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There are 12 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Poll results for dmcnews
From: dmcnews
2. Poll results for dmcnews
From: dmcnews
3. Poll results for dmcnews
From: dmcnews
4. Car #501 (WAS: "Black" DeLoreans)
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Auto tranny problems!
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
6. Re: Auto tranny problems!
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Re: Cold start problems
From: wilhelm starberg <wilm@xxxxxxx>
8. Headlight problems still...
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
9. how fast was vin#502 twin turbo prototype
From: "snextime" <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
10. dangers removing epoxy
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
11. brake runout specs
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
12. Re: parking brake dragging too much?
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: 22 Dec 2001 02:18:31 -0000
From: dmcnews
Subject: Poll results for dmcnews
The following dmcnews poll is now closed. Here are the
final results:
POLL QUESTION: Manufacturing of new torsionbars: How
important is it for you that new LH
torsionbars should be manufactured as
soon as possible and regardless of
price?
CHOICES AND RESULTS
- Very important, I might need one!, 6 votes, 35.29%
- Not important for me at all!, 11 votes, 64.71%
- I have a spare! :-), 0 votes, 0.00%
- Not important, I'll do it the Bricklin way if mine breaks!, 0 votes,
0.00%
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Message: 2
Date: 22 Dec 2001 02:18:35 -0000
From: dmcnews
Subject: Poll results for dmcnews
The following dmcnews poll is now closed. Here are the
final results:
POLL QUESTION: DeLorean DVD: Would you be interested
in buying a quality copy (picture and
sound) of the DeLorean LIVE THE DREAM
Commercials and Dealers Investors film
on DVD?
CHOICES AND RESULTS
- Yes, definitely!, 11 votes, 57.89%
- No, not interested!, 1 votes, 5.26%
- Depends on the price!, 7 votes, 36.84%
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Message: 3
Date: 22 Dec 2001 02:18:42 -0000
From: dmcnews
Subject: Poll results for dmcnews
The following dmcnews poll is now closed. Here are the
final results:
POLL QUESTION: IF the DeLorean was to be re-produced,
and you wanted a new one, would it be:
Of stainless steel only? Or stainless
but with metallic paint? Please also
choose color!
CHOICES AND RESULTS
- Stainless steel only!, 17 votes, 70.83%
- Stainless but with metallic paint:, 2 votes, 8.33%
- White, 0 votes, 0.00%
- Black, 1 votes, 4.17%
- Green , 0 votes, 0.00%
- Yellow , 1 votes, 4.17%
- Pink , 0 votes, 0.00%
- Purple, 0 votes, 0.00%
- Red, 1 votes, 4.17%
- Brown, 0 votes, 0.00%
- Gold, 0 votes, 0.00%
- Grey, 0 votes, 0.00%
- Blue, 1 votes, 4.17%
- Beige, 0 votes, 0.00%
- Mintgreen, 0 votes, 0.00%
- Silver (!), 0 votes, 0.00%
- Copper, 1 votes, 4.17%
- Crimson, 0 votes, 0.00%
- Harlequin a la VW (each panel/door painted in a different color, almost
like a rainbow!, 0 votes, 0.00%
- Stars and Stripes ;-), 0 votes, 0.00%
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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 10:38:55 -0500
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Car #501 (WAS: "Black" DeLoreans)
As I said in my previous message, my information on #501 may be
incorrect.
-----Original Message-----
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx [mailto:deloreanernst@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2001 10:35 AM
> The car I believe to be 501 is still around (the VIN plate is
missing).
>
Both VIN plates are missing...? Door frame and at lead edge of
dashboard?
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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 12:04:02 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Auto tranny problems!
Adam,
>The governor is mounted external of the transmission,
I just have to remove the right whell right?
You mean the right wheel? No. It isn't in the way. And yes, the module
unbolts from the passenger side of the tranny.
>Do I have to open the transmission at all to remove the governor, or does
it
just unplug?
This question has two answers. If you want to remove the entire computer
governor assembly then yes you will need to drop the pan. You would do it
this way if you bought a new computer governor assembly and were
installing
all of it. But if you only want replace the bad capacitors then it is not
necessary to drop the pan. The part you need to access unbolts from the
side of the transmission. Then you need to unthread and disconnect the
cables that go up to the other part of the computer governor assembly
which
is mounted on the firewall.
>Has anyone else made Mark's fixes to their tranny comps?
I opted to replace my computer governor assembly with a better designed
one
from PJ Grady. I went this route because at the time I didn't have any
clear instructions on what all needed to be done to upgrade the old
module.
If I were doing it again, I would fix my old module and save a few hundred
dollars. My next tranny project is to replace it with a Porsche 4 speed
Tiptronic.)
>If so what kind of capacitors did you use and where did you get them?
They are common parts available at Radio Shack. The higher the voltage
rating the better (within reason). If you search the DML archives, you
will
find plenty of info on all of this. Otherwise let me know and I'll e-mail
you some of the same text that I keep on my hard drive (if I can find it).
