dmcnews-digest Monday, July 20 1998 Volume 03 : Number 390
In this issue:
DML: Epoxy Rustproofing of Frame (was: Desperately Seeking DMC)
DML: Torsion bar allen wrench size
Re: DML: Parts cross reference
Re: DML: Parts cross reference
Re: DML: Desperately seeking DMC
DML: Stainless Steel Terror.... Help
Re: DML: Parts cross reference
DML: Re: Heat wave; Was: Parts cross reference
Re: DML: Hot weather DeLorean driving (was: Parts cross
Re: DML: Re: Heat wave; Was: Parts cross reference
DML: Pressure Regulator
DML: Fuel part
DML: Cross-Ref, why
Re: DML: Hot weather DeLorean driving (was: Parts cross
DML: DOC Website
RE: DML: Hot weather
Re: DML: Hot weather DeLorean driving (was: Parts cross
DML: Apparent cracked exhaust manifold....
Re: DML: Parts cross reference
DML: WTB DMC-12 in Florida
Re: DML: Apparent cracked exhaust manifold....
Re: DML: Hot weather
Re: DML: Apparent cracked exhaust manifold....
DML: High Center!
RE: DML: Hot weather
DML: Re: Parts cross reference
DML: Re: steering column
Re: DML: Hot weather DeLorean driving (was: Parts cross
DML: Re: Torsion bar allen wrench size
DML: Re: Apparent cracked exhaust manifold....
Re: DML: Hot weather DeLorean driving (was: Parts cross
DML: On the road!
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 08:48:52 -0400
From: Mike Substelny <SUBSTEM@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Epoxy Rustproofing of Frame (was: Desperately Seeking DMC)
CBL302 said:
> The number one thing to check is THE FRAME,it was made from
> light steel,and was then epoxy coated,but on early cars they put
> it on to thick,and it cracked,causing moisture to get trapped,and
> causing the frame to rust.
Don't fool yourself into thinking that the later cars have it better than
the
earlier cars. The truth is, there will always be a problem with the epoxy
coating no matter how thick it is applied.
Most of the rustproofing in the world is done by applying a soft, plyable,
graesy coating to the steel under the car. You seldom see a rigid,
brittle
coating like the epoxy we have under our DeLoreans. The reason is that
the underside (frame or unibody) of any car must flex as it moves, and a
brittle coating that cannot flex with the frame will fracture.
If DMC decided that applying a thinner coat of epoxy would prevent
these fractures they were sadly mistaken. The only way to keep the
epoxy from cracking is to never move the car at all.
One thing about most types of epoxy: they start out with a little
flexibility
and they get more brittle with age. So our frames will probably see more
and more of these cracks in the coming years. The good news is that if
you apply some new epoxy to repair damaged areas it will probably last
a few years before it becomes as brittle as the old epoxy.
I predict that in 10-20 years we are all going to be considering buying
those stainless "PermaFrame" frames from Pearce Design.
- - Mike Substelny
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 8:38:12 -0600
From: Greg Guillot <gguillot@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Torsion bar allen wrench size
Does anyone know the size of the allen wrench required to adjust the
torsion bar tension on the doors? It looks like 10mm, and I would
like to know before I purchase the wrong size allen head socket.
There's nothing more frustrating than having to return to the store
for another tool when you are right in the middle of a repair job!
(Don't worry, I've taken all the precautions. It's a lot easier to do
with the louvers off of the car.)
************************************************
Morial Convention Center - New Orleans
Greg Guillot, Director of Info Systems & Services
900 Convention Center Blvd,New Orleans, LA 70130
Phone (504) 582-3116,Fax (504) 582-3104
Email gguillot@xxxxxxxxx
************************************************
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 10:40:53 -0400
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Parts cross reference
Agreed 100%!
Good thing you got this message so you could get some frost in the 100
degree heat..
What happened? Did Billy Bob work on your home air conditioner?
Note: I (and I assume James as well) do not mean to insult anyone on the
list who is named Billy Bob!
James Espey wrote:
>
> You know, nothing really frosts me like all these folks looking to cut a
> corner with a not always correct part. Parts prices for the DeLorean are
<SNIP>
> than a "might fit" or "close match" cross reference part. Is Billy Bob at
> XYZ Auto Parts going to tell you how to fit that Volvo water pump on your
> DeLorean (assuming he can pronounce "DeLorean")?
>
> If you nickel and dime the car, it will nickel and dime you! That's the
> bottom line.
