[DML] Digest Number 1446
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[DML] Digest Number 1446



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There are 8 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

      1. Re: Leather Interior
           From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
      2. Re: DeLorean Floatation Device
           From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
      3. Re: DeLorean Floatation Device (FloatZilla?)
           From: "Stragand, Dave" <dave.stragand@xxxxxxxxxxx>
      4. Re: Stiffening headboards (was: Leather Interior)
           From: "Stragand, Dave" <dave.stragand@xxxxxxxxxxx>
      5. Re: Clock and A/C light dimming.
           From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
      6. Re: DeLorean Floatation Device
           From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
      7. Re: Re: DeLorean Floatation Device (FloatZilla?)
           From: abatt10347@xxxxxxx
      8. Good day to you all..
           From: "Gary Weaver II" <gw2tulsa@xxxxxxx>


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Message: 1
   Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2003 11:20:13 +0100
   From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Leather Interior

Doh! Forgot the link

http://www.delorean.co.uk/pictures/DSCN0416.JPG

Also, Intrerior Trim will supply a set of skins for you to cover (or get 
covered) your seats with back home. It's a bit fiddly, but you can do it 
yourself

Martin

Martin Gutkowski wrote:

>Mine were re-covered by Interior Trim in 
>Belfast to the original design, but in full leather. Here's a pic
>
>
>Martin
>  
>





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Message: 2
   Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2003 14:35:41 -0000
   From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Floatation Device

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxx> 
wrote:
> You bring up an interesting problem. If the Delorean floats, how to 
> get out? I suspect it will quickly start to go down rear end first 
> because of the motor but you can't climb out a window and as soon 
as 
> you open a door (assuming you can against the force of the water) 
it 
> will go down like a rock! I guess that you could kick out the front 
> windscreen or push a fire extinguisher through it and climb out 
that 
> way tearing yourself up in the process.
<SNIP>
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757


Any car is going to sink like a rock if it takes on enough water. So 
when a car starts to sink, unbuckle your seatbelt, and roll down the 
windows and let water in. That allows the pressure inside to balance 
to the water pressure outside so you can open the doors more easily. 
Open the door, and then swim out. Just remember that the end of the 
car with the engine is going to go down first. Which if you were to 
have this happen in a DeLorean, the gullwing doors won't hinder 
egress as much as traditional doors would have.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 3
   Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 09:52:01 -0500
   From: "Stragand, Dave" <dave.stragand@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Floatation Device (FloatZilla?)

Actual accident records show that less than 1 percent of those who die
in crashes are trapped in a vehicle that has been submerged in water,
rolled over, or caught fire.  And that one percent is for all three
scenarios combined!

Assuming your D did land in the water.  What would you do?  Because for
the heavy weight bias in the rear, the car is going to be "riding high"
in the front.  All you'd have to do is get out.

Now let's assume that you spent several minutes crying that your D was
sinking before it occurred to you to try and get out.  All you have to
do is roll down a window and wait for the water pressure to equalize
inside the car and the door will open easily.  Contrary to poular
belief, the windows will NOT short out.  You generally have up to an
hour of juice in the battery while it is submerged.  The location of our
battery is a bonus, as it rarely injured in an accident.  You'll have
time.

Now assuming your door lock module happened to take this very moment to
jam.  What would you do?  Break out the SIDE window with a fire
extinguisher, rescue hammer, or by kicking.  TRUST ME.  There is no way
in he** you are going to be able to kick out a windshield like you see
on TV or movies.  There is a plastic layer sandwiched between two layers
of glass, and that plastic is insanely strong.  I used to work at an
auto body shop, and one of my jobs was removing the broken windshields.
It takes multiple blows with a sledgehammer to break through that
plastic, and it is even difficult to pierce with a knife.  Going out
through the windshield simply is not an option in ANY car.  The side and
rear glass is made from a different material that will break easily into
small cubes.

Now let's say you roll over, are submerged, and on fire while your
original door lock module jams and drains your battery too much to
operate the windows.  What would you do?  Your number is up -- don't
struggle. Go towards the light, my child.  If you are having that much
bad luck you're going to be toast no matter WHAT kind of vehicle you are
in.

