[DML] Digest Number 576
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[DML] Digest Number 576



Title: [DML] Digest Number 576

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There are 22 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

      1. Re: Re: tin can sound
           From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
      2. Re: D for sale
           From: Todd Masinelli <tmasin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
      3. Bolts instead of plastic plugs
           From: michiel.bohmer@xxxxxxxxx
      4. computer governor (should I be concerned?)
           From: dmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
      5. Computer Governor fuse
           From: dmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
      6. Re: Hunting at startup
           From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
      7. Re: Bolts instead of plastic plugs
           From: "Donald Ekhoff" <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
      8. Re: computer governor (should I be concerned?)
           From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
      9. Re: computer governor (should I be concerned?)
           From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
     10. Re: Used Auto Transmission value?
           From: gus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
     11. Re: okay...what are the actual figures...
           From: gus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
     12. : Re: A one off factory Delorean W/a SS frame   (Was Delorean galvanized frames/
           From: CBL302@xxxxxxx
     13. Re: computer governor (should I be concerned?)
           From: gus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
     14. Re: okay...what are the actual figures...
           From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
     15. Re: okay...what are the actual figures...
           From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
     16. Re: can't remove my fuel accumulator
           From: orentha@xxxxxxxxxxx
     17. Re: Fitting tires in the car?
           From: orentha@xxxxxxxxxxx
     18. Slave Cylinder
           From: paulheymeson@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
     19. Slave info
           From: paulheymeson@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
     20. Delorean wanted - Manual only -  Engine condition unimportant -
           From: "Richard Cutter" <dmc_power@xxxxxxxxxxx>
     21. Crappy acceleration...
           From: "Aaron King" <floodle@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
     22. Minnesota June Cruise
           From: "Jim Reeve"<ultra@xxxxxxx>


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Message: 1
   Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 00:45:44 EDT
   From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: tin can sound



Check the x-over pipe heat shields. The bolts that secure the heat shields to
the x-over pipe can sheer off causing the shields to rattle like a tin cup
under acceleration. Try pushing up (looking underneath) on the shields away
from the x-over pipe.

Sincerely,
Mike Pack
DOA 4743



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Message: 2
   Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 23:54:56 -0500
   From: Todd Masinelli <tmasin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: D for sale

> page.auctions.yahoo.com/auction/49898614
> I have seen this DMC-12 for sale before,
> several MONTHS ago

KC Imports has had a few DeLorean auctions on eBay and Yahoo over the years
(including the re-listing of D's that didn't sell the first time around).
The car they're selling right now is the same one I looked into back in
March.  It should be known that the photos on the auction page, as well as
those on the company's website, are *not* of the car currently being sold.
According to the man I spoke with at KC Imports, the pics are recycled from
previous cars they've auctioned.  (Note that one of the shots on the website
shows a black interior and hood flap, while the others show a gray interior
with no flap.)

BTW...the DeLorean I bought was not from KC Imports, but it was also a
one-owner car, also had only 5K on the odometer, looks and drives like a
dream, yet cost substantially less than the $22,900 they're asking for
theirs.  It pays to shop around!

___________________
Todd Masinelli
VIN 6681 (Nov 81)




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Message: 3
   Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2001 13:41:40 -0000
   From: michiel.bohmer@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Bolts instead of plastic plugs

Hi List,

Maybe I'm missing a oint here. As I follow the discussion about galvanised frames, I wondered. The specific reason to abandon the galvanised option was "re-tapping" the holes, wich was to much work.

First of all, how much work would it be? In percentage of the total time it would take to make a frame I figure it's really small.  We could ask that Pierce-guy, but I honestly think that retapping the holes is nothing compared to the rest of the work.

But nevertheless, there will be a lot of smart people who can explain that tapping these few holes would take a lot of time and energy somehow.

Secondly, why didn't they put in some bolts, instead of the plastic cups they used for the epoxy-coating proces?? Then they would be able to galvanise the frame. Get the bolts out after?.

Two relatively simple questions I think,


Michiel

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 4
   Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2001 13:15:06 -0000
   From: dmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: computer governor (should I be concerned?)

