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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: frequency valve again
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
2. Re: "New Owner Documentation"
From: "Ed Garbade" <garbadee@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. New owner questions
From: "Payne" <bpayne@xxxxxxxxxx>
4. RE: Correct Tire Pressure in BAR?
From: "Michael C. Babb" <michael@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Image of the DeLorean/Startup Manual
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
6. New DeLorean Tech site
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
7. Fuel Pump Noise Cured!
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
8. Re: To all that know better about electricity and how to treat a first time poster...
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
9. Re: To all that know ... electricity (political, kinda long)
From: "Mike Thomas" <comptrol@xxxxxxx>
10. Tranmition Oil Change
From: dmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
11. Post problem
From: Watkins Family <watbmv@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: "New Owner Documentation"
From: "sk1pper" <sk1pper@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. 2 page Delorean article in AMI Auto World this month
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Radio wiring - Need more help!
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
15. whether an upgrade/repair has been installed.
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
16. Skipper response
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Passports for Ireland
From: kkoncelik@xxxxxxx
18. RE: PLANING FOR A DELOREAN
From: "Wright, Ryan (LW)" <Ryan.Wright@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: "New Owner Documentation"
From: Dick & Leslie Ryan <raddad@xxxxxxx>
20. fuel pressure problems
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
21. RE: New DeLorean Tech site
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
22. Re: New DeLorean Tech site
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
23. Re: Image of the DeLorean/Startup Manual
From: Trevor L Johnson <comet4055@xxxxxxxx>
24. First Drive - Happy Hour!
From: "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway@xxxxxxxxxxx>
25. Re: Fuel Pump Noise Cured!
From: Dick & Leslie Ryan <raddad@xxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 04:48:56 -0000
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: frequency valve again
Jim, The FV pulse ratio is controlled by the Lambda unit and the 02
sensor after the warm up and the thermal switch has been enabled. If
what your saying about the vaccuum hoses is correct, then the 02 has
probably been contaminated beyond repair and needs to be replaced.The
FV should be running at idle to lessen the fuel pressure in the lower
chamber to run leaner. But: is the engine hot or cold. If it's cold
it's going to run rich. Crank it up and go out and drive it till it
gets hot. Then listen to the FV and maby some of the contaminates may
burn off the 02.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxx> wrote:
> I recently started working on my car again, and got some more
strange
> running results.. Before, when the key was turned to the 'on'
position, the
> frequency valve would buzz and buzz and not stop. NOW, it's
buzzing for
> about a second, and stopping. What is it supposed to do? If it's
supposed
> to keep buzzing, does anyone guess why mine is not?
>
> I've been fighting with another problem- running rich. I just
recently
> found that 4 of my vaccuum lines were hooked up incorrectly- the
fuel
> pressure regulator was hooked (at the T) to the manifold, the hose
the
> regulator should be hooked to was connected to the distributor's
spark
> advance, and the other two hoses coming out from under the air
intake were
> connected to the solenoid. Who would have created this
debauchery!!? Also
> the power to the pressure regulator was disconnected. having
hooked that
> all back up, it still runs as bad as ever... billowing black smoke
comes out
> the exhaust.. If the frequency valve is not working while running
(can't
> tell, there's only one of me and the car won't idle at all), could
it cause
> the car to run so rich?
>
> thanks for the help...
> Jim
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 23:49:43 -0500
From: "Ed Garbade" <garbadee@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: "New Owner Documentation"
As a slightly different angle on this post, I would find it useful to have a
reference that tells me what to look for to determine whether an
upgrade/repair has been installed.
As an example (and please feel free to correct me if I am in error since I
have only had my D for 2 weeks): Look in the driver front wheel well to see
if the line for the manual clutch system has been upgraded. If the line is
rubber replace with part number XYZ.
Still haven't found out how to determine if I have the relay "upgrade" yet
(where or what to look for).
Ed Garbade
10541
----- Original Message -----
From: <senatorpack@xxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 7:58 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] "New Owner Documentation"
>
>
> The suggestion of a password or controlled entry is a little paranoid
> don't you think? So who's paranoid?
