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There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Slave Cylinder
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething@xxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Re: Please help- My Delorean won't start...
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
3. Re: Crappy acceleration...
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
4. Re: Re: can't remove my fuel accumulator
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
5. Re: Jump starting (was computer governor (should I be concerned?))
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
6. Re: transmission fluid changes (was computer governor (should I be concerned?))
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
7. Re: Computer Governor fuse
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
8. Resetting Lambda switch,
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
9. Re: Re: okay...what are the actual figures...
From: fjk143@xxxxxxx
10. Re: Jump starting (was computer governor (should I be concerned?))
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
11. ATTN: ALL CINCINNATI DELOREAN OWNERS
From: P12C16@xxxxxxx
12. Re: galvanizing D frame?
From: hholtz467@xxxxxxxxx
13. Re: Resetting Lambda switch,
From: gus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
14. #7 fuse
From: scottymckenzie@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
15. Re: Jump starting (was computer governor (should I be concerned?))
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
16. Re: Resetting Lambda switch,
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: Jump starting
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: Jump starting
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
19. : Re: A one off factory Delorean W/a SS frame (Was Delorean galvanized frames/
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
20. Fuel Pump
From: "J Rowe" <rowejj@xxxxxxxxxxx>
21. Tucker Car Collection & Bowie British Car Day
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
22. Re: Crappy acceleration...
From: "B Benson" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
23. Re: galvanizing D frame?
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
24. questions (was: convex side mirror update)
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
25. Re: Tucker Car Collection & Bowie British Car Day
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2001 03:17:30
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Slave Cylinder
I just did my Slave cylinder and your right it is a bugger. Installing took
longer than removing. I did mine from under the car and blead it from the
top. Hope I don't have to do it again for quite some time.
Ryan- vin.#16301
>From: paulheymeson@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: [DML] Slave Cylinder
>Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2001 23:39:13 -0000
>
>Hello List,
>
>Today I got my replacement slave cylinder for my clutch.
>Got it from Dave Howarth in our doc club uk.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 00:18:18 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Please help- My Delorean won't start...
Your Right, I don't want people to think they fail on a regular basic, but
based on the symptoms, This could be happening. The 20 year old ignition coil
will build up a high resistance, start to weaken and can very easy start to
intermit because of the electrical make up of wires, heat and solder joints.
Hot and cold. If there is 6000 cars on the road and one /month fails, is that
low or high. I would say low. I replace the ignition coil at every 50,000
miles on any car, due to potential problems. Yes, you may get some that could
be a lifetime, but I just don't want to worry about it since it's a low
dollar item and it will help the car run better. That's me. The impulse coil
is the same way, I have one that failed in 11004, You can check resistance
cold and there right on the money, but put a hair dryer over them for about 3
to 5 minuets and they open up. Again, You won't fine these in stock normally
anywhere, so for $29.00 or so, if I have access to the distributor, I would
replace it and then not worry any more. As in any circuit, not just the De
Lorean, Where wires,solder joints,relays,contacts are concerned, there is a
reason to try to do preventive maintenance. Something a simple as pulling the
fuses in and out a couple of times in the socket, You may find a weak contact
and over time will heat up and cause the fuse or fuse block to melt.
I could rattle about more things on the car, electrical to check. But above
would be some of the more common.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
I anyone wants me elaborate more on how the coils can fail. Please email me
direct.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 00:17:25 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Crappy acceleration...
You definitely have a problem. The auto trans DeLorean is almost as quick as the five speed. You have one of two problems.
1. Your fuel enrichment circuit is not functioning,
2, You have a defective computer governor (transmission is starting in 2nd instead of 1st)
DMC Joe
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <http://www.deloreanservices.com"> DeLorean services.com
DMC.tv is in your future .....
----- Original Message -----
From: Aaron King
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Friday, June 08, 2001 2:38 AM
Subject: [DML] Crappy acceleration...
