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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Control pressure regulator gap
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof@xxxxxxxxxxx>
2. radiator fan stopped working
From: Mark Fearer <mfearer@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. frame rot
From: Mark Fearer <mfearer@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Air Conditioning does not work
From: "phoenix00622002" <phoenix@xxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: current drain
From: "Adam" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Grand National powered Delorean test runs
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Digest Number 1520 (Unhappy about the DOA and DW)
From: "frenkieboy" <j.m.s.c.lommen@xxxxxxxxx>
8. Hood Struts
From: doctorDHD@xxxxxxx
9. Re: Air Conditioning does not work
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: frame rot
From: "fivetwofive" <CBL302@xxxxxxx>
11. Re: Air Conditioning does not work
From: "Michael Paine" <mpaine@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: radiator fan stopped working
From: "Michael Paine" <mpaine@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Digest Number 1520 (Unhappy about the DOA and DW)
From: "fivetwofive" <CBL302@xxxxxxx>
14. RE: Re: Control pressure regulator rebuild?
From: "Arnie Brandon" <arnie@xxxxxxxx>
15. Re: radiator fan stopped working
From: "aaron_t_graham" <aaron_t_graham@xxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: Re: Digest Number 1520 (Unhappy about the DOA and DW)
From: "trevor Johson" <dmcboy1der@xxxxxxxxxx>
17. RE: Air Conditioning does not work
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Saw a Delorean in Columbia SC today!!!
From: "wbowie2003" <wbowie@xxxxxxxxx>
19. More questions than answers (Engine Failure)
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. RE: Re: Control pressure regulator rebuild?
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
21. RE: Re: Digest Number 1520 (Unhappy about the DOA and DW)
From: "Arnie Brandon" <arnie@xxxxxxxx>
22. Re: radiator fan stopped working
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
23. Re: Catastrophic Engine Failure Revisited
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
24. RE: Re: Digest Number 1520 (Unhappy about the DOA and DW)
From: "Arnie Brandon" <arnie@xxxxxxxx>
25. Re: Hood Struts
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 20:04:22 -0400
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Control pressure regulator gap
Sorry but it's already back in the vehicle and working just great. The gap I
ended up using was 15 thousandths by trial and error.This equates into a
three to five minute warm-up time.(The wider the gap, the more time it takes
to close from indirect heat transfer) Inside the unit are two bi-metallic
devices. The first is a contact point set that is designed to limit the
electric heating element encapsulating the midpoint of the second Bimetal
strip once the heat of the engine has saturated the case of the regulator
itself. The second and more robust strip is designed to relieve the spring
tension on the primary diaphragm to allow a richer gas flow at cold start-up
via electro-mechanical means. The current is provided on the same circuit
that drives the fuel pump. (this must prevent inadvertent operation if the
key is on but the engine is not running) The vacuum line provides an
additional method of enrichment via the presence of a vacuum from the intake
manifold. The spring that flexes the primary fuel diaphragm is seated on a
secondary spring loaded rubber diaphragm. This moves up or down depending on
the vacuum available and can increase or decrease the flow of fuel
independent of the primary electrical method. (sort of like a trap door
under the main spring) An ewternal one way delay valve is also used to
provide a ten second delay in order to establish an actual condition
necessary for enrichment and not just a "vacuum spike". I am not an expert
on these units. The delay valve appears to be a standard "carb to
distributor" delay valve used on many foriegn cars in the timing advance
vacuum circuit. DISCLAIMER: The above is just what I could glean from casual
observation having never really researched one of these suckers before.
Either way, there is nothing much to them and they appear to be pretty
straight forward in design. They are definitely well designed and I would
imagine that most failures could be solved with a simple cleaning. Once you
tear one open, everything is pretty obvious. My opinion is: If yours is
"DEFINITELY" malfunctioning and you have some mechanical ability, don't
hesitate to crack that baby open and give it a good once over because
there's nothing delicate or complicated in there!