Hi All,

I own Vin# 5462 in the UK and it is an automatic, I constantly hear
of the Computer Governor going wrong. My car is at almost 40K miles
and seems to be perfectly fine, I have jump started the car a few
times but not recently and this has also been said to cause premature
malfunction.

Is it worth having the governor changed just for reassurance sake? do
they go bad without warning i.e. will I one day be stranded / and is
there an updated version availible which will not go up the wall so
easilly. I don't want to spend a packet and having some 20 year old
replacement put in it's place!. I am not really that interested in
having to modify the governor myself as I only have limited
electrical knowledge.
Also is the governor a Ba***rd to remove is it actually inside the
transmition?

Lastly I want to change the tranny oil and fluid but where to you put
the oil in for the tranny. I know on automatics you useally have to
put the transmition fluid down the transmittion dipstick tube but I
cant see where the gearbox oil goes in?

Hope all of the above doesen't make me look too stupid.

Many Thanks

James RG
England




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Message: 5
   Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2001 13:23:46 -0000
   From: dmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Computer Governor fuse

Hi All,

Just anouther quick one!

I have heard of many people taking out the auto trany fuse if they
are jumpstarting the car. Is it then OK to replace the fuse once the
car has started? & is running?

Regards

James RG




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Message: 6
   Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2001 06:59:50 -0700
   From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Hunting at startup

Have to admit I'm stunned, if the car seems to run perfectly it has a problem?  I have much to learn.  I thought I was finished but it seems I've just begun.  My thanks to Bob Zilla and DMC Joe, I will re-evaluate.

DMC Joe wrote:

> Les,
>
> If you refer to D:04:10 of the DeLorean Workshop Manual you will see the "action circle" of the Lambda Control System. The constant idle speed system reacts to this cycle and varies the idle speed in direct proportion to the change in air/fuel mixture.

>
> Under ideal conditions (all systems operating to factory specification) the idle speed will oscillate during warm up. No oscillation during warm up is an indication that something is not at "spec".

>



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Message: 7
   Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 07:25:18 -0700
   From: "Donald Ekhoff" <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Bolts instead of plastic plugs

Michiel,

Using bolts to fill the holes would result in bolts that are fused into the
holes.  They could not be removed.  It is possible to fill the holes with
hard carbon bolts that will take the heat and shed the molten Zinc but they
are expensive and have limited number of cycles before needing to be
replaced.  Part of the issue with taping out the zinc is that it is so
strong in its own right that the tap may take out some or most of the steel
threads by mistake leaving a compromised thread that could fail later (not a
good thing to design into a process).  The other thing to do is to have all
thru holes that require separate  nuts but we all know how nice it is to not
have to get a wrench on the back side of some of those frame related
fasteners.

It's fun to see participation in the design process of a complex product
like the DeLorean, even if it is over twenty years too late.  Where was
Powder Coat, Low Temperature Stainless, or Core-10 when we needed it?  Last
week three young men just arriving from Detroit approached me regarding the
exact age of my six year old American car.  They were amazed that it was not
showing advanced signs of rusting out!  No one from Detroit or England
expects a car to be rust free after this much time. I have been involved in
re-importing Bug Eye (Frog Eye?) Sprites back to England because all of
theirs are rusted out.

Donald L. Ekhoff
Morgan Hill, Calif


----- Original Message -----
From: <michiel.bohmer@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2001 6:41 AM
Subject: [DML] Bolts instead of plastic plugs


> Hi List,
>
> Maybe I'm missing a oint here. As I follow the discussion about galvanised
frames, I wondered. The specific reason to abandon the galvanised option was
"re-tapping" the holes, wich was to much work.
>
> First of all, how much work would it be? In percentage of the total time
it would take to make a frame I figure it's really small.  We could ask that
Pierce-guy, but I honestly think that retapping the holes is nothing
compared to the rest of the work.



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Message: 8
   Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2001 14:50:29 -0000
   From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: computer governor (should I be concerned?)

