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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Brake Calipers, Tie Rod ends, Electrical Parts Source
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Headlamp switch feeling the heatwave also
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: lighted door key on early cars...
From: "William F. Lane" <blane@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Re: Goodyear tires
From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Headlamp switch
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
6. Re: Re: Need help adjusting torsion bar (North Carolina)
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Dave Swingle Adjust Torsion Bars In Neighboring South Carolina?
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. DeLorean Tech-Work Day
From: greglinstad <greglinstad@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Headlamp switch feeling the heatwave also
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Brake proportioning valve
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Re: TO ARMOUR ALL OR NOT?
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
12. Re: tough transmission again
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
13. Re: THE engine
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
14. Re: TO ARMOUR ALL OR NOT?
From: "shainbrannan" <shain@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: Goodyear tires
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: NO START ... update.. still need help! :)
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: Headlamp switch feeling the heatwave also
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
18. PRV V-6 toys & HP
From: Senatorpack@xxxxxx
19. Re: Re: [DMCForum] Chock one up for the heat
From: deloreanss@xxxxxxx
20. Re: Headlamp switch feeling the heatwave also
From: Josh Weader <weader@xxxxxxxxxx>
21. RE: what kind of turbo?
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
22. Re: lighted door key button repair kit
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
23. Re: Fire damaged panel refurbishing
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
24. Re: Headlamp switch feeling the heatwave also
From: "dursman" <dursman@xxxxxxxxxxx>
25. Re: NO START ... update.. still need help! :)
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 21:20:39 -0000
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Brake Calipers, Tie Rod ends, Electrical Parts Source
The original poster called them Pressure regulators so I just copied
it into it. BTW...when I said on a computer controlled Brake system
I meant anything that is electronic that is connected to the brake
system to "contol" a certain function. I'm still stuck on working on
ABS systems and more modern cars with all the fancy wiring going
into the brake system. I keep forgetting the "mecahnical" ones like
the Delorean as opposed to the "electrical" ones. I guess I'm just a
youngen. :P
Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Josh Keady <joshkeady@xxxx> wrote:
> I think you're thinking of a proportioning valve, and they're used
on many
> more cars than just the "computer controlled" other wise, you'd be
getting
> the rear wheels locking up all of the time. Under even moderate
breaking a
> lot of weight is shifted off of the rear and on to the front. If
equal
> pressure is delivered to all four brakes (simultaneously even...
some
> proportioning valves include a fraction-of-a-second delay) it will
result in
> the rear wheels locking in the most awkward of manners.
>
> Granted, the Delorean rear-end has some, um, ballast, and I'm not
sure how
> its system is proportioned front-rear, but I can assure you that
many cars
> (especially light, FWD configurations) get proportioned regardless
of
> whether or not they have computer intervention.
>
> Josh Keady
> (no D, but I like cars...)
> http://www.wizzards.net/keady/
>
> on 7/31/02 6:40 PM, basfe25 at dmcman73@xxxx wrote:
>
> snip
> > Pressure
> > regulators are used on computer controlled brake systems...not
fully
> > manual ones like the Delorean.
> >
> snip
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 21:24:23 -0000
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Headlamp switch feeling the heatwave also
I remember when I had my Jeep the headlight switch on that melted.
It was due to poor contacts and me having the brights on for a long
time. The brights I guess draw more power...did you have your
brights on? Just a guess.
Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "foxmul2001" <foxmul@xxxx> wrote:
> Dear List,
>
> I searched the archives and found nothing on the headlamp switch
> melting. Tonight I went to someone's house and when I went to
switch
> off the headlamps, the switch was permanently stuck in the on
> position. As you can well guess, if i didn't act fast, the
battery
> might wear down soon. I had to disconnect the switch and upon
closer
> inspection realized the plastic spacers between the contacts had
> melted away causing the metal contacts to remain contacted "on".