Rustproof (Rusty)
Vin #1559
----- Original Message -----
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita@xxxxxx>
To: <Rustproof@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, May 31, 2003 4:21 AM
Subject: AW: [DML] Control pressure regulator gap
>
> Hey Rusty,
>
> can you email me a picture of the inside of the CPR ?
>
> I read that it looks different to regular CPR's, there should be
> two bimetal switches or something similar.
>
> The oil question always starts such a big discussion.
> That's why I told you. Get a good 10W40 and that's it.
>
> Regards,
>
> Elvis
>
>
>
>
> Does anyone know the correct gap for the bi-metal contact points inside
the
> CPR? Also, I would like to thank everyone that responded to my question
> regarding the correct oil weight. As usual, it was very enlightening!
> Thanks,
> Rustproof
> Vin # 1559
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 20:59:57 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mark Fearer <mfearer@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: radiator fan stopped working
Hello. My radiator fan recently stopped working. It used to kick on in
traffic or when parked when the engine reached a certain temperature. Now,
because the fan is no longer working, the car is okay as long as it is
moving, but overheats when sitting still. I suppose that I could hard wire
the fan to a toggle switch. Before I do that, though, what should I look
for? Fuse? Relay? Thermostat? How does the fan system work? I hope it is
not that sensor.
Mark Fearer
vin 3072
Manchester, New Hampshire
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 21:01:48 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mark Fearer <mfearer@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: frame rot
Hello. I understand that the frame is a dual wishbone. What common areas
should one inspect when checking their frame for rust?
Mark Fearer
vin 3072
Manchester, New Hampshire
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Sun, 01 Jun 2003 01:35:51 -0000
From: "phoenix00622002" <phoenix@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Air Conditioning does not work
Hello my name is Barbara. I'm new to the list. If I make any
mistakes to the list I'm sorry. I just purchased a 1983 Delorean and
the air conditioning doesn't work. What should I do as it uses the R-
12. Do I have to get a new one installed? I live in NJ where would I
go to have this done?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Sun, 01 Jun 2003 07:31:12 -0000
From: "Adam" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: current drain
I can vouch for the door light switches, I went through a dead
battery myself because of this. Another thing that drains some
current is the door lock module. The module itself drains about
~13mA, but if the contacts inside or the door lock solenoids are
stuck then it will drain much more until something fails or burns up.
Adam Price
16683
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "dsstriker" <dsstriker@xxxx> wrote:
> hi, any advice on current drain problems with dmcs? I am looking at
a
> delorean to possibly purchase but it has this issue, the owner has
a
> quick disconnect on the battery b/c of a drain problem. What should
i
> look for? thanks..
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Sun, 01 Jun 2003 15:20:50 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Grand National powered Delorean test runs
Man, 88mph sure comes up faster in my Canadian spec. 83 Delorean
with the 84 Buick Grand National 3.8L Turbo engine in it.
After some break-in runs, fluid changes and the addition of a new
turbo boost gauge, Dave Swingle and I took this beast out for a
few test runs on the back roads near his place. Although we have
a few vaccuum gremlins to sort out, the beast ran out very well.
For all who are interested, I'm posting a short, 3MB Quick-Time
movie to the Files folder in the DML vault. Keep in mind this is
at low resolution using the movie feature on a digital camera with
a built in mic, but it does convey the speed and sound of the car.
Even though the test runs have been limited to a few miles at a
time over a small circuit, the car promises to be a blast to drive.
Look for a full, detailed updated soon at: www.DeloreanMotorCars.com
Later,
Rich W.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Sun, 01 Jun 2003 15:21:12 -0000
From: "frenkieboy" <j.m.s.c.lommen@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1520 (Unhappy about the DOA and DW)
Hello Ron (or Cheryl),
I must admit that I haven't read the DML for some time due to the
fact that I was busy with other things. It's a shame that I have
missed that discussion. I would like to know if any boardmembers of
the DOA have mixed in that discussion too, and what their opinion
was. I have the impression that they have changed their policy
regarding the articles of their magazine about the time Mr.
Bernstein became president.
