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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Yet another question
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Re: Car just won't stay running?
From: Joe Angell <jangell@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. RE: Delorean Mid Atlantic Club Summer Fun Run Update!
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: #$@! amatuer mechanics and matuer
From: Swoyerzone@xxxxxxx
5. Site URL
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Car just won't stay running?
From: "jchapelhow" <chapelhow@xxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Re: Martin Gutkowski's PRV Guy
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Not For Sale
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Car just won't stay running?
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
10. She stopped running.
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade@xxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Muffler Heat Shield
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: Clunk when accelerating
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Car just won't stay running?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
14. RE: Site URL
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. RE: #$@! amatuer mechanics and matuer
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxx>
16. Vin 10680 has a small problem...
From: "Gary Weaver II" <gw2tulsa@xxxxxxx>
17. Forgot the picture...
From: "Gary Weaver II" <gw2tulsa@xxxxxxx>
18. Which way?
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. New master clutch problem
From: "bluemax86" <massimot@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. fuel filter and seal?
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
21. Re: New master clutch problem
From: "Michael Paine" <mpaine@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
22. Re: DeLorean stalling when in gear: more symptoms
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
23. Re: New master clutch problem
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
24. Re: New master clutch problem
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
25. Re: Which way?
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 01:40:18 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Yet another question
In conjunction with your other post:
Is your fuel distributor simply dumping liquid gas past the piston?
Disconnect from upper air assembly and raise up to see underside. I
suppose you could hold the thing up in the air, but will need to rig
up a bracket or strap to keep piston from shooting out. Jump fuel pump
relay to force on.
Engines like vaporized fuel, not liquid.
I've read that fuel distributor is not a serviceable item BTW.
Re: scrooged fuel mixture screw -- Fastenal (www.fastenal.com) sells
individual metric cap screws as narrow as M3 (my chart shows 3mm allen
head as M4, but it also shows M6 screws in upper air assembly as 5mm
allen head...) Fastenal isn't quite as cheap as McMaster Carr, but
they do sell in quantities less than 100. They are also only source
for 7x1mm stainless.
Given history of fuel system AFTER the filter, I'd definitely pull all
injectors and visually verify spray pattern.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> I've pulled my dying starter and mailed it off. In the meantime, I
> thought I'd check the oil to make sure there was no coolant or
> anything in it since I changed the head gaskets.
>
> Well, out comes 6.8 quarts of oil, and 7 quarts of gasoline. Now I
> understand that when you're cranking, and the car isn't starting,
> it's still pumping gas but isn't that a bit excessive? Especially
> since I had unplugged the cold start valve to avoid flooding it?
>
> I ask this question because I suspect that one reason it wouldn't
> start after putting back together is because it was being flooded out.
>
> I welcome your opinions. Thanks,
>
> Rich
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2003 17:50:45 -0700
From: Joe Angell <jangell@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Car just won't stay running?
> You didn't specify, but I gather when you say that you can back up
> just fine, but stall going forward that you have an automatic
> transmission.
Ah, you're exactly right. I knew I forgot to mention some important
detail like that.
> If you do have an auto, it could be transmission related. I hear tell
> that the governor computer gets very wierd when it breaks.
I was concerned about that; I have been doing the ill-advised jump
starting on the car, as I've had problems where it won't start after
I've driven it someplace, shut it off, and tried to start it again
later.
I'm also having a probable transmission problem that may be related.
The issue is that it will sometimes just rev instead of shifting into
second gear. If I stop and put it into Park and the Drive again, it
works might work fine, it might still not work, or it might rev for a
half second before catching into second gear.
To me, that sounds like the autotrans computer, but I'm just taking a
wild guess here, so I figure it could possibly something else instead...
Thanks again.
-- Joe
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 00:45:48 -0400
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Delorean Mid Atlantic Club Summer Fun Run Update!
As the date draws closer, we now have ~10 cars slated to show up for
this event. Come on out and join us! Just a few more days left to
RSVP!
-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Abato [mailto:delorean@xxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 6:48 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: Delorean Mid Atlantic Club Summer Fun Run Update!
Hi everyone....just a friendly reminder that if you want to attend the
Delorean Mid Atlantic Summer Fun Run, you need to RSVP to me soon! So
far we have 5 cars as a definate.
