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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Fire damaged panel refurbishing
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Chock one up for the heat
From: deloreanss@xxxxxxx
3. THE engine
From: "vegascop1" <vegascop1@xxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Need help adjusting torsion bar (North Carolina)
From: jrc2905@xxxxxxx
5. Re: Need help adjusting torsion bar (North Carolina)
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Re: TO ARMOUR ALL OR NOT?
From: Mark Noeltner <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: tough transmission again
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: tough transmission again
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Chock one up for the heat
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Brake Calipers, Tie Rod ends, Electrical Parts Source
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: tough transmission again
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
12. Re: Re: THE engine
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
13. Re: Chock one up for the heat
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Goodyear tires
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx>
15. #5939 is home! (plus NCT Tires and, Torsion Bars)
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. #5939 is home! (plus NCT Tires and Torsion Bars)
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Headlamp switch feeling the heatwave also
From: "foxmul2001" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. NO START ... update.. still need help! :)
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: TO ARMOUR ALL OR NOT?
From: "jeremys_im" <jeremysmail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Fwd: PRV V-6 toys & HP
From: Senatorpack@xxxxxx
21. Brakes from Rimmer bros site
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx>
22. Re: Need help adjusting torsion bar (North Carolina)
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
23. Re: tough transmission again
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
24. Re: Fire damaged panels
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
25. what kind of turbo?
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 20:24:31 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fire damaged panel refurbishing
Erik,
I have had some experience with refurbishing burned SS panels.
The most important issues are how hot did the fire get, what is the
'color' of the discoloration and how much is the panel warped?
Fenders are the easiest to refurbish, then the T-panel, then the doors
and last the hood (primarily because it is such a large, flat area).
The key to either a burn refinish or a dent repair and refinish is
blending the refinished areas into the rest of the panel.
Like SS panel dent repairs, this takes time and patience.
The process I used does get very involved, based on panel condition,
but feel free to email me off-list for the details.
Later,
Rich W.
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi,
> can the stains from a fire be taken out of stainless steel panels?
I
> know that if the doors get burned then they warp on top, but what
> about fenders? Can panels with very light fire damage be fixed with
> some elbo grease?
>
> Thanks for the info.
>
> Erik
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 16:41:47 EDT
From: deloreanss@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Chock one up for the heat
You know, Fanzilla or SpecialTauto's (less expensive) fan fix kits, do
wonders to remedy the notorious relay problems and will keep your fans
running. I recommend that you invest in either of these products. Anyone will
tell you of the dangers of the original fan fail relay (do you still have the
original blue relay?) However, what DMC Joe is discussing is the fact that
air is prone to enter the system and stop up the thermostadt causing blockage
in the cooling system. The cooling system is about 18 feet of pipes from
engine to radiator with about 30-40 joins between pipes and hoses, air gets
in all the time. DMCJoe sells a device, an automatic bleeder, that lets the
air escape into the overflow bottle. I find this little device to be
invaluable, it does its job and does it well. Every "member" of the ETDOC has
one, and we do mountainous hill climbs at each event we have, we've yet to
have an overheat. I fully recommend looking into these products. They saved
me a lot of headaches and cured my cooling woes.
John Weaver
East Tennessee DeLorean Owners Club
RED DMC #10527
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 20:52:59 -0000
From: "vegascop1" <vegascop1@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: THE engine
Thank you all for such a great words of wisdom. Jim gave me the
greatest advise of all, which were all the details of his project. He
put it mildly that its gonna cost but the results will be
unbelievable! Can you guys believe that the D with 300hp engine will
go from 0-60 under 5 seconds ?!
Anyways, for all you other folks that care, this is my project car
and not my daily transportation veh. I drive around in 2002 525i. So
again, thnx Jim and please sent me more info about your swaps,
misshaps and ideas. I know this all has been done or tried before,
believe me I read allllll of the letters posted...TWICE, but I havnt
found any of the info that Jim had sent me.
Some of you guys dont care about this stuff, some of us do, if you
want to put your 2 cents in please e-mail me privately at
VegasCop1@xxxxxxxx
thnx again for all your help, I never knew..well, probably no one
knows that D owners are such a tight group of people, thats awesome!
