Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
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To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. seeking audio advice
From: webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
2. Re: Three questions and a fun project
From: "Sal celeste" <Rustproof@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Wide Black Sidestripes
From: Dee Moats <Dee-Moats@xxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: re: State Farm
From: Dee Moats <Dee-Moats@xxxxxxxxxx>
5. Low Voltage
From: "BDM" <bmims@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. DeLorean Body Kit & Door Rubber
From: dmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
7. Re: temp sending unit wiring
From: at88mph@xxxxxxxxx
8. Re: Water Pump and A/C Idler bearings
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
9. Young Ladies and DeLoreans [was Pic of the Month]
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Water Pump and A/C Idler bearings
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
11. Re: seeking audio advice
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
12. Shipping a car from the US?
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Electrical Glitch, is this bad??? (quite long)
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Low Voltage
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: Carpet Adhesive
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Front pads & rotors
From: Meyerleem@xxxxxx
17. Re: Young Ladies and DeLoreans [was Pic of the Month]
From: "Jake" <jkampho@xxxxxxxx>
18. Twin turbos
From: Meyerleem@xxxxxx
19. Re: Low Voltage
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
20. Door Ajar Light/Voltmeter/CD Player
From: theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx
21. Re: Carpet Adhesive
From: mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
22. Re: Low Voltage
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
23. Re: Low Voltage
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
24. RE: dents
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
25. RE:Rear Rotor Disc Removal Question
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 04:04:23 -0000
From: webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: seeking audio advice
I'm looking to upgrade my stereo system while keeping the look and
feel as stock as possible (i.e., no bass cannons or wedge-shaped
boxes on the parcel shelf). I don't want to wake the neighbors or
resurrect the dead with a $10K supersystem...I just want some decent
sound while I cruise. I'm in the process of replacing my headliner,
so I figure now is as good a time as any to take a heat gun to those
back panels.
I've been looking at the 4x10 Pioneer speakers that other folks seem
to have had good luck with, and from what I've read in the archive
the stock Craig fronts sound just as good as any other 3.5's out
there. Given this setup, what about adding a subwoofer mounted in a
replacement cover for the locking compartment behind the driver's
seat? Kicker has an 8" square sub that looks like it would fit
nicely, and I've seen someone else do this with an Infinity
Reference. Will the close proximity of the driver's seat diminish the
performance of the sub?
I've also considered putting an amp in the locking compartment, but
considering the heat they dissipate would that be a bad idea for the
amp, sub, or the Jetronic components in there? Should I vent the
compartment cover? Any suggestions on what amp to use in this
situation?
To complicate things, I'm looking for a receiver that will play MP3's
but I'm having a tough time finding one that matches the look and
feel of the interior of a gray D. The closest I've found so far is
the Kenwood eXcelon Z919...know of any that match better?
And, most important of all, how dumb an idea is this in terms of my
car's stock electrical system? Should I upgrade the Motorola
alternator to a 105-amp and install a FanZilla before I try anything
like this?
I'll be checking with Crutchfield on this stuff, too, but you folks
know what works in our unique cars far better than they would. Any
suggestions or ideas would be greatly appreciated!
________________
Todd Masinelli
VIN 6681
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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 00:08:36 -0400
From: "Sal celeste" <Rustproof@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Three questions and a fun project
Hank,
Looks to me that those torsion bar female recepticles are WAY OUT of any
acceptable tolerance. I would say you are really close to wearing that door
for a hat! Yes, get it fixed. Pronto. Unless it's on the wife's side of the
car...then don't worry about it! (kidding) Be VERY CAREFUL replacing them as
the stored energy within the torsion bar is incredible and can easily injure
you or even worse, seriously damage your car! There is a published detailed
proceedure for this at a couple of the DMC sites. This is one is pretty
good: http://labwww.csv.cmich.edu/luke/auto/delorean/repair/default.html I
have done this twice using this guideline and I am still alive! This site
can also answer your other questions regarding the tires and other specs. As
for that connector, it looks like that little nasty bugger that plugs into
the warning chime located just above the steering column near the fire-wall.
I guess the former owner just got sick of listening to it!