I have a stupid question. Why is the DeLorean so slow? I have an 81
automatic, and I don't expect it to be a race car or anything, but the
acceleration off the line is laughable. Example: I put it and my 87 VW Golf
(~3000lbs with 90hp I4 and a 3 speed auto trans) on the line and my Golf
beat the DeLorean off the line and led by a car length for several seconds.
I see no reason for this. They weigh just about the same, but the engine in
the Golf is way underpowered. I was thinking it might be the gear ratio of
1st gear is better on the Golf for acceleration, but (unscientific
observation) they seem feel relatively the same. Does anyone have any ideas
or maybe something I haven't thought of?
Thanks,
Aaron King
Kirkland, WA
vin#1217
_________________________________________________________________
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 01:04:08 EDT
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: can't remove my fuel accumulator
In a message dated 6/7/01 11:15:07 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
orentha@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:
<< On a side note, the mechanic said that my car would be dangerous to
drive at highway speeds because the rear suspension system is
completely rusted out and he also said that it is going to probably
going to cost around $2G to get it fixed. That's about $2G more than
I have...
>>
Jim,
What part on the rear suspension is rusted out? Trailing arms? Coil
springs? Sections of the frame where the lower and/or upper links connect?
Later,
Nick
1852
<A HREF="" href="Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548</A>
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 01:50:29 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Jump starting (was computer governor (should I be concerned?))
Senator,
I think that the suggestion to only jump-start DeLoreans in extreme
emergencies is being too conservative. As long as some basic guidelines are
followed, there should be no danger of voltage spikes damaging the computer
governor. Here are my guidelines. Y'all correct me if I'm wrong and add
anything that gives more insight.
1) Before trying to start the parasite car, it is useful to leave the host
car running with the jumper cables connected for a while. (Then shut it off
before cranking!) This is for two reasons: First, this will help to charge
the dead battery. Even with a partial charge, any current delivered by it
will help considerably toward getting the car started. Long jumper cables
particularly with their weak electrical connections do not make good
conductors for the high current it takes to run a starter. Second, having
the host car running will provide a higher and considerably more effective
charging voltage (typically 14 volts or more) than with the host car not
running (typically 12 volts, maybe less).
2) Never have the host car running while cranking the parasite car. Despite
the little extra kick that this may provide, don't do it. The reason for
this is because the parasite car's starter may put an excessive load on the
host car's alternator causing it to overheat, burn out diodes, and produce
spikes as the regulator deals with the excessive load. Alternators are only
designed to produce enough current to charge the battery and run the rest of
the car. They do not have a high enough capacity or a regulator that is
meant to handle the load of starting a car.
Another tip for jump-starting DeLoreans: In order to get jumper cables to
make a good connection, it helps to bite into a soft metal such as like the
lead posts that are used on car batteries. Now don't get me wrong -- it is
a bad idea to jumper directly at the battery because any sparks in the area
can ignite gasses (yadda yadda yadda)... Instead of messing up the threads
on the brass bolt in the engine compartment, I suggest threading a lead
battery stud to it to provide a soft gripping place for when you need it.
The only disadvantage I see from this is that the black insulating cap won't
cover it any more. Also providing a lead grounding post nearby would be a
good idea as well. Soft lead always provides a superior gripping surface
for jumper cables than hard engine parts.
Walt Tampa, FL
-----Original Message-----
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx <senatorpack@xxxxxx>
<snip>
> The Automatic DeLoreans are reliable...I have driven two daily. Granted
>there are issues that can arise from JUMP STARTING the car. Only jump start
>in extreme emergency. As a matter of fact, the current issue of DeLorean
>World magazine features an article on Jump Starting, with a special note on
>Automatic owners.
<snip>
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 01:50:40 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: transmission fluid changes (was computer governor (should I be concerned?))
