To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews ------------------------------------------------------------------------ There are 6 messages in this issue. Topics in this digest: 1. RE: Re: Fire damaged panel refurbishing From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxx> 2. Re: [DMCForum] Chock one up for the heat From: BondAtomic@xxxxxxx 3. lighted door key on early cars... From: "dmcjohn" <john.dore@xxxxxxxxxxxx> 4. Re: Re: Brake Calipers, Tie Rod ends, Electrical Parts Source From: Josh Keady <joshkeady@xxxxxxx> 5. Re: Re: Brake Calipers, Tie Rod ends, Electrical Parts Source From: jwit6@xxxxxx 6. Re: Brake Calipers, Tie Rod ends, Electrical Parts Source From: jwit6@xxxxxx ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 1 Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 10:50:12 -0500 From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxx> Subject: RE: Re: Fire damaged panel refurbishing Rich, Why not give the details for your panel refurbishing techniques on the list. Share your knowledge with the rest of us. Scott Mueller 002981 DOA 5031 -----Original Message----- From: d_rex_2002 [mailto:rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2002 3:25 PM To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: [DML] Re: Fire damaged panel refurbishing > Erik, > > I have had some experience with refurbishing burned SS panels. > The most important issues are how hot did the fire get, what is the > 'color' of the discoloration and how much is the panel warped? > Fenders are the easiest to refurbish, then the T-panel, then the doors > and last the hood (primarily because it is such a large, flat area). [long quote trimmed by moderator] ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 2 Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 14:05:22 EDT From: BondAtomic@xxxxxxx Subject: Re: [DMCForum] Chock one up for the heat Yes, the electrical system on the DMC is stock, and it still has the blue relay. Basically, it works like this: The light would turn on and off, and when on you could hear the fan(s). When the light was off, there was no fan noise. Now, after the overheat and such, the light doesn't come on at all, and the DeLorean overheats if not going more than 40 or so MPH. So this is what I gather I should do: Buy Fanzilla and buy the Overheat Protector. The new Fanzillas-they take the place of the original blue relay and works from there? Thanks John 4275 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 3 Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 18:29:22 -0000 From: "dmcjohn" <john.dore@xxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: lighted door key on early cars... Hi lads, My DeLorean (VIN 3810 - September 1981) has the 2 key system, and the door key is the one you push the button in its center and a little bulb lights up. Unfortunately I'm missing all the mechanisms that go inside this key to make it work, everything from the bulb to the button. Does anybody have these parts or know where I can get them? All I have is a big chunky key with a hole in the middle! Thanks, John Dore, Boston. ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 4 Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 11:44:31 -0700 From: Josh Keady <joshkeady@xxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Re: Brake Calipers, Tie Rod ends, Electrical Parts Source I think you're thinking of a proportioning valve, and they're used on many more cars than just the "computer controlled" other wise, you'd be getting the rear wheels locking up all of the time. Under even moderate breaking a lot of weight is shifted off of the rear and on to the front. If equal pressure is delivered to all four brakes (simultaneously even... some proportioning valves include a fraction-of-a-second delay) it will result in the rear wheels locking in the most awkward of manners. Granted, the Delorean rear-end has some, um, ballast, and I'm not sure how its system is proportioned front-rear, but I can assure you that many cars (especially light, FWD configurations) get proportioned regardless of whether or not they have computer intervention. Josh Keady (no D, but I like cars...) http://www.wizzards.net/keady/ on 7/31/02 6:40 PM, basfe25 at dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote: snip > Pressure > regulators are used on computer controlled brake systems...not fully > manual ones like the Delorean. > snip ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 5 Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 16:44:00 EDT From: jwit6@xxxxxx Subject: Re: Re: Brake Calipers, Tie Rod ends, Electrical Parts Source In a message dated 8/1/02 11:37:02 AM Eastern Daylight Time, dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx writes: << HUH? The front and Rear calipers are already on separate lines. They do not have a common pipe. One pipe for the two front calipers goes to one port of the brake Master Cylinder and the other pipe for the rear calipers goes to another port on the Master Cylinders. The ports on the Master Cylinders are already their own entity (separate from one another). >> I think the issue is this. Brakes transform inertia into heat. The more efficient the materials used to create heat from inertia, and transfer that heat to the atmosphere, the more efficient the brake. And the more efficient the brake, the less energy (pedal pressure) required to provide the same braking power. So highly efficient front rotors and calipers, used with stock rears, could create a situation where the front/rear braking efficiency balance is upset, and the fronts could lock up way ahead of the rears. So you'd want to lower the PSI to the fronts, relative to the rears in order to take advantage of thier higher efficiency, (Better feel, and no fade.), and still maintain a reasonable balance.....Just my opinion but it makes sense to me. Jim 6147 ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 6 Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 16:52:53 EDT From: jwit6@xxxxxx Subject: Re: Brake Calipers, Tie Rod ends, Electrical Parts Source For what it's worth, Looks like the front DMC-12 rotors are from a Jag Sovereign series 1,2 and 3, 1968 - 82 rears. Also on the Double Six 82-86 rear. My orig DMC rotors hand measured: 254 mm dia, 24 mm height, 12.5 mm thich, 70 mm dia center hole, 4 bolt The Jags show: 262 mm dia, 25.5 mm height, 12.5 mm thick, 70 mm dia center hole, 4 bolt Specs came from www.dba.com.au Their #75 rotor. Probably close enough. No spec on bolt hole diameter or spacing. Jim 6147 ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
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