But let met state one thing clear, only for those that think that I
am against the DOA, or Mr. Bernstein as owner of DeLorean One . I AM
NOT !!! I have been a happy member for about the first 7 or 8 years,
it is just that I think that for me (and probably a lot of other
members) DW is just not interesting any more. I always liked the
idea of having one club that operates worldwide, and also keeping
track of other local clubs.
Apparently the DOA has other piorities. Again, that's a shame. If
the editor of DW would review the contents of the magazine, I would
renew my membership again, but I rule that out that a possibility.
Running a club is all about members and their needs. That's the only
goal. Members are the cause of its existence, not just a money
source. Or there is a power change within the board, that leads to a
totally different atmosphere. For me the atmosphere is very
important too, since I only can enjoy my DeLorean for a short period
each year. And if I do, I want to have fun. That's what the car is
for.
Feel free to react.
Frank Lommen
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "gullwingmagazine"
<gullwingmagazine@xxxx> wrote:
> Frank,
>
> This same thread came up almost a year ago because of the same
> disappointments that other readers, including ourselves, had
> observed. We decided at that time to produce our own magazine for
> the DeLorean community that would bring back the material and type
of
> coverage everyone had been expressing a desire for. I'm not
trying
> to take this as an opportunity to promote our magazine only, but
to
> inform you of the other options available.
>
> 1. "deloreans" Pub. by DMC Houston (quarterly)
> 2. "Gullwing Magazine" Pub. by Ron & Cheryl Wester (quarterly)
> 3. "DeLorean Car Show Magazine" Pub. by Ken Koncelik (semi-
annual)
>
> We're sure the other magazines would be happy to provide you with
> information on their publications. If you would like information,
or
> readers comments on Gullwing Magazine, please feel free to contact
us.
>
> Ron & Cheryl Wester
> GullwingMagazine(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 12:46:26 EDT
From: doctorDHD@xxxxxxx
Subject: Hood Struts
I would agree that the 4220 is too strong. What about those sold by DMCH for
$19.95 each? (There even less expensive. Is this a typo?)
Dave
6530
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 12:49:57 -0400 (EDT)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Air Conditioning does not work
On Sun, 1 Jun 2003, phoenix00622002 wrote:
> mistakes to the list I'm sorry. I just purchased a 1983 Delorean and
> the air conditioning doesn't work. What should I do as it uses the R-
> 12. Do I have to get a new one installed? I live in NJ where would I
What to do about it depends on what is wrong with it, of course :)
Occasionally you will find that the system just needs to be recharged; it
is 20 years old, after all. If this is the case recharging with R-12 is
no problem as R-12 is not that hard to get; most air conditioning repair
places can handle it. But if the system is leaky, then you need to have
the leak corrected - otherwise it will just leak out again. Air
conditioning places can test the system for this.
If it is leaking, you have the option of converting to R-134. But do not
let the shop tell you you are required to do so. R-134 is cheaper than
R-12 and is environmentally safe, but R-12 is also environmentally safe as
long as it stays inside the air conditioner, and the price difference is
not nearly enough to cover the cost of a conversion. So if your A/C is
not leaking, do not worry about it. If you do decide to go with 134, be
sure the conversion is complete including oil flush and ideally new hoses.
Even a well-converted system is not usually as good as the original R-12
and will increase wear and tear because the R-134 requires higher
pressure. Therefore I would not recommend converting unless you have a
serious problem with the R-12.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Sun, 01 Jun 2003 17:18:20 -0000
From: "fivetwofive" <CBL302@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: frame rot
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Mark Fearer <mfearer@xxxx> wrote:
> Hello. I understand that the frame is a dual wishbone. What common
areas
> should one inspect when checking their frame for rust?