Senator,
In a conversation with Rob Grady, I suggested that I should change the
automatic transmission fluid in my DeLorean every 30K miles. Rob suggested
doing it every 20K miles to be on the safe side since he has seen moisture
(and consequently rust) form inside. Comparing Rob's proactive interval
with yours of every 3K miles makes yours seem wastefully frequent. IMHO,
(forgive me if this sounds condescending because I don't mean it to) if you
want to err on the side of too much maintenance AND do what is best for your
car AND get the most for your money then I suggest changing your
transmission fluid less often and putting those resources toward changing
your motor oil more frequently. I say this because I have known of several
people who change their motor oil as frequently as every 1K miles yet change
the tranny fluid much, MUCH less often. Can you give us more insight as to
why you put so much emphasis on transmission maintenance?
Walt Tampa, FL
-----Original Message-----
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx <senatorpack@xxxxxx>
<snip>
>PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE;
>
> Change the transmission filter, and pan gaskets.
> When I change the oil & filter every 3,000 miles, I change the
>transmission fluid regardless.
<snip>
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 01:50:49 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Computer Governor fuse
As long as proper procedures are followed, (meaning don't have the host
car's engine running while you crank the parasite car) then you shouldn't
need to pull the tranny fuse in the first place.
Walt Tampa, FL
-----Original Message-----
From: dmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx <dmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
<snip>
>I have heard of many people taking out the auto trany fuse if they
>are jumpstarting the car. Is it then OK to replace the fuse once the
>car has started? & is running?
<snip>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 05:41:14 EDT
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
Subject: Resetting Lambda switch,
Okay, I've already asked the dumb question about what the Lambda
light is for. Can someone help me with resetting the Lambda switch
though? I can't seem to find it on the part itself. I know this
has been covered before so if you can just send me a private mail
if you wish.
Thank you for all the great help as always,
Richard
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2001 09:13:33 EDT
From: fjk143@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: okay...what are the actual figures...
500 hp and 500 lb ft equal fun in the right car. Ask any Viper, big block Cobra, big block Corvette or Porsche Twin Turbo or Turbo owner...sometimes cars that have been breathed on to reach those figures...and they will tell you it is fun. Put that in a Corvair and you have death as is likely the case in a DeLorean as it was drawing board designed NOT to handle the stresses brought on by that kind of juice - broken welds, twisted frame and suspension members, failed trannys, broken prop shafts and half shafts, brake failure from high speed deacceleration, boiling brake fluid from repeated braking from high speeds, destroyed tires, sheared bolts, etc. How do I know? Been there, done that as a kid. Accept your car for what it is and maybe get a little more power/torque/handling from tuning. If you need the huge numbers, save your money and get a car designed for it. Take care and be safe.
Fred
6894 - getting the Houston Stage One tuning treatment now
2001 996 Twin Turbo with tuning to 480 and 480 (have seen 177.5 (computers!) with 2000 RPM left
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2001 13:46:54 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Jump starting (was computer governor (should I be concerned?))
If you look at the procedures to jump start newer cars the news is
DON'T. Most of the latest cars with all of the computers do not allow
jump starting. The procedure is to either remove and recharge the
battery or replace with a charged one. I won't go as far as saying
that is what to do on the Delorean but the safest way to get it going
with a dead battery is to (with the ignition off) hook up a battery
pack to the stud in the engine compartment and then the engine
(ground). The car should start right up without having a surge go
through the car.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Walter" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> Senator,
>
> I think that the suggestion to only jump-start DeLoreans in extreme
> emergencies is being too conservative. As long as some basic
guidelines are
> for jumper cables than hard engine parts.
>
> Walt Tampa, FL
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: senatorpack@xxxx <senatorpack@xxxx>
> <snip>
> > The Automatic DeLoreans are reliable...I have driven two daily.
Granted
> >there are issues that can arise from JUMP STARTING the car. Only
jump start
> >in extreme emergency. As a matter of fact, the current issue of
DeLorean
> >World magazine features an article on Jump Starting, with a special
note on
> >Automatic owners.