Details can be found here:
http://www.deloreanmidatlantic.com/events/events.htm#funrun
BTW: There is also a classic car show that day in Chester where we will
be meeting. We can do a "Fly By" on the way to dinner and show them a
REAL parade of cars! ;)
LET ME KNOW ASAP IF YOU ARE COMING SO I CAN GET A HEAD COUNT FOR
DINNER!!!
Thanks
Kevin Abato
Vin# 18860
-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Abato [mailto:delorean@xxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, July 03, 2003 12:07 AM
To: 'dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx'
Subject: Delorean Mid Atlantic Club Summer Fun Run Update!
Hi everyone, I have been busy trying to put together details for the Mid
Atlantic club "Summer Fun Run". Suffice to say, it is not easy planing
an event like this on such a short time frame. Many of the ideas that I
had (and that were presented to me) did not work out, but after much
time spent I was finally able to put and event together.
Details can be found on the club web site events page (link below)
I need to start putting together a head count, so please RSVP to me
ASAP! I will confirm details within a week and provide driving
directions.
http://www.deloreanmidatlantic.com/events/events.htm#funrun
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 02:22:12 EDT
From: Swoyerzone@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: #$@! amatuer mechanics and matuer
I have a similar story, My 1981 DMC-12 was in the shop from April 2002 to
March of this year. The car was having problems starting hot or cold, and the
fuel line to the fuel pump disintegrated. Now out of a lot of money and patience
with the automobile I love, I had no choice but to consider giving it up,
because I am a young owner (19 now) and very little mechanical experience I
thought it maybe the trans since the car could only drive normal in reverse. I found
a garage that said it was a simple job, and he said he had worked on
DeLoreans at a nearby then DeLorean dealership. It needed a tun up new hoses and some
other adjustments. he said the original mechanic was taking me for a ride, but
I never had a problem with the 1st mechanic, everytime there was a problem he
had it fixed, even helped me with the stuff over the phone on his own time,
but this aside I wanted my car just fixed. Well, two weeks went into almost a
year. One day I called and he said that the car is no longer running. He felt
it was the fuel distributor, ok, then will fix it. I ordered all the parts, and
got several ideas from the DML that was describing what most likely the
problems were. Anyway I said ok, he told me that the "Ford" engine in the DeLorean
was needing other attention (What?, Ford?). I gave the benefit of the doubt
thinking he ment to say the PRV. Well a few months past and he tried this and
that and nothing. Also I forgot to say earlier in the email I told him the
cooling fans are slowly dying. But I did tell the mechanic this. Well, I was
driving down the Ave and their was this dirt filled sun damaged DeLorean sitting
outside a different shop, well we are a small town, and seeing another DeLorean
is very rare, but seeing another with my license plate is a one in a million,
since its a regular non-vanity. Well, it turned out they "gave" my DeLorean to
another shop since they didn't have time. (thanks for telling me). I let it go
since these guys are a well respected group, but they don't like the foreign
autos, so why was my DeLorean their. Well, as they said to reinforce my fading
trust, that anyone with a half brain could fix a simple PRV. Well I finally
called them saying I want my car which was now in pieces and no where close to
running back. They charged me 1,091, which included parts (aside from the ones
I bought?) and wreaking...opps I mean fixing my DeLorean from a running to
non running state.
When I paid the bill I asked if the car came near starting, so three people
answered:
1. No not at all fuel distributor problem.
2. Yes, but only when hot.
3. No, only cranks
Well #1 was right, what happened after I paid the bill in cash (like the car
I saved and saved every penny for this) was that when they were trying to find
the cold start/ hot start (yes I know I was told that it didn't run hot, then
I was told it did...hmmm) the car was left unattended for about 15min, and it
overheated and since then has not been able to run, also the driver door
needed a new strut (odd it was bran new) but now the door needs help opening with
a new strut even in, and still droops once in a while)
Well after having it towed back to my house and having the bottom scrapped
and the drive way I called my 1st mechanic. To make a long story shorter (Lol)
the car was running in less then a day (I took a mechanic...by himself, to get
a car running that took a total of three or more to destroy), his bill was
about the same, because he had to go back and fix everything even the tune up, he
told me he shouldn't of had to charge me this much but he had to put the car
back together. Now my car which was fixed of bad idling from the 1st has
returned since the bad shop, also the fuel distributor is just about dead, and
tonight before the car really got bad it started to leak antifreeze all over, now
I never had this problem until it over heated the exact statement to was:
"Well, I was working on the car and you know how it is when you get a phone
call, I walked away from the car for about 15min or so and I came back, (change
in voice) The car shut itself off, and antifreeze, and white smoke was all
over," - I wonder why that is?