> This bugs me because it is a brand new switch from Delorean One
and I
> never use the car at night. This was a rare occasion. I didn't
get
> much use out of the switch. I am wondering if there is an upgrade
or
> a fix or should I ask for a replacement for this "defective"
switch.
> Thanks,
>
>
> Joseph
> vin 2850
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 17:28:01 -0700
From: "William F. Lane" <blane@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: lighted door key on early cars...
Contact James Espey at Delorean Motors. He may be able to help you with
your lighted key.
Bill Lane
#3635
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 16:34:05 -0500
From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Goodyear tires
that number on the tire is not what you inflate to. you go by the vehicle mfg
suggestion. example... tires on a mustang.... the tire says 40 psi... the plate on the
car says 32 psi.... run with the 40 psi and you will wear the middle of the tread out of
the tire..... run with 20 psi and you will wear the outside tread off the tire. the
vehicle mfg weight is what determines the pressure of the tire, not the psi number on
the tire. if this was true about the psi number on the tire almost all of us would be
wearing out our tires prematurely. by the way i learned this changing tires at a
goodyear store that i worked at for over 2 years.
later
mark
basfe25 wrote:
> When in doubt I always look at the tire itself. The manufacture
> always "prints" the tire presure on the tire amongst all the other
> numbers (tire sizes and such). You'll see it there with the PSI at
> the end of the number.
>
> Steve
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxx, Michael T Twigger <marktwigger@xxxx> wrote:
> > Does anyone know the correct tire pressure of the
> > Goodyear Eagle GT II tires?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 23:37:32 +0200
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Headlamp switch
On 01-08-2002, Joseph wrote:
> I searched the archives and found nothing
> on the headlamp switch melting.
I didn't search as I KNOW this has come up at least once:
I had a similar problem and posted pictures of what had happened:
<http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/lst?.dir=/Techie+Stuff/LMS+-+L
ights+Master+Switch>
> I am wondering if there is an upgrade or a fix or
> should I ask for a replacement for this "defective" switch.
I came up with an upgrade to prevent this from happening again too,
but you DO have to get a new Lights Master Switch...
Have a look at:
<http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/lightrelays.html>
The contacts seem to get to the point of melting the plastic due
to dust and/or debris from the sliding of the (non lubricated)
contacts over each others' surfaces...
Hope this helps, want to know more,
drop me an email...
JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 23:09:33 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Need help adjusting torsion bar (North Carolina)
David, I have all the back issues of DW, have read the article, and originally did my car
with the louvers attached. I stand by my position that it's a damn site easier with the
lovers off and a wrench directly on the end of the bar. The only hassle is lining the
louvers back up again afterwards!
Martin
#1458
jtrealtywebspannet wrote:
> Having adjusted more than 1 door I think I can say that it is easier
> to make the tools to do the job safely then to take the rear louvres
> off. There is a really great article in Delorean World on not only how
> to do the adjustments but what tools you need and how to make the
> support bracket. Try to get a reprint.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 22:07:17 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Dave Swingle Adjust Torsion Bars In Neighboring South Carolina?
Have generous offer from Dave Swingle to perform technical part of
procedure in neighboring state (I think I'm there to watch & hold
things). We know he can manage a newsgroup. Think he can adjust a
torsion bar too?
Bill Robertson
#5939
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxx> wrote:
> Trying to adjust a torsion bar alone is foolish, what happens if you
> dropped the anchor bracket? How would you pick it up off the floor?
> There is a tremendous amount of energy in the system and just for
> safety purposes this should not be attempted alone. It is best to at
> least see it being done by someone experienced in this procedure and
> see how it is done with the proper tools before trying yourself. This
> is one of the most dangerous things you can do on a Delorean with the
> potential for bodily injury AND serious damage to the car. Price a
> rear window before attempting to adjust the torsion bar!
