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There are 24 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. airconditioning compressor
From: "Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1@xxxxxxx>
2. Re: plastic clutch line syndrome?
From: CBL302@xxxxxxx
3. Re: clutch life in a DMC?
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
4. fans run continuously, strange wiring
From: Todd Masinelli <tmasin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: DeLorean on Matt Houston TV Show
From: CBL302@xxxxxxx
6. Re: Re: clutch life in a DMC?
From: "Payne" <bpayne@xxxxxxxxxx>
7. RE: clutch life in a DMC?
From: "Jack Singer" <jsinger@xxxxxxx>
8. Re: clutch life in a DMC?
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
9. Re: clutch life in a DMC?
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. RE: window switch
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: window switch
From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
12. RE: Lightened flywheels and other performance stuff
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. RPM's
From: "Lynn Metz" <metzlynn@xxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Overheating
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: fans run continuously, strange wiring
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
16. Re: clutch life in a DMC?
From: "Darren Cunningham" <darren.cunningham@xxxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: window switch
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
18. Re: Frame Weight?
From: "Ralf Philipp" <doc.brown@xxxxxx>
19. 1998 DOA Los Angeles Expo - Dick Brown
From: "Randy Atamaniuk" <martydmc12@xxxxxxxxxxx>
20. still problems with cooling
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
21. Re: clutch life in a DMC?
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
22. Re: still problems with cooling
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
23. Re: Frame Weight?
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
24. Re: Re: plastic clutch line syndrome?
From: "William F. Lane" <blane@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2001 00:06:19 +0200
From: "Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1@xxxxxxx>
Subject: airconditioning compressor
Would any of you be interested in an unused air conditioning compressor in perfect working order for your Delorean? If so e-me at Putsch.(AT)osu.edu
Casey
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Wed, 04 Jul 2001 04:23:36 -0000
From: CBL302@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: plastic clutch line syndrome?
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "William F. Lane" <blane@xxxx> wrote:
> Mads,
>
> I had my plastic clutch line replaced with a solid steel line in
the early
> eighties. I don't think anyone had thought of braided ss lines at
that time. Yours
> was probably replaced early on also.
>
> Bill Lane
> #3635
Was that a SOLID Line from Master to Slave,And,Wouldn't the
Viberations from the motor cause premature cracking or splitting in
the solid line.Again that is the reason the car makers have rubber
lines(or Braided Steel lines)attached at the ends of solid lines
where there is areas of viberations )(EX:The Fieros have a combo
Solid with Braided Steel lines on their Clutches)(engine,suspension
areas ect)
Claude
000570
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2001 06:54:23 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: clutch life in a DMC?
Clutch life can vary widley due to driving conditions and age. I just
replaced my clutch system on the 51,000 mile car. You can see the clutch
system on my web site and I'm also posting on the web what the old parts look
like and how to tell if the clutch is going out.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/engine.shtml
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Tue, 03 Jul 2001 23:11:12 -0500
From: Todd Masinelli <tmasin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: fans run continuously, strange wiring
Hi, everyone. First, let me just say that my DeLorean has run wonderfully
since I bought it. Being almost completely original, however, I had the
typical problem of the cooling fans cycling erratically thanks to the
original blue fan fail module -- which was not really an issue unless it was
hot and I was in heavy traffic.
Rewind to Saturday, when I drove my DeLorean in a parade. I had just
obtained a jumper to replace the blue fan fail module, but the rest of my
electrical system was stock. Since we were going to be moving at a crawl
during the parade, I thought it would be a good idea to run the AC (thus
forcing the fans to run continuously). This was apparently *not* a good
idea, though, because the constant load must have tripped the stock circuit
breaker and forced my fans to turn off (and stay off) about halfway through
the parade. The car wasn't moving much and the fans weren't running at all,
so the temperature skyrocketed and I had to leave the parade route before my
engine melted.
Fast-forward to this evening, when I replaced the stock circuit breakers
with their 40 amp and new 25 amp counterparts. I turned the key to test my
installation and now my fans run all the time. I didn't think to check the
otterstat until after I had left the place where I store my car, so I'll
have to give that a look tomorrow. The first thing that came to my mind at
the time was that perhaps I had installed the circuit breakers improperly,
but I know I took great care to reconnect all wires the same way they were
connected previously: 40 amp - black/orange to AUX, brown/orange to BAT; 25
amp - taped brown pair to AUX, other two brown wires to BAT. This, however,
is *not* what my wiring diagram shows as being correct! The diagram says I
should have brown/orange to BAT and brown/slate to AUX on the 40 amp
breaker. My electrical knowledge is severely limited, so can anyone tell me
what effect this might have? (Probably tough without looking at my car, I'm
sure.) Since I haven't noticed any major problems in the past, is it
possible the car left the factory this way and B/O wire was simply used in
place of N/S?
