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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 19 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: start problem
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
2. Brake Line WANTED-discontinued
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
3. RE: Delorean t shirts
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. RE: fuel pump
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. "Door Ajar" light on all the time...
From: "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: fuel pump
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
7. Re: "Door Ajar" light on all the time...
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: "Door Ajar" light on all the time...
From: theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx
9. VIN# 04483????
From: "Dan" <Danrc30@xxxxxxxxxxx>
10. RE: "Door Ajar" light on all the time...
From: "Fernando Dillard" <fdillard@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. "New" DeLorean
From: "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway@xxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Unusual Inertia Switch Malfunction
From: shirazcupala@xxxxxxxx
13. Vinylex did wonders for my louvers and other rubber, plastic, vinyl
From: shirazcupala@xxxxxxxx
14. GREAT SCOTT IT'S HOT
From: noflux@xxxxxxxxx
15. Re: "Door Ajar" Light
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: Brake Line WANTED-discontinued
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Air Intake - Flex Tube?
From: Shannon Yocom <ss@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Cleaning engine?
From: "ian" <ian@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. window felt replacement
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Sun, 03 Jun 2001 02:45:18 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: start problem
Your hard cold start is not the run-of-the-mill problem. When you
start cold the accumulater is not "used" and it starts hot so don't
start there or the check valve in the fuel pump. When cold the motor
uses the cold start valve and associated components. I would look for
trouble in the cold start system but it sounds like a control pressure
regulater to me.(That's also used to enrich the mixture on
start-up).Look over ALL of the vacuum hoses, a vacuum leak will wreck
the idle especially when cold.
On the subject of upgrades contact a Delorean vender for an upgrade
kit consisting of some relays and circuit breakers. If you talk to
them they will figure out what you have and what you need to order
depending on what may or may not have already been changed. They will
also be glad to help with your cold start problem and you will need
them anyway to order the parts. You may also consider getting an extra
oil filter and if it's been a long time or maybe you still have the
origional ignition parts you will want to at least change the spark
plugs and ignition wires.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Steve Bunnell" <dmcsteve@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi list, I've been away for a while. What's been going on? I have
a few questions for you experts...
>
> I'm having a starting problem with my D. I'm pretty sure its fuel
related and not electrical. I've been reading a lot of the back
issues and lord knows there are A LOT of issues on hot and cold start
problems! When cold my car usually starts right away, but it will
stall if I try to idle at a stop sign for the first minute or two of
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 02:01:38 EDT
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
Subject: Brake Line WANTED-discontinued
Hello,
Well I finally did it. I got my DeLorean running tonight at 1:45am. I
ended up pushing it home but that is another story...... I need the steel
brake line that runs along the rear passenger side trailing arm and hooks
into the brake caliper. This part is no longer available new so I thought I
would try the list. This is the last week of school and I really want to
take the D this week. If you have this part available contact me asap with a
price and I will pay for next day air shipping.
thanks list
David
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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 07:47:22 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Delorean t shirts
Steve Wynne, DeLorean Motor Company owns the rights to the name and trade
mark.
Contact him directly for permission. When I had asked the same question a
few years ago, he told me that as long as it was in good taste, it would not
be a problem. You should speak with Steve just in case there has been a
change.
Scott Mueller
DMCNEWS 002981
DOA 5031
-----Original Message-----
From: Christian Williams [mailto:delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2001 3:12 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] Delorean t shirts
The only
hesitation I have is that I don't know who owns the rights to the DMC
logo or the name "DeLorean".
If we can get over that hurdle, I can begin work right away.
-Christian
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 07:53:32 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: fuel pump
You may have some trash in the pump.
Remove the pump from the car completely. Spray the inside from both ends
with a lot of WD40 or equivalent to clean it out. Connect the pump to a 12V
power supply. If it still does not turn then reverse the polarity and try
to run it backwards.
Only run the pump long enough to establish that it turns. You do not want
to run it dry, that's why I say use WD40. Do not do this in the car around
the gas tank. If you create a spark around the gas tank, your problems will
multiply at a very rapid rate.
I have done this, and the pump has continued to work for a considerable
amount of time.
Scott Mueller
DMCNEWS 002981
DOA 5031
-----Original Message-----
From: Meyerleem@xxxxxx [mailto:Meyerleem@xxxxxx]
Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2001 6:00 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] fuel pump
Thanks for the help with my fuel problem. My pump did have power to it but
the intake line was split so it was drawing in lots of air. I believe this
must have burned out the pump because now it still has power to it and you
can feel it jerk if you're holding it but does'nt pump. I assume it needs a
new pump. The fuel pump that was in it was a Bosch #0580254957 will this
work
correctly in my car? does it make any difference that the car has twin
turbos?