Good Luck
Sal
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 04:40:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dee Moats <Dee-Moats@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Wide Black Sidestripes
I was in at DMC a few weeks ago and Stephen showed me the three different
types he is going to stock. He showed me the original work from DMC where
they were or thinking about being mfg by John Z. One of the stripes is
identical to the one that the dealer put on my car before I purchased it in
1982. The other two are jazzy as well. No more dull sided DeLoreans! Vin
#004434
Dee-Moats@xxxxxxxxxx
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 05:04:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dee Moats <Dee-Moats@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: re: State Farm
On Sat, 28 Apr 2001 14:56:59 EDT, dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
In a message dated 4/28/01 1:54:00 PM Central Daylight Time,
smeghead79@xxxxxxxx writes:
> Like a good neighbor, they're on vacation when you need them.
I agree with Andy, I've had my D insured with State Farm since 1982 and have
had several other cars insured there as well. No accidents with the D but
have had claims on Volvo's and others. Never a problem. Vin #004434
Dee-Moats@xxxxxxxxxx
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 08:30:12 -0700
From: "BDM" <bmims@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Low Voltage
I recently replaced my alternator. Afterwards, the ammeter shows very low charging voltage until I rev up engine and then only to about 12V. Recently, my AC would not engage. Tech told me I had low voltage problem. Also there is an intermittent "clicking" sound from somewhere within the dash or rear compartment. Is this related? Do D's have voltage regulators? Any suggestions as to why I would have chronically low voltage?
Bobby Mims
Tyler, Texas
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 12:38:14 -0000
From: dmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: DeLorean Body Kit & Door Rubber
Hi all,
I am sure that I saw a DeLorean with some kind of body kit on it on
the net a while ago. Is there a specific body kit for the DeLorean
and if so does anyone know were I could get one from, and how much it
costs.
Also doe anyone know whether you can get hold of the outer door seal
of the roll rather than in pre cut lenghts?. It seems rather
expensive from all of the DeLorean vendors I have looked at on line
in comparison to other rubbers I have brought.
Thanks
James
UK
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 09:51:55 -0500
From: at88mph@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: temp sending unit wiring
Andy,
Take a small paper clip and via the opening of the trip odometer reset, push
the needle down. This should reset your temp guage and it should start
working fine. This happens sometimes and once you reset the guage like
this, it should be fine from now on.
Hope this helps,
Duke
----- Original Message -----
From: <Soma576@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2001 6:57 PM
Subject: [DML] temp sending unit wiring
> Hello All,
>
> this weekend i would like to diagnose my temp sending unit problem/temp
gauge
> problem. right now it is stuck about 1/3 of the way up on the gauge and
it
> will not reset when you turn the key. it's just stuck there.
> thanks!
> Andy
>
> Soma576@xxxxxxx
> 1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
> Fargo, ND 58102
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 15:04:35 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Water Pump and A/C Idler bearings
I used Hylomar gasket dressing on the back of my water pump housing.
Make sure you replace the paper gasket as this sealant is only a
dressing for it, it's not to be used without some sort of gasket. The
Hylomar sealant can be found at any Pep Boys. It says that one of the
uses for it is water pump applications. Great stuff, it doesn't
harden and it allows for easy disassembly in the future since it
doesn't dry.
As for the A/C idler pulleys, you will need to remove the pulley's
with the bracket they are mounted onto off the engine. Next remove
the bolts on the back of the pulley that are attaching the
pulley/mounting stud to the bracket and knock the stud out of the
center of the pulleys. Clean out the center of each pulley (where the
stud was) with some brake cleaner and you will see that there is an
internal "C" clip holding the bearing in. You will need a pair of C
clip pliers to remove them. Each pulley has two of them, one on the
front and one on the rear, remove them both. You will need the press
the bearings out. What I did was I placed the pulley flat down onto
an open vise, the vice was opened enough to allow the bearing to fall
through. Don't clamp the pulley into the vice, just place it on top
of the partially open jaws, like I said only open them enough for the
bearing to pass through. I then placed a socket the same diameter as
the bearing into the center of the pulley, resting on the bearing.
Gently strike it with a hammer a few times and the bearing should
come loose and come out. To install the new ones, Install one of the
C clips into the pulley. At the other open end place the bearing into
it and place the same socket you used to remove the old bearing on
top of the new one. Again, make sure it's the same diameter, if it's
smaller it may damage the bearing. It should sit on the outer metal
portion of the bearing and it should also fit into the hole in the
pulley. Give it a couple of gentle strikes until the bearing bottoms
out on the C clip you installed previously. Install the other C clip
and assemble it back onto the brackets and engine. Also be sure you
replace the "O" ring seal.
Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxx> wrote:
> Does anyone here know if I need some kind of sealant on the large
> gasket for the back cover or the water pump?
>
> I am also attempting to replace the bearings in the AC idler (one
has
> almosted seiezed up!). But I am unsure exactly how I'm supposed to
be
> doing this. (I have the belt and bearying kit from PJ Grady).
>
> Any help will be greatly appreciated.
>
> Jim Reeve
> MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
> DMC-6960
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 16:29:06 -0400
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Young Ladies and DeLoreans [was Pic of the Month]
David Swingle wrote:
> Who says girls don't dig DeLoreans. . . . . . .
What a coincidence! That was practically an engraved invitation to post this true story.
Last Saturday evening my wife, Patti, and I stopped to gas up the DeLorean. There were four other cars at the
station, all driven by attractive 19ish young ladies dressed for a night on the town. They were obviously going
somewhere together.
As soon as my gullwing door went up, the girls went nuts.
"Ooh! What a cool car!"
"Is that a Ferrari?"
"Can we touch it?"
"It's soooo shiny!"
In a second I was surrounded by female DeLorean admirers. These young ladies asked none of the usual questions; I
don't think they even recognized that it was a DeLorean. They did know that it was a great looking car, and so they
showered it with gushing compliments. I enjoyed their enthusiasm as I fueled up. Patti enjoyed it, too, though
perhaps not as much as I did.
While I was at the cash register, through the window I saw Patti step away from the car, leaving both doors up.
Then I saw the flash of a camera strobe. I stepped outside to watch the girls taking turns posing with my
DeLorean. One would snap a picture while two or three others clung to the open doors, leaned against the fenders,
or draped themselves across the hood.
An impromptu photo shoot at the gas station.
Wow.
The DML is never gonna believe this!
Maybe they were college photography students. Maybe they were professional models. Maybe they were something
else. All I know for certain is that they were genuinely excited to see, touch, and be photographed with my
DeLorean.
And they weren't being graded or paid for it.
- Mike Substelny
VIN 01280, 8 years
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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 17:10:43 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Water Pump and A/C Idler bearings
Jim,
I didn't use any sealant on the large o-ring gasket (the one that falls out
when you take the bracket loose that holds the idler bearings.) Since the
gasket and whole area were dry (no oil residues) I figure that the gasket is
only to stop dust from getting in there.
For removing the old bearings from the pulleys, I put each pulley over a
partially open large shop vice and hammered the bearings out using a large
1/2" drive socket that fit the closest. >From what I have read in the DML
archives, this seems to be the established way to do it. Oh, before you
drive the bearings out, you need to remove the snap rings. I used snap ring
pliers.
When you put it back together, beware that the pictorial diagram in the
parts manual is wrong. It don't fit together that way. I hope you took
notes when you took it apart. When you are done, make sure the belts all
line up properly. At a DeLorean show I saw one guy's car with the pulley
bracket put on wrong so that the belts were misaligned by 1/4" or so. Doh!
I have never gotten into a DeLorean water pump (yet) but one thing to
mention that I don't think I have seen in any of the archives yet is that
there is a little oil hole on the top of the pump just behind the pulley.
The pump should last longer if a few drops of oil are put in that hole on
rare occasion -- especially if the car has been in storage for a few years.
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 21:57:32 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: seeking audio advice
If you are looking for a simple system that provides great sound,
skip the amp. The DeLorean cabin is small enough that it doesn't
warrant the amp for this setup in my my opinion. Espcially for the
size speakers you're looking to install. You'll have decent enough
sound that for what you want that you will be happy. The fiberglass
floorboads can resonate enough as it is. If you're looking to install
any type of sub woofer(s) anywhere in the car, then you may want to
reconsider the entire design. But if you want to keep the system
simple, then leave out plans for additional speakers other than the 4
in the stock locations.
If you want to kick things up a notch, here's an exaple of my car.
Right now I only have 6 speakers active in the DeLorean. Two 6x10"
Infinity Kappa's on the rear shelf wall, two 5¼" Infinity's mounted
on the lower kick panels, and two tweeters located in the dash board.
