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There are 14 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: drain plug removal tool
From: "Mark Hershey" <dmcinfo@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: The yearly A/C question
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
3. Re: double-speed turn signal!
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
4. Re: Speaker reconing
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
5. Re: Turn signal speeds II
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
6. Re: drain plug removal tool
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Health problems in Ireland??
From: "John Dore" <dmcjohn@xxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Vanity plates
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
9. Timing- Pulley notch
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Speaker reconing
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
11. Re: Vanity plates....creative!~
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
12. Craig Radio Display
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
13. RE: engine swap
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
14. Help changing a Fuel Accumulator
From: "dmczr1" <dmczr1@xxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2001 15:14:41 -0600
From: "Mark Hershey" <dmcinfo@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: drain plug removal tool
DeLorean Houston-- part number 111104 DRAIN PLUG WRENCH-SOCKET
It's about $18 and it's a SnapOn Tools part. Appears to be a high quality
socket adapter machined down (not just ground) to fit the square hole.
----- Original Message -----
From: "dmc1982" <dmc1982@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, March 03, 2001 10:22 AM
Subject: [DML] drain plug removal tool
> O.K., I give . I know I have seen on the list but a search was negative,
> where you can purchase the correct oil drain removal tool. I have a
> home-made one but my plug is stuck and I am messing it up . Any ideas on
> the part # and availability and/or stuck drain plug removal will be
greatly
> appreciated.
>
> Cecil Longwisch
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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 03 Mar 2001 22:28:55 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: The yearly A/C question
The availability of R-12 has been a long running issue. Unless
something has suddenly changed, there shouldn't be any worry.
Personally, I myself perfer R-12 over R-134a. Here in the desert, R-12
cools down much quicker, and doesn't strain engines as much. A few
years ago with a previous job I had, there were 2 seperate vans. An
older 89 w/R-12, and a newer 97 w/R-134a. Both were Dodge 1500 fleet
vans. Needless to say the older van had many more miles on it. But in
the summer time the A/C would always cool down quicker, and the van
had better pick up with the A/C running.
R-12 is an environmetal concern due to careless people. Example: You
yourself know that your car's A/C system has a leak. So you are
investigating leak and you will repair it. But most people just ignore
the problem and keep pumping refrigerant in fully knowing that it will
leak out. It's easier to keep filling a system then it is to repair
it. This is one of the causes of the hole in the ozone layer, and why
R-12 is being phazed out. As long as you take good care of your A/C,
it will run great for many years to come. I run the system twice a
month. Doing this pumps the oil through the hoses, and keeps the
rubber connections lubed, thus preventing them from drying and rotting
out. A R-134a system can leak just the same, but is only less
poluting.
On ther other hand. If I were driving an older car that I knew that I
wouldn't be willing to give as much attention to, I would probably
convert that one over to R-134a.
For cooler climates (California), R-134a should be ok. But here in the
desert, I perfer R-12. In either case, make sure that you give the
system a good going over. You may want to look into spending a little
extra cash and replace the accumulator and the orifice tube since they
may have been exposed to the outside air. Also have a pressure test
run, and maybe add some dye to check for leaks. If you do decide to go
with R-12, and you get the system running to it's peak performance, it
should serve you well for many years to come. You won't have to search
for freon if your A/C is in good running order.
-Robert
vin 6585
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Ryan McCaffrey" <ryanjm@xxxx> wrote:
<SNIP>
>Should I convert to R-134a? The AZ-D club mechanic, Stan Davis, who
is the
> owner of Mesa Auto Works, said that I won't be able to get R-12 in a
year.
> He also said that 134a is made colder by a new adjustable orifice
tube (my
> paraphrase may not be exactly correct there) that adjusts to make it
a bit
> colder. Should I hunt down and pay more for the colder, stock R-12
or
> convert to the 134a?
<SNIP>
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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 03 Mar 2001 22:58:55 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: double-speed turn signal!
I would first remove and inspect every light bulb. I have seen cases
where the wrong type was installed and created all kinds of weird
syptoms. Look for a double contact base bulb where you should have a
single contact base, wrong wattage, shorted filiments, etc. After that
then check wiring especially if any was modified or non-origional.