>
> James Espey
> Venting at 11pm in 100 degree heat
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 13:12:41 EDT
From: KayoOng@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DML: Parts cross reference
Hi James,
This is Kayo. You are right about nickel and dimeing the DeLorean.
Incidentally, speaking about "venting" and "heat."
How does the DeLorean "vents" or behave in the HOT HOT heat you are
having in
Arizona? Over 100 degrees I heard? I was just curious on the behavior
and
response of the DeLorean in the "hot" climate.
I live in the Northeastern part of the USA. My experiences has been
limited
to normal and very cold-freezing temperature but not extreme-below 0
degree.
It does very well in the "colder" climate conditions. Yes, I do drive my
DeLorean daily. Rain, snow and shine.
I was wondering if you can give a personal evaluation on the behavior and
the
response of the DeLorean in the EXTREME "hot heat," plus all the "other"
effects on the Delorean in the normal to hot climate conditions?
Thanks.
Kayo Ong
#05508
Lic. 9D NY
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 02:47:10 +0100
From: "Martin Gutkowski (UK)" <martin.is@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Desperately seeking DMC
CBL302@xxxxxxx wrote:
>The electrical
> system was typical British, meaning it had it's share of problems,
Hey! I might have to take exception to a remark like that (as a British
Electronic Engineer).
*sigh* at least we can legally remove the catalytic converter *smirk*
No real offense meant, as I'm sure you didn't either :-)
Martin
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 18:05:57 -0400
From: Sean Jones <shain@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Stainless Steel Terror.... Help
Hello,
I'm thinking of getting a DeLorean but it was some stainless steel
problems. From what i'm guessing, it has gotten dents and has body
filler
in it. Can tell me how to remove the dents and make it looks as good or
almost as good as normal. And can the body filler be removed. I realy
don't have the money to replace every panel with a new almost $1,000
counterpart. Thanks, i realy would like some info.
Sean
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 01:06:06 -0700
From: cliff wallace <wlsms@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Parts cross reference
KayoOng@xxxxxxx wrote:
>
> Hi James,
>
> This is Kayo.
> I was wondering if you can give a personal evaluation on the behavior and
> the
> response of the DeLorean in the EXTREME "hot heat," plus all the "other"
> effects on the Delorean in the normal to hot climate conditions?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Kayo Ong
> #05508
> Lic. 9D NY
Kayo
My DeLorean doesn't drive any different in 100 degree weather than in 70
degree wx. Last summer when my air conditioner WAS working, I drove
from Dallas to OKC in 98 degree heat with my black interior soaking up
the heat from the sun. It's a 250 mile drive and the Temperature gauge
barely moved from it's 210 degree mark. Of course, once I stopped at a
red traffic light, the gauge moved up near the 220 mark, then the
cooling fans came on knocking the temp back down. The same thing
happens in 70 degree weather.
A couple of things that give peace of mind when driving my "D" is having
a new radiator and hoses, thermostat, and of course being rid of that
blue fan fail relay.
Even with the A/C full blast, it is still difficult to keep the car at a
comfortable temperature in extremely hot conditions, especially with a
black interior.
One good side to the hot temperatures is the door struts work much
better.
A couple of weeks ago my Toyota was in the shop awaiting parts, so my
"D" was my daily driver for two days. Here in Oklahoma, we've been
having upper 90's to 100's. I had to drive it only 8 miles to my house
after work without air conditioning in 102 degree temps. The DeLorean's
cooling system and mine worked just fine.
I'm not looking to repair my air conditioning any time soon. The cost
is outrageous. I figure the starting price would be $800 and up. My
compressor clutch is causing the mode switch fuse to blow every time I
turn the cabin fan on, so I keep the compressor's electrical lead
disconnected. Plus the R-12 has lost it's charge. The system may also
have a leak.
There is no easy way getting around air conditioning problems, because
if you replace only the parts that quit, you will run into problems
later on. There is definately room for preventative maintenance here.
With a 17 year old car, it's not a good idea to have new components
working with the old ones. It's best to replace it all.
My 2 cents...
Cliff #3773
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 23:37:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dave Price <dmcweb@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: Heat wave; Was: Parts cross reference
> Incidentally, speaking about "venting" and "heat."
>
> How does the DeLorean "vents" or behave in the HOT HOT heat you are
> having in
> Arizona? Over 100 degrees I heard? I was just curious on the behavior
> and response of the DeLorean in the "hot" climate.
