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There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Oil filter
From: "Lynn Metz" <metzlynn@xxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Low Voltage
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Current-rating brakelight-switch
From: Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
4. Re: Low Voltage
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
5. Re: Electrical Glitch, is this bad??? (quite long)
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
6. Re: Hood Problems
From: shirazcupala@xxxxxxxx
7. speed and hood question
From: "Kurt Cenin" <markurbec@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: seeking audio advice
From: "H. Julian Wainthrop, IV" <smeghead79@xxxxxxxx>
9. Front End Recall Kit
From: dmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
10. Re: Twin turbos
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
11. Re: Electrical Glitch, is this bad??? (quite long)
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
12. Re: Top 10 Questions from New Owner
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
13. Re: Electrical Glitch, is this bad??? (quite long)
From: shirazcupala@xxxxxxxx
14. Re. Audio Advice
From: Joe Palatinus <jpalatinus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: Electrical Glitch, is this bad??? (quite long)
From: shirazcupala@xxxxxxxx
16. Re: Front pads & rotors
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
17. DeLorean Canada
From: "Kevin Rawlings" <delorean@xxxxxxxxxx>
18. RE: Water Pump and A/C Idler bearings
From: "Arnie Brandon" <Arnie@xxxxxxxx>
19. Re: Current-rating brakelight-switch
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
20. Re: SELL A DELOREAN
From: theamdman@xxxxxxxxx
21. Re: speed and hood question
From: "Payne" <bpayne@xxxxxxxxxx>
22. RE: Wide Black Sidestripes
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
23. Re: speed and hood question
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething@xxxxxxxxxxx>
24. Re: Current-rating brakelight-switch
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
25. Re: speed and hood question
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 14:38:21 -0700
From: "Lynn Metz" <metzlynn@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Oil filter
Ok, All I want to know is what filter does DMC Joe use on his 260k-plus
DeLorean??? If I get 260k out of my car, I will be happy. JOE???
Brian 16584
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 07:04:06 -0400
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Low Voltage
> I still worry about it though as I cruise through traffic with AC on.
> I kind of like Hank's little meter.
Hey - thanks. That's exactly why I built this meter. Since a bunch of
people asked for details of my little meter, I've put together a webpage
with a parts list with photos and basic instructions for assembly.
http://www.eskin.net/voltmeter.html
If enough people are interested (say two or more), I'd be happy to go to my
very local supplier and put together little kits with most of the necessary
parts (panel meter, 2 resistors, project box, switch, battery connector,
mounting hardware).
-Hank Eskin #1619
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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 10:41:08 -0000
From: Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Current-rating brakelight-switch
Hello again,
It seems my troubles from last evening were really a glitch;
I can't reproduce the situation anymore... (see msg.16938)
This makes me even more curious as to what could have caused this...
I have another question now: I plan on installing a 3rd brakelight on
my car, I'm not that fond of the LED-type since they seem to break down
really easily... I found a nice flat one that could mount under the
topmost louvre-slat, but then it wouldn't be symmetrical.
Installing two -one on either side of the center-reinforcement- would
be the solution.
Now here's my problem: this type of brakelight has 7 5W bulbs in it, if
I install 2 of them that would add up to 70W of extra "draw" on the
system. I don't think this is a real problem since this isn't a
constant drain (only when you brake), but I'd really like to know if
the switch could handle this kind of current.
In the standard setup it has to cope with "only" 84W = 7A @ 12V,
installing an extra 70W of lights would allmost double this to 12,8A
@12V... Can the switch at the pedal handle this, or should I put in an
extra relay and power the extra lights straight from the battery
through a fuse and this relay?
This would amount to a lot of extra wiring... :-(
What are your opinions on this? I really want the extra brake-light,
since our cars are so low you can't realy see them through a car that's
behind you. The brakelights are even lower, so they are invisible to
any car behind the one that's on your tail!
Thanks in advance,
Jan van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
Check out the DeLorean-Files at:
http://www.deloreanfiles.nl/
--------------------------------
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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 08:00:03 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Low Voltage
Before going through all of the labor involved in removing the alternator I think it would be wiser to follow the troubleshooting suggestions from David Teitelbaum. As David mentioned there are several common sources for low voltage readings especially in the area of "grounds".
