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There are 13 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Lee's Model Kit
From: ddl52@xxxxxxx
2. Turn Signals
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Low profile rims & tires
From: "Danrc30" <Danrc30@xxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Swaybar (was Low profile rims. . )
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Front end vibration
From: "Michael R Dixon" <investment@xxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Low profile rims & tires
From: wingd2@xxxxxxx
7. Lee's Model Kits
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf@xxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: MORE Swaybar (was Low profile rims. . )
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Replacement Heat Shield
From: sand131@xxxxxxx
10. Lexan or Plexiglass windshields
From: cbl302@xxxxxxx
11. Re: WARNING!
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: Turn Signals
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Front end vibration
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 17:12:29 EDT
From: ddl52@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Lee's Model Kit
John -
I also have never received my kit , and my E-mails are not
answered. Maybe other list members who have received a kit could respond and
ease our fears.
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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 01 Oct 2000 23:01:30 -0000
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Turn Signals
After now getting my cooling fan repaired, I have run into yet
another "I never imagined this could go wrong too, but since it could
it did" type of problem. Now my right turn signal has decided to
speed up and blinks about 3 times faster then my left. Hazard lights
operate as normal, and no bulbs are burned out. Any ideas? At this
point I'd even consider a witch doctor!
-Robert
vin 6585
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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 20:52:23 -0400
From: "Danrc30" <Danrc30@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Low profile rims & tires
Walt, if you make a custom swaybar, make sure you beef it up a bit. The front swaybar is too cheezy. It needs more strength to reduce the high amound of body roll the DeLorean has. My custom wheels rub the swaybar a bit too, but it's not a big deal.
One thing you can do is take a stock rear spacer from a DeLorean and put it up front. That will push the wheel out 1/8". I put two on each side, but I had to because my lugholes in the new wheels were too small and the studs on the car flare out before they go into the hub. So it wouldn't fit right, and I had to space my fronts out 1/4". I suggest you look closely at your fronts as well. You might have the same problem, and that might be why you're front wheels are shaking. The wheels will look like they're against the hub, but they're not. You have to reach behind and actually feel to see if there is a gap in between the rim and the hub or not. Do that before you drive the car again. If you don't, and that's the problem, you run the risk of breaking a stud while yoy're driving, and that's not good.
You can buy beautiful reconditioned factory rear spacers from P.J. Grady. (800) 350-7429. They are plated too so they resist rusting.
Let me know if this helps.
---Dan
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 01:02:04 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Swaybar (was Low profile rims. . )
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Danrc30" <Danrc30@xxxx> wrote:
> Walt, if you make a custom swaybar, make sure you beef it up a bit.
> The front swaybar is too cheezy.
Keep in mind that the front swaybar is more than just a swaybar on
this car. As part of Lotus' weight-saving design, it also sets the
location of the lower control arms, i.e. the camber of the front
end. It is much more a precision (alignment) part than the swaybar
on a "normal" car. The dimensions are critical.
Dave Swingle
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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 20:31:20 -0500
From: "Michael R Dixon" <investment@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Front end vibration
I just had my front tires balanced again but can't seem to get a little vibration out at about 50mph and above. What else can it be that is causing my vibration?
--
Michael R. Dixon
The Investment Center
Securities Offered Through Harbour Investments Inc.
One Odana Ct.
Madison, WI. 53719
(608) 274-7744
Securities Licensed in OK. CO.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 21:50:18 EDT
From: wingd2@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Low profile rims & tires
Walt,
Keep up the postings. You come up with some very interesting ideas
sometimes :-)
As far as the original front wheels rubbing the front sway bar, it's a yes
and no answer. Yes, on many Deloreans, the inside of the front wheels /
tires rubs the sway bar, but No it's not supposed to. If the front end is
aligned correctly AND the steering rack is correctly centered when this is
done, the front wheels will not rub the sway bar, even at lock to lock. It is
very close, but they will clear on both sides. And the steering rack has a
stop built into it so you can only turn the wheel so far either way. The sway
bar is not supposed to act as the stop for steering movement.