You asked a lot of questions but they all relate to the health of an
automatic trans with about 40k miles. Here is what I recomend. Inspect
the fluid level and condition with the dipstick. Smell the fluid and
observe the color. Feel it between your fingers. If it is not burnt
and no small bits in it adjust the level. For the final drive you must
lift the car and remove a level plug on the side. It really is not
necessary to change it just make sure that it is level with the plug
hole. If it is shifting well there really isn't much to do except
check the line pressure and adjust if needed, check the shift computer
cable adjustment, and the linkage adjustment. If you are real
ambitious you could remove the trans pan, clean it out and clean or
replace the filter. You really can't change the trans fluid because
most of it stays inside it and the torque converter. The shift
computer may eventually go bad but even a 20 year old NOS computer
will funtion better than on that has been in service. It can be
changed without pulling the trans or even dropping the fluid. They
do't seem to fail totaly at first. You will notice weird shifting like
unexpected 3-2 downshifts. Some people are of the opinion that
jump-starting the car makes a difference but I suspect that is not so
much the case as usually when you hook up the cables the ignition on
the dead car is off so the power and surge doesn't get to the shift
computer. IMHO the major problems are the caps, moisture, and the bad
solder joints all of which can be repaired.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews@xxxx, dmc12@xxxx wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> I own Vin# 5462 in the UK and it is an automatic, I constantly hear
> of the Computer Governor going wrong. My car is at almost 40K miles
> and seems to be perfectly fine, I have jump started the car a few
> times but not recently and this has also been said to cause
premature
> malfunction.
>
> Is it worth having the governor changed just for reassurance sake?
do
> they go bad without warning i.e. will I one day be stranded / and is
> there an updated version availible which will not go up the wall so
> easilly. I don't want to spend a packet and having some 20 year old
> replacement put in it's place!. I am not really that interested in
> having to modify the governor myself as I only have limited
> electrical knowledge.
> Also is the governor a Ba***rd to remove is it actually inside the
> transmition?
>
> Lastly I want to change the tranny oil and fluid but where to you
put
> the oil in for the tranny. I know on automatics you useally have to
> put the transmition fluid down the transmittion dipstick tube but I
> cant see where the gearbox oil goes in?
>
> Hope all of the above doesen't make me look too stupid.
>
> Many Thanks
>
> James RG
> England




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Message: 9
   Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 11:13:55 EDT
   From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: computer governor (should I be concerned?)

In a message dated 06/07/2001 9:45:19 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
dmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:

<< dmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx >>

    The Automatic DeLoreans are reliable...I have driven two daily. Granted
there are issues that can arise from JUMP STARTING the car. Only jump start
in extreme emergency. As a matter of fact, the current issue of DeLorean
World magazine features an article on Jump Starting, with a special note on
Automatic owners.  There are many back issues of DeLorean World that feature
substantial articles on the Automatic transmission service. They back issues
are available at the DeLorean Owners Association web site.
    To answer the question of computer failure, they are reliable if you stay
away from Jump starting the car...drive the car enough to keep the battery
charged.

SYMPTOMS OF GOVERNOR FAILURE;

The car starts off in 2nd gear.
The car will not hold gear.
The car will shift erratically from 2nd to 3rd gears.
No first gear.

REPAIR;

The transmission computer is easy to replace...granted if you have an area
that is clean & safe to work in. The enemy is DIRT.
    The pan must be removed to access the computer harness connections to the
mechanical links inside. (Remember to disconnect the battery)
    The electrical harness is below the engine compartment light switch.

PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE;

    Change the transmission filter, and pan gaskets.
    When I change the oil & filter every 3,000 miles, I change the
transmission fluid regardless.
    Drain the fluid at the pan drain plug. (looks like the oil drain plug). 
Fill the RED fluid (Dexron 3) through the transmission dipstick.
FINAL DRIVE;
    Use a good brand 90 weight gear oil. The final drive gear oil drain is at
the bottom of the transmission (looks like oil pan drain plug).
    The fill plug is located on the drivers side of the transmission. (two
quarts)

    The automatic Unreliability is a myth.  I took the road less traveled
when I purchased an Automatic, since I view the car as a luxury car. 
    The costs associated with transmission service to an automatic unit is
similar to that of a 5 speed...expensive.
   