>
Well, I'm here in, usually gray and rainy, Oregon where heat isn't
much of an issue most of the year. Today was an exceptionally hot
day, with a perfectly clear sky, and roasted my poor car while parked
at my "Office" (The driveway of my Boss's house).
I usually just keep the windows down, and put a cover over the
windshield. However, today after taking a quick spin around the block
with an old friend, I forgot to replace the windshield cover when I
went back inside. I returned to the car 30 minutes later to find the
emblem on my late-model automatic shift knob had turned into a
DMC-Taco. And I had just bought a new one a few months ago.
I would think this constitutes a "problem" for areas of extreme heat.
Not to mention my blistered binnacle.
I may be an isolated case, but I've got a sneaking suspision that the
angle of the windshield acts has a pretty good sun-magnifier, and does
a good job of beating up the interior. So far no engine heat problems
though... so far...
Dave
Oh, while I'm posting... There are a few submissions for DeLoreans for
sale on the DMC-News buy-n-sell page that are over a month old. Could
anyone who posted an ad in early June email buynsell@xxxxxxxxxxx if
you want to keep the listing on the page, or if you've sold your
car... Thanks!!
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 05:57:46 -0400 (EDT)
From: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DML: Hot weather DeLorean driving (was: Parts cross
reference)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 01:28:44 -0000
From: James Espey <espey@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "DMCNews" <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sender: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Precedence: list
Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
KayoOng@xxxxxxx wrote:
>
> I was wondering if you can give a personal evaluation on the behavior and
> the response of the DeLorean in the EXTREME "hot heat," plus all the "other"
> effects on the Delorean in the normal to hot climate conditions?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Kayo Ong
> #05508
> Lic. 9D NY
This makes my third summer with the DeLorean in Arizona. So far this
month the temperature has been in the 110-117 range during the day. I
have been working nights, so the DeLorean spends most of the day in the
garage. About 2:30 in the afternoon, I take the 25 minute drive to work
where the car is parked in the shade. I have a new radiator and hoses on
the car, so overheating is not a concern of mine.
The A/C works well, having been recently serviced, but has a hard time
keeping up with it if I am out running errands. My RX7 has worse A/C
performance, but is due for a checkup next week. I am trying to justify a
FanZilla to alleviate the "kick" of the fans. Perhaps if Rob would like
me to evaluate it for him...
Effects on the interior are more distressing. I did leave it out in the
sun for 5 hours last week *WITH* a sunshade and the passenger side
A-pillar trim warped. This will be the fourth time that trim has had to
replaced for heat damage. Knut Grimsrud mentioned fabricating one from
fiberglass and that is the route I am planning to go this time.
I think I could have avoided that altogether with an "external" sunshade
that goes on the outside of the windshield and is secured with the doors.
Stephen Wynne had talked of making one from the same material as is used
in the "outdoor model" Carcoon, but I do not know if it has been done. I
think it would be a worthwhile product.
Incidentally, I have a new dash and want to take care of it properly.
What is the best thing to use on it and the binnacle? I have heard that
Armor-All type products will cause it to turn brown.
A grey interior car, I still find that the seats are not "bare
leg-friendly" and have to watch wearing shorts.
On the bright side, I do find that the extreme heat solves my fingerprint
problem ;)
Most people are smart enough not to touch a stainless steel car that has
been sitting in 115 degree heat, those that aren't are quick learners.
James
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 02:38:27 -0700
From: "lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx" <lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Re: Heat wave; Was: Parts cross reference
At 11:37 PM 7/17/98 -0700, you wrote:
>> Incidentally, speaking about ............ "heat."
>>
reply:
Dave,
I am in a very mild area but even so it can get hot even with a gray
interior. I have been concerned about the dash plastic cracking and
looking
bad. I looked at several dash covers and decided that I did not like any
of
them. Eventually I ended up making up one myself. It was not much of a
job,
but the protection and change in temperature is quite noticeable.
I used gray foam backed headliner material and bias tape. It fits exactly
around and over the entire dash and held in place by small Velcro spots.
My
air conditioner is running OK for the moment and I park in the shade when
ever I can. I don't think the windshield acts like a lens but if you look
at the angle, it's a huge area that lets the sunlight in to become radiant
heat. I am sure you know that those pop-open foil reflectors for the dash
are the best and least expensive way to keep the temp down while parked.