Thanks Lee
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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 03 Jun 2001 14:09:33
From: "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: "Door Ajar" light on all the time...
Problem: The "Door Ajar" light in the instrument panel won't go off! Both
doors close correctly and both doors locks correctly. Yet, the light won't
go off.
I've never experienced this problem before, yet it is annoying having the
red light on when driving. I guess one could remove a wire from the door
switches, but I would like to have the problem fixed correctly. Why doesn't
the light go off?
Best wishes
Stian Birkeland
Norway
VIN # 06759
_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Sun, 03 Jun 2001 16:11:07 -0000
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: fuel pump
Lee, Your correct that if the pump runs out of fuel it will destroy
it's self. The pump not only lives on the out side in gas also on the
inside as well. The motor and all turn in gas. That's why I run
injector cleanor through the gas to help lubricate the fuel pump
inside as well. WD40 or other lubricant will help for a little while,
but once the bearings are scored, that's it. A defective fuel screen
will also add to the demise of the pump by picking up larger
particles than it can handle. Once this happens, it's not long before
it will leave you stranded. The 957 will handle the turbo just fine.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
.--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Meyerleem@xxxx wrote:
> Thanks for the help with my fuel problem. My pump did have power to
it but
> the intake line was split so it was drawing in lots of air. I
believe this
> must have burned out the pump because now it still has power to it
and you
> can feel it jerk if you're holding it but does'nt pump. I assume it
needs a
> new pump. The fuel pump that was in it was a Bosch #0580254957 will
this work
> correctly in my car? does it make any difference that the car has
twin turbos?
> Thanks Lee
> vin#1699
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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 12:11:27 -0400
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: "Door Ajar" light on all the time...
This happened to me to, and here was the cause: I installed a switch
in-line with fuse #10 to shut off the courtesy lights if I am to have the
door(s) open for extended period of times (like at a car show). Once, I
left the switch in the off position - and with the interior/front "dome"
light in the "on" position (but the light is off, due to the fuse switch),
the "door ajar" light would light up. The "door ajar" light goes out if I
turn "off" the dome light, or turn on the in-line fuse switch. I have not
traced the schematics to see if this is expected behavior or not, but it is
interesting, nonetheless.
-Hank #1619
----- Original Message -----
> Problem: The "Door Ajar" light in the instrument panel won't go off! Both
> doors close correctly and both doors locks correctly. Yet, the light won't
> go off.
>
> I've never experienced this problem before, yet it is annoying having the
> red light on when driving. I guess one could remove a wire from the door
> switches, but I would like to have the problem fixed correctly. Why
doesn't
> the light go off?
> Stian Birkeland
> VIN # 06759
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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 03 Jun 2001 17:03:59 -0000
From: theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: "Door Ajar" light on all the time...
Stian,
Check the door ajar light switches on both sides of the car &
make sure you have black rubber tips on them. If you don't,
the switch won't get pushed in all the way by the trim panel,
and the light won't go off. I had this exact same problem at
Ken's show in Cleveland last year and had to ask Warren.
As it turns out, when I got home, what did I find on my garage
floor, but the missing rubber tip! Warren said these were
called "vaccuum caps" and are available at any auto parts store.
John Yeoman
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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 03 Jun 2001 17:56:11 -0000
From: "Dan" <Danrc30@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: VIN# 04483????
If the owner of Vin#04483 is on this list, please e-mail me directly
at Danrc30(at)hotmail.com. Thank you.
---Dan
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 10:58:34 -0700
From: "Fernando Dillard" <fdillard@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: "Door Ajar" light on all the time...
Hi,
It might be as simple as checking your ground connections to the door
switches
or you might have a bad switch.
you could possibly try swapping the connections between the two switches on
the driver's
side to rule out a bad switch on that side. Unfortunately you don't have
two switches on the passengers
side to do the same thing there.
Fernando
VIN 10811
----- Original Message -----
From: Stian
Birkeland
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: 6/3/01 8:48:14 AM
Subject: [DML] "Door Ajar" light on all the
time...
Problem: The "Door Ajar" light in the instrument panel won't go off!
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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 03 Jun 2001 18:13:15
From: "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: "New" DeLorean
When I drove to Eurofest, I took the road to Liverpool for a much needed
torsion bar adjustment and also lowering of the car. The work was performed
by Paul Windsor at Wingray Autos. It was a pleasure to be there, we were
taken good care of by James Espey who was there at the time, and of course
Paul also. The DeLorean was in his shop for 2 days.