What harm might come from the fans running all the time? They would be
running all the time if I had my AC on anyway, so is it really a major
concern? Will the new 40 amp circuit breaker be able to handle the load?
Will my stock cooling fan relay burn up?
Thanks in advance for any help you can provide!
___________________
Todd Masinelli
VIN 6681 (Nov 81)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Wed, 04 Jul 2001 03:59:45 -0000
From: CBL302@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DeLorean on Matt Houston TV Show
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, senatorpack@xxxx wrote:
> Recently I saw this TV show rerun called Matt Houston. The Show had
a the
> main character drive a DeLorean.
> I looked up the show information on the net and found this;
> Houston's old flame (Cristina Ferrare), a model, hires him when she
is
> accused of killing her employer, a famous fashion designer.
> The show originally aired in September of 1982.
> Sincerely,
> Michael Pack
Whoa!So what you are saying is a Delorean drove a Delorean!!
(Cristina Ferrare), IS John Z.Delorean's exwife,Since it was The year
1982,this was most likely a way to get free publicity for the Car
(Delorean)and it to help the now Ex. Mrs.Delorean advance her
modeling/acting career
Claude
000570
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 23:31:57 -0700
From: "Payne" <bpayne@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: clutch life in a DMC?
The clutch in my car was replaced at about 56,000 miles. Quite a change
from my last car where they commonly live past 175,000 miles. But I love
the car so much it's worth it.
Just at a curiosity, Do the Centerforce clutches last any longer than the
OEM ones? also, what color are the pressure plates of OEM and Centerforce?
Mine has a gold one but I'm not sure which brand the previous owner used.
payne
#2975
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2001 10:57:18 -0400
From: "Jack Singer" <jsinger@xxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: clutch life in a DMC?
Wow, I have had a number of cars including one that I put over 85k miles on
it with no signs of it needing a new clutch!
Jack
5823
-----Original Message-----
From: Cameron Putsch [mailto:putsch.1@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2001 5:47 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] clutch life in a DMC?
How many miles should one expect to get out of a stock Delorean's clutch
under normal driving conditions?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Wed, 04 Jul 2001 18:21:57 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: clutch life in a DMC?
The Centerforce clutch offers better gripping power over the stock
OEM clutch (for info how how the clutch works, check the back
archives). As far as I know, the Centerforce does not last any longer
than the OEM. As a matter of fact, the clutch disc itself is actually
the same on both the OEM, and the Centerforce. My car is now on it's
3rd clutch. The first, original one lasted 27K miles. 2nd was an OEM
that lasted 2,200 miles (most likely ruined by me). 3rd is a
Centerforce still going strong. The OEM I had was silver, and the
Centerforce was gold. Looking at the pressure plate you will
instantly be able to tell the type of clutch. The Centerforce will
have wieghts in between every other finger on the pressure place,
while the OEM will not. If you're still unsure, Special T Auto has a
picture of the OEM clutch (see previous post), and the Centerforce
picture can be found at www.centerforce.com
-Robert
vin 6585
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Payne" <bpayne@xxxx> wrote:
<SNIP>
> Just at a curiosity, Do the Centerforce clutches last any longer
than the
> OEM ones? also, what color are the pressure plates of OEM and
Centerforce?
> Mine has a gold one but I'm not sure which brand the previous owner
used.
>
> payne
> #2975
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Wed, 04 Jul 2001 19:10:41 -0000
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: clutch life in a DMC?
One of the "dirty little secrets" of DMC clutches. The Centerforce IS
an OEM clutch, the same Valeo (brand) disc, with the same pressure
plate painted gold. Centerforce does add the weights that supposedly
increase the clamping action, I've had both and can honestly NOT tell
the difference in any way, except for price. My guess is that the
Centerforce makes a difference if you drive the car VERY hard i.e.
drag-racer style. I don't.
Dave Swingle
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, DMCVegas@xxxx wrote:
> The Centerforce clutch offers better gripping power over the stock
> OEM clutch (for info how how the clutch works, check the back
> archives). As far as I know, the Centerforce does not last any
longer
> than the OEM. As a matter of fact, the clutch disc itself is
actually
> the same on both the OEM, and the Centerforce.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Wed, 04 Jul 2001 12:00:40 -0700
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: window switch
Ryan - the factory window switches were identical for both sides. If one of
yours is smaller I suspect it was replaced with one of the new "almost
original" ones.