As of right now the system sounds great, but since it is incomplete,
I have 2 dead spots (between doors), and too much treble (high notes
are ear piercing if not adjusted properly). To finish off, I will
install 2 small bazooka tubes under the dash aimed at the floorbards,
and two 4x10" speakers back into the rear spaces for the factory
speakers. With this setup I will still have access to my rear parcel
shelf, and a decent amount of base. For the amp installation, I'll
probably go with installing it under the spare tire.
If you're looking for a MP3 player for the car, try this site out
www.empeg.com
Haven't used the product yet, but it is an alternative that I've
found. If I could hook a wireless NIC to the player, I'd have the
DeLorean on my home network with my other PC's!
-Robert
vin 6585
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, webmaster@xxxx wrote:
> I'm looking to upgrade my stereo system while keeping the look and
> feel as stock as possible (i.e., no bass cannons or wedge-shaped
> boxes on the parcel shelf). I don't want to wake the neighbors or
> resurrect the dead with a $10K supersystem...I just want some
decent
> sound while I cruise...
<SNIP>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 23:18:26 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Shipping a car from the US?
Hi All,
I have been researching shipping a potential purchase from the US back
to the UK, and came across this mightily useful page. Basically a list
of car shipping companies who'll ship internationally from anywhere in
the US. Many have on-line quoting services.
http://www.movecars.com/toc/find/index.htm#overseas
I'll let you know how I get on...
Martin
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 01:03:56 +0200
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Electrical Glitch, is this bad??? (quite long)
Hello everyone,
Since my daily driver (an old Ford Escort) has a fuel leak I decided to take my
DeLorean to the movies this evening, everything went fine untill I got halfway
back home...
I had to use my High beams to signal someone from the opposit direction, as I
did this, my Radio cut off, the Tach mad a full 360 spin and the engine
heldback, followed immediately by a backfire (logical I guess, probably no spark...).
As I didn't trust this I tried the Highs several times more and it did exactly
the same, voltage dropped to about 8 Volt, then rose back to 11, at this point
the radio came back on and the high beams stayed on as they should, releasing
the switch only made the voltage go back up to 13, signalling made it drop again...
When I was at home I parked my car and tried it again several times, both at
idle as well as with some throttle (about 1500rpm, couldn't revv too much: it
was 23.30h allready) stayed the same, so I'd thought I'd check tomorrow. Put out
the lights, released the throttle and turned the ignition off.
This made hell brake loose... Well actually just my alarmsystem going off, but a
120dB siren in between houses makes a lot of noise! I finally got the alarm to
shut up (I HATE emergency-powered sirens), drove out of town -so I wouldn't get
into a fight with the neigbourhood- and tried all again.
NOTHING!!! Everything worked as it should, alarm, locks, tach, lights, EVERYTHING...
I'm totally at a loss what this could be of could have been. I know (I've read
the manual) the alarm probably went off because of the voltage-drop: this is a
tamper-protection in case anyone tries to disconnect the battery or siren. I did
not see the BATT-light come on (light is in working order) and I DO have power
from the alternator: my voltages rises and drops with the RPMs.
The battery has power since even with the siren going off the remote on the
alarm still worked and I was able to start right away (when trying to get away
from an angry neigbour (he's an ^&%$^#%# anyway, so I don't really care about
him, but even more what he might do to my car)).
Turning the ignition to I made the alarm shut up (the way it is supposed to
according to the manual).
So, what do I know?
- the car seems OK, since everything works now.
- my alarmsystem works the way it is supposed to.
- the battery connections are in place and firmly seated
- I HATE the sound of my siren and makes my ears hurt ;-)
- The tach can spin over 360 degrees without breaking...
- there is SOMETHING WRONG, but I don't know what or why!!!
This last one is my trouble; does anyone have any idea what could have or can
cause this?
I really need to know this: I didn't dare put on the alarm after the argue I had
with the guy from across the street, so I put a surveilance cam on it, but
that's not an ideal situation...
Please help, where should I check first?
Thanks in advance, hope I can get some sleep after this.
JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
check out the Delorean-Files at:
http://www.deloreanfiles.nl/
------------------------------
PS. since my message is kind of long, please trim your quotes when posting an
answer to the list. Let's make life a little easier for the moderators ;-)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 19:49:47 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Low Voltage
Sounds like you didn't use a 100+ amp alternator on your replacement.