>
> Mark Fearer
> vin 3072
> Manchester, New Hampshire
Mark,
Being a New Englander myself,and knowing the harsh winters here(and
worse in your area)the number one place to check is in the front at
ALL the weld points in and around the crush tube area,number two area
is the space between the gas tank and the frame,as salt and sand
collects there,and is not easily dislodged,number three,is inside the
main body of the frame where the motor mounts attach as that is
another cavity where moisture/salt collects,and rusts the frame from
the inside out,you must remember the areas where the frame tends to
rust out is the area(s)where the frame was made from the thinnest
metals,and being made out of mild steel,does not help it out any,BUT
then you must remember,just how many cars from that time ERA,(81-83)
are still around without any frame rust in the New England area,JZD
had a good idea at the time about,epoxy coating the frame,it just was
NOT a good idea to put it on a mild steel flexible frame as found on
the Delorean.Basically the frame was so flexible,that I remember in
the early eighties,doing a ground up/frame off restoration on a
Delorean,and when I pulled the body off the frame,ONE of the front
wheels,was off the ground,as the shocks were frozen in place
there,but because of the double Y of the frame,the frame was in a
suspended twist,until I removed the frozen shocks,then the frame
reverted back to normal.Meaning every time that the DMC frame
(suspension)hit(s) a bad bump,or you jack up the car wrong,you either
put a hairline crack in your epoxy(OR even your WINDSHIELD)which when
cracked(the epoxy)will only get worse over time and expose your mild
steel frame to the elements.
Hope this helps
Claude
00570
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Sun, 01 Jun 2003 16:06:00 EDT (-0400)
From: "Michael Paine" <mpaine@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Air Conditioning does not work
Hello Barbara,
I am in lower NY - 3 mins from Montvale. I talked to a shop that does
R12 recharges and inspections. They quoted me $60 - $90 for the job.
the first thing to check is if there is freon in the system, next see
if there are leaks and if so where. You would need to plug/fix the
leaks prior to refilling it. The place I asked said they would check
for leaks and repair any then fill it. beyond that you can check your
mode switch - large center A/C knob in the center console - between the
headlights and hazard lights buttons. See if it hisses when yoiu change
modes andhisses when you are in any mode. if so you can get a rebuild
kit for it and do the rebuild yourself - or get help... it's pretty
easy and costs $25 + shipping.
I rebuilt mine and my AC is now nice and cold - the previous owners had
recharged the AC with R12 and when I got the car the AC didn't really
work well... no air came out the vents. as soon as I rebuilt the switch
it was high blast and COLD. interestingly the part that gets replaced
when you rebuild is a small rubber disc. looking at the old and the new
ones side by side I really didn't see a difference but WOW was there
ever one when I installed it.
Let me know if you need any help or want more information.
Michael
vin# 6067
> Hello my name is Barbara. I'm new to the list. If I make any
> mistakes to the list I'm sorry. I just purchased a 1983 Delorean and
> the air conditioning doesn't work. What should I do as it uses the R-
> 12. Do I have to get a new one installed? I live in NJ where would I
> go to have this done?
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://
> groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/
> terms/
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Sun, 01 Jun 2003 16:10:27 EDT (-0400)
From: "Michael Paine" <mpaine@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: radiator fan stopped working
Hello Mark,
the fans are controlled by a few things. Parts that I understand are in
the system are the otterstat (round unit that is in the side of the
radiator pipe on the left side of the engine bay. It's RIGHT next to
the oil dipstick but in the aluminum coolant pipe. When mine went bad
my fans ran contantly, I am not sure if it can fail and have them not
run. might be a place toi check. Also make sure the fans are getting
electricity with a 12v test lamp. Be sure to check your fuses, while in
there check for the fain fail relay update or a FanZilla - you should
really get one of the two. If you dopn't have either one you will have
a small blue relay in the bottom left relay socket. REMOVE the blue
relay as soon as you can and replace it with either the fan fail jumper
or a fanzilla. I personally like to use the Zilla family of products
but it's really a personal choice.
Michael
vin# 6067
> Hello. My radiator fan recently stopped working. It used to kick on
> in
> traffic or when parked when the engine reached a certain temperature.