Ski
PS.
ohh guess what, its 115 deg's F out here in vegas and my D is giving
me hard time starting, geezz I guess its the cold start valve
or...the hot valve? hmmmm...I guess that engine swap will have to
come sooner than I expected. I really dont know how you guys do it,
its a full time job with constantly replacing parts that break or
dont work just by sitting there in the garage. ( that was on the
lighter side, no disrespect intended for anyone, but the problem is
real)
Take care guys and keep those D's on the road!
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 17:10:42 EDT
From: jrc2905@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Need help adjusting torsion bar (North Carolina)
John Cabral
781 5859899
there is that better
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 22:03:42 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Need help adjusting torsion bar (North Carolina)
I agree! I would suggest Mr jrc2905 was damn lucky he was able to realign the bracket
when under the correct torque. DO NOT attempt this task without at least one other person
and a support for the door. I do however agree that taking the louvers off makes life
easier.
Martin
#1458
Scott Mueller wrote:
> It would be nice if jrc2905 would sign his name and give his phone number at
> the end of his post on adjusting torsion bars.
>
> If you follow the procedure he listed below, the risk is very high for
> damage and personal injury. Contact one of the service providers for
> advice. Some of the clubs sponsor door adjustment parties periodically.
<snip>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 16:19:33 -0600
From: Mark Noeltner <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: TO ARMOUR ALL OR NOT?
For vinyl and plastic interior surfaces, I prefer Vinylex from the makers
of Lexol leather treatment. http://www.lexol.com/vinindex.html
It has a UV inhibitor in it and seems to do a good job of protecting the
surfaces I've used it on. I've seen it for sale at various auto supply and
hardware stores.
303 protectant (available at boat and pool supply stores) is another one
that is very good. Also has a UV inhibitor and is better for outdoor use
than Vinylex. A lot of the convertable drivers love it.
http://www.teammiata.com/303products/vinyl.htm has more info.
Mark N
VIN 6820
At 09:17 AM 7/31/02 EDT, you wrote:
>Alot of our dashes are a type of plastic over a thin layer of foam and they
>always crack!
>
>Some of us use these:
>Baby Oil
>Vaseline
>Saddlesoap
>Mineral Oil
>Suntan Lotion
>ArmourAll
>
>Any ideas??? I was hoping that other car collectors would have an idea that
>has proven
>good over the test of time.
>
>Thanks,
>Anna Noe
>88 &89 Isuzu Impulse Turbos
>92 Subaru SVX
>85, 87,87,89 300zx's
>88 Conquest TSI
>My Very Own D someday!
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 22:41:06 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: tough transmission again
Willie - In addition to spraying the linkage that is visible through
the shifter boot opening, and from underneath the car at the front of
the transmission, you need to lubricate the large cable that goes from
the shifter to the transmission. This cable does all of the
side-to-side work, while the rod does the front-to-back and rotating
work. It sounds like you have most of the problem in the side-to-side
movement, so the cable is of primary importance to you. I would get a
good grade of liquid lubricant (light oil with teflon, for instance,
or a thin grease), or a special cable lubricant, and inject as much as
you can into both ends of the cable. The forward end is attached to
the shifter bell crank (if memory serves) and the aft end is attached
to a bracket at the front end of the transmission. This should help
you to get lasting relief from the stiff shifter. Always keep an eye
on the little bushings that are part of the attachment of the rod to
the transmission input shaft. These bushings are rubber, and can be
easily damaged. If you lose some of them, the shifter will feel
sloppy, and your shifting will be "less than smooth".
Toby Peterson VIN 2248
Winged1
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Willie Mack" <wmack@xxxx> wrote:
>After my last post I took some peoples advice and sprayed wd40 on
the linkage. It solved my problem for about 2 days, but the problem
is back again. It is very difficult to move the shift lever left to
right or right to left. Do i need to put some all purpose grease on
it or what?
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 22:41:40 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: tough transmission again
Willie - In addition to spraying the linkage that is visible through
the shifter boot opening, and from underneath the car at the front of
the transmission, you need to lubricate the large cable that goes from
the shifter to the transmission. This cable does all of the
side-to-side work, while the rod does the front-to-back and rotating
work. It sounds like you have most of the problem in the side-to-side
movement, so the cable is of primary importance to you. I would get a
good grade of liquid lubricant (light oil with teflon, for instance,
or a thin grease), or a special cable lubricant, and inject as much as
you can into both ends of the cable. The forward end is attached to
the shifter bell crank (if memory serves) and the aft end is attached
to a bracket at the front end of the transmission. This should help
you to get lasting relief from the stiff shifter. Always keep an eye
on the little bushings that are part of the attachment of the rod to
the transmission input shaft. These bushings are rubber, and can be
easily damaged. If you lose some of them, the shifter will feel
sloppy, and your shifting will be "less than smooth".