-Dave Stragand
VIN #05927



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Message: 4
   Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 09:57:09 -0500
   From: "Stragand, Dave" <dave.stragand@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Stiffening headboards (was: Leather Interior)

I can second that.  I have used fiberglass to stiffen all of the
headboard material in the Vixen.  You can see pics of the results at
http://www.projectvixen.com/week137.htm
 
Bear in mind though, this is going to be a bit expensive.  It took
almost a half gallon of resin to do these pieces, and probably about 3
coats each.  That material will wick up the resin very quickly.
 
-Dave
http://www.projectvixen.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 5
   Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2003 21:15:33 -0000
   From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Clock and A/C light dimming.

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Todd Masinelli <tmasin@xxxx> wrote:
> > eliminating the AC bezel light completely during the day.
> > The panel now just illuminates when I turn on the lights.
> 
> Another way to achieve this was posted to the list by Jim Reeve a 
while
> back.  Just get a 12V/30A 4-spade relay from Radio Shack and put > 


Wish I had read that post - This is a much cleaner way to achieve 
the result!

Harold McElraft - 3354




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Message: 6
   Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2003 19:01:44 -0000
   From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Floatation Device

Hello List - Not to beat this one into the ground, but I thought I'd 
share my experience with this topic of handling at higher speeds.  As 
a reference point, you can find in Stainless Steel Illusion a section 
where they talk about wind tunnel testing of the DeLorean.  The 
finding was that the car needed to be "nose down" a bit, or 
aerodynamic lift would be a problem.  Then, recall the fact that the 
nose was raised late in the design/production phase for whatever 
reasons.  I found the aero lift at speed to be very annoying, 
especially on turn number two at Pacific Raceways.  Using custom 
springs and shocks, I lowered the front of Winged1 3.50 inches.  Then, 
we did a little "wind tunnel" testing of our own using a video camera, 
and water spray from a wet freeway, with the flow backlit using the 
rising sun at dawn.  Based on the footage that we shot of the spray 
flow around the car, I also incorporated a 1.25" rubber lip below the 
existing airdam.  This addition, together with the lowering, 
dramatically affected the aerodynamic stability of the car.  Winged1 
also runs cooler, and the steering effort is very consistent, due to 
the slight vacuum under the car at speed.  Downforce can be our 
friend.  Don't add weight to the front - all you do is increase the 
polar moment of inertia of the car, resulting in slower turn-in, and 
dramatic oversteer when you really screw up.  Mike's post is very good 
at laying out the facts.  





--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, mike.griese@xxxx wrote:

> A contributing factor to the DeLorean's high speed understeer 
> (and it is there) is the front ride height.  The nose up attitude 
> allows air underneath the car at the front, causing lift, lightening 
> it even further.
> 
> Tacking on extra weight is not the way to go about tuning a 
> suspension.  
> In fact, it's about the worst thing to do because now you have that
> much more mass you have to turn.  The first step for tuning the 
> DeLorean is to get the nose down to reduce front end lift.  




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Message: 7
   Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 18:55:29 EST
   From: abatt10347@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: DeLorean Floatation Device (FloatZilla?)

Dave,
Just had to let you know that I am still hurting from laughing so much at 
your last paragraph in your post of 4/01/03. You missed your calling my 
friend you should have been a comedy writer! Thanks for the smiles!
Bruce Battles
Vin 06569
RNDOMTA



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Message: 8
   Date: Wed, 02 Apr 2003 04:55:31 -0000
   From: "Gary Weaver II" <gw2tulsa@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Good day to you all..

I just purchased my own DeLorean and thought I'd join up to the list.

My D is an 82 5-Speed with Gray Leather. Overall I love the car and 
it will work well for my needs..

That being said, I have some issues. Being located in Tulsa, I have 
no idea if there are any GOOD local mechanics familiar with a 
DeLorean.

I'd also like to see if there are any other DeLorean owners here in 
the Tulsa area.

Oh, one last thing. Anyone have any other leads on seat covers, and 
just how does one "re-dye" some of the interior components. I've 
read it once or twice now and have no idea where to start. My Dash 
and Binnacle could really use a touch up...

-Gary Weaver





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