    Drive your automatic DeLorean with confidence. Don't be a cheapskate on
parts and service. As long as you take care of the car it will take car of
you.

Sincerely,
Mike Pack
DOA 4743



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Message: 10
   Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2001 17:04:24 -0000
   From: gus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Used Auto Transmission value?

A NOS automatic from usadmc.com is over $4k.  However, the failure
rate of the automatic transmission is very low, except for the GC, so
there is a very limited market for this part.

In other words, it's an expensive part that almost no one needs.  I'm
in a similar boat, since I have my original engine leftover from the
usadmc high-output engine swap, but it's not easy to sell since it's
rare for someone to need the entire engine.


Gus Schlachter
Austin, TX
4695


--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "ian" <ian@xxxx> wrote:
> Anyone have any ideas on the value of a DMC automatic transmission
> (28k miles, with service records, from a front-end hit car).
> Whats a fair price?





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Message: 11
   Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2001 17:24:43 -0000
   From: gus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: okay...what are the actual figures...

I have the high-output engine from usadmc and can attest to it's very
high smiles-per-gallon rating.  :-)    Here is the dyno results for
that engine type:

  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/files/newchart.jpg

I keep meaning to get some 0-60 an other performance figures but I'd
need an appropriate place to do it.

What on EARTH are you going to do with 500lb/ft of torque?  With that
you should be able to fly through the air and travel through time.  At
least Ian can sell you his used automatic transmission when yours
explodes...


Gus Schlachter
Austin, TX
4695


--- In dmcnews@xxxx, petleech@xxxx wrote:
> I've heard a lot about performance upgrades for the DeLorean each
> of them promising more go for the show of the DeLorean. So my
> question is what kind of figures are we getting out of the
> variable performance mods, things like torque, 0-60, top speeds,
> horsepower. I know one of the Volvo owners I spoke to has had
> 508lb/ft of torque out of the b28F block, is it feasible that the
> same can be accomplished with enough effort and money on DeLorean?




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Message: 12
   Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2001 18:30:28 -0000
   From: CBL302@xxxxxxx
Subject: : Re: A one off factory Delorean W/a SS frame   (Was Delorean galvanized frames/

--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxx> wrote:
> Claude,
>
> You can see a photo of the experimental stainless chassis on page
106 of Stainless Steel Illusion.
>
> DMC Joe
>   ----- Original Message -----

Yes,I have seen that pic,BUT my main question is this,if that
prototype Delorean at:  
http://www.dmcnews.com/Resource/Prototype/prototype.html  has/is the
only Delorean that had a Stainless Steel Frame installed/authorized
to be installed by JZD and Company,if so then that would be worth
more/or the same as the factory authorized twin turbo car,as James
(Espey)thinks it might have been a SS frame under it,also does
anybody know what happened to this delorean/where it is,so that
someone can take a better look at it to determine if it truly has a
SS frame under it,also the only Deloreans(as this D has front and
rear fiberglass fasicas) I have heard of with Fiberglass Fasicas,were
the 14 Test Mules that Lotus Engineering had(the orange bodied
fiberglass Deloreans as pictured in SSI(page 113)AND where are THOSE
Deloreans(as the one pic.on pg 113 showes a COMPLETE streetable
fiberglass bodied Delorean,another rare Delorean if it is still in
existance),which points in the direction that this car was a test
mule for Lotus purposes,and possible evaluation of putting a
stainless Steel frame under the Deloreans.Does anybody know more
about this Delorean,hopefully it went to someone who is taking good
care of it.
One more question that SS frame in SSI,is that the same one at the
Ulster Museuum ,where the mock up Delorean is.

Claude
000570  





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Message: 13
   Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2001 21:10:52 -0000
   From: gus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: computer governor (should I be concerned?)

List, follow my thinking here for a second.  I may have an answer for
James.

When the automatic shift lever is in "D" (drive) the selction of gears
is through the GC.  However, the GC can be overridden to select a
lower gear by moving the selector to the "2" or "1" position.