> If you reread my message, I offer an alternative solution to the
"problem
> web page." My suggestion is backed up by Wayne the manual guy in New
Jersey,
> as he suggests the same.
> INSTEAD of making a web page devoted to problems, make a page about what
> parts have been superseded by updated parts that the vendors supply. The
> first part that I think about is the window motors. Secondly the clutch.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 22:20:12 -0800
From: "Payne" <bpayne@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: New owner questions
I would like to thank everyone who replied to my previous posting about
being a new owner with questions. I'm new to the list and I don't want to
bring up the same issues that have probably been covered and re-covered
again. But I want to take care of the car as best as I can. I'm only
eighteen, but owning this car has been my dream since I was a small boy.
These cars are absolutely beautiful and it's great to see such a loyal
following of people who appreciate the works of art they are. Too many
people give these cars a bad reputation for being unreliable, but I think
most have held up better than many other 20 or so year old cars.
Thanks again for your time and I absolutely LOVE my new car!
Brandon Payne
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 00:34:27 -0500
From: "Michael C. Babb" <michael@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Correct Tire Pressure in BAR?
Stian,
Check out http://www.processassociates.com/process/convert/cf_prs.htm There
you can convert from PSI (Pounds per square inch) to BAR (whatever the heck
that is).
Just to give you an idea:
30 lbf/in2 (psi) EQUALS 2.068427188 bar
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: Stian Birkeland [mailto:dmc_norway@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2001 7:30 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Correct Tire Pressure in BAR?
Living in Europe I was wondering what is the correct tire pressure for the
DeLorean. The manual talks about PSI, but over here we measure it in BAR.
So...what are the correct tire pressure in BAR?
Please advise,
Best wishes
Stian Birkeland
Norway
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 05:18:37 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Image of the DeLorean/Startup Manual
A manual on how to correct/watch out for quirks on the DeLorean is
more then a good idea. It has become an overdue concept.
I understand where Mike Pack was comming from when he suggested a
more "gentle" title. Although I don't believe that there should be
any concern about giving the marquee a bad reputation. The DeLorean
is a car that you will either fall in total love with, or you'll just
walk on by. So to be cynical about things, the opinions of those who
do not care for the car couldn't get much worse then they already
are. Those who will end up purchasing DeLorean's are the people who
are not fooled by unfound and negative opinions of the ignorant.
Which brings up another concern, monetary value. Most, if not all of
us here, acquired D's for our personal enjoyment rather then an
investment. A DeLorean shouldn't be considered an investment. This
isn't because our cars don't hold value, it's just that classic cars
in general are not sound investments. But I too do recognize that
situations can arise where someone may choose to sell their car for
whatever reason. And as to be expected, everyone here would want a
premium price for their car if that time came. The answer is not
keeping the cars hidden. All that does is scare people, and does more
damage if someone buys a car and runs into problems that they don't
expect. With the exception of original owners, who here who has
purchased a DeLorean didn't ever feel overwhelmed in those first 4-5
months of ownership? The differance of us keeping our cars vs.
selling them was not only courage, but knowlege as well. As the DML
has progressed over the years that I've been a member, I've seen less
repeat postings for certain issues that were considered "hereditary"
to the car. Less and less are the postings of issues with the trans
governor, broken window regulators, ill closing doors, electrical
problems, and most importantly, engine fires. These problems are
common to the marquee, but not the car. In other words there isn't
anything wrong with the engineering of the car, but there are some
precautions that should be taken when performing repairs (i.e. copper
fuel seals). The DML as a place to exchange both information on
current parts, and ideas for future ones is what has helped to make
the DeLorean that much more enjoyable. Before I joined the DML, I had
never even done an oil change on a car, let alone rebuild my clutch
hydrolics as I did last month. If people see things such as how-to's
on repairs for the car, they will not be scared away. I would rather
see someone who is not comfortable with owning a DeLorean pass one up
rather then purchasing it and becoming miserable with thier ownership
experience. If a person is not prepared to give the car the
maintenance it deserves, then they should not buy the car. This is
just as true for DeLoreans as it is any other car on the road. So
rather then devaluing DeLoreans, we're actually increasing their
value by way of setting a standard. Which is exactly what one of the
intentions of a guide for new owners will accomplish.