Now, I am scratching pennies together once again to get this car fixed!!!
Darryl
Vin#5898
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 10:30:30 +0100
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Site URL
You should all be able to get to my site now with the easier URL of
www.delorean.england
The old one will also still work as the new one is a redirection
Cheers
Paul
#6463
http://www.delorean.england
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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 10:35:48 -0000
From: "jchapelhow" <chapelhow@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Car just won't stay running?
Joe
First of all, my sympathies for your problem.
I have just had a very similar experience which I will briefly
summarise.
My car is 0737. I have recently purchasing it from an owner who had
lovingly cared for it for the past 12years but only covered 400miles.
I started having overheating problems almost straight away. To try
and correct this I have changed all the fuses, had the relay update
kit, fan fail 2x2, self-bleeder, new thermostat, new temp sensors
from John Hervey. Whilst testing these I was not driving the car very
far.
Then like you I suddenly started getting extreme problems even
getting the car to run. The car WOULD idle properly but as soon as I
tried to accelerate the engine would splutter and die. Revving very
hard and flooring the accelerator would only generate ~2500rpm.
Sensors were adjusted/changed and the petrol flow from the tank was
tested. After trying to move the car forward onto a ramp it was
noticed that my rear bumper had started to distort. Upon inspection
the original heat shield was found to have destroyed itself….
The cause of my misery was that the catalytic converter had
disintegrated sending all of its internal stuff (I'm sure there is a
technical name for the insides but I don't know what it is) into the
exhaust silencer effectively blocking it. This was generating much of
the excess heat causing my initial problems, and then when it became
fully blocked prevented normal engine running.
My initial problems were much more severe on hills. I believe that
the bits from the cat were moving in the silencer becoming more
blocked on an incline. My old silnecer rattled when shaken!
I have just got the car back after fitting a new cat-bypass pipe and
new silencer, the engine is now running perfectly, I just need to
find someone to repair/straighten the bumper.
Good Luck!
John Chapelhow
`Boeing' 0737
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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 12:26:05 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Martin Gutkowski's PRV Guy
Yes, there is a chance. He has already said to put him down for it.
Hopefully he'll have Walt's 350hp 24v 3 litre PRV ready in time too....
Martin
content22207 wrote:
>Any chance Darren (your PRV guy) will be coming to Pigeon Forge next
>year? His assistance (eMail) Re: my R30 was invaluable -- could
>perhaps do same for others...
>
>Bill Robertson
>#5939
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 14:20:00 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Not For Sale
I want to thank everyone for all the encouraging words and good
advice. Quite a few people have posted, telling me not to give up.
So I won't.
I have a book that deals with the K-Jetronic fuel system and the
common thread I keep stumbling on is a screwed up fuel distributor.
Specifically, the control plunger. Which mine has the wrong O-rings
on it/in it. The Primary Pressure Regulator in it was also rusted
shut and may not be operating correctly even now. All of that info I
already put in another post (amatuer mechanics).
Now that I've re-read the chapter on fuel, and observed what my car
is doing, it's a wonder it ever ran at all. The injectors
don't "buzz". They "weep" more than they spray, and they don't
respond to the air sensor plate movement. They also continue to weep
long after the fuel pump is off, which is also wrong. The book says
this is all plunger related. My air sensor plate also sticks, it
doesn't "bounce" like it should.
If you combine a defective fuel distrib with dirty injectors, a weak
starter, imperfect timing, -and- a CO mixture screw that's chewed up
and out of adjustment it's not going to start. Plus I probably have a
vacuum leak somewhere. I've been told time and again, the fuel system
is just too precise to "get by" with out of calibration parts.
I didn't want to quit because I was tired of working on it, I wanted
to quit because I couldn't understand what's happening. Now I have
knowledge, and a plan so I'm back in the game.
If anyone knows how I can get a new CO adjustment screw/venturi on
the cheap, email me offline.
Rich
#5335
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 14:20:21 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Car just won't stay running?
The car apparently does this hot or cold? All the time?