So, should it not be possible to make a jumper block that would plug
into the GC diagnostic connector and force the solenoids onto 3rd
gear, thereby allowing the driver to manually select any gear through
the shift lever.  This would be a "limp" mode to cover the possibility
that your GC can fail at any time.

I'd test this theory myself but I don't have an automatic.


Gus Schlachter
Austin, TX
4695


--- In dmcnews@xxxx, dmc12@xxxx wrote:
>
> Is it worth having the governor changed for reassurance sake? do
> they go bad without warning i.e. will I one day be stranded / and is
> there an updated version availible which will not go up the wall so
> easilly. I don't want to spend a packet and having some 20 year old
> replacement put in it's place!. I am not really that interested in
> having to modify the governor myself as I only have limited
> electrical knowledge.
> Also is the governor a Ba***rd to remove is it actually inside the
> transmition?
> James RG
> England




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Message: 14
   Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2001 21:12:48 -0000
   From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: okay...what are the actual figures...

You can do a lot of things with 500lb/ft...it's all about speed and
power. Since the beginning of time man has wanted to travel faster
and faster. :) Make the Delroean faster and not only will it be
fast...but it will be going fast with style ;).

<SNIP>
>
> What on EARTH are you going to do with 500lb/ft of torque?  With
that
> you should be able to fly through the air and travel through time. 
At
> least Ian can sell you his used automatic transmission when yours
> explodes...
>
>
> Gus Schlachter
> Austin, TX
> 4695
>
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxx, petleech@xxxx wrote:
> > I've heard a lot about performance upgrades for the DeLorean each
> > of them promising more go for the show of the DeLorean. So my
> > question is what kind of figures are we getting out of the
> > variable performance mods, things like torque, 0-60, top speeds,
> > horsepower. I know one of the Volvo owners I spoke to has had
> > 508lb/ft of torque out of the b28F block, is it feasible that the
> > same can be accomplished with enough effort and money on DeLorean?




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Message: 15
   Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 15:13:23 -0700 (PDT)
   From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: okay...what are the actual figures...


Performance equals $$$$.  This is an age old equation
that is almost infallible. 

First liar doesn't stand a chance.  This is an equally
infallible statement.

MOST people with turbos are running under 7 lbs. of
boost and they are getting about a 40-50% increase in
horsepower over stock.  Thus it would appear that they
are producing somewhere between 180-200 hp. (I would
lean towards the lower number.)  Some are running much
higher boost.  However, some of them have also reduced
compression and/or spark advance to reduce pinging.
That works, but a price is paid in performance.

There was a French "custom" sports car a few years
back that had the PRV6 engine as it's basic building
block.  When they were done with the mods it produced
675 hp. 

Top Speed?  Not 1 in 1000 car owners know what their
top speed is because they have never had the
opportunity to test it.  So, they rely on advertised
claims.  Not all of those claims can be verified.
Production specs said 130 mph (but you'd better have a
looooong road to get up to it).  The original turbo
kits hinted at 140 mph.  Now with product liability
and the like, no such claims are usually made.

Nobody in their right mind expects to take a 20 year
old car of under 3 liters  and drag with a Mustang 5.0
or race a Porsche GTR across the salt flats.  My grand
Cherokee has more hp than my D, but it doesn't go as
fast.  My VW Type III has practically NO hp and yet it
is fully as fun to drive and gets lots of looks. 
Given that, I always wonder why the fascination with
raw numbers.  We don't need performance numbers to
brag about our cars.  They get looks, compliments,
ooooh's and aaah's just as they are.

Sorry - just hit a sore point and thought I'd give my
 2¢ worth.

Dick Ryan
VIN 16867
Twin Turbos - don't know the hp or the torque but sure
know it is FUN to drive.



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Message: 16
   Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2001 22:47:29 -0000
   From: orentha@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: can't remove my fuel accumulator

Replacing the fuel accumulator has fixed my hot start problem.  Just
got it back from the shop today, and it starts up just fine after
sitting for a few minutes or 15 minutes.  Everything seems to be
fine. 
On a side note, the mechanic said that my car would be dangerous to
drive at highway speeds because the rear suspension system is
completely rusted out and he also said that it is going to probably
going to cost around $2G to get it fixed.  That's about $2G more than
I have...