Check grounds and you could try switching things side to side so if
you can get the trouble to move to the other side then you found the
culprit. Things to swap include bulbs and the taillight boards. When
you remove the bulbs flick each one with your fingers and watch the
filiment, you should not see one end shaking inside, I have seen many
times a bulb goes intermittant because the filiment is only touching
on one end and is no longer firmly connected. Make sure all
connections are shiny and tight, if necessary remove each and inspect.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Soma576@xxxx wrote:
> Hey guys,
>
> i have a problem i'm sure everyone here has had - my left turn
signal is
> twice as fast as it should be! now i know this usually results from
a bad
> wire somewhere shorting out. however, listen to this:
>
> 1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
> Fargo, ND 58102
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 03 Mar 2001 23:03:35 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Speaker reconing
Although you can still find services that can recone speakers I don't
think that is such a great idea. Besides the wait for the speakers to
be returned they still can't compare to the newer technology that you
can install. I don't think it is such a great price savings
considering you will be reconing "cheap" speakers anyway. (They
weren't really any good when they were new so this is a great excuse
to replace them anyway.)
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxx> wrote:
> Not mentioned but FYI speakers can be reconed, I ran a radio/TV biz
for
> a lot of years and we had speakers reconed as a regular part of what
we
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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2001 18:31:29 EST
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Turn signal speeds II
In a message dated 3/3/01 2:11:11 PM Central Standard Time,
jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> If you have a poor ground connection, concurrent with a speed
> difference, you will have a dimming of the bulbs on that side. When you
> get a poor ground sufficient to change speed, you will have lower
> voltage. Without one side having dimmer lights not much chance of a
> ground problem. The way it works, think of a quick bi-metal strip that
> gets hot and opens then closes quickly. The greater the current drain
> the hotter it gets and the quicker it opens and closes. If a bulb is
> out on one side the current is less so that side takes longer to get hot
> and cycle. What was presented on the list was a perfect example of one
> bulb out but since that doesn't seem to be Andy's problem we're looking
> in the corners. If all bulbs are the same brightness they are all
> getting the same voltage...no ground problem and no ground intercept
> problem (wiring).
>
>
Hey all,
i haven't taken apart my lights back there yet because just from looking at
my lights i do not believe any of them are out. however, i will be sure to
take everything apart tomorrow (i am doing lots of work on the car tomorrow).
i'll let you guys know if i find anything that might be causing the problem.
however!!! is it safe to rule out that there is no problem in my fuse/relay
compartment? is there anything in there that could be causing the problem?
thanks!
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2001 00:48:24 -0000
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: drain plug removal tool
OIL drain - Snap-On PMM-408 Male Pipe Plug socket 8 mm
BTW the trans drain tool is a PMP-410 Female pipe plug socket 10 mm.
These are purpose-built tools, not ground down from anything. Price is about the same from snap-on so you may a well get it from a DMC vendor when you buy oil filters.
Dave Swingle
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Mark Hershey" <dmcinfo@xxxx> wrote:
> DeLorean Houston-- part number 111104 DRAIN PLUG WRENCH-SOCKET
> It's about $18 and it's a SnapOn Tools part. Appears to be a high
quality
> socket adapter machined down (not just ground) to fit the square
hole.
>
>
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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2001 02:15:59 -0000
From: "John Dore" <dmcjohn@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Health problems in Ireland??
Hey Marc,
It's "foot AND mouth" not "hoof in mouth!", and we're doing
everything we can to keep it out of our country - it's England that
has the widespread foot & mouth problem. If you'll be travelling into
the Republic of Ireland from the North during your stay, they'll
probably want to disinfect you & your car as a precaution. Also, if
the problem isn't cleared up by the end of May, you should keep away
from farms. It's not that there is any danger to humans, but the
disease will spread further if people don't take care. Anyway I
wouldn't worry about it!
See you in May,
John Dore, Ireland.
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxx> wrote:
> Anyone from Ireland care to comment on the health situation there??
>
> We keep hearing and reading of Mad cow, and hoof in mouth problems.