If you have been considering the update from DMC Houston, namely the
lowering springs (I think Chris Parnham sells them too) + the new shock
absorbers, I can tell you that this mod make the DeLorean a complete new and
different car! It feels more secure and modern!
In other words, this is the way the DeLorean should have been built in the
first place. A neat addtion also, is the look of the car. Some of you
attending Eurofest might have noticed some DeLoreans were just too much
lowered. With the setup the DeLorean is lowered on all 4 wheels, it looks
good, and the shocks really make a difference. Previous I was able to place
two fists between the front tyre and the fender, which tells you something
about how high the DeLorean is in the front and what handling this setup
leads to.
Now, when driving over a speedbump or "sleeping policeman" with the new
setup, it does not sound like the engine fell off (you know the sound I'm
sure). Also, at high speeds, the shaking and rattling like a plane trying
unsuccessfully to take off is gone! The performance is great, and my next
long-term project will be the engine upgrade.
Mike Loasby drove my car 3 times around the test track, (once with me as
passenger, and the other two with Alan Hayward as passenger). He was
impressed with the new springs and shocks and the car's nice handling.
Once again, thanks to every member of the DOC UK who helped out making the
event possible. Thanks to Mark for letting me drive many laps around the
test track, thanks to Chris P. for the "Mr. Sheen" bottle!, and thanks to
Robert Lamrock who organized an excellent event. Looking forward to the next
one!
Best wishes
Stian B.
Norway
VIN # 06759
_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Sun, 03 Jun 2001 18:41:39 -0000
From: shirazcupala@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Unusual Inertia Switch Malfunction
I had an interesting thing happen a few weeks ago that I'll share as
FYI and ask for your advice on.
I drive my D every day. One morning I went to start it and it just
wouldn't start. Kept turning over but never catching. After a day
and a half of worrying but not really even moving the car, I finally
remembered to check on the intertia switch. Well the plunger was
down, BUT one of the wires was disconnected! When I reconnected the
wire the car operated perfectly. Of course my switch is in the
original location near the lambda counter.
So the moral is if your switch is in that location, be sure you can't
accidentally disconnect the wires by kicking it or moving the floor
mat accidentally. Also, if your car turns over but won't start and
the plunger seems fine, double check the connection to the intertia
switch.
Now for my question. If I pull up the plunger manually to try to trip
it on purpose to test it, nothing happens. I mean the car will start
or continues to run just fine. Given the above this is wierd to me.
I assume this means that my intertia switch is busted, but I just
wanted to check if this is the behavior that a busted one exhibits.
thanks,
shiraz
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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 03 Jun 2001 18:53:33 -0000
From: shirazcupala@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Vinylex did wonders for my louvers and other rubber, plastic, vinyl
My car was a Phoenix car before I got it. Much cracking and fading
everywhere. My advice is stay away from cars that have lived in high
heat. I have learned the hard way both on cosmetic and mechanical
issues.
So, my louvers WERE so faded out I thought I'd never recover them. I
tried "Black Magic" but it wore off so quickly it just wasn't worth
it. I finally got my bottle of Vinylex (the same folks that make
Lexol). Well, this stuff is fantastic. Two months ago I used it on
my louvers. Against the reco of the instructions I was generous in
application because the louvers were so badly faded and dried out. I
have not touched them since and they still retain the blackness.
Further, I used the stuff on the black vertical "vents" just behind
the doors. Those used to go back to grey within just days. Those
too still are black. So then I used the stuff on my interior. I
haven't touched up since that application two months ago. Same on my
exterior trim lines. The one area where it didn't last as well was
the tires. They are still better than when I've used Armor All or
other things. For tires, just because of the extreme wear/heat,
anything will require repeated application. I can live with that.
I rarely make product recommendations because I rarely find somthing
that I like enough to put my name behind recommending it. Well this
stuff is incredible. As you all know, Armor All just makes things
worse. This Vinylex WORKS! Since I am not willing to promote any
individual retailer, you can just do a search on the name and you'll
be able to find online sellers for it. I've never seen it in a store
here in Seattle.
As a related aside. Lexol (the stuff for Leather by the same
company) has so far been only marginally satisfactory. Better than
Armor All for sure on the leather, but not the perfect solution they
make it out to be. Many web references I've seen recommend it.
However, I'm anxious to try out a product called Leatherique. I
understand from many web posts that Rolls Royce / Bentley owners
clubs along with a few other similar caliber clubs swear by this
stuff. Has anyone used this stuff? What are your thoughts on it?