Jim Teston #15314




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Message: 17
   Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2001 22:58:16 -0000
   From: orentha@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Fitting tires in the car?

Ralf is right, I can personally attest to this fact.  Just had some
new Yokahama's put on today.
1 of the front tires fits in the trunk without removing the spare.
the other front tire fits behind the seats.
and the 2 rear tires fit on the passenger seat.

--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Ralf Philipp" <doc.brown@xxxx> wrote:
> Where is the problem?
>
> two tires on the passenger seat.
> one tire behind the passenger seat.
> one (front) tire in the trunk (take out the spare tire).
>




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Message: 18
   Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2001 23:39:13 -0000
   From: paulheymeson@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Slave Cylinder

Hello List,

Today I got my replacement slave cylinder for my clutch.
Got it from Dave Howarth in our doc club uk.
I was hoping for a mechanic to fit it today as a emergency job
because the slave in on top of the gearbox at the back on a ramp
would be better than jacking from underneath and doing the task.
Unfortunatly my man was so busy he could not do it so me and my dad
had a go ourselves.
No way could we get spanners or sockets from the underside so we done
from virtuly sitting in the engine compartment and feeling our way to
remove the old slave and then fit the new one.
To conclude the story it took 4.5hours from start to end as every
bolt and nut was so tight and awkward to get to.
Phew I am glad it's done.
It can be done this way but you may go insane in the process!

Paul UK Daily driver 69000miles UK.




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Message: 19
   Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2001 23:43:26 -0000
   From: paulheymeson@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Slave info

Hi Again,

I forgot to say the slave cylinder is a bendix unit model 313211.
Which I'm told in the uk is the same as a peugot 505 but the info
could be wrong.

Paul UK.




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Message: 20
   Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2001 02:25:29 -0000
   From: "Richard Cutter" <dmc_power@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Delorean wanted - Manual only -  Engine condition unimportant -

Greetings

I am in the need of a DMC that is in good condition with good interior but
the engine will be replaced so it does not need to be driveable...
I can pick it up anywhere in the US..  Cost must be below 10K unless in
excellent condition...
If you got one or know of one please send me information.
Thanks
Rich Cutter
'81 #5467


_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com




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Message: 21
   Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2001 02:38:58
   From: "Aaron King" <floodle@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Crappy acceleration...

I have a stupid question.  Why is the DeLorean so slow?  I have an 81
automatic, and I don't expect it to be a race car or anything, but the
acceleration off the line is laughable.  Example: I put it and my 87 VW Golf
(~3000lbs with 90hp I4 and a 3 speed auto trans) on the line and my Golf
beat the DeLorean off the line and led by a car length for several seconds. 
I see no reason for this.  They weigh just about the same, but the engine in
the Golf is way underpowered.  I was thinking it might be the gear ratio of
1st gear is better on the Golf for acceleration, but (unscientific
observation) they seem feel relatively the same.  Does anyone have any ideas
or maybe something I haven't thought of?

Thanks,

Aaron King
Kirkland, WA
vin#1217
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Message: 22
   Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 02:55:10 GMT
   From: "Jim Reeve"<ultra@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Minnesota June Cruise

For anyone in/around Minnesota, I would like to let you know of a June Cruise
I'm I will be taking.

On Saturday, June 30th, I will be taking my DeLorean on a scenic drive through
southern Minnesota.  The exact route will leave the Twin Cities area down US
Hwy 52 through and past Rochester.  It will then go east along MN Hwy 16, which
is a nationally recognized scenic highway.  Once in La Cresent, MN, it will
come back up US Hwy 61 along the Mississippi River.

Anyone who wishes to join me, is more than welcome to.  (Thats why I'm posting
this).  Please email me directly (ultra'at'isd.net) to arrange a meeting time
and place.  I would like to start around 10:00am and probably have lunch in
Rochester someplace.  All together, it should be about a 5-6 hour drive, depending
on exact speed, and stop lengths.

I hope to see some of you then.  Untill then, drive stainless.

Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC-6960



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