----- Original Message -----
From: "BDM" <bmims@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2001 11:30 AM
Subject: [DML] Low Voltage
> I recently replaced my alternator. Afterwards, the ammeter shows very low
charging voltage until I rev up engine and then only to about 12V.
Recently, my AC would not engage. Tech told me I had low voltage problem.
Also there is an intermittent "clicking" sound from somewhere within the
dash or rear compartment. Is this related? Do D's have voltage regulators?
Any suggestions as to why I would have chronically low voltage?
>
> Bobby Mims
> Tyler, Texas
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 19:54:52 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Carpet Adhesive
Carpet adhesive, NONE. Although you may want to glue down some sound
proofing and carpet padding first. McMaster Carr has sound proofing sheets.
Check the archives also.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fernando Dillard" <fdillard@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "dmcnews" <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2001 9:14 PM
Subject: [DML] Carpet Adhesive
>
> Hi List,
> What is the recommended adhesive for installing the driver and
> passenger floor carpets?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 20:11:57 EDT
From: Meyerleem@xxxxxx
Subject: Front pads & rotors
Are the front brake pads and rotors on my 1981 car inter-changeable with
some other make and model? I hate to be cheap but over a hundred $ seems
pretty excessive for a rotor.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 18:48:22 -0500
From: "Jake" <jkampho@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Young Ladies and DeLoreans [was Pic of the Month]
Hmmmm.....I don't know, Mike.
--Sounds like one of those "van full of nurses" stories..... ;-)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Substelny" <msubstel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2001 3:29 PM
Subject: [DML] Young Ladies and DeLoreans [was Pic of the Month]
<snip>
> Wow.
>
> The DML is never gonna believe this!
>
<snip>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 20:55:19 EDT
From: Meyerleem@xxxxxx
Subject: Twin turbos
Does anyone have a web address for turbo manifold co. ? have twin turbos on
my car that have devveloped an oil leak into the turbos. The car runs fine
but the smoke really distracts from the car. I'm hoping to fine the most
likely place for a leak and how to fix it.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 21:57:44 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Low Voltage
Bobby, The alternator is the source of all the power and voltage, If your
experiencing a low voltage problem, then I would take the alternator back. It
more than likley has a bad regulator. I you want to see what they should do.
Look at my web site under talk & View. The alternators put out normally
14.5Volts +/- with 150 amps average. What did you have turned on when you
took the reading. Call if I can help.972-564-9321.
800-413-3300 9-5 m-f office.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
Dallas/Forney, Texas
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 02:13:23 -0000
From: theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Door Ajar Light/Voltmeter/CD Player
I just put a self-bleeder from DMC Joe in, and while driving around
to make sure nothing was leaking coolant, I noticed the door ajar
light was on. I checked the rubber things on the end of the switches
and they were both there. I even disconnected both wires to both
switches and the light was still on. The door illumination marker
lights and the key in buzzer stopped when both switches were
in, but the door ajar light kept shining. I pulled fuse 5 (dash
services) and the light went out. I assume this is a short somewhere.
The question is, where? When putting the new speaker wires in for
the new speakers and CD Player (more on this later) had to run the
wires for the rear speakers through the center console. Is it possible
I knocked something loose to cause this light to stay on? If so, are
there any obvious places to look? Also, when I was testing the
self-bleeder I noticed the voltmeter was very low, down at the first
mark at about 4 o'clock on the gage. I didn't have anything on other
than the engine. No a/c, no radio, no headlights. Could I have also
caused this when running the speaker wires? If so, where should I
check first? Anyway, about the CD Player and speakers. For the
rears I used 4"x10" Pioneer TS-A4103's and for the fronts 3.5"
Pioneer TS-A878's. All were mounted in the stock locations. For the
player I used a Pioneer DEH-P330. I haven't cut the hole in the radio
bracket to din size yet, but it sounds great! As I turned on the
radio, I heard the antenna go up and was thinking "that must be a
good sign." I popped in my CD of "Bohemian Rhapsody," heard the
wonderful sound quality, and was thinking "Cool, it's Bohemian
Rhapsody. It's on a cd. It's in my DeLorean. Hey! It works!"
Anyway, any help on my door ajar light/voltmeter problem would be
appreciated.