PS: If your DeLorean was previously equiped with a Ducellier alternator make sure you have connected the D+ connection properly.
DMC Joe
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2001 9:57 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Low Voltage
Bobby, The alternator is the source of all the power and voltage, If your
experiencing a low voltage problem, then I would take the alternator back. It
more than likely has a bad regulator. I you want to see what they should do.
Look at my web site under talk & View. The alternators put out normally
14.5Volts +/- with 150 amps average. What did you have turned on when you
took the reading.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
Dallas/Forney, Texas
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 08:14:21 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Electrical Glitch, is this bad??? (quite long)
GROUND! GROUND! GROUND!
Anytime you switch on an accessory which in turn affects other electrical components it is usually caused by a faulty ground connection.
DMC Joe
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: Jan van de Wouw
To: DMC-News
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2001 7:03 PM
Subject: [DML] Electrical Glitch, is this bad??? (quite long)
Hello everyone,
I had to use my High beams to signal someone from the opposit direction, as I
did this, my Radio cut off, the Tach mad a full 360 spin and the engine
heldback, followed immediately by a backfire (logical I guess, probably no spark...).
As I didn't trust this I tried the Highs several times more and it did exactly
the same, voltage dropped to about 8 Volt, then rose back to 11, at this point
the radio came back on and the high beams stayed on as they should, releasing
the switch only made the voltage go back up to 13, signalling made it drop again...
JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
check out the Delorean-Files at:
http://www.deloreanfiles.nl/
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 05:28:53 -0000
From: shirazcupala@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Hood Problems
I have this problem as well. You need to move the hood down further
towards the front fascia. There are 2 hinges for the hood. You
slightly loosen the 4 bolts on each hinge attaching to the hood. Then
close the hood but don't latch it. To do that I layed a folded up
towel over the latch and wipers to cushion the latch. Then you gently
tap or push the hood down until you get proper alignment in the
front. Then _gently_ open the hood again and tighten up the bolts.
You may or may not need to also detach the struts at the hood. You
must have another person if you're going to detach the struts, and
it's good to have an extra hand for the whole thing if you can.
On my car I ran into an additional problem. One of my hinges is bent
up at a higher angle than the other preventing that side from going
as far forward. So one side aligns well in the front and the other
has extra gap. I tried bending it on the car (after removing the hood
completely) but was afraid to force it and break the attachment point
on the fiberglass. One day I'll remove the hinge itself (when
removing the facia) and then bend it for proper fit. Oh well.
shiraz
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Willie Mack <wmack@xxxx> wrote:
>
>
> Has anyone else had any problems with the hood hitting the
windshield wipers
> when you try to close it. Does anyone have any suggestions for
fixing this
> problem?
>
> Thanks
> Willie Mack
> Vin 5043
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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 06:11:51 -0500
From: "Kurt Cenin" <markurbec@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: speed and hood question
I have read alot of stuff concerning the acceleration of DeLoreans. I have heard everything from 8 seconds to 4.5 seconds (0-60). Which is it?
Also, what Deloreans were made with the hoods with the grooves?
Thanks
Dan
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 10:28:27 -0700
From: "H. Julian Wainthrop, IV" <smeghead79@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: seeking audio advice
Todd -
I'm sure the people at Crutchfield will tell you this, but the more
efficient speakers you have, the less raw power you need to have coming
from the head unit. Assuming you have good speakers, you won't need any
extra poweramps for your purposes. I have some Pioneer speakers in my
car (they're old, and I forget exactly what they are now) and my head
unit only puts out 45 watts per channel. It's more than enough.
If your concern with mp3s is playing a lot of music at once, Nakamichi
makes a unit which is actually an in-dash six (maybe five?) disc
changer. (Other companies probably have the same system, but Nak is the
only one I've dealt with as they're my favourite.) I'm pretty sure it
has a digital input on it so you could hook up your external minidisc or
mp3 player if you want. Then again, if you want to spend the money on an
mp3 compatible unit, go ahead. ;) Send me pictures when you're done --
I'd love to see how you did. :)
By the way, as a general note to the list, if I show up at the Houston
show not driving a DeLorean, will they let me in? :P
Farrar Hudkins
New Orleans, Louisiana
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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 15:31:05 -0000
From: dmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Front End Recall Kit
I have just looked at the DeLorean.com web page and have realised
that I don't have the front end recall kit.