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 14:49:02 -0700
From: greglinstad <greglinstad@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DeLorean Tech-Work Day
As Marty announced about the MidState Tech-Work day this Saturday (Aug 3), the Pacific Northwest DeLorean Club coincidentaly also has one of it's quarterly Tech Sessions at a members' house in Kirkland, WA on the same day. Detailed information available by contacting a Club Officer listed on the website (pndc.org). If you have never attended one of these sessions (sponsored by various Clubs, groups, Vendors), now may be the time to bring your car, meet some experienced owners, and learn that working on a DeLorean can be a fun and rewarding event. We typically adjust torsion bars and door latches, install overheat protectors, replace TAB's, general upgrades and troubleshooting, etc.
Thanks
Greg Linstad
pndc.org
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 22:20:53 -0000
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Headlamp switch feeling the heatwave also
I've had the same thing happen, apparently somewhat common. But not
to a "new" switch, just to an old one. I'll bet the operative phrase
here will be "no returns on electrical parts". You'll probably have
to buy another one.
You were lucky, when it happened to mine it the lights would only
stay on if I held the switch in with my finger. Interesting drive
home in the dark, with a manual transmission car.
Dave Swingle
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "foxmul2001" <foxmul@xxxx> wrote:
> Dear List,
>
> off the headlamps, the switch was permanently stuck in the on
> position. As you can well guess, if i didn't act fast, the battery
> might wear down soon. I had to disconnect the switch and upon
closer
> inspection realized the plastic spacers between the contacts had
> melted away causing the metal contacts to remain contacted "on".
> This bugs me because it is a brand new switch from Delorean One and
I
> never use the car at night. This was a rare occasion. I didn't get
> much use out of the switch. I am wondering if there is an upgrade
or
> a fix or should I ask for a replacement for this "defective"
switch.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 22:27:49 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Brake proportioning valve
I'm afraid Josh is correct on a car w/ rear drums. Without the
proportioning valve, braking is rather squirrely (trust me -- I've
tried it). On 4 wheel disc however does not seem to be necessary (I've
done that too, but it *IS* a 5,000 pound Lincoln). Guess it's because
hydraulic fluid is self adjusting.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxx, jwit6@xxxx wrote:
> In a message dated 8/1/02 11:37:02 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> dmcman73@xxxx writes:
>
> << HUH? The front and Rear calipers are already on separate lines. They
> do not have a common pipe. One pipe for the two front calipers goes
> to one port of the brake Master Cylinder and the other pipe for the
> rear calipers goes to another port on the Master Cylinders. The
> ports on the Master Cylinders are already their own entity (separate
> from one another). >>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 22:06:18 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: TO ARMOUR ALL OR NOT?
Mark and others, I add SPF 15 + to the leather treatments and increase the
protection. Has a little sun tan smell for a few days, but it works. If you
use a damp to wet cloth to apply, you might also see some discoloration go
away. Mine did.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/
<< For vinyl and plastic interior surfaces, I prefer Vinylex from the makers
of Lexol leather treatment. http://www.lexol.com/vinindex.html
It has a UV inhibitor in it and seems to do a good job of protecting the
surfaces I've used it on. I've seen it for sale at various auto supply and
hardware stores. >>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 22:11:57 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: tough transmission again
Willie, If you will look on my web site you will see a spray grease that has
Teflon in it. It goes on like WD40 and solidifies to a high temp grease. I
use it all over the car and it's great. It also is good on the hinges and
torsion bar. It will get in those places you can't reach and it protects from
rust. It's under other products.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/other.shtml
<< After my last post I took some peoples advice and sprayed wd40 on the
linkage. It solved my problem for about 2 days, but the problem is back
again. It is very difficult to move the shift lever left to right or right
to left. Do i need to put some all purpose grease on it or what?
>>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 22:14:59 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: THE engine
I was just wondering, What clutch system would you put in it to hold up to
the power. The standard may not work long.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/
<< I am putting the all aluminum
> 32 valve Northstar engine that produces 300hp stock and weighing only
> 50lbs more (give or take few lbs).