A start up/new owner guide can help to make the D an even more
reliable car then it currently is by way of creating a standard that
it should meet. This would greatly boot confidence in the car for
both current and future owners. By creating a list of common items
that can weaken over time/wear and need replacement, repair, tuning,
adjustment, and even lubrication, the random occurance of specific
items failing will be greatly reduced. And to inform owners of
things like precautionary actions while performing repairs and such.
If we can help to stop problems before they start, the DeLorean will
reach a "maintenance only" state much quicker. This in turn will
boost the confidence of the car to create an even better image, any
relationship with our cars.
In the mean time, lets all work together to help out each other with
our cars. _expression_ is good, but along with that freedom that we
have here on the DML should come the responsibility of courtesy.
-Robert
vin 6585
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 01:09:11 EST
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
Subject: New DeLorean Tech site
In a message dated 3/27/01 9:51:32 PM Eastern Standard Time,
delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
<< There also appears to be no more than a handful of subscribers
taking part in the discussion regarding a 'newbi' corner of the list. I'm
wondering if this is better taken to private emails between those folks
until something concrete surfaces from all of this. >>
Okay, let's take this out of the clouds and give it legs.
There IS a new DeLorean Tech site called DMCTech already set up and ready to
meet this need, and more. I'll give you the URL below. Like dmcnews, it's a
free yahoo group. The aim is to provide a repository for DeLorean tech info
ONLY. Something like the DML files, but a lot more narrowly focused, edited,
compiled and categorized.
I set it up last September. So how come you never heard of it? Because I've
been so heavily involved in the New DeLorean Manuals Project that I haven't
had time to roll it out. So I've never publicized it before this. But with
the current interest, now is the time!
What's in the database? Nothing! Nobody knows it's there...until now. So
here's a great opener: let's open it up with the "Newbie" issues. I see
four categories:
* Should I buy a DeLorean (for the tire kickers... roll out your happy
stories here!)
* What should I look for when shopping for a DeLorean
* To-do checklist after buying a regularly maintained daily driver
* To-do checklist after buying a long-stored or neglected DeLorean
The problem with the last two questions is that they would be a lot better
dealt with if there was an accurate, complete, up to date service manual to
refer back to. Which I'm working toward. And the service manual would be a
lot better dealt with if there was an accurate, complete, up to date parts
and assembly manual to refer back to. Which I'm also working on. Which
explains why DMCTech is still empty. Until now, I considered it easier to do
at the end than the beginning. But with help, we can get a highly usable
resource up to speed even before the new manuals come out. Some of the
contributions can even be funnelled into the final service manual, where
applicable.
How does the site work? Go to it and check it out. The address is:
http:/groups.yahoo.com/group/DMCTech Put it in your address book.
If you have an interest in tech issues, I encourage, no, I urge you to sign
up. After all, it's free, just like the DML. Then, when you post a tech
message to the DML, send a copy to DMCTech as well, at
DMCTech@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx I'll plug it in.
DMCTech was inspired by the DML. It won't replace or compete with the DML,
nor could it. I see it as a useful annex... a tech toolbox. Let's put some
tools in that toolbox!
Wayne A. Ernst
vin 11174
Moderator, DMCTech
Editor,The New DeLorean Manuals Project
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 09:13:35 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Fuel Pump Noise Cured!
[ moderator's note: It's been said many times already but DISCONNECT the battery before working in the fuel tank areas. ]
A while ago the topic of the fuel pump getting noisy when hot was
brought up again. The problem was identified as a colapsing pickup
hose that connects from between the prefilter screen in the baffle to
the pump itself. The hose is made of soft rubber which becomes softer
still when hot. Many fellow DMLer's posted responses with various
solutions on how to help quiet the noise, but nothing to prevent the
hose from fully colapsing. In one of the postings David Teitelbaum
mentioned the insertion of a spring into the hose. Through a few
private e-mails with David, he explained to me what parts he used,
and how. After installing the hose, I finally got the chance to test
it, and it does work!