What does the recall kit do and it it highly important?. also is it
expensive or hard to fit?
Thanks in advance for your advice
Regards
James RG
England UK
P.S. Tha Ashomia Back to the future models which are selling for
approximatly $35 on e-bay have been re-released by the manufacturer,
just thought you might be interested if you were thinking of buying
one from e-bay.
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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 06:51:52 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Twin turbos
Turbo Manifold Co. does not have a web site, they can be reached at 800 449-1248.
DMC Joe
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: Meyerleem@xxxxxx
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2001 8:55 PM
Subject: [DML] Twin turbos
Does anyone have a web address for turbo manifold co. ?
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 14:08:43 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Electrical Glitch, is this bad??? (quite long)
The first place to start is as, I recommended to Low Voltage, is to
check and clean the ground connections. Your case sounds a little more
obvious as the troubles started when you used your lights. The ground
connection is dirty so all of the voltage from the lights that was to
go into the ground instead backed up into your other circuits
effectively "ungrounding" them. The first connection to suspect is the
one on the frame alongside the left front wheel. It is easy to get to
if you remove the wheel first. Whike you are in there lubricate the
angle drive.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Jan van de Wouw <Jan@xxxx> wrote:
> Hello everyone,
>
> Since my daily driver (an old Ford Escort) has a fuel leak I decided
to take my
> DeLorean to the movies this evening, everything went fine untill I
got halfway
> back home...
> I had to use my High beams to signal someone from the opposit
direction, as I
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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 09:08:03 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Top 10 Questions from New Owner
Answers to 1, 2, & 8 can be found in your owners manual and workshop manual.
To answer questions number 4 & 5 go to http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/3755/stainless.html
The answer to question # 10 is, the hose you are describing is the clutch fluid line, if it is black in color you will need to install the stainless steel up grade http://store.yahoo.com/dsvstore/test1.html to prevent damage to your transmission.
DMC Joe
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: Doug Hornsby
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2001 7:49 PM
Subject: [DML] Top 10 Questions from New Owner
MODERATOR NOTE - Most of these answers are at:
http://www.dmcnews.com/faq/faq.htm
http://www.dmcnews.com/techmain.htm
http://www.dmcnews.com/files.html
===============================================
Greetings: I now owe 2912. Here are some dumb owner
Qs
1 - What type of oil do you prefer.
2 - Should you add oil if on a cool engine the oil
level is between the two nick marks on the dip stick.
3 - What air pressure do you run in front and rear.
4 - What is the best thing to clean the stainless
steel.
5 - With what do you wax or seal the stainless steel.
6 - Do you like Armoral for the interior (except the
steering wheel)
7 - How do you wash the car. ie. one should avoid
spraying a hose or high pressure wand over or into the
engine... right??
8 - Do you change oil filters with every oil change
and air cleaner too, or every other change. And do
you change oil every 3,000 miles or more.
9 - What do you use to blacken up the exterior parts,
like the baskets and bumper/fascia. Armoral or what?
10 - There is a hose about the size of a #2 pencil
coming off of the inside of the front driver's side
wheel, visible under the car which appears to access
the brakes !!??) It hangs down too much and I fear it
will catch on a piece of road trash. What is it.
Thanks for responding.
New-to-me #2912, August 81.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 15:57:20 -0000
From: shirazcupala@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Electrical Glitch, is this bad??? (quite long)
Jan,
I had a similar type problem with the alarm going off randomly like
that or the whole car just shutting down completely either while
parked or in the middle of driving. Then working just fine at other
points. My mechanic traced it to a VERY loose battery connection
behind the panel directly below the rear window. You have to remove
that carpeted piece to check it. He said it was very loose. It's on
the passenger side and is the connection that goes thru the firewall
into the electrical box on the passenger side of the engine
compartment. Tightening that up fixed all my electrical problems. I
just wish I had found it myself because it cost a bundle to have my
mechanic find just a loose connection and tighten it up. I now have
learned from some PNDC club members that this is a common loose
connection on DeLoreans.
shiraz
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Jan van de Wouw <Jan@xxxx> wrote:
> Hello everyone,
>
> So, what do I know?