> Now,
> because the fan is no longer working, the car is okay as long as it
> is
> moving, but overheats when sitting still. I suppose that I could hard
> wire
> the fan to a toggle switch. Before I do that, though, what should I
> look
> for? Fuse? Relay? Thermostat? How does the fan system work? I hope it
> is
> not that sensor.
>
> Mark Fearer
> vin 3072
> Manchester, New Hampshire
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://
> groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/
> terms/
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Sun, 01 Jun 2003 18:05:02 -0000
From: "fivetwofive" <CBL302@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1520 (Unhappy about the DOA and DW)
I got disgusted with DW(dropped out) in the early 90's,when too many
of D1's ads appeared in DW,and they all said(had one thing in common)
if you do NOT buy (or service)from us your Delorean is going to fall
apart,or be worthless,till this day,the ads still have that common
thread,Since there are places like DMCNEWS and others like it,and I
might add,you get these INTERACTIVE,virtual digital news-
magazines,for $80.00---Less(meaning free)what is the need for a DW
anyway,at 4 times a year,compared to 365 days a year,that we get
DMCNEWS,and others,I really see no need for a DW,it is nothing but a
expensive paper infomercial for D1.Besides the most techy stuff that
is put into the magazine(DW)means less and less business for
them.Much the same about the Super secret(and heavily guarded) parts
sources,that will not be exposed to the general public,but every once
in a while a item or two,pops up here on what the replacement(cross
reference part really is)
Claude
00570
have more than enough
parts,to worry about
being"blackballed"
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 14:28:18 -0700
From: "Arnie Brandon" <arnie@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Control pressure regulator rebuild?
John, please help me understand your below message. As I read it, if I send
you three (3) used CPR's you will send me a rebuilt CPR for free, like zero
cost, OK? Now if I send you two (2) used CPR's and $50.00 I still get a
rebuilt CPR for free, like zero cost? Am I confused? Why am I having a
problem deciphering this?
Arnie
-----Original Message-----
From: John Hervey [mailto:john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Friday, May 30, 2003 6:25 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: [DML] Re: Control pressure regulator rebuild?
Robert, Yes I sell them exchange and have them professionally rebuilt as you
can see on the site and calibrated to the Delorean Spec.
If any one has an extra CPR say two or three, I will trade services. Send me
three CPR's and you get a new rebuilt free. Or send me two and $50.00 and
get a new rebuilt free.
John hervey
www.specialTauto.com.
-----Original Message-----
From: therealdmcvegas [mailto:DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx]
Sent: Friday, May 30, 2003 9:58 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Re: Control pressure regulator rebuild?
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxx>
wrote:
> Is there a way to rebuild these? Mine is not working properly as
> well, and I have an extra. I would like to rebuild the extra and
> install it. I know of cleaning it out and making sure it's not
> clogged. what about the electronics? can this be serviced?
>
> Erik
As far as I know, no, there isn't a rebuild kit available. At least
not available to the public. It's been a while since I last cracked a
CPR open, but I can tell you that it's not exactly rocket science.
The whole unit is just a shell, with all the internal pieces bolted
in, and a rubber gasket on the bottom sandwiched in to create the
vacuum diaphram. Tore one apart a while back, so if you want a
description, check the archives, although once you open the regulator
up, it's pretty self-explanitory.
I don't know where the rebulids are from, nor who is making them. But
as you can see from John Hervey's web site, they're not just limited
to the DeLorean version! What's funny is when I got my rebuilfd CPR
from DMCH, it appeared that someone scratched out the old model #,
and stamped the correct DeLorean one on. In addition, it also had an
Audi logo molded into the casing that had been scrached off as well!
But it works great, so I'm not gonna complain!
So in the end, I don't know where, or even if you can get
any "rebuild kits", but obviously, they must be out there. And FWIW,
the CPRs that Hervey sells look to be the exact same units at a
slightly cheaper price, judging by the tamper seals, and the filter
screens.