> <snip>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 11:35:49 EDT
From: P12C16@xxxxxxx
Subject: ATTN: ALL CINCINNATI DELOREAN OWNERS
Hey List,
For your information, a car show is being held every Wednesday this summer in
front of the Petsmart next to the Kings Automall. They have a really great
show and there are many Corvettes and hot rods, and I think we should put
some DeLoreans in there to make the show exciting!
Hope to see some of you there this summer!
Patrick (Not living the dream yet....)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2001 15:59:47 -0000
From: hholtz467@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: galvanizing D frame?
How tough would a Powder Coating be under normal driving conditions?
I found a shop about 5 miles from my house that has the facilities to
powder coat car frames. I would suspect that it's strong enough
because they specialize in car parts such as control arms and
springs, along with powder coating motorcycle frames. They claim
they have hundereds of colors and textures to choose from.
You all think this is a good permanent way to beat frame rust?
MacG467
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2001 16:39:18 -0000
From: gus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Resetting Lambda switch,
It's difficult to reset the lambda counter without removing it, but it
can be done. There is a reset dial that is turned to bring the
counter back to zero, but it is flat with two small holes.
I reset mine by making an impression of the dial with clay, marking
the clay with ink, and pressing a small piece of plastic against the
clay; I used a plastic bottle cap. The ink left two dots on cap,
forming a template. I tapped two small brads into the dots and cut
them to about 1-2 mm high with a dremel.
This could then be used as a tool to turn the dial. However, you must
watch the counter while you're doing it, so it helps to have a mirror
and be able to read upside-down and backwards while using long, skinny
fingers to turn a bottle cap a few degrees at a time.
Or, you could remove and replace.
Gus Schlachter
Austin, TX
4695
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, RJRavalli@xxxx wrote:
> Okay, I've already asked the dumb question about what the Lambda
> light is for. Can someone help me with resetting the Lambda switch
> though? I can't seem to find it on the part itself. I know this
> has been covered before so if you can just send me a private mail
> if you wish.
>
> Thank you for all the great help as always,
>
> Richard
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2001 17:33:11 -0000
From: scottymckenzie@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: #7 fuse
Why does this fuse go bad?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2001 16:35:03 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Jump starting (was computer governor (should I be concerned?))
Jump-starting any car has its hazards. Any car with a computer is in
danger of the same affects of jump-starting it as the Delorean. Did
you know that vehicle manufactures advise you NOT to jump-start any
car that is equipped with air bags? If not done right then you an
inadvertently deploy the air bags as you are jump-starting the car.
Care should be taken when jump-starting any car. As long as you
follow the procedures Walt outlined PLUS the ones below, you will be
fine:
1. On the "Host" car connect the positive cable first to the positive
side of the battery then the negative cable to the negative side of
the battery.
2. On the car with the dead battery: Connect the positive cable to
the positive side of the battery and connect the negative cable to
the engine block or chassis (whichever will provide a good ground).
The jumper posts on the Delorean in the engine compartment provide
good connections. What I tend to do before connecting the Jumper
cables to either car is this: I put one of the clamps onto the post
(with all of the other clamps disconnected) and rock it back and
forth a little. The teeth that are on the clamps will scrape away any
oxidation and bite into the metal. Just be sure the other three
clamps are not connected to anything.
By connecting the positive cable first THEN the negative cable, you
eliminate/minimize any surge that is sent into the electrical system
of BOTH cars. I have seen countless amount of times people installing
new batteries into their car and connecting the ground first then the
positive lead and then wonder why all of their bulbs all burnt out at
the same time in their dash board or why their computer fried.
Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Walter" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> Senator,
>
> I think that the suggestion to only jump-start DeLoreans in extreme
> emergencies is being too conservative. As long as some basic
guidelines are
> followed, there should be no danger of voltage spikes damaging the
computer
> governor. Here are my guidelines. Y'all correct me if I'm wrong
and add
> anything that gives more insight.