Harold McElraft - 3354
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Joe Angell <jangell@xxxx> wrote:
>
> I'm having a very annoying problem with my DeLorean. It goes like
this:
>
> Start the car. Push on the gas pedal. Car goes off. Start the
car.
> Push on the gas pedal again. Car goes off again. If you're
lucky, you
> can get it just fast enough and it will keep running, at least
until
> the next time you stop.
>
> Reverse gear seems fine; I can back up OK (although I didn't back
up
> far). The car stalled 4 times just trying to get it out of my
driveway.
>
> Does anyone have any idea what this could possibly be? Relays?
> Transmission? Anything?
>
> Thanks
>
> -- Joe
> VIN 767
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 12:09:39 -0400
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: She stopped running.
I know this is likely a rehash of some old issues but I didn't know what to
search for in the archive (tried "shut off" and "no start" but the returned
response was overwhelming) so I will appologize up front.
Last week I was driving my car and it was running fine. I was sitting in
traffic on a hot day at a stop light with the clutch in. Engine temp and
voltage meters were well within the normal range 2 minutes earlier. No AC
so the windows were down and it was a bit noisy. There was no sputtering,
discernable noise, or any smell. Put it in gear and nothing happend.
Looked at the dash lights and noticed the engine had apparently shut off.
Tried to restart and it turned over fine but would not start. Got that
flooded smell so I pushed it to the side and let it sit for an hour. Tried
to restart and got the flooded smell again almost immediately. Towed it
home and let it sit. The next morning I was traveling for work so I figured
I would work on it when I got home. Went to the garage first thing in the
morning and immediatly noticed the smell of gas (flooded smell again vs.
just raw fuel). No spots on the floor so I don't think it is a leak.
As a little bit of history, in the past I had what I thought was the hot
start problem. Shut the car off when it was hot and it would easily restart
within a couple minutes. Let it sit for 5 minutes and it would not start.
I bought the push button relay to activate the cold start valve as a
temporary fix but it never seemed to help; however, I did discover that if I
held the accelerator to the floor it would start. In any case I took it to
Rob Grady's last Nov. and had a lot of needed work done. We replaced the
accumulator (used a NOS) and even the fuel distributer. It seemed to work
fine but when I got it home (near Charleston, SC) the symptoms returned.
Since I had a solution that worked I decided to let sleeping dogs lie. I
tend to doubt this is my current problem but thought I would mention it just
in case.
I would appreciate insight where to start on 3 problems. I would be
thankful for a response on the list, directly or a point to threads in the
archive. My biggest concern is to solve the starting problem (I assume it
is electrical like maybe resistor or coil). Next would be the hot start
issue discribed above. Third would be the AC.
As far as the AC goes, I am sure I have a freon leak. What I need to know
is if anyone has some type of reference material to make me smart enough to
talk with an AC shop. I would also appreciate a list of parts I will likely
need to repair/replace (I have seen posts in the past outlining some items
like dryers but did not know if that was a comprehensive list) and whether
these parts are exclusive to the DMC dealers. The reason I ask this is the
only shop local to me that does R-12 is "willing to look at it and see if it
is worth his time" (guess you can be arrogant if you are the only game in
town) and may require use of his vendors.
As a bit of fun there was one interesting note to being stopped in traffic.
Here I am sitting in the middle of a very busy 4 lane road, flashers on,
door up, pushing the car to the side of the road. A guy in a Porshe pulls
up to my right (blocking access to the shoulder and a second lane of
traffic) to ask me for directions. I didn't know where the street he was
looking for was and told him so. He started to drive off and stopped
suddenly. "Are you pushing your car?" I almost said "DUH"! In any case he
pulled over and helped.
Thanks,
Ed Garbade
10541
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 17:08:28 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Muffler Heat Shield
When removing the origional heat shield you should work outside in a
well ventilated area. Try not to crumble or otherwise disturb the
pieces keeping the whole shield in one piece. After removing it double
bag it and either put it away with a warning not to mess with it
because of an asbestoes hazard or dispose of properly. P J Grady sells
a replacement that is asbestoes free. One warning about it though,
until you heat it up a couple of times it has a very distinctive odor!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, James Espey <james@xxxx> wrote:
> "Originals" aren't that great because they are made from asbestos.
This goes
> for the muffler heatshield and the molded catalytic converter
heatshields,
> neither of which are available original any longer.
>
> We're testing a new design of the both heatshields now, and expect
to have
> them ready for retail sale next month.