Toby Peterson VIN 2248
Winged1
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Willie Mack" <wmack@xxxx> wrote:
>After my last post I took some peoples advice and sprayed wd40 on
the linkage. It solved my problem for about 2 days, but the problem
is back again. It is very difficult to move the shift lever left to
right or right to left. Do i need to put some all purpose grease on
it or what?
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 00:32:19 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Chock one up for the heat
Hi John
The stock fan-fail module (the blue thing in the relay compartment) detects an imbalance
between the two fans and lights the light. If you still have it remove it NOW and replace
with jumper wires. With 4 crimped spade terminals you can use the fan-fail light to tell
you when voltage is being sent to the fans.
As far as your question is concerned the FanZilla simply restores the proper function of
the fan fail module (it does other useful stuff too). The FanZilla also replaces the
single weak relay which drives the fans.
My personal experience on #1458 is that it takes a lot for it to get hot enough for the
fans to cut in. It stays remarkably cool most of the time. #2727 gets hot really quickly
but the fans are there to ensure the radiator is cooled when there is no air-flow through
it (you're in traffic). With the fans on, #2727 controls its temperature fine also (it
just seems to generate more heat). It has also been spitting a bit of excess coolant out
when turned off, but it has only just been put back together and things are still
"settling"
If you want to test the fans' function. Remove the connector(s) to the thermostat
(coolant pipe, left hand side of engine bay) and short them, and turn the ignition on.
Your fans should both switch on.
Martin
#1458
BondAtomic@xxxxxxx wrote:
> To make a long story short, I was driving in the city when the DMC heats up.
> I park, and the coolant comes out the overflow. I wait, clean it up a bit,
> and fill it with water. I then drive home (going a good speed to keep the car
> cool.) and it was in operable temperatures.
> My question? Well, the "fan fail" light is either on/off. First-the fan fail
> light-that means one of the two fans isn't working, right? Or does it mean
> they both aren't working? OR, does it mean one isn't working, so the other
> one shuts off?
> Then, if this "fan fail" light is on, is this "fanzilla" system a failsafe
> device to prevent any overheating problems? I read in the tech section from
> DMCJoe that the cooling system is almost equivelent of having "two
> radiators." Then he goes on to describe air bleeding and such. So, is
> Fanzilla the way to go? If both fans are operating and slower speeds, will
> the heat stay down?
>
> By the by, just wanted to thank Walt for the major help in my troubles with
> the passenger door, especially with those two "evil bolts of death."
>
> Thank you all very much.
> John
> 4275
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 01:40:29 -0000
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Brake Calipers, Tie Rod ends, Electrical Parts Source
>SNIP<
> If you use other calapers in the front than the originals, you
have a
> problem because they lock up first. The only way to fix this
problem
> is to install a brake pressure switch who seperates the front and
> rear brakes.
HUH? The front and Rear calipers are already on separate lines. They
do not have a common pipe. One pipe for the two front calipers goes
to one port of the brake Master Cylinder and the other pipe for the
rear calipers goes to another port on the Master Cylinders. The
ports on the Master Cylinders are already their own entity (separate
from one another). This was done in case one of the set of brakes
has a problem the other functioning ones will work since they are on
separate links. The fronts "share" a port on the Master Cylinder via
a "T" split, same holds true for the rear BUT the front are isolated
front the rear. The only thing that the front and real calipers
share is the Brake Fluid Reservoir. Equal amount of pressure will go
to all Calipers (front and rear) on a working system. Pressure
regulators are used on computer controlled brake systems...not fully
manual ones like the Delorean.
Steve
> SNIP<
>
> If you have any questions, email me privately (ed@xxxx)
>
> www.dmc-service.nl
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 21:51:42 EDT
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: tough transmission again
In a message dated 7/30/02 11:09:09 PM Eastern Daylight Time, wmack@xxxxxx
writes:
<< sprayed wd40 on the
linkage. It solved my problem for about 2 days, >>
WD-40 is not a long term answer, and in some cases I've seen increased rust
afterwards in areas treated with WD-40.