On an 89° day, with less than ¼ tank of gas, the pump ran silent, and
the car did not hesitate once! My car was also run up and down some
steep hills. Steep enough that the needle on my gas gague bottomed
out at 0. I need put put this (along with some other items) into a
write up(s) for the technical library. I'll see about it this
weekend, but just incase I don't get to it, here's the quick run-
thru. I'll put the full details in later.
The spring is a screen door type available from Home Depot. Size is:
9/16"x16-1/2"x .054.
1. Drain the fuel tank (run a siphon hose under the trunk, out from
the right wheel well for best results).
2. Disconnect the pickup hose from the fuel pump.
3. Remove the pickup hose and the entire baffle.
Note: On my car the filter screen on the pickup hose has a barb
attached to it. But the barb is attached to the screen assembly with
some sort of resin. Durring the removal of the baffle, the resin
crumbled. Needless to say I now have debries at the bottom of my gas
tank. Take caution.
4. Clean the baffle and the pickup hose (or use new hose).
5. Using some heavy wire cutters, cut the spring a little shorter
then the hose stretched out. Measure the hose from between both 90°
elbows on the ends.
6. Place the spring into the freezer, and soak the hose in some hot
water for about 2 minutes.
7. Take some dishwashing liquid and pour it into the hose. Rotate to
coat.
8. This will take a little time, and a lot of patience. Slide the
spring into the pickup hose. As you progress you'll need to pour a
little more soap into the hose, and also reheat the hose again in
some hot water. Try not to get any soap on your hands to keep a good
grip. Plus don't get burned. Once the spring is about ¾-½" from the
end, pull it through with some needle nose pliers.
9. Pull the spring to strech it out, then cut off what you don't
want, and tuck the rest in. Do this on both sides, and bend the sharp
end of the spring into the center of the hose.
10. Flush the hose with cold water for about 20 minutes.
11. Reassemble the baffle
Note: If you have a difficult time getting the hose to silde back in
thru the rubber gromet, use a little soap again. Just wash with cold
water again for 20 minutes.
12. Dry the hose (and baffle if applicable).
Note: The fuel tank is not something that you want to always open up.
Especially if you need to access the baffle (if you've come this far,
you now know why). So you will want to replace the prefilter screen.
Since the old one had that crumbling resin all over, I decided to
just use a generic replacement from Car Quest. A different shape, but
still fit in the bafle. Bondo makes a product called Marine Epoxy. It
comes in a putty form, and is resistant to gasoline. Use this to
affix/seal the barb to the filter. Attach the filer when the hose is
dry.
13. Reinstall the baffle and seal the gas tank (it is possible to
insert the baffle when fully assembled. I'll post how to do that
later...).
14. Filler' up and you're ready to go!
I'll post the more intricate details for some of the instrucitons
above in the Technical Library write up. Many thanks to David
Teitelbaum who had the idea of the spring. I am very happy with the
results. My fuel pump no longer buzzes, my car doesn't hesitate when
low on gas, and accelleration has improved slightly.
This summer I'll put the spring and the heavy duty radiator to the
test. I'll be driving the DeLorean to down into Death Valley and then
back up the grade to Rhyolite. I figure if the D can survive the 2nd
hottest place on earth, then I've got no worries!
-Robert
vin 6585
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 05:32:26 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: To all that know better about electricity and how to treat a first time poster...
If the alternator had given out and the car was only running on the
battery alone...and the battery meter read "0"....you wouldn't get
very far at all, The car would stall.
If the battery had any type of short (internally/externally) You
would definitely smell the battery fumes from the short.
90% of battery failures in automobiles are due to the fact that the
plates in the cells "disintegrate" over time. As they come apart the
particles settle to the bottom of the battery. As this builds up it
soon comes in contact with the good portion of the plates causing an
internal short. When this happens, if your lucky to start the car the
first time, I doubt you will be able to start the car next time. Some
battery "Refurb" places take old batteries and flush them out to
remove these deposits to eliminate the shorting problem.