> - the car seems OK, since everything works now.
> - my alarmsystem works the way it is supposed to.
> - the battery connections are in place and firmly seated
> - I HATE the sound of my siren and makes my ears hurt ;-)
> - The tach can spin over 360 degrees without breaking...
> - there is SOMETHING WRONG, but I don't know what or why!!!
>
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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 17:55:28 -0400
From: Joe Palatinus <jpalatinus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re. Audio Advice
I recently upgraded my audio system significantly and so I thought I might
share with you my setup. DMC joe installed 5 and 1/4 speakers in the rear
wall and disconnected the blown out stock rear speakers. I have had an
ALPINE cva 130 (with a motorized in dash LCD display installed) This
certainly does not look stock but this is my second D' so it does not have
to. It fits great, but the screem blocks the center AC vents. This
display is connected to a GPS receiver which I mounted on the center of the
rear parcel shelf for easy GPS cd change. I initially had a changer
mounted here but it was to cumbersome. The Alpine LCD connection box and
amp I have hidden behind the rear shelf next to the fire wall. This
ofcourse left no place to play music CDs, so I removed my Glove box and
placed my 6 disc digital CD changer in the glove box hole comming out of
the dash. The nice part about this is it is all reversable, I could put my
glove box back in pretty quick, but I never used it much anyway. The whole
shibang cost less than $2000 (I bought the screen as a display model)
My next plan to to put a G4 cude in the center console, connect it to the
Alpine screen and have it connected to an Air port card. This way I could
transfer mp3 files from my home computer to my car over radio waves. I
could also play DVD movies in the car through the computer, but this is
farther in the future for me.
Cya Later
Joe Palatinus
VIN 17167 6808
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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 15:56:50 -0000
From: shirazcupala@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Electrical Glitch, is this bad??? (quite long)
Jan,
I had a similar type problem with the alarm going off randomly like
that or the whole car just shutting down completely either while
parked or in the middle of driving. Then working just fine at other
points. My mechanic traced it to a VERY loose battery connection
behind the panel directly below the rear window. You have to remove
that carpeted piece to check it. He said it was very loose. It's on
the passenger side and is the connection that goes thru the firewall
into the electrical box on the passenger side of the engine
compartment. Tightening that up fixed all my electrical problems. I
just wish I had found it myself because it cost a bundle to have my
mechanic find just a loose connection and tighten it up. I now have
learned from some PNDC club members that this is a common loose
connection on DeLoreans.
shiraz
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Jan van de Wouw <Jan@xxxx> wrote:
> Hello everyone,
>
> Since my daily driver (an old Ford Escort) has a fuel leak I
decided to take my
> DeLorean to the movies this evening, everything went fine untill I
got halfway
> back home...
> I had to use my High beams to signal someone from the opposit
direction, as I
> did this, my Radio cut off, the Tach mad a full 360 spin and the
engine
> heldback, followed immediately by a backfire (logical I guess,
probably no spark...).
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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 19:16:06 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Front pads & rotors
I know the pads are from a 1976 Capri, not sure about the rotors
though...
-Robert
vin 6585
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Meyerleem@xxxx wrote:
> Are the front brake pads and rotors on my 1981 car
inter-changeable with
> some other make and model? I hate to be cheap but over a hundred $
seems
> pretty excessive for a rotor.
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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 20:04:53 -0000
From: "Kevin Rawlings" <delorean@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DeLorean Canada
Yes! Triumph! After two years of struggle with Yahoo! they finally
deemed my site good enough to list it! Feel free to check it out at
http://www.geocities.com/deloreancanada/
Which brings me to another thing. Information on, or from, Canadian
DeLorean owners is incredibly hard to find. I KNOW that you Canadian
owners exist, I've e-mailed a couple of you! If it's not too much
trouble, PLEASE e-mail me picture(s) of your car (with or without
yourself in the picture) to delorean(at)canada.com, with some vital
stats like name, location, etc.