> With the 2700lb weight of the Delorean and 300hp engine I will expect
> nothing less than at least 0-60 in 6 second flat, if not less! Next >>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2002 03:23:02 -0000
From: "shainbrannan" <shain@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: TO ARMOUR ALL OR NOT?
Hello,
If your looking for a good product for the vinyl (not to use on the
leather seats), check out http://www.liquidglass.com Go out and buy
their connoisseur's choice cleaner and their conditioner. Clean
your car well about 2 times using a d tooth brush for any tuff stain
and apply the conditioner about once. It leaves a low shine and is
good for about 3 months. Has mink oil in in that is great for
conditioning. All of their products i have used so far seem to work
incredibly well compared to others i have tried. And no i do not
sell them.
- Shain
#10140
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2002 03:51:29 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Goodyear tires
DO NOT GO BY THE PRESSURE ON THE TIRE! This pressure is the maximum
pressure that can be put into a cold tire for the maximun load
carrying capacity of the tire. This is NOT the recomended inflation
pressure for the proper ride and handling as determined by the factory
engineers of the car. For the correct tire pressures all auto
manufacturers are required to attach a load label with the recommended
pressures, tire sizes and vehicle weight and capacity. On the Delorean
this label is on the inside of the door for the glove box. FYI the
front tires are to be 23 psi, the rears 30 psi and the spare 60 psi.
If you have changed the tires to a different size then on the label
then you should be no more than 5 psi above or below. NEVER exceed the
tire pressure on the side of the tire, always check tire pressures
when cold, driven less than 3 miles or after at least 3 hours. Tire
pressure should be checked monthly or before a long trip. Do not trust
a visual inspection for tire pressure, you to use an accurate pressure
gauge. This advice is good for all automotive applications.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "basfe25" <dmcman73@xxxx> wrote:
> When in doubt I always look at the tire itself. The manufacture
> always "prints" the tire presure on the tire amongst all the other
> numbers (tire sizes and such). You'll see it there with the PSI at
> the end of the number.
>
> Steve
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxx, Michael T Twigger <marktwigger@xxxx> wrote:
> > Does anyone know the correct tire pressure of the
> > Goodyear Eagle GT II tires?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2002 03:58:26 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: NO START ... update.. still need help! :)
If your exhaust is glowing that is a sign that the engine is running
overrich. Do not continue to operate as this will damage the CAT. It
would have been best if you didn't mess with the mixture screw. Try to
put it back in it's origional position if you can. Make sure the cold
start valve is shutting down, in fact after it starts remove the plug
from it. Again make sure there are no vacuum leaks, it sounds like you
are making the mixture too rich to compensate for vacuum leaks which
tend to lean the air-fuel ratio. Make sure there is a plug on the
mixture unit over the mixture adjusting screw, with the plug missing
there is a huge vacuum leak.
David Teitelbuam
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Digital Devices" <delorean@xxxx> wrote:
> Well .. here is the update ..
>
> First off .. thanks to all for your help so far! :-)
>
> I have found I mixed up some of the vacuum lines and corrected the
> problem
>
> Now the car starts .
>
> BUT!! And a big but
>
> I double checked the timing. and its fine.
>
> It will run . but really rough . I adjusted the 3mm hex in the
mixture
> control unit
>
> Tried advancing and retarding the timing..
>
> And can get it to idle around 2000 rpm
>
> Anything lower and it cuts out
>
> As well.. it seems to be running real rich . as the exhause pipes
from
> the engine to the cat are getting RED HOT!! Glowing!
>
> Suggestions?!