The fact remains here that the Idea of removing the battery wire to
test the alternators output was wrong. Every alternator has a voltage
regulator. Some with them built internally some that have them
externally. If the battery load is not present at all the alternator
will begin to output it's maximum amount of voltage that it can. The
reason for this is to charge the battery and to supply the car with
enough power while doing so until the battery begins to hold a charge
and levels off. If it continues to output this Max voltage, you can
seriously harm the sensitive electronics in any car and fry the
alternator. Next time you go and change an alternator, read that
little red sticker that comes on every alternator that
states "Failure to have a fully charged battery before installing can
cause damage to the alternator and/or vehicle electrical system"
(those may not be the EXACT words...but similar). Everyone jumped in
like that after your post because that was a dangerous diagnostic and
if that owner had tried it...they would have risked damaging
something on their car.
To properly test the alternator on a car you need a load tester.
Harborfreight.com has one they sell for less than $30. Here's the
link to the unit,
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/taf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=6317
If for some reason that link doesn't work just go to their website
and do a search on item number 6317-2VGA.
Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "sk1pper" <sk1pper@xxxx> wrote:
> First I'd like to say to all that have slammed me over the
alternator post I gave, know what you are saying and to whom you are
saying it before you open your mouth as it were. I will give you
credit that you probably know more about Deloreans than I, but you
probably do not know more about electricity or low voltage systems.
>
> Second. As a new member of this board, it is not very
comforting to see such hostility toward a post. If a post is wrong,
incorrect, or misleading then kindly respond to the message. The
slamming is not indicative of a friendly chat room. I will continue
to read the messages posted, but this will more than likely be my
last post.
>
> Now, lets clear the air here and state the facts and allow me
to respond to your comments.
>
> The problem, as I understood it was that the battery meter was not
reading any voltage. Four things come to mind at this point.
> a.. One, the installation of the Tankzilla was not performed
correctly.
> b.. Two, the battery has a damaged cell(s) causing a direct
short.
> c.. Three, the alternator is not producing a charge and the car
is running off the battery only.
<Snip>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 01:45:16 -0500
From: "Mike Thomas" <comptrol@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: To all that know ... electricity (political, kinda long)
(original message texts deleted)
We are all continuously bombarded with information on a daily basis that
varies significantly as to its truth and merit. An essential indicator of
success in life, (i.e. survival in non-humans) is the need to be able to
discriminate the good information from the bad.
I think it's great that so many different perspectives are always offerred
in response to an individual question or thought. Any long-time member of
this list can see that the solutions offerred here are individual, based on
individual experiences, and individual levels of knowledge. All postings
must be considered not as free-standing absolute truth, but must be looked
at with regard to particular circumstances, accidental omissions, and so
forth.
What I would ask is that we spend a little more time on interpreting one
another's reponses and a little less time trying to belittle or one-up each
other. We are all alike here; either admirers or owners of Deloreans. As
an owner, I feel justified in saying we're all weirdos in at least this one
common way. Let's try to help each other rather than p!$$ each other off.
I read some but not all of this thread, but I felt the need to comment
because this type of situation seems to occur fairly often and always leads
to a multitude of irrelevant responses and counter-responses. I'd love to
think that with this letter I can convince us all (including me) not to
engage in these counter-productive attacks. We get a lot of DML mail
already - let's all try to make it count.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 12:53:32 -0000
From: dmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Tranmition Oil Change
How do you change the transmition oil and how often should it be
done? I realise there are 2 sump plugs under the transmition unit
(Automatic) but I assume one of these is the automatic transmition
fluid and one is the transmition oil, but which is wich, I don't want
to drain the wrong one.
What oil do you put in the transmition and where do you fill it from ?
Also is it advisable to change the transmition fluid? I have been
told that auto transmition fluid is only really changed if the
automatic transmition is regularly being put under allot of strain
ie. when towing a big trailer.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Regards
James RG
P.S. I am going to be upgrading my site to a video site which I will
place downloadable videos of me doing work on my Delorean, would
people be interested in being able to download short 2-3 minute clips
of say fixing the fuel sender unit, and more basic items such as oil
changes?