>
> 1) Before trying to start the parasite car, it is useful to leave
the host
> car running with the jumper cables connected for a while. (Then
shut it off
> before cranking!) This is for two reasons: First, this will help
to charge
> the dead battery. Even with a partial charge, any current
delivered by it
> will help considerably toward getting the car started. Long jumper
cables
> particularly with their weak electrical connections do not make good
> conductors for the high current it takes to run a starter. Second,
having
> the host car running will provide a higher and considerably more
effective
> charging voltage (typically 14 volts or more) than with the host
car not
> running (typically 12 volts, maybe less).
>
> 2) Never have the host car running while cranking the parasite
car. Despite
> the little extra kick that this may provide, don't do it. The
reason for
> this is because the parasite car's starter may put an excessive
load on the
> host car's alternator causing it to overheat, burn out diodes, and
produce
> spikes as the regulator deals with the excessive load. Alternators
are only
> designed to produce enough current to charge the battery and run
the rest of
> the car. They do not have a high enough capacity or a regulator
that is
> meant to handle the load of starting a car.
>
> <SNIP>>
> Walt Tampa, FL
>
> <SNIP>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2001 19:13:03 -0000
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Resetting Lambda switch,
Don't you just love it when someone comes up with such an elegant
solution to a problem you only have to solve every 30,000 miles
(probably about every 10 years for must of us)! What a dedicated
group! Gus - I'm impressed (maybe too easily)
Dave Swingle
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, gus@xxxx wrote:
> It's difficult to reset the lambda counter without removing it, but
it
> can be done. ...> I reset mine by making an impression of the dial
with clay, marking
> the clay with ink, and pressing a small piece of plastic against the
> clay; I used a plastic bottle cap. The ink left two dots on cap,
> forming a template. I tapped two small brads into the dots and cut
> them to about 1-2 mm high with a dremel.
>
> Or, you could remove and replace.
>
>
> Gus Schlachter
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2001 19:24:11 -0000
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Jump starting
I've got to jump in on this one. I can't understand what electrical
engineering principle could possibly impact the requirement to
connect the positive or the negative first, with respect to inrush
surges as the connection is made. It's a single circuit. Current flow
and resulting voltage sags/surges take a complete circuit, and will
happen whether Pos or Neg is hooked up first. The surge is completely
a function of the voltage offered (the battery) vs the load being
connected-to (the car's electrical system). Hooking up one side or
the other first makes no difference, no current flows until the final
connection is made.
The normal reason for connecting the positive first is that is less
likely that you will touch a hot (+) wire to ground by accident,
since the grounds aren't hooked up yet. Using jumper cables as an
example, if you were to connect the neg circuit first, and then
connect one end of the pos, and accidently drop the other one on the
car body, you'd get a short and lots of sparks. If you connect the
positive side first, later accidentally dropping the neg to part of
the car would have no effect other than completing the circuit.
Dave Swingle
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, srubano@xxxx wrote:
>
> By connecting the positive cable first THEN the negative cable, you
> eliminate/minimize any surge that is sent into the electrical
system
> of BOTH cars. I have seen countless amount of times people
installing
> new batteries into their car and connecting the ground first then
the
> positive lead and then wonder why all of their bulbs all burnt out
at
> the same time in their dash board or why their computer fried.
>
> Steve
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2001 22:39:39 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Jump starting
MY mistake, I left off the shorting out part.
It should have read "By connecting the positive cable first THEN the
negative cable, you eliminate/minimize any surge that is sent into
the electrical system of BOTH cars resulting from a short." NOT "By
connecting the positive cable first THEN the negative cable, you
eliminate/minimize any surge that is sent into the electrical system
of BOTH cars."
That's what happens when you leave the computer before finishing what
you type, then returning and sending it before proof reading it
before hitting the "send" button.
But whatever it may be, it's still a safety precaution to hook up the
positive first.