>
> Thanks again all for your help
>
> -Kenneth
> 05541
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2002 04:03:11 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Headlamp switch feeling the heatwave also
It is possible that there is a problem with the wiring in your car
that caused the switch to melt from an overcurrent condition and by
just getting another switch you won't fix the problem. You need to
determine if the current draw in that circuit is excessive. Generally
the switches don't melt, they wear out and get stuck but anything may
be possible.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "foxmul2001" <foxmul@xxxx> wrote:
> Dear List,
>
> I searched the archives and found nothing on the headlamp switch
> melting. Tonight I went to someone's house and when I went to
switch
> off the headlamps, the switch was permanently stuck in the on
> position. As you can well guess, if i didn't act fast, the battery
> might wear down soon. I had to disconnect the switch and upon
closer
> inspection realized the plastic spacers between the contacts had
> melted away causing the metal contacts to remain contacted "on".
> This bugs me because it is a brand new switch from Delorean One and
I
> never use the car at night. This was a rare occasion. I didn't get
> much use out of the switch. I am wondering if there is an upgrade
or
> a fix or should I ask for a replacement for this "defective" switch.
> Thanks,
>
>
> Joseph
> vin 2850
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 01:49:13 EDT
From: Senatorpack@xxxxxx
Subject: PRV V-6 toys & HP
This is from the PRV engine list.
Best Wishes,
Michael Pack
<<<<<This is from the PRV engine list.
Best Wishes,
Michael Pack
Forwarded Message:
Subj: Fwd: PRV V-6 toys.
Date: 08/01/2002 4:24:40 AM Eastern Daylight Time
F
------- Start of forwarded message -------
Subject: PRV V-6 toys.
From: "John Lane" <
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 08:47:35 -0700
HelloI have been interested in the PRV V-6 engine since my father purchased a
'76Volvo wagon (in 1980) which was equipped with that anemic 2.7 liter
engineI have owned several Volvos with this engine, and have put togethera
'76 Volvo Rallycar which is equipped with an even firing 3 liter PRV V-6with
a nice big turbocharger that makes 500 horses A rather amusing toy to say the
least. It has been an ongoing project since 1994, andhas a lot more power
then I could ever hope to put to use on gravel,but it certainly is a croud
pleaser I am curious to know more about the 24 valve version of this engine.
Was that version ever turbocharged ? I am also interested in the 'short
stroke' version of the engine, as it would be fun to put together a 4valve
short stroke engine with really long connecting rods to make a really
nicenoise at high revs and smoke the competition in the USA 'under 2.4
liter'class, rallying in this country. Thoughts? I can be reached at
jlane@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx a good day!!John Lane->>>>>>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 02:24:23 EDT
From: deloreanss@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: [DMCForum] Chock one up for the heat
John, Yeah you need to yank that blue plug ASAP. That thing is a sure fire
way to ensure that your engine overheats. Get the Zilla or the Fan Fix Dual
2x2 by SpecialTauto.com. I personally opted for the latter and have not been
disappointed, of course nor have my friends with FanZilla, but I payed a lot
less. Get the overheat protector from DMCJoe, it is a lifesaver. That should
set you straight, but make sure you get that @#$^%ed blue relay out and
replaced by something STAT.
John Weaver
East Tennessee Delorean Owners Club
RED DMC #10527
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 06:27:05 -0400 (EDT)
From: Josh Weader <weader@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Headlamp switch feeling the heatwave also
> I searched the archives and found nothing on the headlamp switch
> melting. Tonight I went to someone's house and when I went to switch
> off the headlamps, the switch was permanently stuck in the on
Yup, it happens, and more frequently than people might expect. I had mine
melt on me one night after a long evening of driving with the headlights
on. I had the reverse problem as you -- because of the way the switch
melted, I couldn't get the headlights to stay on by themselves without
manually holding the switch in. Very difficult to drive and shift when
you've got one hand holding the headlights on.
At the time, when I ordered a new part from Houston, Warren said he
couldn't remember hearing of that happening before. Within a week, two or
three other people on this list had experienced the same problem. I don't
remember that we ever reached a definitive conclusion as to what exactly
was causing the switches to melt, other than the obvious "too much heat
generated by the juice flowing through the switch".