While you are into it, it would be a good idea to install some shunting
diodes across where the shift solenoids could throw spikes into the
computer
governor electronics. This info is also in the archives.
>Thanks, Adam 16683 damn automatic
You're welcome, Walt 03633 "blessed" automatic
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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 17:05:34 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Auto tranny problems!
Follow all of Mark's advice. Pay particular attention to replacing the
"caps" and resoldering all of the joints to eliminate any possibility
of cold solder joints. Worst case you might have to replace some of
the transistors but most of the time replcaing the caps and
resoldering will "fix" it or at least get it going. If you are patient
and have a few extra bucks we might soon have a Transzilla available.
In the meantime Mark's tips will get you going again. Be very careful
not to drive too fast in 2nd gear as mechanical damage caused by a
defective govenor will require you to rebuild your transmission. Test
the downshift switch and wiring to make sure it isn't forcing you into
2nd gear.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Adam Price" <acprice1@xxxx> wrote:
> Today my car would not shift out of 2nd gear. I have had
transmission
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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 18:30:41 +0100
From: wilhelm starberg <wilm@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Cold start problems
21.12.01 05:55:45, "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>I think you have two separate problems here. The first is in the
>starter system as it should crank strong without stopping. The other
>is an idle quality problem probably related to the fuel system but I
>can't rule out a problem in the ignition secondary.
> For the starter problem if it is an early vin there is a wiring
>change you must do. If that isn't the trouble then load test the
>battery and clean all of the big connections from the battery to the
>starter including all ground connections. If the problem still exists
>it could be the starter relay although that is rare.
> Fot the idle problem check ALL of the vacuum hoses, a vacuum leak
>will drastically affect idle quality. A defective control pressure
>regulater could also cause these symptoms. If the car hasn't had a
>tune-up in a long time now might be a good time as worn plugs and bad
>wires could also cause these symptoms. There could also be other
>things to check out as there are some temperature sensitive switches
>that are involved with warm-up. Most owners aren't trying to start
>their "D"'s when it'S THAT COLD!!!!
Yeah, I know - I am going to test how the DeLorean works in a cold
climate this winter - I got my winter tires today, with spikes.
The biggest problem so far is shifting gear when it's below -5 ° C , the
oil gets really thick.
> I hope you mean "O" degrees celsius!
Yes - but it is not that unusal to have 0 degrees fahrenheit up here.
I would like to thank everyone for their help - I'm going to try to fix
the problem
during the holidays.
Regards,
Wilhelm Starberg
VIN #10816 - Norway
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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 14:18:00 EST
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
Subject: Headlight problems still...
I just cannot seem to get access to those darn screws to replace my light.
What I'm wondering is how hard it is to just remove the front fascia so I
can get to the darn thing. I have already made nick in it on the inside
near the light trying to get screws out, so apparently I'm going to have
to do this the hard way.
I'm going to contact a local owner who I hope will be able to help me, but
is there anything anyone can tell me in advance that will help? I am
desperate here.
Thank you for anything,
Richard
(who now realizes, in conjunction with my Ford Escort, that changing a
light bulb is not always as easy as you think it SHOULD be!)
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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 03:49:44 -0000
From: "snextime" <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: how fast was vin#502 twin turbo prototype
i was wondering how fast was the prototype twin turbo in the 1/4 mile?
also did anybody win the auction for this car on ebay?
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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 23:22:26 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: dangers removing epoxy
Be careful when chipping away loose epoxy from the frame. I just learned
the hard way that some of the edges are extremely sharp. It cut my finger
pretty bad.
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 23:22:36 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: brake runout specs
Question 1: What is the maximum allowable brake runout on the rotors? I'm
almost to the point of putting the car back on the ground, but I've
noticed
that both my new rear rotors appear to have around 1mm wobble inside the
calipers. This seems to be excessive to me, but I would like to know
anyone
else's opinion.
Question 2: Will moderate rotor runout cause premature wear to the
calipers?
Before I took the system apart, I had an annoying amount of steering wheel
shake as I applied the brakes. I figured that the calipers were toast
anyway with the sludge I had for brake fluid. But with new calipers all
around, I don't want to mess them up.
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 23:24:24 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: parking brake dragging too much?
For those of you who care to know, I posted some questions earlier, but no
one answered them. Since then I have figured out the answer for myself.
This isn't mentioned in any of the manuals, so Wayne, if you are reading
this take notes for your new manuals project.
> Is there some sort of adjustment
> that I haven't noticed to loosen the emergency brake pads so that they
don't
> touch the rotor?
Yes. When I put on my new parking brake pads, some of them didn't even
have
enough room to slip in between the rotor and the caliper. On the front
edge
of the assembly there is a large adjustment screw, but at first glance it
doesn't look like an adjustment. It is the large screw that holds the two
halves together at the front. The slot where you stick a screwdriver to
tighten/loosen it is filled in with a cotter pin to stop it from
loosening.
So to make this adjustment you will need to remove this cotter pin.
Walt Tampa, FL
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