The biggest problem is most alignment shops just reset the toe in with the
steering rack set where ever it happens to be when you bring the car in. This
is OK for getting the alignment within specs, but it normally leads to
allowing the wheel / tire to rub the inside on one side or the other.
You also say you've got problems with your new rims hitting the sway bar
on the inside ? I've been running Falken tires with my Konig custom rims for
a while now and the Falken's I've got have a rubber strip molded into them
which projects out past the wheel lip just for this purpose, to protect the
wheel from hitting. I'm running Falkens new directional Z-IEX Hi Pro tires
and I've been very happy with their performance. You are correct, I have the
same problem you do, with the wider front wheels, there is a rubbing problem
on the insides with the sway bar, but I have tire rub, not metal to metal.
You might play with spacers on the front wheels also, to set them out just a
little. It's a pretty tight fit between the outside fender lip and the inside
sway bar clearance, so you can't go to far - 1/8 to 1/4" max, depending on
the backspacing of your new wheels. I've just gotten used to not turning the
steering wheel all the way lock to lock. If I feel the tire starting to rub,
I just back off the steering wheel a little bit.
Let me know if you come up with a new sway bar to fix this.
Marty
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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 18:58:41 -0700
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Lee's Model Kits
I hate to give a bad report to all of you awaiting your DeLorean kit from Lee. I fought with him for over two years but FINALLY got mine. I am afraid it is about the end of the line in getting anything more from him. I had more sad stories from him than you could shake a stick at. He was threatened with law suits and you name it.....I have built hundreds of highly detailed kits and scratch built them myself over my 79 years. There is no excuse for the procrastination he has done to most of us....He got a few kits out to a few who were in position to brag them up and shall we say, prevaricated to the rest of us. I have a file an inch thick of broken promises. I could write a book.
I hope some of you eventually get your promised kit, but I sure am afraid it is not possible. On another track, I have written several of the biggy national model builders asking about the possibility of them putting out a DeLorean Model. These are not kits, but highly detailed well finished models...I have several. They all indicated there was a good possibility and it is something you would get by return mail and not wait two years and still not get it. Sorry, FWIW Dept.
Murray
Vin: 05962
Lic: DMC-XII
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 02:28:31 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: MORE Swaybar (was Low profile rims. . )
Oops - that's what I get for not looking it up! I meant Caster - the
fore/aft location of the lower ball joint with respect to the upper
ball joint. Thanks Jim S for pointing this out (privately).
Dave
> Keep in mind that the front swaybar is more than just a swaybar on
> this car. As part of Lotus' weight-saving design, it also sets the
> location of the lower control arms, i.e. the camber of the front
> end. It is much more a precision (alignment) part than the swaybar
> on a "normal" car. The dimensions are critical.
>
> Dave Swingle
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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 22:54:09 EDT
From: sand131@xxxxxxx
Subject: Replacement Heat Shield
The memory wont give it up. In 1985 or 86 Someone in DOA Chapter 6 (they had
one at that time) Sold me a custom made heat shield. It was bigger than the
Stock shield (more area) but bolted up and worked well. While replacing my
Ducilier the shield got cracked and I want to replace it with the same one. I
can't remember who I bought it from?? Poss Marvin Gucheck? Help me Please?
Ralph
Vin1606
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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 02:36:31 -0000
From: cbl302@xxxxxxx
Subject: Lexan or Plexiglass windshields
>From what I understand most of the remaining NOS windshields have a
problem with delimanation(TRUE FACT) and as such,can a windshield be
made from Lexan or plexiglass to fit a Delorean,as the Delorean
windshield has no bends as far as I know,(maybe I may be wrong on
that,I maybe thinking Bricklin windshields)Would it be a legal
issue,I just need to do it to get the car thru safety inspection,and
then I would buy a new aftermarket windshield ie:expensive.I was
thinking two sheets of plexiglass joined together,cut to the specs of
a Delorean windshield
and fitted in place of the orignal windshield,once installed it would
be almost impossible to tell from a real windshield,My MAIN concern
is wind pressure,I know in the past GM(General Motors)and other car
makers had/has used plastic windshields,so that this is not a far
fetched idea,I know the big three "D" centers will say "NO",but I
want to hear from Delorean owners about this.Is it possible?The car I
need to put it on is a painted car,so that I am not worried about it
not being original.