Pictures are usefull but if I put videos on the site would this be of
interest to anyone. I often get pics sent to me when I ask a question
on the list but surley a video arcive would be the ultimate senario.
are people prepared to download 10MB files I will do all of the
projects as individual files so you can download the specific job you
are going to do. I would also ask others if they are willing to send
digitised video files to add to the site. this is just theoretical at
the moment but I hope to have at lease one video on the site by the
end of the month.
Opinions appreciated.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 08:23:24 -0500
From: Watkins Family <watbmv@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Post problem
Is anyone else havng a problem with posts that have sentences that are
too long and you must scroll over to read it? I just got a new computer
and I want to make sure it's not a list issue but rather my computer.
Most post keep all the text in a nice tight auto return looking format
but many have the sentences WAY too long.
Thanks
Tom
#005732
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 08:00:40 -0600
From: "sk1pper" <sk1pper@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: "New Owner Documentation"
look at you fuse panel area, if you have a silver relay with an "X" on it,
or you see a jumper wire with an in line fuse in it, you probably have had
the upgrade, if you dont see any of this, call DMC in houston,
www.usadmc.com , they sell the kit and can go in depth at what to look for!
heres the number
1800 usa-dmc1
happy hunting!!
Sk1pper
----- Original Message -----
From: Ed Garbade <garbadee@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 10:49 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] "New Owner Documentation"
> As a slightly different angle on this post, I would find it useful to have
a
> reference that tells me what to look for to determine whether an
> upgrade/repair has been installed.
>
> As an example (and please feel free to correct me if I am in error since I
> have only had my D for 2 weeks): Look in the driver front wheel well to
see
> if the line for the manual clutch system has been upgraded. If the line
is
> rubber replace with part number XYZ.
>
> Still haven't found out how to determine if I have the relay "upgrade" yet
> (where or what to look for).
>
> Ed Garbade
> 10541
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <senatorpack@xxxxxx>
> To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 7:58 PM
> Subject: Re: [DML] "New Owner Documentation"
>
>
> >
> >
> > The suggestion of a password or controlled entry is a little
paranoid
> > don't you think? So who's paranoid?
> > If you reread my message, I offer an alternative solution to the
> "problem
> > web page." My suggestion is backed up by Wayne the manual guy in New
> Jersey,
> > as he suggests the same.
> > INSTEAD of making a web page devoted to problems, make a page about what
> > parts have been superseded by updated parts that the vendors supply. The
> > first part that I think about is the window motors. Secondly the clutch.
>
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 09:09:47 -0500
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 2 page Delorean article in AMI Auto World this month
The April 10th edition of AMI Auto World has a 2 page article on page 82 about John Delorean. It is a fast recap of his history, and the car's history. Article is called "Delorean's Dream: The Rise and fall of the 'ethical sports car'" I am trying to find a scanner here at work so I can copy it from the magazines owner.
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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 09:50:25 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Radio wiring - Need more help!
Stian, Check out the web site now. I posted for you and others the diagram that shows the De Lorean diagram and the legends. I assummed everyone had it. If you need anything else, please let me know. You can also email me direct. You can see the color codes and where the wires come from and go to. Under wiring.
John Hervey
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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 11:18:20 EST
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
Subject: whether an upgrade/repair has been installed.
Dear DML, & Ed,
<< whether an
upgrade/repair has been installed. >>
I agree. Your idea is wonderful.
Mike
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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 08:36:39 -0800
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Skipper response
I never thought of disconnecting a battery cable with the engine running
so can't comment on that. Obviously, with your qualifications you have
much to impart, I hope you'll rethink not posting again. In the Marine
Corps, during WWII, when we were getting our butts kicked, we never
retreated, we would "fall back and regroup," I suggest you do the same.
Les
Ok Bruce, how about this version?