--
Darryl Tinnerstet
Specialty Automotive
McCleary, WA
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Wed, 04 Jul 2001 11:01:32 -0600
From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: window switch
The "narrow" window switch is an aftermarket item that was used on some
other European car and was sold by most or all of the vendors when the
original supplies of window switches were exhausted a few years ago. A
similar "narrower" switch was also sourced for the defrost switch. What
probably happened in your case is that one of the switches went bad and a
previous owner replaced it, leaving a "mis-matched" set in your car. One of
the advantages to the narrow switch is that the arrows are not
screen-printed on, they are a translucent plastic and can be wired up to be
illuminated if desired.
In the last six months or so, these replacement switches have become hard to
find as well, and we set out to have EXACT replacements manufactured, for
both the window and the defrost switches. I have seen photos of the samples
and they are on par quaility-wise with the remanufactured door handles we
had made last year. I expect the new switches will be available in time for
the open house this year. Pricing has yet to be determined, but I expect
that they will be LOWER in price than the previous items ($74.95 each).
We are having a quantity of the defrost (on/off) switches made without any
defrost markings on them so that if desired, they could be used in place of
the dummy switches on either side of the window switches as some kind of an
auxiliary switch (driving lights, etc) and still maintain a "factory"
appearance.
James Espey
DeLorean Motor Company
Houston, Texas
281/568-9573
800/USA-DMC1
http://www.delorean.com
_____________________________________________________________
Visit the De Lorean Motor Company web site at http://www.delorean.com to
register for our Open House to be held August 10-12, 2001 in Houston, Texas!
Don't miss it!
> Date: Tue, 03 Jul 2001 20:02:18
> From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: window switch
>
> I was wonderin if the passinger window switch is narrower than the driver
> side window switch? Is that the way it was from the factory? Thanks!
>
> Ryan- vin.#16301
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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 04 Jul 2001 11:20:40 -0700
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Lightened flywheels and other performance stuff
Aaron - Lightened flywheels only work in certain applications such as a
light weight car. It won't work at all in your case because you don't have
a flywheel - only manual trans cars do. You have a flex plate which is
already about as light as it can get, and a torque converter which is quite
heavy and impractical to try to lighten. Have you talked to John Lane at
Pacific Rim Automotive in Seattle? He has made a lot of HP out of the PRV,
and one of his favorites tricks is using Electromotive fuel injection. He
can be reached at 206-632-1175.
--
Darryl Tinnerstet
Specialty Automotive
McCleary, WA
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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 04 Jul 2001 07:52:13 -0700
From: "Lynn Metz" <metzlynn@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RPM's
Group:
I was wondering what is the "safe" rev limit on the PRV?? The tach doesn't
show red until 6500 rpms. This seems high to me. I have owned 2 Trans Ams,
2 Cameros, and currently have a Firebird. All have had 4500 rpms as yellow
and 5000 rpms as red. Can the PRV rev that much higher than my other sports
cars? ( I understand that v-8s and especially big blocks have lower rev
limits - but 6500 seems high ).
Thanks
Brian
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2001 09:04:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Overheating
I used to find it very uncomfortable to drive my
DeLorean in high heat. I had to always have one eye
on the tmep guage and, on more than one occasion, had
to pull over and cool down.
Since 1997 I have been running with a triple core
brass radiator, a self bleeding unit and the Fanzilla
unit. I now almost forget I've got a temp guage. Let
me share a recent experience.
Last Saturday I drove from So. Calif back to Colorado.
It was nearly 100º when I began 45 minutes of
EXTREMELY slow stop and go on the freeway (the OZfest
was going on). Then, 30 miles down the road all lanes
were closed due to a fatality accident (another 30
minutes of stop and go) and now we were at 100º. The
temp was 106º as I went through Baker, CA. In Vegas
it was over 100º and I was in VERY slow traffic for 40
minutes.
All the time I was comfortable with the air
conditioning on and my temp guage never quite got to
1/2 way between the first peg and 220º.
I share this story because we see so many horror
stories about "common" DeLorean problems that do not
have to be common problems. There are fixes out there
and when applied they make the thrill of owning a
DeLorean even greater because you can now drive it in
comfort and with confidence.
Have a happy, safe 4th.