Jim 6147
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 21:53:03 EDT
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: THE engine
In a message dated 7/30/02 11:10:37 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:
<< Everything you've described has been done (except for the power
steering I think) >>
Have you checked out the power steering rack from the Triumph Stag?
Jim 6147
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 03:26:56 -0000
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Chock one up for the heat
Do you still have the original fanfail plugged in or do you have a
Fanzilla? If you have the original fanfail then you need to get rid
of it and either install the Fanzilla or the Fan Fail fix wires.
Your overheating problem can be caused by air trapped in the system
and installing DMCJoes bleeder kit is a very good idea. Another
cause can be that the Antifreeze has either broken down and is not
good anymore or there was more Antifreeze to water mixed in the
system. The mixture should be a 50/50 mix. Most people top off their
system with Antifreeze without considering diluting it with water
first (again 50/50 mix) which causes the system to have more
antifreeze then water.
Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, BondAtomic@xxxx wrote:
> To make a long story short, I was driving in the city when the DMC
heats up.
> I park, and the coolant comes out the overflow. I wait, clean it
up a bit,
> and fill it with water. I then drive home (going a good speed to
keep the car
> cool.) and it was in operable temperatures.
> My question? Well, the "fan fail" light is either on/off. First-
the fan fail
> light-that means one of the two fans isn't working, right? Or does
it mean
> they both aren't working? OR, does it mean one isn't working, so
the other
> one shuts off?
> Then, if this "fan fail" light is on, is this "fanzilla" system a
failsafe
> device to prevent any overheating problems? I read in the tech
section from
> DMCJoe that the cooling system is almost equivelent of having "two
> radiators." Then he goes on to describe air bleeding and such. So,
is
> Fanzilla the way to go? If both fans are operating and slower
speeds, will
> the heat stay down?
>
> By the by, just wanted to thank Walt for the major help in my
troubles with
> the passenger door, especially with those two "evil bolts of
death."
>
> Thank you all very much.
> John
> 4275
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 03:30:43 -0000
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Goodyear tires
When in doubt I always look at the tire itself. The manufacture
always "prints" the tire presure on the tire amongst all the other
numbers (tire sizes and such). You'll see it there with the PSI at
the end of the number.
Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Michael T Twigger <marktwigger@xxxx> wrote:
> Does anyone know the correct tire pressure of the
> Goodyear Eagle GT II tires?
>
> ________________________________________________________________
> GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
> Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
> Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
> http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 03:45:44 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: #5939 is home! (plus NCT Tires and, Torsion Bars)
Yahoo is such a mystery to me. Some people can figure out my eMail
address from the truncated vesion that accompanies each post, others
reply through the group. The latter is a total waste of bandwidth, so
please feel free to contact me direct: brobertson(at)carolina.net.
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 04:06:47 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: #5939 is home! (plus NCT Tires and Torsion Bars)
Yahoo is such a mystery to me. Some people can figure out my eMail
address from the truncated version that accompanies each post. Others
reply through the group. The latter is a total waste of bandwidth, so
please feel free to contact me direct: brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
#5939 came home to southeast North Carolina today. Trip south was
blissfully uneventful. BTW: where do all the complaints about D
performance come from? I had difficulty holding the car to 75 mph.
Perhaps it is the replacement engine (mine is PRV but not 100%
DeLorean, at least per tech manual). Perhaps it is the manual
transmission vs an automatic. Don't know, but I was a happy camper
(the repaired A/C and stereo helped).
NCT's performed excellent. I'm willing to sell them individually, but
would like to offer them as a complete set first (for the benefit of
anyone who needs 4). May be early next week before I get all the GT's
mounted (am taking only the rims in 2 at a time). If no one has
requested the complete set by then, will go w/ individual sales.
Anyone have any idea how to ship a tire?
Have received a promising torsion bar adjustment offer in neighboring
South Carolina. Keep your fingers crossed... FYI: have two new Rob
Grady custom struts socketed up. Passenger door is great on either.
Unfortunately I enter the vehicle through the driver's door. Rob
recommends adjusting the torsion bar (his struts are not overcharged
-- ball studs). I am quickly learning to follow his advice.
Bill Robertson
#5939 (in *MY* driveway *AT LAST*)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 04:38:47 -0000
From: "foxmul2001" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Headlamp switch feeling the heatwave also
Dear List,
I searched the archives and found nothing on the headlamp switch
melting. Tonight I went to someone's house and when I went to switch
off the headlamps, the switch was permanently stuck in the on
position. As you can well guess, if i didn't act fast, the battery
might wear down soon. I had to disconnect the switch and upon closer
inspection realized the plastic spacers between the contacts had
melted away causing the metal contacts to remain contacted "on".