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
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To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
To search the archives or view files, log in at
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Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Sun, 01 Jun 2003 21:29:48 -0000
From: "aaron_t_graham" <aaron_t_graham@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: radiator fan stopped working
Mark,
I've had just about every cooling system problem that a Delorean could
have. First of all, put your fingers behind both radiator fans and
see if you can feel air coming out through either one. If just one of
them is working and one of them isn't then one of your radiator fans
has gone out (it's happened to me -- they're pretty expensive.)
If neither are working, then you can try this: The A/C switch is on a
wired-OR with the otterstat, so if you turn on the A/C and the
radiator fans come on, then you probably have a bad otterstat. You
can also take the two wires that go into the otterstat and short them
together. If both fans come on when the wires are connected directly,
then the problem is probably the otterstat. The otterstat is one of
the cheapest and easiest-to-replace components in the cooling system.
Of course, that just means (Murphy's Law) that it's probably the most
reliable. Mine, however, did go bad.
You might also have air in your cooling system. I used to get this a
lot until I got the "self-bleeder" add-on set. Try bleeding the
cooling system (see Service Bulletin ST-09-10/82, or check the DML
archives for instructions on how to do it) and see if that solves your
problem.
Aaron
#1506
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Mark Fearer <mfearer@xxxx> wrote:
> Hello. My radiator fan recently stopped working. It used to kick on in
> traffic or when parked when the engine reached a certain
temperature. Now,
> because the fan is no longer working, the car is okay as long as it is
> moving, but overheats when sitting still. I suppose that I could
hard wire
> the fan to a toggle switch. Before I do that, though, what should I look
> for? Fuse? Relay? Thermostat? How does the fan system work? I hope it is
> not that sensor.
>
> Mark Fearer
> vin 3072
> Manchester, New Hampshire
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 14:47:43 -0700
From: "trevor Johson" <dmcboy1der@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Digest Number 1520 (Unhappy about the DOA and DW)
I really have no interest in getting into a debate with any one, but I
just want to shed some TRUTH onto all the misinformation going around here.
First, Linda Porter is president, has been for the last 4 years. Ed only
recently took on the editors position when our current editor resigned, as a
TEMPORARY replacement, the board is still looking for someone with suitable
qualifications to take over for the next term. If any of you are interested,
then why not send a letter, or e-mail to a Board member? I am sure most
would gladly inform the board at the next meeting. Along those lines, If you
have a concern, why not write to the president? why sit here and piss and
moan, no one here can do anything about it, you all say, "if things would
change..." then send your concerns to the President! This is how you can
bring change, by voicing your opinions, contrary to belief, only 2 Board
members even look at the list, so in order for your opinions to get through,
send them directly to Linda. I won't pretend to know what Ed is trying to do
with dw, all I know is that if you look back, DW has over 72 issues, which
have covered just about everything there is to with DeLoreans and tech, the
new magazine still has tech, but again, in 20 years, its all been said...
You say its not interesting any more, which is why the format has been
changed, there are a lot of owners who have read everything there is on
DeLoreans, and reading about how to add an emergency release to the hood,
just isn't interesting after being published 5 times. DW has always had the
option to send in your articles and have them published, but this has just
never been taken advantage of like it was hoped. (From: "frenkieboy"
If you have concerns, please direct them to the appropriate board
member, www.delorean-owners.org has a listing of all of them, and their
contact info.
P.S. I will not respond to people looking for a fight, or rude little people
with something against someone, constructive criticism is welcome, but to
those of you who just want to argue, grow up, please.
Trevor Johnson
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 17:41:21 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Air Conditioning does not work
Barbara, Welcome to the list. If you will take a look at the web site, I
have R12 and R134 compressors you can check out.Your welcome to call at any
time.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
-----Original Message-----
From: phoenix00622002 [mailto:phoenix@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Saturday, May 31, 2003 6:36 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Air Conditioning does not work
Hello my name is Barbara. I'm new to the list. If I make any
mistakes to the list I'm sorry. I just purchased a 1983 Delorean and
the air conditioning doesn't work. What should I do as it uses the R-
12. Do I have to get a new one installed? I live in NJ where would I
go to have this done?