>
> James
>
> > From: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > Date: 12 Jul 2003 11:56:05 -0000
> > To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1579
> >
> > Or, you
> > can save yourself the trouble and buy one from delorean.com for $50-
> > ish dollars.
> >
> > They aren't that great because they fall apart when they get wet.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 17:10:16 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Clunk when accelerating
To add to your list of possible sources for a clunking noise don't
forget the C/V joints and loose lug nuts.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxx> wrote:
> Gearbox mounts or trailing arm bolts. The latter is the most likely, if
> you haven't attended to them already...
>
> Martin
>
> John Elgersma wrote:
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 17:16:00 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Car just won't stay running?
You have to try to eliminate systems that ARE working to find the ones
that aren't. The transmission isn't a likely cause. Most likely is
electrical with fuel being a close second. Since you have a fuel smell
I would concentrate on the electrical. Determine if ,when it dies, you
have spark or not. Some of the usual suspects include, bad connections
on the ballast resistor, intermittant pick-up coil, dying ignition coil.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Joe Angell <jangell@xxxx> wrote:
>
> I'm having a very annoying problem with my DeLorean. It goes like this:
>
> Start the car. Push on the gas pedal. Car goes off. Start the car.
> Push on the gas pedal again. Car goes off again. If you're lucky, you
> can get it just fast enough and it will keep running, at least until
> the next time you stop.
>
> Reverse gear seems fine; I can back up OK (although I didn't back up
> far). The car stalled 4 times just trying to get it out of my driveway.
>
> Does anyone have any idea what this could possibly be? Relays?
> Transmission? Anything?
>
> Thanks
>
> -- Joe
> VIN 767
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 13:23:29 -0500
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Site URL
I get invalid domain when querying.
Is that valid outside of the uk?
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Salsbury [mailto:paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2003 4:31 AM
To: DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx; doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx;
dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Site URL
You should all be able to get to my site now with the easier URL of
www.delorean.england
The old one will also still work as the new one is a redirection
Cheers
Paul
#6463
http://www.delorean.england
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 17:13:26 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: #$@! amatuer mechanics and matuer
Sounds like you need a lawyer or need to make a trip to small claims court.
-----Original Message-----
From: Swoyerzone@xxxxxxx [mailto:Swoyerzone@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2003 12:22 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] #$@! amatuer mechanics and matuer
I have a similar story, My 1981 DMC-12 was in the shop from April 2002 to
March of this year. The car was having problems starting hot or cold, and
the
fuel line to the fuel pump disintegrated. Now out of a lot of money and
patience
with the automobile I love, I had no choice but to consider giving it up,
because I am a young owner (19 now) and very little mechanical experience I
thought it maybe the trans since the car could only drive normal in reverse.
I found
a garage that said it was a simple job, and he said he had worked on
DeLoreans at a nearby then DeLorean dealership. It needed a tun up new hoses
and some
other adjustments. he said the original mechanic was taking me for a ride,
but
I never had a problem with the 1st mechanic, everytime there was a problem
he
had it fixed, even helped me with the stuff over the phone on his own time,
but this aside I wanted my car just fixed.
[moderator snip]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 01:11:20 -0000
From: "Gary Weaver II" <gw2tulsa@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Vin 10680 has a small problem...
But I guess that depends on what your definition of "small" is...
I took my D out for a roadtrip Friday Night and something
interesting happened... I was driving out of the neighborhood and I
would have SWORN that someone took a shot at my car... Immediately
two things popped to mind....
1. I really need to think about moving if I think people would
actually shoot my car..
2. Something far worse which was confirmed when I tried to open my
Drivers side door... My torsion bar broke... Ends up there was a pin
hole scratch in the bar where it goes through the fiberglass body.
There was no way to tell it was there at all until it popped. I'll
get some images of it up a little later... Oh and my plate is
lifting/kinked as well ;(
So, now I need to find a Drivers side Torsion bar... I'm about
concinved that this thing is in the same league as Drivers Front
Fenders... Can someone please point me in the right direction or
help me out?
Oh, and here is a pic of 10680 finished from when I first joined
four months ago... :)
Thanks for any an all help you can give...
Gary Weaver II
Tulsa, OK
gw2tulsa @ cox.net
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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 01:19:25 -0000
From: "Gary Weaver II" <gw2tulsa@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Forgot the picture...