Claude
000570
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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 03:14:15 -0000
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: WARNING!
I have done further research in stall testing and you are right in
that you should be able to determine the stall speed in 5 seconds or
less. There has come to light another caution, If during the test the
stall speed exeeds 2100-2200 rpm the test should be ended immediatly
as it now indicates a slipping clutch or brake internal to the
transmission.AGAIN I MUST WARN THAT THIS TEST MUST BE CONDUCTED UNDER
VERY STRICT CONDITIONS. After reviewing the possible outcomes from
improperly doing this procedure I cannot ask any members of the list
to risk their cars. This should be done only by highly qualified
mechanics who have years of experience in testing and rebuilding
automatic transmissions. I ask that the venders and other experienced
persons ONLY help in determining the correct stall speed spec and the
proper procedure.Btw this procedure is used by racers with a trans
brake installed in a modified transmission to "launch" a car with an
automatic transmission.In these circumstances they have a
scattershield installed to contain the pieces so they don't go
through
the console and land 1/4 mile down the road.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
BTW the stall speed in my automatic tested out at 2050+- 50 rpm.
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxx> wrote:
> David,
>
> Concerning the following statement on your "stall speed test":
>
> "release accelerator pedal smoothly ( don't hold to floor for more
> than 20 seconds)"
>
> I did some research on this test and wanted to let you and any other
> Delorean owners who consider conducting this test that according to
the
> "Auto Service and Repair Manual" published by Goodheart-Willcox Co.
> indicates the following:
>
> "When stall testing, never keep the accelerator pedal in the full
throttle
> position for longer than five seconds. To do so will seriously
overheat the
> transmission."
> > > [VERY LONG QUOTATION SNIPPED BY MODERATOR]
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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 03:20:18 -0000
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Turn Signals
Make sure that all of the bulbs are the same type (correct type) and
that they are in the sockets correctly. The hazard flasher is
insensitive to an unbalanced system ie: it will flash even with bulbs
burned out but the turn flasher is supposed to change speed to
indicate a burned out bulb. Try moving bulbs side to side to see if
you can make the problem change sides.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas@xxxx> wrote:
> After now getting my cooling fan repaired, I have run into yet
> another "I never imagined this could go wrong too, but since it
could
> it did" type of problem. Now my right turn signal has decided to
> speed up and blinks about 3 times faster then my left. Hazard
lights
> operate as normal, and no bulbs are burned out. Any ideas? At this
> point I'd even consider a witch doctor!
>
> -Robert
> vin 6585
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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 03:32:00 -0000
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Front end vibration
Some other possibilities to consider are the rear tires (this would
typically manifest itself as a shaking side to side in your belly as
you go through the speed of greatest resonance)a bad wheel bearing or
a rim that is bent. Although you can actually balance a bent rim it
will still run side to side. A simple test is to raise the tire off
the ground put a stick just touching the rim from the side at the
area
where the tire meets the rim and then to slowly rotate the wheel by
hand and see if it moves in and out from the stick.Repeat for each
tire. Another way would be if you could swap tires one at a time with
another "D" that doesn't have a problem. When the vibration goes away
you found the tire. Sometimes tires develop a hard spot and even with
balancing they cause vibrations. Feel the sides of all tires, a
ripple
or bulge indicates internal damage.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Michael R Dixon" <investment@xxxx> wrote:
> I just had my front tires balanced again but can't seem to get a
little vibration out at about 50mph and above. What else can it be
that is causing my vibration?
> --
> Michael R. Dixon
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