--Josh
#5553
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 07:35:07 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: what kind of turbo?
This is one of the early kits that were offered. I had seen photos of this type of setup before, but it is one of the less common ones.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx [mailto:Delorean17@xxxxxxx]
> Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2002 11:39 AM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] what kind of turbo?
>
>
> Hello,
> I am curious as to what kind of turbo this is. I have never
> seen one on a DMC that looks quite like this. just curious
>
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=
> 1848008144
>
> Dave
> 6286
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2002 12:02:27 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: lighted door key button repair kit
John,
I believe DMCH (DMC Humble, formerly DMC Houston) should still have
repair or rebuild kits for these keys. I picked up a kit for my key
to my early D from DMC Houston at the Cleveland show in 2000 and still
have not got around to doing the fix yet. Too many projects at once.
Not sure what the part number is off hand, but give them a call.
Later,
Rich W.
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "dmcjohn" <john.dore@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi lads,
> My DeLorean (VIN 3810 - September 1981) has the 2 key system, and
the
> door key is the one you push the button in its center and a little
> bulb lights up. Unfortunately I'm missing all the mechanisms that go
> inside this key to make it work, everything from the bulb to the
> button. Does anybody have these parts or know where I can get them?
> All I have is a big chunky key with a hole in the middle!
> Thanks,
> John Dore, Boston.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 23
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2002 12:19:30 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fire damaged panel refurbishing
Scott and List,
Repairing, Refurbishing and Refinishing SS panels that have been
damaged, dented, burned or any combination, can run the range of
needing a skilled body and fender person, to a simple trip to the
hardware store and a good day's work of sweat and effort. Each
case is different and may require a different approach. This is
not a "book learned" process. It needs to be seen, not just read.
If there is enough interest, I would not mind demonstrating some
of my techniques for refinishing SS as a tech session at one of
Ken K's shows and you are welcome to video tape the demo. DMCH
did a similar tech session at last years open house meet and I'm
sure they will have something similar at next May's open house.
Keep in mind different techniques may be needed for each instance.
I know I will be looking to pick up some 'pointers' next May at the
DMCH open house. Stephen and James, is there a date set yet?
Later,
Rich W.
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxx> wrote:
> Rich, Why not give the details for your panel refurbishing
techniques on the
> list. Share your knowledge with the rest of us.
>
> Scott Mueller
> 002981
> DOA 5031
>
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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2002 12:26:18 -0000
From: "dursman" <dursman@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Headlamp switch feeling the heatwave also
Joseph,
Do you have any auxiliary lights on your car? Fog lights,
aftermarket headlamps, etc, that are tied into your headlight
circuit? I did, and my switch melted also. Then I figured out my
foglights were the problem. Other than that I'm not sure. Maybe
some wires are shorted out. Good luck.
-chris-
VIN 10213
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "foxmul2001" <foxmul@xxxx> wrote:
> Dear List,
>
> I searched the archives and found nothing on the headlamp switch
> melting. Tonight I went to someone's house and when I went to
switch
> off the headlamps, the switch was permanently stuck in the on
> position. As you can well guess, if i didn't act fast, the battery
> might wear down soon. I had to disconnect the switch and upon
closer
> inspection realized the plastic spacers between the contacts had
> melted away causing the metal contacts to remain contacted "on".
> This bugs me because it is a brand new switch from Delorean One and
I
> never use the car at night. This was a rare occasion. I didn't get
> much use out of the switch. I am wondering if there is an upgrade
or
> a fix or should I ask for a replacement for this "defective"
switch.
> Thanks,
>
>
> Joseph
> vin 2850
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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 09:53:12 EDT
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: NO START ... update.. still need help! :)
In a message dated 8/1/02 4:32:57 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
<< As well.. it seems to be running real rich . as the exhause pipes from
the engine to the cat are getting RED HOT!! Glowing!
>>
Doesn't high ex temps indicate a lean condition?
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