Versus Lexol?
thanks,
shiraz
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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 03 Jun 2001 19:40:03 -0000
From: noflux@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: GREAT SCOTT IT'S HOT
Hello everyone,
I just got my AC up and running today and I had been using it. The
temp today was about 87f. I went for a drive (about 20 miles) and
when I got home I was in the driveway and I had my car idling for
about 4 min with the AC on. ( I got busy talking with my dad)
Then I heard a big splash on the ground at the rear of the car below
the plastic header bottle (Plastic Overflow Bottle) . I noticed
coolant on the ground, them my temp climbed up to about 250 give or
take. So I shut my car off and scratched my head, and headed for the
DML.
Does anyone have any idea what I have going on here? Also what do I
need to do to fix, correct this problem so It doesn't happen again?
Thank for any help
God Bless
1982 DMC DEC-81 Build
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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 03 Jun 2001 22:49:22 +0200
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: "Door Ajar" Light
Stian wrote:
> Problem: The "Door Ajar" light in the instrument panel
> won't go off! Both doors close correctly and both doors
> locks correctly. Yet, the light won't go off.
Do your interior light work? I have experienced something similar on my car when
the #12 fuse is out (I now have a switch for this). Somehow there is some sort
of "feedback" causing the light to light with this fuse removed. It doesn't make
any sense because of the diodes in that particular circuit, but putting the fuse
back in (or flicking the switch to "on"), makes the light behave the way it is
supposed to be. Maybe yours is the same, but since it's a DeLorean probably not ;-)
I've spent the last week working out several "bugs" and I must say it sometimes
looks as if they were looking for exotic solutions instead of systems that were
proven to be reliable.
Don't get me wrong: I LOVE my car AND working on it, but soem things really DO
seem stupid. The Angle Drive and Power Window system for example, or what about
the mode switch using vacuum???
On that last one; what's wrong with bowden cables? I like to be able to
determine the amount of airflow and the division between the vents myself. On
our DeLoreans you can only select the amount by varying the speed, the division
between footwell, windows and vents is predetermined...
Anyway, who cares; I still enjoy driving it, even with (or maybe just because
of) all its' little stupidities or funny habits (like a tachometer that allways
rests at 2000 rpm ;-)
Enjoying the stainless,
even though I still do not know how fast I'm driving,
JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
check out the Delorean-Files at:
http://www.deloreanfiles.nl/
------------------------------
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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 20:59:01 -0400
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Brake Line WANTED-discontinued
I have the brake line for you. I will just charge you what I got it for.
Give me a few days to verify it is the correct side.
Joseph
Vin 2850
----- Original Message -----
From: <Delorean17@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2001 2:01 AM
Subject: [DML] Brake Line WANTED-discontinued
> Hello,
> Well I finally did it. I got my DeLorean running tonight at 1:45am.
I
> ended up pushing it home but that is another story...... I need the steel
> brake line that runs along the rear passenger side trailing arm and hooks
> into the brake caliper. This part is no longer available new so I thought
I
> would try the list. This is the last week of school and I really want to
> take the D this week. If you have this part available contact me asap
with a
> price and I will pay for next day air shipping.
>
> thanks list
> David
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 18:01:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shannon Yocom <ss@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Air Intake - Flex Tube?
Why not use something smooth like PVC pipe instead of flex tube for the air intake? It would cut down unwanted airflow turbulance. I currently am using it for "ram air" in my car (not a D) and it is even close to the exhaust manifold with no signs of wear from the heat.
Besides having a smooth place for air flow to your engine the least amounts of bends and turns in the pipe help gain power. Any little bit helps!
Shannon
VIN# Not Yet!
_____________________________________________________________
YourName@xxxxxxxxxxxx -- it's free from <a href="" href="http://www.delorean.com">http://www.delorean.com"> DeLorean Motor Company</a>!
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 09:00:31 +0800
From: "ian" <ian@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Cleaning engine?
Hi DMLers,
I'm switching engines in my right-hand-drive DeLorean, using the 28k mile
unit from my parts-DMC. Has anyone any recommendations for cleanig the
aluminium engine block to get her sparkling again!
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Cheers, IAN
***************
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Message: 19
Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 18:32:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: window felt replacement
Hi,
I simply refuse to believe that there is no aftermarket fix for the shoddy
DeLorean window felt. I just replaced the felt for both door windows last
weekend, and today the passenger side felt has already come unglued at the
front side of the window. I saw a post in the archives asking if anyone
had created a rubber or a better felt replacement, but could not find an
answer to the question. I live in San Jose, California, so I imagine that
the problem is due to heat.
Also, is there any way to view the archives in a threaded format as
opposed to digest format?
-Christian "Window Felt" Williams
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