You might want to think about a dash cover, it could possibly improve the
heat problem.
Lee
81DMC-12
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 08:10:32 -0400 (Eastern Daylight Time)
From: Jim Lill <jpl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Pressure Regulator
Richard J.Myosky has been able to cross-ref the Presure Regulator down to
a Bosch Number, 0 438 170 021. If that number is right the regulator he
needs is used in 79 Volvo 260 series and 82-83 GLE. It's also used in
81-83 BMW 320i. The correct name is Fuel Accumulator. Sorry, Bosch did not
cross-ref to the OEM #.
- -Jim Lill http://www.vectorbd.com/users/jpl
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 08:40:18 -0400 (Eastern Daylight Time)
From: Jim Lill <jpl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Fuel part
In my last post, I responded based on Richard's report of the 0 438 170
021 part as being what he's looking for. I'm not sure that is what he
needs. As someone else pointed out, there's various fuel system parts that
all can be confused. Here's what I've dug out of Bosch stuff for the DMC.
Fuel Accumulator
Bosch # 0 438 170 029
Peugeot # 1560.13
Not used on Volvo
Frequency Valve
Bosch # 0 280 150 300
Peugeot # 1560.17
Saab # 83 28 783
Volvo # 1269706
Warm Up Regulator
Bosch 0 438 140 066
Volvo # 1299315
Hopefully, it's one of those.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 08:53:05 -0400 (Eastern Daylight Time)
From: Jim Lill <jpl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Cross-Ref, why
There's been some debate on the value/need for a cross-reference. You
might want to look at http://www.vectorbd.com/peugeot/fuelign.html It is a
cross-ref I put together for Peugeots. BTW, Peugeots and DeLoreans share
many engine parts including the whole PRV V6. My reason for putting that
list together was *not* because we're cheap. I found that as Peugeot are
is "orphaned" marque, parts are always easy to find when you need them.
That's not because the parts aren't around but more because parts guys
won't "talk Peugeot". So, the thought was to make a list that an owner
could reference or even put a copy of in his car so as to not only keep
from being gouged but to have a way to find parts when on the road etc.
The basis for my cross-ref was Bosch Catalogs, Peugeot Microfiche, Peugeot
hardcopy Parts books, and in many cases physically examining the parts.
Some contributors to the data have gone as far as to "take a flyer" and
buy the probable part. As to how much money you can save, most of the time
it's not that great, in fact some parts are cheaper from Peugeot than from
Bosch. In other cases, the O2 sensors for example, you can save $150+ vs.
$50 by using the suggested substitute. On a in-tank pump, I recently paid
$40 for a VW part as opposed to $150 for the whole in-tank assembly. I
made that list in Excel. If anybody does similar and wants PDF
conversions, let me know.
- -Jim
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 10:13:06 EDT
From: JSteuben@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DML: Hot weather DeLorean driving (was: Parts cross
Hi all,
Here's my two cents on hot weather. In Los Angeles, we have been
enjoying 90+
heat and smog that eats your brain. My car has all new hoses and a new
radiator. In the name of keeping the heat moving away from the engine, I
added an external trannie cooler and a engine oil cooler. And I put on a
Fanzilla. To my chagrin, the car continued to run hot (220=fans on,
210=fans
off), so I went "the turn on air conditioner route" and continued about my
business happy in the knowledge that the air conditioning seals were being
well lubed. Until...one of my DMC suppliers discovered that the fans were
coming on "late". (My vin is 1273 and I read somewhere that the early
cars run
'hotter'.) Guess what, with a new Thermal Envelope Switch (I had
replaced it
a mere 8K earlier) the car runs all day @160 because the fans come on at
160
now,without turning on the AC. Do the coolers help? Very much so. And
the
Fanzilla? I never have a power surge when the fans turn on or off, and
when I
shut off the engine, there is something reassuring about hearing the fans
sucking air for those few extra seconds, BTW, I fashioned a block out of
1x2's to keep the engine light off because I've gotten in the habit of
cooling
down the engine bay by raising the louvers and the engine cover whenever
I put
the car in the garage after I've been on a run. The engine really cooks
it's
self when no air is circulating through the bay,and with the covers up,
the
heat dissipates 'muy pronto'. The best solution that I've found for
protecting my car from the elements when I leave it parked outside for
extended periods of time...a car cover. Whatever it costs (which ain't
that
much) it, by far, is the best way to keep the car protected from the
ravages
of heat, sun, and smog. Think cool, stay out of the sun, and support
your DMC
suppliers. Like it or not, when you own a 'D', they are your car's life
blood, and you need them as much as they need you. Best regards, Joe
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 00:17:11 +0100
From: "Martin Gutkowski (UK)" <martin.is@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: DOC Website
Ladies and gentlemen, boys and girls,
I hereby have great pleasure in unveiling the all new DeLorean Owners
Club UK website
http://delorean.connect-2.co.uk
On this site, you will see numerous pictures, almost all taken by me,
and again, almost all which you WILL NOT recognise. I made the decision
not to use any of those pictures we see on just about every page.