Dick Ryan
VIN 16867
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Wed, 04 Jul 2001 16:22:44 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: fans run continuously, strange wiring
No matter how you mess up on replacing the circuit breakers you cannot
from there make the cooling fans run continuosly. With the A/C off,
key on, just remove one of the wires at the otterstadt switch and see
if the fans will stop. My guess is that the switch is just stuck on
from the high heat condition and age. When you replace the switch also
replace the seal and if the clip is missing order one of them too.
Refer to M:15:01. It doesn't matter which wire goes where (there are
only two). If you have an early car the switch is located on top. If
you aren't a stickler for authenticity cut the pipe, rotate it 180
degrees and order a new hose to the water pump. This is to prevent the
switch from sitting in an air bubble and not getting a good indication
of the coolant temperature. The jumper you used to replace the blue
relay is itself prone to failure. I have seen them melt. Your best bet
is a Fanzilla if you can afford it. It is really easy to install, it
just plugs in. If your car is COMPLETLY origional do something about
the lock module too before it causes problems. There are also relay
upgrades to consider so call a Delorean parts vender and discuss your
situation and they can advise you on what you should be replacing like
flushing the brakes, replacing the trailing arm bolts, clutch line,
alternater, etc.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Todd Masinelli <tmasin@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi, everyone. First, let me just say that my DeLorean has run
wonderfully
> since I bought it. Being almost completely original, however, I had
the
> typical problem of the cooling fans cycling erratically thanks to
the
> original blue fan fail module -- which was not really an issue
unless it was
> hot and I was in heavy traffic.
>
> Rewind to Saturday, when I drove my DeLorean in a parade. I had
just
> obtained a jumper to replace the blue fan fail module, but the rest
of my
> electrical system was stock. Since we were going to be moving at a
crawl
> during the parade, I thought it would be a good idea to run the AC
(thus
> forcing the fans to run continuously).
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2001 20:40:22 +0100
From: "Darren Cunningham" <darren.cunningham@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: clutch life in a DMC?
I've just had to replace mine after only 5100 miles
Darren
12180 RHD
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Singer" <jsinger@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2001 3:57 PM
Subject: RE: [DML] clutch life in a DMC?
> Wow, I have had a number of cars including one that I put over 85k miles
on
> it with no signs of it needing a new clutch!
>
> Jack
> 5823
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2001 15:54:36 EDT
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: window switch
In a message dated 7/3/01 10:20:13 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
westiething@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> I was wonderin if the passinger window switch is narrower than the driver
>
No, they're supposed to be the same width. The only replacemwent switches
I'm aware of are narrower. Sounds like a replacement switch. Speaking of
which...
I carefully pulled out my window switches to spray contact cleaner and swap
them to see why my window wouldn't move. When I put them back in place, I
discovered that the little retainer tabs had sheared off on both switches, so
that the driver side switch seems loose, leaning out of position. Anyone got
a cure for that? And a suggestion for others how to prevent it? I grasped
each switch with my fingertips and carefully rocked it toward the front to
lever it out. Not carefully enough, evidently! :(
-Wayne
11174
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2001 22:38:50 +0200
From: "Ralf Philipp" <doc.brown@xxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Frame Weight?
The weight of the bare frame does definitely not exceed 200 kg. Two people
can lift it up without a problem. My best estimate would be 150kg.
Ralf.
VIN10284
> Hi
>
> Just a quick question. Does anyone know the rough weight of a frame in
kilos ( for shipping purposes.
>
> thanks
>
> Paul
>
> Vin..... Almost There
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 04 Jul 2001 14:57:01 -0600
From: "Randy Atamaniuk" <martydmc12@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 1998 DOA Los Angeles Expo - Dick Brown
I was curious if anybody out there who attended the 1998 DeLorean Owners
Association Expo in Los Angeles, got a chance to videotape the evening C.R.
"Dick" Brown spoke about his career with DMC?
If anybody does so, I was wondering if I could get a VHS copy from you. I
will pay, of coarse.
Thanks,
Randy Atamaniuk
_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2001 16:37:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: still problems with cooling
As I sit here in San Jose in a house with no air conditioning, I can't
truely feel my DeLorean's pain. :)
Since my last post about cooling, my car started acting normal again, so
I thought that the overheating might have just been a fluke. I jumpered
the otterstat and took it out for a drive today. After just 20 minutes or
so, the needle was up to the 220 mark, and wasn't slowing down. When I got
home and shut off the car, I realized that the cooling fans were not
running at all. They were running when I had first turned the car on (with
the AC off), so I know I jumped the otterstat correctly.