Thanks,
Kevin
DRIVE STAINLESS
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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 09:35:18 -0700
From: "Arnie Brandon" <Arnie@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Water Pump and A/C Idler bearings
Walt, your are just kidding us re oiling that little hole in the water pump,
right? If you are not kidding, you are totally WROMG.
Arnie
-----Original Message-----
From: Walter [mailto:Whalt@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2001 2:11 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] Water Pump and A/C Idler bearings
Jim,
I didn't use any sealant on the large o-ring gasket (the one that falls out
when you take the bracket loose that holds the idler bearings.) Since the
gasket and whole area were dry (no oil residues) I figure that the gasket is
only to stop dust from getting in there.
For removing the old bearings from the pulleys, I put each pulley over a
partially open large shop vice and hammered the bearings out using a large
1/2" drive socket that fit the closest. >From what I have read in the DML
archives, this seems to be the established way to do it. Oh, before you
drive the bearings out, you need to remove the snap rings. I used snap ring
pliers.
When you put it back together, beware that the pictorial diagram in the
parts manual is wrong. It don't fit together that way. I hope you took
notes when you took it apart. When you are done, make sure the belts all
line up properly. At a DeLorean show I saw one guy's car with the pulley
bracket put on wrong so that the belts were misaligned by 1/4" or so. Doh!
I have never gotten into a DeLorean water pump (yet) but one thing to
mention that I don't think I have seen in any of the archives yet is that
there is a little oil hole on the top of the pump just behind the pulley.
The pump should last longer if a few drops of oil are put in that hole on
rare occasion -- especially if the car has been in storage for a few years.
Walt Tampa, FL
Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 20:33:57 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Current-rating brakelight-switch
The 3rd brake light that is on my car is mounted on the top of the
highest louver. It has 4 bulbs inside, although I have no idea of what
the bulbs rating is. The unit came from an F-body car with a rear
glass hatch, a firebird if I remember correctly. The unit is slim
enough that it doesn't go above the roof line. But since it was made
to mount onto a glass surface, it comes with a rubber gasket of sorts
that will allow it to mount snugly to the louvers. The unit looks
stock, but since it is mount on top of the louver, it doesn't have
that odd looking "gap" that appears from the center support blocking
the lights. With 4 lights the unit is VERY bright. Anything over the 4
would probably be overkill...
The unit is connected into the brake light circuit by way of having
the wires run down thru the hollow area in the top of the rear quarter
panel. Then is drops down right behind the rear tail lamps and is
spliced in. It's been a year now since the installation of the 3rd
brake light, and the switch that controls everything is just fine. But
the extra lights do create a power drain when the motor is idling.
Stop and go traffic isn't too bad, but long dark hills do seem to take
their toll. Especially with the high beams on. When going down steep
twisting grades, I usually engine brake most of the way down to keep
my lights bright (granted though I have a 20 year old alternator with
upgraded 60/40 & 50 watt head lights and other accessories running at
the time). You may have different results with power drains then I do,
or even none at all. But the brake switch should be ok to handle the
extra load.
-Robert
vin 6585
p.s. I've never heard of LED lamps having a high failure rate in
automovtive applications. But for my brake lights I have been thinking
about neon...
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Jan@xxxx wrote:
<SNIP>
>Now here's my problem: this type of brakelight has 7 5W bulbs in it,
>if
> I install 2 of them that would add up to 70W of extra "draw" on the
> system. I don't think this is a real problem since this isn't a
> constant drain (only when you brake), but I'd really like to know if
> the switch could handle this kind of current.