My camera has a maximum resolution of 1152x864 and many of the picures
are at this resolution. There are 2 gallery pages, the first is the
mebers' cars page, and the second contains such images as the 140mph
Euro speedometer, and the Canadian 240Kph speedo. Also an engine with
cat removed, an amusing picture of Stephen Wynne, a lowered car in
Carcoon, the articles in the Classic Car Mart magazine, and last, but by
no means least, my former bedroom wall :-)
There's also the PRV-6 paper (running to some 18 pages) for download.
Usual things apply - any q's suggestions etc, e-mail me.
The web ring bit as up but not running yet.
Best Wishes,
Martin
- --
======================================================================
| |
| "Because we do not know when we will die, |
| we think of life as an inexhaustible well..." |
| |
| -- Brandon Lee |
| |
| |
| Martin Gutkowski |
| 14 Wheatfield Drive |
| Cranbrook |
| Kent, TN17 3LU |
| ENGLAND |
| Tel: +44(0)1580 712019 |
| Mobile: +44 (0)976 619759 |
| |
======================================================================
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 14:00:35 -0700
From: Mickey Mitchell <mwm00@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: DML: Hot weather
James
We here in Dallas have been experiencing about the same heat conditions =
and as fate would have it, my original radiator simple could handle the =
pressure :) anymore. Sprung a leak yesterday on the top left side near =
the base of the "filler" spout. I am planning on replacing the radiator =
myself with a brass one. Could you or anybody give me a quick run-down =
on how and what to look-out for when replacing the radiator?
Tnx
Mickey
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 19:50:08 EDT
From: KayoOng@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DML: Hot weather DeLorean driving (was: Parts cross
James,
Thank you for your info. (Thank you to all the others who responded too).
More info than I expected.
Heat is a problem with all cars, especially older ones. The reason why I
asked is out of curiosity. I wanted to find out if I was the only one
with
this "heat" scenario. My experiences is as follows:
At 100 plus degrees in highway driving is different then at 90 degrees in
the
city "crawling" along the streets bumper to bumper traffic. City traffic
driving in the hot weather will guarantee the car's temperature gauge to
be
reading over 220 degrees.
In NYC last year during the summer of '97 the temperature was over 95
degrees,
what a hair raising experience that was, crawling along the FDR-East River
Drive or Westside Highway at bumper to bumper. The gauge was hot reading
over
220 degrees. When the traffic was moving along above 40 mph, it still
took 5
minutes for the gauge to come back to the normal reading in the white band
area. The HOT ambient temperature, did labored the hot gray interior and
the
A/C system. The DeLorean's A/C was properly serviced and maintained and
has
an Fanzillia from PJ Grady! My DeLorean's temperature gauge was reading
way
above the "red Line" over 220 degrees even with the two fans running full
blast constantly!
To resolve this heat and hot weather condition dilemia, last year in the
in
the fall season I had a larger heavy duty "full" brass metal radiator
installed by PJ Grady. This was done to anticipate for the hot weather
which
is to encounter in the future.
Just three days ago, the weather in NYC was over 95 degrees. NO problem
with
the hot weather with the new H.D. radiator. The gauge reads in the white
band
zone with the fans running full blast! I just have to be careful of the
"creeping" city traffic driving, that aids in draining the battery's
electrical energy. The engine will not turn the alternator RPM fast
enough to
crank out the full 90 amps to charge the battery and to run all the car's
electrical demand.
Now it is an old but new problem. An electrical problem. THE ALTERNATOR'S
OUTPUT.
Other then that, all is okay.
Kayo Ong
#05508
Lic 9D NY
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 15:34:29 -0500
From: "Tim Hansen" <thansen@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Apparent cracked exhaust manifold....