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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 12:00:21 EST
From: kkoncelik@xxxxxxx
Subject: Passports for Ireland
Just a note we sentin for a Passport for my wife three weeks ago and it
arrived Yesterday
exactly 3 weeks
Ken
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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 09:01:37 -0800
From: "Wright, Ryan (LW)" <Ryan.Wright@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: PLANING FOR A DELOREAN
>> The deal w/CD-RW is their is no standard amongst
>> manufacturers so the compression technology is typically not compatible
with
>> anything except the device that created it.
This is incorrect. CD-RW is a standard. The issue is that rewritable discs
require a more powerful laser due to reduced reflectivity, so the drive must
be capable of adjusting the laser's power settings based on the media (CDR
or CDRW). If you put data on a CDRW you can use it in any drive that
supports CDRWs. Almost all cd burners will read/write CDRWs, and most newer
CD-ROMs will also read them. Older CD-ROM drives and most audio players will
not read them.
To respond to another post on this subject: You can in fact put audio tracks
on a CDRW, however, you won't be able to listen to them in any regular CD
player unless it specifically supports CDRW. You'd have to listen to them
with a computer.
- Ryan Wright, MCP (ryan.wright@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx)
- Web Operations Analyst
- Lamb-Weston, Inc.
-----Original Message-----
From: doctor who [mailto:ohwrd@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 1:56 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: [DML] PLANING FOR A DELOREAN
Most units will play CD-R. The deal w/CD-RW is their is no standard amongst
manufacturers so the compression technology is typically not compatible with
anything except the device that created it. Besides you dont want to put
music on CD-RW, CD-R's are cheaper.
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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 10:20:11 -0700
From: Dick & Leslie Ryan <raddad@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: "New Owner Documentation"
> Is it the long winter, my imagination, something in the water?????
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Bruce - it must be all three. We have had long winters before. Water purity
is a nationwide problem. And, while you ARE Scandinavian, you do have a BIT of
imagination.
Having said that, I agree with your comments. The only suggestion I can offer
is to become a heavy handed moderator. (Boy, will that start a new thread!).
Dick Ryan (a former moderator)
VIN 16867
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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 13:15:18 -0500 (EST)
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: fuel pressure problems
(formerly subject: frequency valve again)
When I fixed the wires to the fuel pressure regulator and hooked the vaccuum
hoses back up, the engine ran richer. I've been turning and turning the CO
screw closed, but when it reaches a point where it's not spewing black smoke
anymore, the car will not idle or run at all below 4000RPM.
I can not 'take it out for a drive'... the engine does not run well enough
by itself...
Is there a way I can ensure the spark advance is working/getting vaccuum?
Besides checking timing- of course... I'm pretty sure my timing plate is not
stock, and am unsure of it's usefulness...
I just replaced the O2 sensor- I was uncertain of the old one's condition,
and figured it needed to be changed anyway...
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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 13:13:13 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: New DeLorean Tech site
Here is the correct address for DMCTECH.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DMCTech
Scott Mueller
DMCNEWS 002981
DOA 5031
Subject: [DML] New DeLorean Tech site
In a message dated 3/27/01 9:51:32 PM Eastern Standard Time,
delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
There IS a new DeLorean Tech site called DMCTech already set up and ready to
meet this need, and more. I'll give you the URL below. Like dmcnews, it's a
free yahoo group. The aim is to provide a repository for DeLorean tech info
ONLY. Something like the DML files, but a lot more narrowly focused,
edited,
compiled and categorized.
Wayne A. Ernst
vin 11174
Moderator, DMCTech
Editor,The New DeLorean Manuals Project
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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 11:28:08 -0800
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: New DeLorean Tech site
Fine by me Wayne, nothing of what I envision was out there 2 months ago when I
needed it, had to really dig. Just had in mind making it easier for the next
folks.
If you can work in a newbie section and get it going that would be great. I
think I mentioned things like leather treatment, what product, what's leather and
what isn't, how do you raise the car, what to do with the tail light assembly and
what the screwdriver is, how to remove the radio and the door panels, the engine
cover spring, how the idle system works, where is the vault, how do you get into
it, etc. etc. As to getting it on line, would probably take me about a week to
work out content with checking and cross checking but shoot, you're the ideal one
base upon all of your efforts to date, I bow to a superior idea. Let's get those
legs moving!