>
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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2001 20:34:34 EST
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Vanity plates
Hey List,
There was a De Lorean here in NY that got hit really bad on the
drivers side front and it had the license plate "88 MPH". As for me, I am
considering getting "2MCHTIME" which sorta is a BTTF reference with the word
"time" in it, but if you knew that it has taken me OVER 3 years to get this
car on the road then...yeah...it has been "2MCHTIME" :)
Later,
Nick
1852
<A HREF="" href="Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548</A>
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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2001 21:19:07 -0500 (EST)
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Timing- Pulley notch
howdy-
I was just reading about nick's timing, and I remembered I was going to ask
about it- From what I can see, it seems that the notch is only on the
engine-side of the pulley. The stationary timing plate (with the numbers)
covers the engine side of the pulley, therefore making it impossible to see
the mark. Now, is my plate bent/afterstock? Is the notch on both sides of
the pulley and I saw a 'different' notch? Did someone install my pulley
wrong? Thanks for the help....
Jim.
VIN 153-freakin-7
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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2001 02:34:41 -0000
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Speaker reconing
Les, You know as I that over the years the cones dry out and warp.
Then they scratch. Due to the odd shap of the back ones and being
real hard to swap out. I cut two 6" holes in the back board and put
some kenwood speakers in. You wouldn't know it wasn't original. We
still have one rebuilder in Dallas, But I think you can buy originals
from DMC Houston or P.J. Grady I'm sure. They used to rebuild at a
$1.00 /". That was in the 70's.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxx> wrote:
> Not mentioned but FYI speakers can be reconed, I ran a radio/TV biz
for
>
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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2001 02:37:35 -0000
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Vanity plates....creative!~
Justin, One of my cars is ( Back To ) and when I get around to it I
want to name the others ( The ) and ( Future ).
John Hervey in Dallas,,11004,6935,6568.
www.specialTauto.com
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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2001 02:41:29 -0000
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Craig Radio Display
Group, If you want the Craig Radio display working again.I have
rewired two and have one here at the shop now to fix. It will get
done.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com
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Message: 13
Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2001 23:00:35 -0500 (EST)
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: engine swap
I don't think Walt was intentionally trying to spread misinformation or
attack anyone personally. One might make the same argument that you're
spreading misinformation by saying it handles better? What's your proof?
Personally, I believe that a lighter car handles better than the same car
heavier. I also believe that a car with a front/rear ratio closer to 50/50
handles better than one with ratios at the extremes. By 'handling', I'm
referring to maximum lateral acceleration. This has little to do with
engine horsepower.
I was particularly surprised when I found the lateral acceleration numbers
for the Delorean... For a car that's so rear-weight biases, it handles very
well- Go Lotus!
Jim.
153freakin7
PS. I'd be very interested in finding out the lateral acceleration
capabilities of the different Delorean mods- The 4.3L vortec, the small
block Chevy, the rover v8, the northstar, and a stock. We need a place to
test- anyone own a race track? Anyone live on a cul-de-sac? :)
------Original Message------
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: March 2, 2001 4:29:14 AM GMT
Subject: [DML] RE: engine swap
> I've heard complaints that the
> weight of a steel block engine can affect the handling.
Complaints from who - anyone who has actually done it
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Message: 14
Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2001 21:19:36 -0700
From: "dmczr1" <dmczr1@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Help changing a Fuel Accumulator
I'm trying to replace the fuel accumulator on my '82. I thought it would be
easier going in from underneath (silly me) since my garage has a grease pit.
With all the spilled gas on me and the floor, the garage now smells like a
petroleum refinery. It was me versus the accumulator, but I finally got it
out. A couple of slight problems though. In order to pull it out to work
on the fittings, I cut the end of the teflon line. Looked like no problem
since there is allot of slack.
First mistake was cutting it, I nicked the slip fitting that is screwed into
the acumulator. Since the gas is under high pressure, I probably need to
replace that. Is that a common piece at auto supply stores or do I need to
order from one of the vendors.
Looking at the teflon hose I see cracking in the rubber. But I also see the
inner lining (teflon) is about as tough as anything short of a steel line.
Has anyone replaced this teflon hose and if so where do you get it?
Finally, the two screwed fittings (the slip fitting to teflon line, and the
90 elbow to the steel line) must have been put on the accumulator by and
ex-NFL linebacker. I cannot get those puppies off. I'll try soaking them
overnight in WD-40 to see if that helps.
Any advice? Thanks in advance.
Jack Janney
'82 #10901
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