<SNIP>
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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 22:44:44 -0000
From: theamdman@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: SELL A DELOREAN
I am replying to my previous message about selling the delorean.. as
I said we are desperate so the price is going to be about 15,500 and
that may even be a little negotiable... please anyone that may be
interested let them know I would like to sell this as soon as
possible.. remember we ahve 22,000 in it... we only want 15,500
thats a big loss,
please email me directly if interested amdman@xxxxxxxxxx
Frank
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Frank Blah <theamdman@xxxx> wrote:
> Ok Guys,
>
> I am in desperate need of selling my Delorean
> because I need the cash. We have had the car about a
> year and a half it has 63,285 Miles on it its an 82
> Model year, grey leather interior, the stainless steel
> is in perfect condition, and the engine was just
> worked on 2 weeks ago, the fuel system was flushed,
> fuel pump replaced, all normal maintanance was done on
> it (Oil change, etc.) we bought the car for $15,000 a
> year and a half ago. we put $7,000 into it with
> various engine repairs, window repairs, a/c repairs
> and upgrades and other details. All I am asking is
> for what we put into it $22,000 please tell anyone
> about it that is interested in a delorean that is in
> top of the line condition. We will negotiate on the
> price to some extent, but as I said that is what we
> have in it.
>
>
> Thanks,
> Frank
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
> http://auctions.yahoo.com/
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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 18:00:16 -0700
From: "Payne" <bpayne@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: speed and hood question
If you're able to get your hands on some of the old articles, most of the
tests came up with 9.5-10.5 sec. 0-60 time for the manual transmission car.
I can't personally confirm this, has anyone else tried?
As for the hood grooves, the '81 model year cars had them. Mine also has
the gas flap on the hood, which I understand they stopped in the last part
of the model year.
payne
2975
> I have read alot of stuff concerning the acceleration of DeLoreans. I have
heard everything from 8 seconds to 4.5 seconds (0-60). Which is it?
>
> Also, what Deloreans were made with the hoods with the grooves?
>
>
> Thanks
> Dan
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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 08:40:36 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Wide Black Sidestripes
IMHO, the stripes are ugly. If your stainless is dull it may be time to
wash it.
<SNIP>
1982. The other two are jazzy as well. No more dull sided DeLoreans!
<SNIP>
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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 22:38:51
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: speed and hood question
Kurt,
I can for sure answer the grooved hood Question. They were the 81 model.
The Gas flap hood was early '81. I believe but don't quote me that 8 seconds
is the accelereration for a non turbo engine.
Ryan.
>From: "Kurt Cenin" <markurbec@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: [DML] speed and hood question
>Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 06:11:51 -0500
>
>I have read alot of stuff concerning the acceleration of DeLoreans. I have
>heard everything from 8 seconds to 4.5 seconds (0-60). Which is it?
>
>Also, what Deloreans were made with the hoods with the grooves?
>
>
>Thanks
>Dan
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
>www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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>
>
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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 19:42:24 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Current-rating brakelight-switch
You are right in being concerned about the added load. IMHO I prefer
the LED lights. I have installed 2, 1 on each side of the center rib
of the rear sunshade as high as possible on the underside. It looks
factory and I did it with double-stick tape so I can remove it as
there are no holes. LED's draw very little current but you should fuse
the wire where you tap off of the brake light circuit so if there was
to be a short at least you still have the left and right tail
stoplights! I ran my wire along the right rear pontoon into the right
tail light wiring with an in-line fuse. The ground is attached to a
bracket under the rear plastic valence strip. The LEDs are very bright
and give off little heat as opposed to ordinary bulbs which if you
kept your foot on the brake (like in heavy traffic) could wind up
melting the plastic housing.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Jan@xxxx wrote:
> Hello again,
>
> It seems my troubles from last evening were really a glitch;
> I can't reproduce the situation anymore... (see msg.16938)
> This makes me even more curious as to what could have caused this...
>
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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 17:42:21 -0400 (EDT)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: speed and hood question
On Tue, 1 May 2001, Kurt Cenin wrote:
> I have read alot of stuff concerning the acceleration of DeLoreans. I
> have heard everything from 8 seconds to 4.5 seconds (0-60). Which is
> it?
8 seconds would be optimistic. With 130HP and 2700 pounds, the DeLorean's
acceleration is more economy car than muscle car. The two most common
numbers in reviews at the time were 8.5 seconds and 10.5 seconds. It's
fast enough to get out of its own way, but you aren't going to win any
drag races.
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