swingle's cracked gear
housing with solid welding rod).
Is not optimal, but is working.
For benefit of others, this is what I learned:
1) Spindle cable is definitely wound for passenger wheel (right hand
drive).
2) If your square crimped end unwinds catastrophically (80 mph), will
chew up visible portion of wheel disc, but deep inside pocket may be
OK. Check with something 1/8" square before assuming the worst.
3) Easiest repair is:
Cut off damaged portion of spindle cable.
Slide long tight fitting tension spring over remaining cable. Do not
solder or weld entire length of spring -- cable will just continue
unwinding where it ends. If spring is free, cable will try to unwind
within it but be held.
Solder or weld 1/8" square rod, key, or whatever to end of cable to
replace damaged portion. Spring can act as splice, and will expand to
accomodate slightly larger 1/8" square. Solder works better on spring
if it is stretched slightly.
When I first got my DeLo heard all the dead angle drive stories.
Thought then the problem was gears themselves. Now know weaknesses are:
1) spindle cable wound wrong way
2) pot metal housing
Gears are actually toughest part of device.
Bill Robertson
#5939
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 08:15:44 -0400
From: Tom Watkins <dmctom@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Christopher Lloyd meets our DeLoreans
Ryan,
Even though this is more of a BTTF connection, thanks for sharing your
great photos with us. How cool is it to have Chris Llpyd sitting on
your car signing it!! how did this meeting happen? More details!!
Thanks
Tom
#005732
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 10:52:20 -0400
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: On the road again....
YEAH!!! I got me Delorean back from P.J. Grady, and my door is all
fixed and looking perfect!
Between the bad weather and the accident, I had only driven my car 4
times this year.....but now i expect to have it out a lot more.
Once again, Rob Grady did a fantastic job on the door, and eveything
else that he fixed up for me. Not only did he meet my expectations, he
exceeded them!
See you all on the road!
Kevin Abato
Vin #16680
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2003 17:44:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: Louie Golden <louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Stainless Steel Illusion (Second Edition)$$$
[MODERATOR'S NOTE: Further followups with suggestions on how DMCH should handle SSI distribution should be directed to DMCH.]
I'm not questioning their "right" to be the sole distributor... obviously it's completely theirs since they've funded this venture. Like I said I'm ecstatic that they decided so! :-) They've done a lot of really great things for our cars in the past few years, such as remaking inferior/extinct parts, finally making some performance parts for our cars, etc. But this one I just have to quibble over... lol.
Let's look at this again. I was in Barnes & Noble the other day and there were countless "coffee table books" about almost every marque you can think of. Porsche, Mercedes, Ferrari, etc. Do you think everyone who buys one of those books is a diehard fan of the respected marque, and reads every mailing list and message board out there on them? Does every person who owns one of these books own the car that the book is about? Not hardly. You're right, one book won't change the future of our cars... but it sure can help. Ken Koncelik's DeLorean Car Show won't save the marque alone either, neither can the DML. It's COLLECTIVELY that these things add up, and really make a difference.
Again... kudos to DMC-H for doing this. Thanks for clarifying some things James. Maybe if the book sells well enough, one day it can be made available through other retail sources. Just think... it would be a great advertisement for their business! :-)
Louie Golden
VIN 10115 Sanford, NC
--- Andrew Prentis <aprentis@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>Why have a problem with DMCH being the sole
>distributor?
>They've done all the work getting permission to
>publish it and organising the logistics of it.Why
>shouldn't they have the right to be the sole
>distributor? Any one can buy products from them.I live
>on the other side of the world and buy most of my
>parts there.Nearly all the parts for the cars
>originate from them so why should this book be any
>different?
>This book has been out of print for 20 years.Do you
>think that the knowledge and interest in the car has
>diminished in those proceeding years?I would argue
>quite the opposite.Thanks to BTTF and this mailing
>list (which I have referrred many would be enthusiats
>too) has not only helped keep " the dream" alive but
>made it stronger.One book won't change
>that.Realistically who is going to want to buy the
>book who isn't already interested in the car?
>I think its great news this book will once again
>become available and I thank DMCH for bringing it
>back.
>
>Andrew
>VIN 2883
>Sydney,Aus.
_____________________________________________________________
See what you missed! Read the report on the 2003 DMC Open House Event at http://www.delorean.com/2003event.asp
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 13:59:28 -0400
From: "Henry" <henry@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: more issues with ignition
Well, my joy only lasted one day. Friday, after replacing the distributor/pick up coil, the car ran very well for a nice hour+ long drive. Saturday, I'm driving to a friends house, and nothing seemed out of the ordinary until I accidentally stalled the engine on a slight hill. I'm not sure if I actually stalled it, or it lost power and stalled on it's own. After that it would not start AT ALL. It cranks, the fuel pump is working, everything seems totally normal - it just won't start. It has a full tank of gas and all the fuses are fine. I've replaced the RPM replay, the fuel accumulator, fuel pump all within the last year or two. At this point, I'd like to see if I actually have spark and the ignition coil is working - what's the best way to test this? What other things should I check?