Les
deloreanernst@xxxxxxx wrote:
> In a message dated 3/27/01 9:51:32 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
>
> << There also appears to be no more than a handful of subscribers
> taking part in the discussion regarding a 'newbi' corner of the list. I'm
> wondering if this is better taken to private emails between those folks
> until something concrete surfaces from all of this. >>
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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 11:52:43 -0800
From: Trevor L Johnson <comet4055@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Image of the DeLorean/Startup Manual
I was trying to stay out of replying to this, because I generally just
get into arguments by posting,
Mr. Pack, I agree with you 100%,
The thing I think you should look at is Both DMC Houston
http://www.usadmc.com/files/report.pdf ( or at least did at some point)
and The DOA, http://www.delorean-owners.org/legend/tips.html Have
something similar. They give you basic information on what should be
checked on the car, before you purchase it. I understand that these are
not exactly what you are talking about, but they are none the less,
similar. And despite the fact that many people do own their cars for fun,
I don't think any of you would object to making money when you might have
to sell you car. You have to watch what you say.
My point: If this does come about, please don't have the thing just list
problems, Just mention that the prospective owner/ New owner with
problems should check these certain places, (i.e. don't just say that
every cars clutch line will snap and you must replace it with an after
market one, because no two cars are exactly the same, so don't make
generalizations if you don't have to)
Trevor Johnson
DMC #'s 4055 and 6974
www.geocities.com/dmc6974
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Message: 24
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 20:11:30
From: "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: First Drive - Happy Hour!
Today was the first day of 2001 I had my car outside and driven. The snow is
long gone here in the southern part of Norway, and today the weather was
sunny. Last weekend + Monday and Tuesday, I did a few things to get my
DeLorean ready for spring and of course the drive from Norway to England to
get to EUROFEST in May.
I installed the battery saver from DMC Joe (Plug and Play, not plug and
pray! ;-) ) With good help from my online friends Warren and Stephen at DMC
Houston together with Jan van de Wouw (Netherlands) and Ralf Phillip
(Germany), I finally was able to sort out my wiring problems and clean up
the mess from the previous owner(s). I now have a Sony CD-player with green
illumination (perfect), but I will keep the Craig in my DMC memorabilia
collection just for nostalgia.
Today I drove my DeLorean again - as always a great car! It has never left
me stranded yet, and hopefully never will!
It still handles so well, and is such a joy to drive!
Again, I love seeing the jaws drop on people looking/staring at the car and
pointing. You can see everyone is excited of that "futuristic car".
Is it just me or does anyone else on this list feel the same? I mean
whenever I get out of the car, opening the gullwing doors, I automatically
get a big smile on my face...and yes, the smile is also there even if there
is not people looking.
The DeLorean is a cute car which really makes my day. If I'm in a bad mood,
I just go out for a drive and come back as a new person.
So there you go, just a little report from "over here", I think the DML
should have more positive postings of our experiences with the D! It is so
special, and so are everyone here on the list, always helpful and really
caring! Keep up the good work, the DeLorean will live on forever and give
new dreams to the next generation.
Best wishes
Stian Birkeland
Norway
VIN #06759
(Yes, the VIN is supposed to be written with 5 digits, not the last 4!)
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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 13:11:39 -0700
From: Dick & Leslie Ryan <raddad@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump Noise Cured!
Wow! What a neat idea. If this really does work as hoped, it is on a par with a number of other wonderful aftermarket
products that have made the DeLorean an even better car. Anyone who has driven their DeLorean in hot summer weather with
less than a half a tank of gas has certainly experienced the HUMMMMMM to one degree or another and would love to get rid of
it.
Though not terribly complicated, a 7 thumbs person like me would probably find a way to really screw that process up. Isn't
there anybody out there who would tackle producing this (hint, hint, to the Midwest club, Joe, John, et.al).
Dick "7 thumbs" Ryan
VIN 16867
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