Good thing for proofreaders to pick up mistakes. :-)
Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxx> wrote:
> I've got to jump in on this one. I can't understand what electrical
> engineering principle could possibly impact the requirement to
> connect the positive or the negative first, with respect to inrush
> surges as the connection is made. It's a single circuit. Current
flow
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2001 19:35:09 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: : Re: A one off factory Delorean W/a SS frame (Was Delorean galvanized frames/
I think a while back someone one the list mentioned that Lotus had
all the DeLorean prototype cars destroyed in the early 1990's.
The twin turbo car I'm guessing that you're refering to is vin 501.
Last time I heard the car was for sale with a comple restoration
included from DMC Houston. So I have no idea as to it's condition. My
guess is it's still owned by the same man who acquired it at the
auction after DMC closed. I managed to dig the man's name up in an
article I have around here somewhere...
The prototype DeLorean from the Barret-Jackson was for sale at a
classic car dealership a while back. I don't remember the name of the
dealership, but it probably been sold by now.
-Robert
vin 6585
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, CBL302@xxxx wrote:
<SNIP>
> has/is the
> only Delorean that had a Stainless Steel Frame installed/authorized
> to be installed by JZD and Company,
<SNIP>
> ...14 Test Mules that Lotus Engineering had(the orange bodied
> fiberglass Deloreans as pictured in SSI(page 113)AND where are
> THOSE Deloreans
> Claude
> 000570
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 02:47:08 -0500
From: "J Rowe" <rowejj@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Fuel Pump
I have what could be a fairly dumb question. Whne you turn the key to the on
position should you here the fuel pump run for a couple of seconds like they do on
more modern cars or what? If I jump the rpm relay I can here ir run clear as day but
not when the car is running. If it should be running then what should I look for to get
it to run like it should? Thanks in advance........................Jason
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 18:08:39 EDT
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
Subject: Tucker Car Collection & Bowie British Car Day
June 23-23, 2001.
The 24th annual Bowie British Car day & tour of private Tucker Automobile
collection.
I need those who are planning to attend the collection and dinner afterwards,
to email me privately so that I can make dinner reservation. We decided to
dine on the exclusive Odyssey ship. The odyssey coasts along the Potomac
River during dinner. The entire "roof structure" of the ship is made of
glass, for impressive views of Washington DC's monuments and skyline.
Please email me if you are planning to attend. There are 5 owners scheduled
to attend.
Sincerely,
Mike Pack senatorpack(AT)cs.com
DOA 4743
MODERATOR NOTE: This is in Maryland near Baltimore.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 17:22:26 -0500
From: "B Benson" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Crappy acceleration...
One of the things Michael Loasby mentioned at Eurofest was the fact that
many design changes added weight to the car and the gear ratios were raised
to maintain gas mileage figures. The Lotus Esprits of the 80's used the same
transaxle with but with different gear ratios and the final drive gear
ratios from the Lotus would benefit the DeLorean. The DeLorean used a 3.44:1
final drive while the Lotus used a 3.88:1. Unfortunately the ratios for
first through fifth in the Lotus would be too high for the low powered
DeLorean. One thing that is obvious is that horsepower isn't the only area
the DeLorean would need adjusted to become a true performance car. On the
other hand, the higher final drive makes the DeLorean a great cruiser for
higher speed over the road trips.
Bruce Benson
> I have a stupid question. Why is the DeLorean so slow? I have an 81
> automatic, and I don't expect it to be a race car or anything, but the
> acceleration off the line is laughable I was thinking it might be the gear
ratio of
> 1st gear is better on the Golf for acceleration, but (unscientific
> observation) they seem feel relatively the same. >
> Thanks,
>
> Aaron King
> Kirkland, WA
> vin#1217
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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 21:38:06 EDT
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: galvanizing D frame?
In a message dated 6/8/01 3:15:09 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
hholtz467@xxxxxxxxx writes:
<< How tough would a Powder Coating be under normal driving conditions? >>
I just had my whole frame powdercoated, and I can say that it came out great!