This bugs me because it is a brand new switch from Delorean One and I
never use the car at night. This was a rare occasion. I didn't get
much use out of the switch. I am wondering if there is an upgrade or
a fix or should I ask for a replacement for this "defective" switch.
Thanks,
Joseph
vin 2850
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 02:45:52 -0400
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: NO START ... update.. still need help! :)
Well .. here is the update ..
First off .. thanks to all for your help so far! :-)
I have found I mixed up some of the vacuum lines and corrected the
problem
Now the car starts .
BUT!! And a big but
I double checked the timing. and its fine.
It will run . but really rough . I adjusted the 3mm hex in the mixture
control unit
Tried advancing and retarding the timing..
And can get it to idle around 2000 rpm
Anything lower and it cuts out
As well.. it seems to be running real rich . as the exhause pipes from
the engine to the cat are getting RED HOT!! Glowing!
Suggestions?!
Thanks again all for your help
-Kenneth
05541
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 06:47:51 -0000
From: "jeremys_im" <jeremysmail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: TO ARMOUR ALL OR NOT?
Armour All will give you a good shine, if you want that much, but
not much more except from sunscreen protection. Armour All
DOESN'T condition vinyl or leather AT ALL.
What you use does depend on condition. For example if you
have hard vinyl or leather then you need a deep condition. For
leather people have useds olive oil, minerial, mink oil etc. these
do reasonably well. If you really want to soften vinyl or leather
from rock hard to back to factory soft use something like
Leatherique. recommend by many Rolls Royce, Corvette, Jag,
Mercedes groups and it works like a charm but not cheap.
For regular mild conditioning again of leather the oils will work.
I've heard many people mention the suntan lotation but it needs t
be the cheap generic kind. The more natual ingrediants the
better. remember leather is skin.
Leatherique will also work for deep condition on vinvl. And for
good annual maintance. Use something with a good sunscreen
to reduce UV.
Jeremy
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, dqauto@xxxx wrote:
> Hi!
>
> We have a huge discussion going on at the www.z31.com
website for Nissan
> Zcars and I was hoping that some of you might have some
input or advice.
>
> We have been tossing around the question about TO
ARMOUR ALL OR NOT???
>
> Alot of our dashes are a type of plastic over a thin layer of foam
and they
> always crack!
>
> Some of us use these:
> Baby Oil
> Vaseline
> Saddlesoap
> Mineral Oil
> Suntan Lotion
> ArmourAll
>
> Any ideas??? I was hoping that other car collectors would
have an idea that
> has proven
> good over the test of time.
>
> Thanks,
> Anna Noe
> 88 &89 Isuzu Impulse Turbos
> 92 Subaru SVX
> 85, 87,87,89 300zx's
> 88 Conquest TSI
> My Very Own D someday!
>
> Don't just dream the dream, live the dream, and drive
Stainless!
> DeLorean DMC-12...
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 08:03:21 EDT
From: Senatorpack@xxxxxx
Subject: Fwd: PRV V-6 toys & HP
This is from the PRV engine list.
Best Wishes,
Michael Pack
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 12:59:44 -0000
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Brakes from Rimmer bros site
I emailed the company that sells the brakes systems for the TR7 car
to see if they could indeed fit onto a Delorean (vented front rotors
with 4 piston calipes) and I recieved a reply:
Dear Mr Rubano,
I very much doubt that the TR7 or TR8 parts are interchangable with
the delorean units. Without a delorean in our workshop to compare
with, may I suggest we will be unable to ascertain the
interchangability of the break components.
Apologies.
Regards,
Mike Collins.
A.M.I.M.I
Warranty Manager.
So is there anyone in that area with a Delorean that can pop by and
have them look at it's setup? I would do this myself but I'm in the
US.
Steve
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 14:43:23 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Need help adjusting torsion bar (North Carolina)
Having adjusted more than 1 door I think I can say that it is easier
to make the tools to do the job safely then to take the rear louvres
off. There is a really great article in Delorean World on not only how
to do the adjustments but what tools you need and how to make the
support bracket. Try to get a reprint.