OK, how much does this cost? What do I have to do to rectify this and not
embarrass myself in front of prospective buyers? Here's the deal...car
runs
real loud (sounds like a VW) and you can feel the exhaust by holding your
hand to the forward left side of the engine bay (by the firewall).
Prospective buyer identifies it as a cracked header.
HELP!
Please reply not only to the list but also to me personally...
Tim Hansen
thansen@xxxxxxxxxx
#4761
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 16:00:13 -0700
From: Matt Peak <mpeak@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Parts cross reference
One of of the greatest ways to familiarize yourself with the Delorean is
to
do as much of the repair work yourself. Or, even if you can't do a
certain
job yourself, it helps to understand what's wrong and what it takes to fix
it properly. Of the $5,000+ I have spent upgrading my Delorean since I
bought it, about $2,500-$3,000 was spent at Delorean facilities. But the
Delorean facilities didn't have the cross-drilled rotors or the stainless
steel brake lines I wanted for my car. It's not wise avoid the Delorean
shops, but it is wise to be knowledgeable about your car and patronize the
shops whenever it makes the most sense. As far as blindly turning my car
over to sombody for improvement (like Delorean One wants us to do) or
buying a $7 Bosch relay for $18, that's not for me.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 22:17:38 EDT
From: OLopez1@xxxxxxx
Subject: DML: WTB DMC-12 in Florida
Seriously wanting to buy a DeLorean. Looking for original stainless steel
color, automatic trans. a must. Interior color not important and
preferably
in south Florida but anywhere in Florida is just fine. contact me at
olopez1@xxxxxxx
Orlando Lopez
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 20:53:31 -0700
From: "lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx" <lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Apparent cracked exhaust manifold....
At 03:34 PM 7/18/98 -0500, you wrote:
>OK, how much does this cost? What do I have to do to rectify this and not
>embarrass myself in front of prospective buyers? Here's the deal...car
>runs
>real loud (sounds like a VW) and you can feel the exhaust by holding your
>hand to the forward left side of the engine bay (by the firewall).
>Prospective buyer identifies it as a cracked header.
>
>HELP!
>Please reply not only to the list but also to me personally...
>Tim Hansen
>thansen@xxxxxxxxxx
>
>#4761
>
reply:
Maybe not! I had the exact same symptoms and found that the exhaust gasket
had burned through. It was a pain in the rear to replace, but not
expensive.
If you can take the car to a Volvo or DeLorean shop to confirm the
problem,
you can get the replacement parts and with about 4 hours on a weekend do
the work. or have the shop do it.
Again if I can do the repair than you can do it!, if it is a cracked
header, you only need the broken side.
Lee
81DMC-12
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 01:38:08 -0700
From: cliff wallace <wlsms@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Hot weather
Mickey Mitchell wrote:
>
> James
>
> We here in Dallas have been experiencing about the same heat conditions =
> and as fate would have it, my original radiator simple could handle the =
> pressure :) anymore. Sprung a leak yesterday on the top left side near =
> the base of the "filler" spout. I am planning on replacing the radiator =
> myself with a brass one. Could you or anybody give me a quick run-down =
> on how and what to look-out for when replacing the radiator?
>
> Tnx
> Mickey
Mickey
One thing I would suggest is that you not replace the radiator by
yourself. You're going to need one more person on the other side of the
car to hold the radiator while wedging it between the cooling fans and
the condenser, especially when installing the new one. It took a friend
and I a whole Sunday to replace mine. The reason is that you have to
work underneath the car to remove it. First the Horns and brackets,
then the cooling fans which are screwed onto the radiator. What slowed
us down was that we were trying to loosen nuts we couldn't see at the
upper portion of the radiator, with an 8 or 10mm wrench? I forgot which
one it was, it's been a while since I've changed mine out.
There's very little space to work with when loosening those nuts at the
top which BTW could only be turned 1\4 counterclockwise at every turn.
That was fun! It takes lots of patience.
Also, count on breaking some of the radiator screws off as you loosen.
We were very careful and turned the nuts slowly, but it didn't matter.
The screws and nuts were rusted. Be sure to ask your supplier for screws
and nuts with your new radiator.
Once you're finished, you'll need to bleed the cooling system.
Also, if you still have the original radiator hoses, those will have to
be replaced. Some of them get swollen and cracked resulting in leaks.
Replacing these took-up a whole Sunday also.
Have fun!!!
Cliff #3773
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 02:48:55 EDT
From: JSteuben@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DML: Apparent cracked exhaust manifold....