I did think about having the frame galvanized before powdercoating, to
protect the frame from rust even more, but with all the talk about it
possibly warping under the high heat, turned me away from it. Definitely NOT
worth the risk. Hope that helps.
Later,
Nick
1852
<A HREF="" href="Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548</A>
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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 21:55:21 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: questions (was: convex side mirror update)
In getting ready to make the first ever DeLorean convex side mirror, I took
my OEM side mirror apart to make a good pattern. Now I have some questions:
The backing material (mounting surface) that holds the OEM mirror glass
obviously has been cut down from a larger piece meant for a different
application. Can anyone say what this was from?
Upon removing the mirror glass, there is a single screw in the center of the
mounting pad. I removed it, almost lost the washer that was under it, and
pulled it off. Underneath is a motorized unit held down with three screws.
Since the mounting pad was cut down from a larger mirror, obviously the
motor unit that it attaches to is also from another application. Can anyone
say what it crosses to?
I removed the three mounting screws to the motor unit and removed it. It is
still attached by the wires (no connectors in site to totally separate it
from the car.) I really don't need to disassemble it any further, but can
anyone say how this comes apart?
Since I had the motor unit in my hand, I thought now would be a good time to
clean & lubricate it. There is one black screw in the center which I
removed. This did nothing. The entire motor assembly (plastic clam shell
design) appears to be held together with plastic posts which are melted
through holes. It looks like it is not meant to ever be disassembled.
Comments anyone?
On both OEM mirror glasses, there are stains caused by air bubbles trapped
under the double sided tape. There appears to be no fix for this other than
replacing the mirror glass (which I intend to do anyway -- with convex
ones!) Has anyone else noticed such blemishes in their mirrors?
On both OEM mirrors, the mirror glass has sagged with age (the adhesive
didn't hold well) such that the lower edge of the glass drags on the bottom
of the outer housing making mirror adjustment difficult. My car has low
miles and has obviously never been stored outdoors for any extended length
of time. Despite this, the adhesive didn't hold very well. Has anyone had
similar problems? Maybe a previous owner stored my car in a very hot
garage.
I was able to remove the passenger mirror glass without breaking it. First,
the adhesive on mine didn't hold very well to begin with. Second, the
mounting pad is made of a flexible material (polypropylene?). I could reach
my fingers behind the mirror and flex the mounting pad back to release the
adhesive.
My side mirrors are the earlier style. (FYI, there were two versions of
side mirror housings. Early ones were up to VIN 5929 and the newer version
started with VIN 5930.) Can anyone say what is different about the two
versions?
So far I have found that on my '81, the mirror glasses are symmetrical from
side. I.e. taking the right side off and flipping it over fits over the
left side mirror exactly. Can anyone say if the dimensions of the mirror
glass is the same between the older and newer versions? I have been told
already that the mirror glass is the same and that it is the shape of the
mirror housing that is different. Does anyone agree with this or have a
comment?
The DeLorean mirror glass is the first modern car I have noticed that does
not have any etchings in the mirror's viewable area (model numbers, part
numbers, etc.) Are all DeLorean mirrors this way?
Come hell or high water, I'm going to make convex mirrors to fit the
DeLorean. If cutting them out on a somewhat medium scale is feasible, are
there any vendors out there who want to retail them? And if so, how much do
you think you can sell them for (without price gouging)? And how much would
you expect to buy them for wholesale? I'm in this as a hobby and am not
looking to get rich quick. I would rather sell many at a small profit
rather than a few at a large one. I'm not interested in doing much retail
if any, so if there are any vendors who are interested then speak up.
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 22:09:46 EDT
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: Tucker Car Collection & Bowie British Car Day
In a message dated 06/08/2001 8:20:10 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
senatorpack@xxxxxx writes:
<< MODERATOR NOTE: This is in Maryland near Baltimore. >>
This is in Maryland near Washington, DC.
If anyone needs directions please email me.
Sincerely,
Mike
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