Trying to adjust a torsion bar alone is foolish, what happens if you
dropped the anchor bracket? How would you pick it up off the floor?
There is a tremendous amount of energy in the system and just for
safety purposes this should not be attempted alone. It is best to at
least see it being done by someone experienced in this procedure and
see how it is done with the proper tools before trying yourself. This
is one of the most dangerous things you can do on a Delorean with the
potential for bodily injury AND serious damage to the car. Price a
rear window before attempting to adjust the torsion bar! Sometimes the
parts do not come apart easily and you have to work the anchor bracket
off and sometimes the bolts holding the bracket are stripped. When
working on the torsion bars you must be prepared for things not to
always "go right". This cannot be done when alone or without the
proper tools. Try to work safe, it isn't worth the risk to get hurt at
this hobby. When I adjust torsion bars I use a door prop from the door
sill to the bottom edge of the door, not from the ground, because if
the car was to move the door could fall. I also use a lock on the
strut as a back-up. Lay a large towel over the rear quater panel to
avoid scratching the stainless when leaning over. Remenber the rear
edge of the "T" panel is exposed after removing the rear plastic trim
so it is easy to cut yourself working on the anchor brackets and
bolts.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxx> wrote:
> I agree! I would suggest Mr jrc2905 was damn lucky he was able to
realign the bracket
> when under the correct torque. DO NOT attempt this task without at
least one other person
> and a support for the door. I do however agree that taking the
louvers off makes life
> easier.
>
> Martin
> #1458
>
> Scott Mueller wrote:
>
> > It would be nice if jrc2905 would sign his name and give his phone
number at
> > the end of his post on adjusting torsion bars.
> >
> > If you follow the procedure he listed below, the risk is very high
for
> > damage and personal injury. Contact one of the service providers
for
> > advice. Some of the clubs sponsor door adjustment parties
periodically.
>
> <snip>
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Message: 23
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 14:51:49 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: tough transmission again
The best thing you can do is to just dissassemble the linkage, inspect
for worn, bent parts, lubricate, reassemble and adjust according to
the procedure in the Workshop Manual. You may find the pivot bolt is
bent and on the verge of breaking. NEVER force into gear, if it does
not shift easily fix before it breaks.
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxx> wrote:
> Willie - In addition to spraying the linkage that is visible through
> the shifter boot opening, and from underneath the car at the front
of
> the transmission, you need to lubricate the large cable that goes
from
> the shifter to the transmission. This cable does all of the
> side-to-side work, while the rod does the front-to-back and rotating
> work. It sounds like you have most of the problem in the
side-to-side
> movement, so the cable is of primary importance to you. I would get
a
> good grade of liquid lubricant (light oil with teflon, for instance,
> or a thin grease), or a special cable lubricant, and inject as much
as
> you can into both ends of the cable. The forward end is attached to
> the shifter bell crank (if memory serves) and the aft end is
attached
> to a bracket at the front end of the transmission. This should help
> you to get lasting relief from the stiff shifter. Always keep an
eye
> on the little bushings that are part of the attachment of the rod to
> the transmission input shaft. These bushings are rubber, and can be
> easily damaged. If you lose some of them, the shifter will feel
> sloppy, and your shifting will be "less than smooth".
>
> Toby Peterson VIN 2248
> Winged1
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Willie Mack" <wmack@xxxx> wrote:
> >After my last post I took some peoples advice and sprayed wd40 on
> the linkage. It solved my problem for about 2 days, but the problem
> is back again. It is very difficult to move the shift lever left to
> right or right to left. Do i need to put some all purpose grease on
> it or what?
> >
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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 14:57:19 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fire damaged panels
If the panels aren't warped from the heat then you can clean them up
with 80# and then 120# sandpaper followed by a rub-down with a
blending pad. That will remove any blue discoloration. If the panels
are warped then they must first be "shrunk" back to shape by the
application of heat and then quenching. This requires an experienced
bodyman.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi,
> can the stains from a fire be taken out of stainless steel panels?
I
> know that if the doors get burned then they warp on top, but what
> about fenders? Can panels with very light fire damage be fixed with
> some elbo grease?
>
> Thanks for the info.
>
> Erik
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Message: 25
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 11:38:38 -0400
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
Subject: what kind of turbo?
Hello,
I am curious as to what kind of turbo this is. I have never seen one on a DMC that looks quite like this. just curious
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1848008144
Dave
6286
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