Sorry about that... :)
Here is my Converted D... Nearly 100% movie accurate...
http://members.cox.net/bk2dftr/web_pictures/bigproject.jpg
-Gary Weaver II
Tulsa, OK
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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 02:25:04 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Which way?
I've taken my venturi apart to investigate.
The good news is, the CO adjustment screw is not chewed up beyond
salvage. A little "deep creep" directly on it, and it was fine.
The fuel distro is all wrong. I had to shake the venturi like a
maraca to get the plunger out. It's supposed to just fall out I
thought. Also, the sensor plate was bound up at one of the ends. As
soon as I tapped the end cap on the venturi, it loosened up and
bounced like it should.
Now, for the question of the day:
Which way is rich and which way is lean on the adjustment screw?
(Clockwise/counterclockwise please) ;)
Thanks guys,
Rich
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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 02:59:56 -0000
From: "bluemax86" <massimot@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: New master clutch problem
Hi all,
This is my first post to the list. I have recently replaced my master
clutch cylinder. Since then the pedal feels rather light until the
very end and there is maybe 1/2" travel between the clutch being
fully depressed and when it starts to engage. Also it is difficult to
get the car out of or into gear. I need to press the pedal a few times
before it will work smoothly. This was not a problem before I replaced
the master cylinder. I have checked the slave cylinder and there
doesn't seem to be any leaks. all dry. I keep checking the fluid
bottle and it doesn't seem to be going down. What gives??
Any help would be much appreciated.
Spike
VIN# 4819
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Message: 20
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 22:06:47 -0500
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: fuel filter and seal?
I've had a rough day-- made a mess changing the oil in the D and the minivan
(to previous poster: they are comfortable, more power than my D, and can
haul 4'x8' sheets of plywood etc., so you will be ok). I should have stopped
there since it wasn't a good day, but I went ahead and started on the fuel
filter.
It's back in, but I will have to pull it out again because the inlet angle
adapter leaks. I thought I tightened it in enough, but no....
So my question is: mega-tighten it down some more? or is there a plumber's
tape (and particular type is fuel resistant?) I should be using on these
threads? There is very little to seal this connection.
-K
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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 00:27:39 EDT (-0400)
From: "Michael Paine" <mpaine@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: New master clutch problem
did you bleed the clutch system?
The steps are:
raise the back end
put a box wrench on the bleeder valve (passanger side of the slave
looking down into the engine)
attach a clear tube long enough to reach a bucket or some such under
the carloosen valve
1 long, full press of clutch
3 short rapid presses (do not release on the 3rd press)
tighten valve
release clutch
<repeat until no air comes out into the hose>
I would like to note that I found it EXTREAMELY helpful to remove both
the engine cover and the air filter box to perform this.
regards,
Michael Paine
vin 6067
> Hi all,
>
> This is my first post to the list. I have recently replaced my master
> clutch cylinder. Since then the pedal feels rather light until the
> very end and there is maybe 1/2" travel between the clutch being
> fully depressed and when it starts to engage. Also it is difficult to
> get the car out of or into gear. I need to press the pedal a few
> times
> before it will work smoothly. This was not a problem before I
> replaced
> the master cylinder. I have checked the slave cylinder and there
> doesn't seem to be any leaks. all dry. I keep checking the fluid
> bottle and it doesn't seem to be going down. What gives??
>
> Any help would be much appreciated.
>
> Spike
> VIN# 4819
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://
> groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/
> terms/
>
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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 05:04:34 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DeLorean stalling when in gear: more symptoms
Joe - This is kind of a "shot in the dark", but there is a large
wire bundle that passes very close to the left front tire. This
bundle has many important wires in it, including the fuel pump power
feed. We have had a couple of incidents in the PNDC where the wire
bundle came loose from it's clamps, and rubbed against the tire.
After some period of time, the tire wore through the insulation of
several of the individual wires, and caused some periodic shorts
when the tires rotated or were turned by the steering wheel. With
the car up on a lift, the tire will drop away from the wheel well,
creating extra clearance with the wire bundle. I don't know if this
is your problem, but it's worth a quick look.
Toby Peterson VIN 2248
Winged1
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Joe Angell <jangell@xxxx> wrote:
>
> More on my wacky DeLorean troubles:
> My mechanic tells me that if the DeLorean is raised on the lift,
>it does not stall in any gear. The moment the car is back on it's
>wheels and is not being supported by the lift at all, it stalls
>when in gear.