Also, as I waited for a tow truck, I noticed that the top of the intake manifold took a LONG time to cool down. Even after sitting for more than two hours unstarted, it was still almost too hot to touch. By this time, the cylinder head/valve covers had cooled to the touch, but not the intake. Is this normal?
And as I waited three hours for a flatbed to show up, one guy pulled up and told me my engine seized because "they all do that." Gee thanks.
-Hank
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 18:17:47 -0000
From: "armac.rm" <armac@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Delorean for sale in Roanke Virginia
I have recently found a OCT. 81 Delorean for sale in VA. If anyone
is interested. This car has been sitting for the past eight year out
in the weather and needs some tender loving care. A good project car
with a running PRV turbo engine in it. Email me if you might be
interested. 5 speed gray hood line no gas door,vin 5549, 118453
miles on the clock.
Travis
#5745
[MODERATOR'S NOTE: Travis' e-mail address is armac(at)rocketmail.com]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 21:44:45 -0000
From: "mwwilber2003" <mwwilber2003@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Delorean Help in UTAH!!
Hi all I have a 1981 DMC and I delieve the master cylinder went out
on the the cluch????? I do not know a lot about cars but would like
to know if there is anyone in SLC that would be able to take a look
at mine, to help me out to see what needs to be fixed so that I can
get this on the road to enjoy it. Any help or ideas would be great
Thanks. My e-mail is mwwilber2003(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 19:07:20 -0500
From: "Jerry" <jlharry@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Tie rod ends (sp)
Why do I need to replace my tie rod ends after only a couple hundred miles.
Alignment checks ok, car does not pull either way, tire wear is not evident.
The tie rod ends have come apart again. The seals are broken open and dirt
can get in, this can not be right. The ones on my 72 ford pick up have been
on it for 15 years and are not broken open. Is there something ease that
causes the tire rod ends to break open other than the ends themselves.
Thanks for any help.
Jerry
Vin 4890
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 02:31:18 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: more issues with ignition
PRV is nothing if not HOT (anyone know if this is characteristic of
aluminum engines? Am used to cast iron myself). Have burned my fingers
on manual idle screws badly enough to blister.
My prefered method to check for spark is a timing light (are useful
for so much more than just timing ignition). In a pinch you can pull a
plug wire, extend contact beyond boot with a screwdriver, place NEAR
the block, then watch for a spark to jump the gap.
Next time try running a temporary wire from the jump start post to
positive side of coil. Spade terminals on ballast resistor do not age
well. Heat and the elements, combined with rediculously small gauge
wire, seem to lead to premature failure.
Remember that the fuel pump does not spin until engine is running
(short burp only when car first energized). If your accumulator is
fresh shouldn't be a problem. Could try hot start trick (jump cold
start valve with warm up regulator), or jump RPM relay to force pump on.
Whose fuel tank baffle are you using? Stock DeLo sucks from the top so
hill shouldn't be a problem. John Hervey's sucks from the bottom. Once
before sending unit replaced ran my tank REAL low. Limped OK to gas
station, but going around a long curve started sucking air as
remaining fuel sloshed away from pickup (baffle is open on the bottom.
Will not hold fuel indefinitely). If you're running John Hervey's make
sure pump is low enough in boot and don't push your luck by running on
fumes.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Henry" <henry@xxxx> wrote:
>
> Well, my joy only lasted one day. Friday, after replacing the
distributor/pick up coil, the car ran very well for a nice hour+ long
drive. Saturday, I'm driving to a friends house, and nothing seemed
out of the ordinary until I accidentally stalled the engine on a
slight hill. I'm not sure if I actually stalled it, or it lost power
and stalled on it's own. After that it would not start AT ALL. It
cranks, the fuel pump is working, everything seems totally normal - it
just won't start. It has a full tank of gas and all the fuses are
fine. I've replaced the RPM replay, the fuel accumulator, fuel pump
all within the last year or two. At this point, I'd like to see if I
actually have spark and the ignition coil is working - what's the best
way to test this? What other things should I check?
>
> Also, as I waited for a tow truck, I noticed that the top of the
intake manifold took a LONG time to cool down. Even after sitting for
more than two hours unstarted, it was still almost too hot to touch.
By this time, the cylinder head/valve covers had cooled to the touch,
but not the intake. Is this normal?
>
> And as I waited three hours for a flatbed to show up, one guy pulled
up and told me my engine seized because "they all do that." Gee thanks.
>
> -Hank
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
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