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Sun, 01 Jun 2003 22:40:22 -0000
From: "wbowie2003" <wbowie@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Saw a Delorean in Columbia SC today!!!
Just wanted to know if the owner of a D that I saw in Columbia lives
in town or was an out of town visitor. I saw the car at an
intersection near Dutch Square Mall. Please e-mail. This is the
first D I've seen in my town!!
Thanks!
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Sun, 01 Jun 2003 22:53:27 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: More questions than answers (Engine Failure)
For anyone who's been following this odessey, I have:
Drilled out that last stuck clutch pressure plate bolt. Removed the
clutch and flywheel. I found, absolutely nothing.
I'll recap the symptoms: Engine behaved as though it had a vacuum
leak (which I couldn't find) Oil mixed with coolant on the ground (at
least 1/2 to 1 quart). The bottom of the engine was totally wet with
the mix, especially the tranny end of the engine, and the crossbeam.
The rest of the engine was totally dry. To me, this suggested a
cracked block, or blown headgasket(s). Some of you (and the folks at
DMCH) informed me that crack blocks were extremely rare and a blown
head gasket was much more likely.
Fine. But that didn't answer where the fluid came from. There was a
lot of it, but none of it came from where the heads mate to the
block. It all seemed centered around the bottom of the tranny,
smearing back all over the bottom of the engine. The more stuff I got
apart, the more of the trail I could see, the more convinced I was
that the crank seal blew out. When I removed the tranny, there was
even a -puddle- of the fluid mix in the bellhousing.
I looked all over. I can't find a crack. The crank seal is dry. No
snail trail. WHERE is this stuff coming from????? Test this theory:
Is there positive pressure in the oil pan when the engine runs? Did
the oil pan gasket give out, spraying that area of the engine? It's
the right location. The whole oil pan gasket is leaking. The bottom
dust plate for the clutch was missing when I took it all apart. Did
it spray in there, and leave the puddle in the bellhousing?
One final question: I have a new crank seal. Even though the old one
seems intact, should I replace it or not mess with it???
Sorry for the length.
Rich
#5335 -MD
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 18:57:51 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Control pressure regulator rebuild?
See below.
-----Original Message-----
From: Arnie Brandon [mailto:arnie@xxxxxxxx]
Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2003 2:28 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: [DML] Re: Control pressure regulator rebuild?
John, please help me understand your below message. As I read it, if I send
you three (3) used CPR's you will send me a rebuilt CPR for free, like zero
cost, OK?
( Yes, As long as they are the 066 last three numbers used on the Delorean.)
Now if I send you two (2) used CPR's and $50.00 I still get a
rebuilt CPR for free, like zero cost? Am I confused? Why am I having a
problem deciphering this?
( Maby I'm not stating it proper. If you send me two cpr's and $50.00 you
get a new rebuilt.)
I put a $50.00 value on the cores.
Arnie
-----Original Message-----
From: John Hervey [mailto:john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Friday, May 30, 2003 6:25 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: [DML] Re: Control pressure regulator rebuild?
Robert, Yes I sell them exchange and have them professionally rebuilt as you
can see on the site and calibrated to the Delorean Spec.
If any one has an extra CPR say two or three, I will trade services. Send me
three CPR's and you get a new rebuilt free. Or send me two and $50.00 and
get a new rebuilt free.
John hervey
www.specialTauto.com.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 16:56:27 -0700
From: "Arnie Brandon" <arnie@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Digest Number 1520 (Unhappy about the DOA and DW)
(Moderator's note: Where ever you stand on this let's try to avoid directly flaming anyone.)
Speaking of "growing up", someday you will and you will then quit defending
Ed Bernstein and DW.
Arnie
-----Original Message-----
From: trevor Johson [mailto:dmcboy1der@xxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2003 2:48 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Digest Number 1520 (Unhappy about the DOA and DW)
I really have no interest in getting into a debate with any one, but I
just want to shed some TRUTH onto all the misinformation going around here.