> How very strange.
>
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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 05:07:46 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: New master clutch problem
Sounds like you need to bleed more air out of the slave cylinder. You
should also replace the plastic line between the master and slave
cylinder with the braided steel one if it has not already been
changed. You should try to use Castrol GTLMA DOT 4 brake fluid. It is
the most compatible with the type of rubber used in the seals.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "bluemax86" <massimot@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> This is my first post to the list. I have recently replaced my master
> clutch cylinder. Since then the pedal feels rather light until the
> very end and there is maybe 1/2" travel between the clutch being
> fully depressed and when it starts to engage. Also it is difficult to
> get the car out of or into gear. I need to press the pedal a few times
> before it will work smoothly. This was not a problem before I replaced
> the master cylinder. I have checked the slave cylinder and there
> doesn't seem to be any leaks. all dry. I keep checking the fluid
> bottle and it doesn't seem to be going down. What gives??
>
> Any help would be much appreciated.
>
> Spike
> VIN# 4819
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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 05:12:43 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: New master clutch problem
Air.
Air trapped in a hydraulic system will render it hopelessly "squishy".
You need to bleed master cylinder to slave.
On most cars this is easiest procedure in the world because all you do
is open bleed screw and let gravity perform the rest (keep the
reservoir full!). Unfortunately DeLo clutch system is horizontal (like
brake lines), not vertical.
Three methods:
1) Have assistant pump pedal and hold, then you crack bleeder screw,
over & over until fluid runs clear and bubble-less.
2) Completely submerge bleeder hose in brake fluid, oriented so
bubbles will rise away from exposed end, and pump pedal yourself
(bleeder screw cracked whole time. You can prevent minute amounts of
air seeping past afterwards by leaving hose attached as screw
tightened. Whips around a bit...).
3) Use a vacuum pump suitable for liquids to pull fluid from slave end.
Second is my method of choice. Actually prefer over pistol vacuum pump
(probably because I've been doing it longer). Inaccessibility of DeLo
slave cylinder might make a convert of me...
Whichever method you use, keep reservior full. If it runs dry you'll
suck air into system and have to start all over again.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "bluemax86" <massimot@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> This is my first post to the list. I have recently replaced my master
> clutch cylinder. Since then the pedal feels rather light until the
> very end and there is maybe 1/2" travel between the clutch being
> fully depressed and when it starts to engage.
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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 05:38:29 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Which way?
Clockwise to richen, counter to lean. What you're adjusting is height
of piston within fuel distributor for corresponding sensor plate
movement. Screw is on opposite side of pivot, so tightening it raises
piston higher. See pic on page D:01:05.
Go easy adjusting the thing. No BS: 1/4 turn makes big difference. See
Message #32067 for Volvo procedure.
This is bit of moot point until fuel system back to specs. Am afraid
you're looking at replacement CPR and distributor minimum. Lamda may
be toast too (won't stop engine from running, just running well. Why
don't you be first to engineer out of car -- I never had to begin with
on R30. Passed PA emissions without. You could start a trend...).
Injectors COULD just be drooling from bad CPR and distributor.
You haven't mentioned tank pickup. What is condition of baffle (check
those screens!) and connecting hose? Pump boot is probably rotten too.
I managed about 1,000 miles after purchase before my pickup system
disintegrated. Had I known then what I know now, new pickup would have
been one of my FIRST purchases. Am very pleased with John Hervey's.
Because gas is sucked from bottom of tank it has no vapor issues (and
no connecting hose issues).
After replacing all this you'd be a mad man not to add $15 fuel filter...
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> I've taken my venturi apart to investigate.
>
> The good news is, the CO adjustment screw is not chewed up beyond
> salvage. A little "deep creep" directly on it, and it was fine.
>
> The fuel distro is all wrong. I had to shake the venturi like a
> maraca to get the plunger out. It's supposed to just fall out I
> thought. Also, the sensor plate was bound up at one of the ends. As
> soon as I tapped the end cap on the venturi, it loosened up and
> bounced like it should.
>
> Now, for the question of the day:
>
> Which way is rich and which way is lean on the adjustment screw?
> (Clockwise/counterclockwise please) ;)
>
> Thanks guys,
>
> Rich
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________________________________________________________________________
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