Hi Tim, before you go any further, check out your exhaust gaskets. You
may
have a broken stud or two and that could blow gaskets. The originals (at
least in my car) were individually mounted on each exhaust port. The
newer
version has one gasket that runs across the block. Good luck, Joe
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 05:11:29 -0700
From: "lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx" <lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: High Center!
Hi all:
First I thought for every one like me who changes oil often, (1,000) and
who buy oil by the gallon plastic jug a tip. You can pour the oil in using
the cardboard center from a standard paper towel role. It's smaller than
the oil fill on the DMC and larger than the pour top on most oil
containers. Yes I know there are plastic funnels, but they are always to
short and neck down to much. I like pouring in the oil with out all the
mess and spilling which gets the engine compartment oily, and collects
dirt.
Another hint, to avoid High centering your DMC while backing on to oil
change ramps, use a mirror to see the rear tires. Otherwise you could back
a bit to far and drop off the ramps. If you do happen to do this You will
find that the rear jack points are in just the right spot to support it on
the flat of the ramps. But you will find that there is about 1/8 th inch
clearance between the floor and your rear tires. If you are carful you can
drop your DMC on the ramps with little or no harm to it, but then you have
to jack the "D" to get the ramps out. I would recommend stopping on the
ram
flat. This provides lots of space to get under the rear end, change oil,
filters, Fuel and Oil, and do any other required work.
One final note:
For list of 100 members please log in a hello message at:
http://www.totalimmersion.com./dmcboard/dmcboard.html
and if you e-mail is:
<paa5072@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
<vincea@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
your June update bounced, please contact me so I can send you some
important information.
Lee
81DMC-12
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 06:38:11 +0000
From: ausmith@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: DML: Hot weather
Hi,
There is probably nothing wrong with the core, examine it carefully.
If you have any metalworking skills it's not difficult to fabricate
new tanks from brass. I did it on my previous D and will probably do
it for my current one. No problems with the tanks yet, knock wood.
Sheet brass is pretty easy to bend and the tubing for the fittings is
available in the correct sizes.
Chris
(snip)
> I am planning on replacing the radiator =
> myself with a brass one. Could you or anybody give me a quick run-down =
> on how and what to look-out for when replacing the radiator?
>
> Tnx
> Mickey
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 23:03:42 -0400
From: "Joe " <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: Parts cross reference
Richard,
In 12 yeas of servicing DeLoreans I have never seen a defective frequency
valve, your leak is probably due to a fitting problem and not the
frequency
valve itself. Additionally save yourself shopping and calling around for
DeLorean parts, there are several DeLorean suppliers who can match any
part
for the same or even less money than NAPA or any other generic parts
dealer.
Joe/DeLorean Services
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 23:16:52 -0400
From: "Joe " <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: steering column
Yes, the steering column must be removed to replace the bushing. All the
electrical connections are plug connections. You should also remove the
inspection plate in your luggage compartment just below the gas filler to
access the area where the busing lives.
Joe/DeLorean Services
- ----------
> From: JSteuben@xxxxxxx
> To: dmcnews-digest@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: DML: steering column
> Date: Wednesday, July 15, 1998 9:48 AM
>
> Hi all,
> Suddenly the steering column is bouncing around as I drive. It appears that
> the bushing (#101994) has come out of it's home in the pedal box. Does this
> indicate that it needs to be replaced? After %$#!$## with it for 1/2 a day,
> does anyone have any ideas on how to realign the bushing in the hole without
> pulling the whole column? Does pulling the column effect the front alignment
> at all? How much of the electrical stuff in the column has to come out
> to move it? Oh meee! Thanks for your thoughts and suggestions. Joe
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 16:22:23 -0400
From: "Joe " <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Hot weather DeLorean driving (was: Parts cross
Kayo,
Here are some hot weather/cooling system facts for future reference. I am
currently living in Georgia but originally hail from "NYC", so this info
should be relative to your experiences.
The number one enemy to the DeLorean cooling system is "air" trapped air
in
the coolant lines. With no air in the system and all other elements doing
their job, i.e.: thermostat, temperature switch, and the cooling fans here
is what you can expect.
Under the worst conditions i.e.: temperatures in excess of 100 F, in stop
and go traffic, the temperature gauge should never exceed 220 F. Although
the all brass radiator is more reliable than the plastic tank original the
cooling efficiency is about the same. Your improvement in cooling was
probably a result of the trapped air being eliminated when your new
radiator was installed.