First, Linda Porter is president, has been for the last 4 years. Ed only
recently took on the editors position when our current editor resigned, as a
TEMPORARY replacement, the board is still looking for someone with suitable
qualifications to take over for the next term. If any of you are interested,
then why not send a letter, or e-mail to a Board member? I am sure most
would gladly inform the board at the next meeting. Along those lines, If you
have a concern, why not write to the president? why sit here and piss and
moan, no one here can do anything about it, you all say, "if things would
change..." then send your concerns to the President! This is how you can
bring change, by voicing your opinions, contrary to belief, only 2 Board
members even look at the list, so in order for your opinions to get through,
send them directly to Linda. I won't pretend to know what Ed is trying to do
with dw, all I know is that if you look back, DW has over 72 issues, which
have covered just about everything there is to with DeLoreans and tech, the
new magazine still has tech, but again, in 20 years, its all been said...
You say its not interesting any more, which is why the format has been
changed, there are a lot of owners who have read everything there is on
DeLoreans, and reading about how to add an emergency release to the hood,
just isn't interesting after being published 5 times. DW has always had the
option to send in your articles and have them published, but this has just
never been taken advantage of like it was hoped. (From: "frenkieboy"
If you have concerns, please direct them to the appropriate board
member, www.delorean-owners.org has a listing of all of them, and their
contact info.
P.S. I will not respond to people looking for a fight, or rude little people
with something against someone, constructive criticism is welcome, but to
those of you who just want to argue, grow up, please.
Trevor Johnson
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Mon, 02 Jun 2003 01:10:04 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: radiator fan stopped working
Mark
More needs to be known Mark before a correct diagnosis can be made.
That said, if your cooling fan wiring is original, ie. a blue fan
fail module is still installed, I would say stop driving until you
get an upgrade installed. However, if you have a jumper in place of
the fan fail, which was the original factory suggested modification,
I would say the engagement relay has gone bad. That relay, as a
single relay for the fans, is too small for the circuit and will
eventually destroy itself. All cars running single relays should
replace them every year or so. If you are running a Zilla or one of
Hervey's modifications you best contact them for advice.
Until you get it fixed I would be very cautious about driving the
car. Overheating the engine has been the number one reason for
DeLorean engine failure over the years. Let one steel valve seat get
loose in that aluminum head and your engine will be due some major
work.
Harold McElraft - 3354
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 23
Date: Mon, 02 Jun 2003 01:23:04 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Catastrophic Engine Failure Revisited
Rich
Keep drilling. You have done the hard work. Once the drill gets to
nearly the size of the threads in the flywheel, the bolt threads can
be tapped out with a punch or if it crumples just right an easy out
should finish it off. It sounds like you made the smart decision
sooner than I did; an easy out is really tough to remove - which is
what I had to do.
Harold McElraft - 3354
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 24
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 18:32:21 -0700
From: "Arnie Brandon" <arnie@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Digest Number 1520 (Unhappy about the DOA and DW)
Do not try to respond to Trevor Johnson, DOA representative at the above
address. He is sending with no possibilities of return mail.
Arnie
-----Original Message-----
From: trevor Johson [mailto:dmcboy1der@xxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2003 2:48 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Digest Number 1520 (Unhappy about the DOA and DW)
I really have no interest in getting into a debate with any one, but I
just want to shed some TRUTH onto all the misinformation going around here.
First, Linda Porter is president, has been for the last 4 years. Ed only
recently took on the editors position when our current editor resigned, as a
TEMPORARY replacement, the board is still looking for someone with suitable
qualifications to take over for the next term. If any of you are interested,
then why not send a letter, or e-mail to a Board member? .......P.S. I will not respond to people looking for a fight, or rude little people
with something against someone, constructive criticism is welcome, but to
those of you who just want to argue, grow up, please.
Trevor Johnson
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 25
Date: Mon, 02 Jun 2003 01:43:14 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Hood Struts
DMCH has all the struts on sale! The best price in years. Why screw
around using something that almost fits when you can get the correct
one at a good price?
Harold McElraft - 3354
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
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