I backed out of the garage with the door open when I heard a loud click
from the relay compartment and then the cooling fans came on. With the
otterstat jumped, the fans should have been on the entire time. Prior to
jumping the otterstat, I've heard this loud click from the relay
compartment before. It was in standstill traffic on the highway in
extremely hot weather. I wasn't listening for fans back then, so I don't
know if they came on after the click. Also prior to jumping the otterstat,
the fans did not come on automatically when I turned the AC on.
Any idea on what could be clicking and controlling the fans?
Happy fourth to everyone!
-Christian
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Thu, 05 Jul 2001 00:37:29 -0000
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: clutch life in a DMC?
Cameron and others, I just posted today more pictures of the old
clutch disk, pressure plate and so on. I look at this like brake
shoes, the more you ride them the faster they are going to wear out.
If you ride the clutch a long time, like some people ride the brake,
meaning not fully disengaged, the clutch assy. will over heat, and
the fiber material that grips will crystallize and get hard. Heavy
traffic is where I would get the most wear. On,off,on,off. That's
why some last a while and some don't. Make sure the peddle is
adjusted so when you let off the clutch it's fully off and you still
have peddle play at the top. P.J.Grady sells an adjustable plunger
shaft so you can make sure this will happen. If you feel the clutch
engage or disengage is to close to the top of the peddle, then you
may be calling it close. Look at what I posted today.After you get
past the home page. I am adding more pull down catagories.
(Drive train)
John
http://www.specialtauto.com/drivetrain.shtml
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1@xxxx> wrote:
> How many miles should one expect to get out of a stock Delorean's
clutch under normal driving conditions? Please tell me it is not like
a Lotus or Ferrari where you gotta change it like every 10k mi, but
on the other hand be honest I need to know. :)
>
> Casey at putsch.1@xxxx
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Thu, 05 Jul 2001 02:16:20 -0000
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: still problems with cooling
That would be the circuit breaker. Probably need a new one - not very
expensive, a common NAPA part but of course the DMC places can get
then for you too, with instructions. There are three circuit breakers
in the electrical compartment, the one off by itself near the lock
module (runs the door locks), and two next to the relays closer to
the front of the car. You can't see them unless you get your head
back there. One of those two is the fan breaker. They are small boxy
things, about 1/2 inch by 1 inch by 1 inch, with two studs sticking
out, and some fairly heavy wiring going to them. The original
breakers are too small, and should be upgraded. The one for the fans
is the one with a brown/orange wire and a brown/black wire going to
it, it should be rated at 40A, normally the left of the two but they
often get switched around. The other one with four brown wires is the
heater blower it should be rated at 30A. If someone reversed them
(not unusual) that would cause the problem. If the originals (smaller
ratings, 25A and 30A) are still in there, that could be a problem too.
Dave Swingle
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Christian Williams <delorean@xxxx> wrote:
> home and shut off the car, I realized that the cooling fans were not
> running at all. They were running when I had first turned the car
on (with
> the AC off), so I know I jumped the otterstat correctly.
>
> I backed out of the garage with the door open when I heard a loud
click
> from the relay compartment and then the cooling fans came on.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 23
Date: Thu, 05 Jul 2001 02:36:26 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Frame Weight?
I was able to lift the frame onto a flat Home Depot "Load and Go"
truck by myself. It's not all that heavy.
Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Ralf Philipp" <doc.brown@xxxx> wrote:
> The weight of the bare frame does definitely not exceed 200 kg. Two
people
> can lift it up without a problem. My best estimate would be 150kg.
>
> Ralf.
> VIN10284
>
> > Hi
> >
> > Just a quick question. Does anyone know the rough weight of a
frame in
> kilos ( for shipping purposes.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 24
Date: Wed, 04 Jul 2001 22:48:58 -0700
From: "William F. Lane" <blane@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: plastic clutch line syndrome?
Claude,
I have never checked to see if the line goes from master to slave. I assume
it probably does. I just replaced my slave cylinder and if I remember
correctly, it was solid there. I have about 22,900 miles on the car and
there doesn't appear that there is a vibration problem yet. I guess it could
happen at any time. If I ever have to replace it I definitely will use the
braided type.
Bill
#3635
CBL302@xxxxxxx wrote:
> --- In dmcnews@xxxx, "William F. Lane" <blane@xxxx> wrote:
> > Mads,
> >
> > I had my plastic clutch line replaced with a solid steel line in
> the early
> > eighties. I don't think anyone had thought of braided ss lines at
> that time. Yours
> > was probably replaced early on also.
> >
> > Bill Lane
> > #3635
>
> Was that a SOLID Line from Master to Slave,And,Wouldn't the
> Viberations from the motor cause premature cracking or splitting in
> the solid line?
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