John Yeoman
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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 02:49:49 -0000
From: mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Carpet Adhesive
To: Fernando and the List
To read about recommended adhesives for your DeLorean carpets read
the messages 14448, 14454, 14455. Or you can simply type in the word
adhesive in the blank box next to the button that says, 'Search
Archive', and it will take you on a journey of opinions, quotes,
general info., how to's, where to buy, where to get, and why the heck
is my car acting this way it wasn't doing it before I bought the darn
20 year old car.
Signed,
Mark R. Vanyo
VIN # 02261 is still in the shop.
Lic OUTATYM
Seattle, WA
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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 03:29:50 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Low Voltage
The first place to start (and the cheapest) is to check ALL of the
connections. Start with all of the grounds, and then all of the heavy
positive leads. Move on to the relay-fuse block. Pull and clean all of
the fuses while checking the connecters. Do the relays too. The
clicking noise you hear may be the cooling or fan circuit breaker
cycling if they have not been upgraded to the higher ampere rating. If
the a/c isn't running that could be a separate problem ie: low freon.
The voltage meter in the dash isn't the most accurate so if you
suspect voltage problems you should investigate with a more accurate
meter. Then you can also look for voltage drops across terminals. A
bad battery could also cause a chronic low volt condition. In this
case the alternater is always putting out all it can but the battery
can't hold it. Most places that sell batteries will do a FREE load
test on the battery so they can try to sell you a new one. Most Sears
also test batteries and alternaters for free. Check the belt on the
alternater to be sure it isn't slipping. The voltage regulater is
internal to the alternater so if you replaced the alternater you
already replaced the regulater. Make sure the ground strap from the
engine to the frame is still there, clean, and tight. Deloreans do not
have any real problems in this area and those that do usually are due
to dirty connections which on a 20+ year old car isn't that rare.
(Unless you count the "D's" which still have the Ducey alternater,
those DO have chronic undervoltage problems.)
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "BDM" <bmims@xxxx> wrote:
> I recently replaced my alternator. Afterwards, the ammeter shows
very low charging voltage until I rev up engine and then only to about
12V. Recently, my AC would not engage. Tech told me I had low
voltage problem. Also there is an intermittent "clicking" sound from
somewhere within the dash or rear compartment. Is this related? Do
D's have voltage regulators? Any suggestions as to why I would have
chronically low voltage?
>
> Bobby Mims
> Tyler, Texas
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 22:44:39 -0500
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Low Voltage
Hey- I've got in-laws in Tyler!
I head up there once in a while (sans-D, pro-fam). We'll have to get
together when I do.
Have you checked the voltage on the alternator itself? It's much more
reliable than the instrument in the dash. I called Houston about mine (it's
A/C season alright) and James (I think) told me to check the alternator
itself because the instrument tended to be a little off.
I still worry about it though as I cruise through traffic with AC on.
I kind of like Hank's little meter.
Have you checked to see if your AC system is charged? It might be empty, and
that would cause it to click relays and not stay on.
----- Original Message -----
From: "BDM" < >
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2001 10:30 AM
Subject: [DML] Low Voltage
> I recently replaced my alternator. Afterwards, the ammeter shows very low
charging voltage until I rev up engine and then only to about 12V.
Recently, my AC would not engage. Tech told me I had low voltage problem.
Also there is an intermittent "clicking" sound from somewhere within the
dash or rear compartment. Is this related? Do D's have voltage regulators?
Any suggestions as to why I would have chronically low voltage?
>
> Bobby Mims
> Tyler, Texas
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 21:51:52 -0700
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: dents
Several PNDC members have had success with paintless dent removal-type
service. The key is finding someone talented enough to do a good job.
Figure on having to re-grain it yourself, which isn't difficult. And not
all dents are easily accessible from behind, especially hoods and doors.
--
Darryl Tinnerstet
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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 22:09:27 -0700
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE:Rear Rotor Disc Removal Question
> I removed the drive shaft, caliper and bolt and washer assembly that fits in
> the middle of the disc. Is there something I'm missing? Is it just stuck
> on there with 20 years of crud? or is there something else?
You didn't need to remove the center nut or drive shaft. Before breaking
something you might want to remove the countersunk Phillips screw that is
midway between two of the lug bolts. See the parts book at 6-2-0, #13. If
you have it out and the disc still won't come off, then its just stuck.
Only that screw holds the rotor in place once the caliper has been removed.
--
Darryl Tinnerstet
Specialty Automotive
McCleary, WA
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