I'll see if I can get you a few more volts from your alternator, what kind
of alternator do you have? Joe/DeLorean Services
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 17:00:36 -0400
From: "Joe " <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: Torsion bar allen wrench size
The correct size for the torsion bar is 3/8" allen.
Joe/DeLorean Services
- ----------
> From: Greg Guillot <gguillot@xxxxxxxxx>
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: DML: Torsion bar allen wrench size
> Date: Friday, July 17, 1998 10:38 AM
>
> Does anyone know the size of the allen wrench required to adjust the
> torsion bar tension on the doors? It looks like 10mm, and I would
(SNIP)
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 17:11:34 -0400
From: "Joe " <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: Apparent cracked exhaust manifold....
Good news!, 98% of the time the exhaust noise coming from the left
manifold
is a blown gasket. The gaskets are relatively inexpensive, it's the
installation that is labor intensive and not a "shade tree project".
Locate
a Volvo repair facility and ask about a manifold gasket replacement for a
B-28F V-6 engine for the left side manifold only. They will probably
suggest that they will send the manifold to a machine shop for resurfacing
and that is a good idea. The price will range will be between $275 to
$450.
Joe/DeLorean Services
- ----------
> From: Tim Hansen <thansen@xxxxxxxxxx>
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: DML: Apparent cracked exhaust manifold....
> Date: Saturday, July 18, 1998 4:34 PM
>
> OK, how much does this cost? What do I have to do to rectify this and not
> embarrass myself in front of prospective buyers? Here's the deal...car runs
> real loud (sounds like a VW) and you can feel the exhaust by holding your
> hand to the forward left side of the engine bay (by the firewall).
> Prospective buyer identifies it as a cracked header.
>
(SNIP)
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 16:32:07 -0400
From: "Joe " <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Hot weather DeLorean driving (was: Parts cross
Although the external coolers do not make a big difference in the DeLorean
cooling system, they do help to better distribute the excess heat and help
the fluids do a better job. The FanZilla is a vast improvement over the
original system and will pay for itself in short time. I don't thank there
is any benefit to airing out your engine after a hot drive but it
certainly
wont hurt and if it makes you feel better, why not?
Joe/DeLorean Services
- ----------
> From: JSteuben@xxxxxxx
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: DML: Hot weather DeLorean driving (was: Parts cross
> Date: Saturday, July 18, 1998 10:13 AM
>
> Hi all,
> Here's my two cents on hot weather. In Los Angeles, we have been
> enjoying 90+
> heat and smog that eats your brain. My car has all new hoses and a new
> radiator. In the name of keeping the heat moving away from the engine, I
> added an external trannie cooler and a engine oil cooler. And I put on a
> Fanzilla. To my chagrin, the car continued to run hot (220=fans on,
> 210=fans
(SNIP)
> a mere 8K earlier) the car runs all day @160 because the fans come on at
> 160
> now,without turning on the AC. Do the coolers help? Very much so. And
> the
> Fanzilla? I never have a power surge when the fans turn on or off, and
> when I
(SNIP)
> of heat, sun, and smog. Think cool, stay out of the sun, and support
> your DMC
> suppliers. Like it or not, when you own a 'D', they are your car's life
> blood, and you need them as much as they need you. Best regards, Joe
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 23:48:37 -0400
From: "yugoman" <mdrig@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: On the road!
Got my 81 out of storage today. Much to my surprise and glee, no jump
start
needed after about 5 or 6 months storage (battery unhooked). After turning
over 3 or 4 times it started and stayed running :^)
I have a few questions for the gurus on the list:
It idles unevenly (surges a little) and runs kind of rough on the road. I
have a P.J.Grady reciept from previous owner for fuel pump kit, fuel
pickup
screen, fuel baffle bottom, upper suction/return and lower return hoses.
Could some of this be installed wrong or adjusted wrong, or should I look
elsewhere?
Also I have a Fanzilla for it but can't figure out from the instructions
where it goes. Where is the upper relay rack?
Lastly, a neighbor came by admiring it and brought a bottle of Auri
Colorcote 2000 black polish he felt would bring the color back to the
louvers. My license plate trim is also faded. Has anybody tried this
product, or recommend another for these areas?
Sorry for the length, I'm sure to have more questions for the list in the
days ahead. Thanks!
------------------------------
End of dmcnews-digest V3 #390
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