dmcnews-digest Sunday, August 16 1998 Volume 03 : Number 400
In this issue:
DML: john z. delorean
Re: DML: Re: Frame
Re: DML: Re: Frame
Re: DML: Re: Power windows
Re: DML: Louvres Materials
DML: Re:Auto Trans Not Shifting
Re: DML: New owner
Re: DML: Re: Frame
DML: Re: New owner
DML: Re: Gullwing Doors
DML: cheap stainless polish alternative
Re: DML: Re: Gullwing Doors
Re: DML:a quick question
Re: DML: Re: Frame
Re: DML: Re: Frame
DML: SS Braided Brake Lines
DML: 140 MPH speedo face
Re: DML: NY DELOREAN
Re: DML: 140 MPH speedo face
Re: DML: 140 MPH speedo face
Re: DML: Re: Frame
Re: DML: NY DELOREAN
Re: DML: Re: Power windows
DML: 4speed delorean??
Re: DML: Re: Frame
DML: Mailing list anniversary
DML: Struts, Spotted D, & Thesis.
DML: Air & Oil Filters
DML: DMC parts for sale
Re: DML: Re: Frame
DML: code
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1998 20:54:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: michael bergeron <foxmulder241@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: john z. delorean
is the john z. delorean mentioned in the movie the people vs. larry
flint the same one who invented the car.
mike
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 00:27:13 -0400
From: Josh Haldeman <haldeman.4@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Re: Frame
> This may sound like a pipe dream, but I assure you that as a certified
> welder, there is no such thing as an un-repairable "steel" object. The
> only
> question is how much needs to be replaced or fixed. I have seen many
> articles about seporating the frame and the body. If this is as easy as
> the
> articles suggest, then doing the repair of the frame it's self is a very
> easy proposition...
> Lee
Reply:
I have a question for you Lee...I restored a '65 Mustang a few years
back,
and it needed some major frame repair. The body shop I went to for
advice,
which specializes in Mustangs, said that I should not chance welding the
cowl
section by myself without super tight measuring gear and years of welding
experience, which I do not have. On the Mustang's unibody, the cowl
section
is a big part of the frame, so instead of repairing it I went out and
bought a
solid unibody and put my parts on it. My question therefore is: On a
DeLorean
when does it become easier to replace the frame than it does to repair it
if
you have to do similar nanometer (exaggerating) type calculations to make
sure
everything fits right. Obviously the DeLorean doesn't have a unibody
frame,
but I'd imagine that there are probably a few places that need to be spot
on
or the car won't go back together properly.
Pehaps you or Joe or somebody would know where those places are, so we
would know what to look for when buying a DeLorean. Thanks for any input,
-Josh
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1998 22:48:48 +0000
From: kenm@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DML: Re: Frame
At 12:40 AM 8/12/98 EDT, you wrote:
>Nick ,if your frame is that bad,it may not be worth repairing the
>rusted frame,it is not very hard to replace the frame on a
>delorean,and well worth
> >replacing, ..................
On this subject, I have lookd through the back issues of the DML but
I was unable to locate any info on the frame coating material. I need
to buy a small amount (pint?) of it to re-coat the area just under
the motor. I know the info is in the DML, I just seem to be too lame
to use the search engine properly.
Ken Montgomery #10911
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1998 22:48:48 +0000
From: kenm@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DML: Re: Power windows
> I wish the answer was as easy as your question. There are no relays for
> the
> window regulators (motors), your problem is either dirty contacts at the
> center console switches or a broken drive cable or stripped drive gear.
> Pull the switch covers off each switch and spray the interior with contact
> spray, available at Radio Shack. If this does not correct the problem you
> will have to replace your window regulators.
> Here is some additional info.. The original window regulators had several
> design flaws which are not repairable. Fortunately the after market heavy
> duty replacements available from the major DeLorean parts suppliers are
> far
> superior and once installed should not have to be replaced. Replacement of
> these components should be left to a qualified DeLorean specialist.
> Joe/DeLorean Services
What if the window works, but just very slowly. Is there a way to
beef up the stock window device BEFORE the gears get stripped? This
is my next project after I finish with the headliners. I'd almost
rather not tackle it since it's so close to the DOA expo but I'll
have one VERY unhappy passenger if I can't make the window work.
Ken Montgomery #10911
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 07:02:45 EDT
From: KKoncelik@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DML: Louvres Materials
In a message dated 98-08-13 02:23:28 EDT, you write:
<< OLopez1 >>
To repair it you need a high strength adhesive. a two part epoxy with
5,000
psi shear strength is a good bet. Also reinforce it with wire or fiber
mesh
and blend it in. I've repaired mine a few times and it has never broken
in
the same place after the repair.
when you are ready to repair it let me know and I'll give you the epoxy
number and where to get it if you can't find it locally
ken
------------------------------
Date: 13 Aug 1998 07:26:01 -0500
From: Dave.Sontos@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: DML: Re:Auto Trans Not Shifting
It works.
Much thanks to Mark Hersey who I had on the phone this past weekend
walking me
through the different problem areas to look at on the printed circuit
boards
on the computer governor. Turns out all it was, was a bad connection and
two
bad capacitors. Total cost $1.50 plus two hours of soldering and cleaning
the
boards. (and several mosquito bites)
Since I removed the boards from the governor and attached a long extension
cord I still need to re-mount the boards in a Radio Shack project box and
mount that somewhere in the engine compartment.
Thanks again Mark,
Dave Sontos
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 09:12:06 -0400
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: New owner
William M. Kwan wrote:
>
> As a new owner of a DeLorean, I would appreciate any advice on mechanica=
<SNIP>
Most if not all of this information can be found in the back issues.
There is a really good search engine, you should try it out.
I use PJ Grady for most of my parts, and use DMC Houston as a alternate.
When changing the door struts, it may be necessary to adjust the torsion
bar. This should be done by a experienced mechanic.
I use Prestone Coolant, no problems.
Marc
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 08:16:48 -0500
From: scottmueller@xxxxxxxxx (Scott Mueller)
Subject: Re: DML: Re: Frame
kenm@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
>
> At 12:40 AM 8/12/98 EDT, you wrote:
> >Nick ,if your frame is that bad,it may not be worth repairing the
> >rusted frame,it is not very hard to replace the frame on a
> >delorean,and well worth
> > >replacing, ..................
>
> On this subject, I have lookd through the back issues of the DML but
> I was unable to locate any info on the frame coating material. I need
> to buy a small amount (pint?) of it to re-coat the area just under
> the motor. I know the info is in the DML, I just seem to be too lame
> to use the search engine properly.
>
> Ken Montgomery #10911
Ken, There are boxes full of small cans of the epoxy in the warehouse,
give DMC Houston a call.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 09:34:23 -0500
From: "Paul Hamer" <phamer@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: New owner
One tip in replacing the door strut, remember that the door weighs almost
100lbs and should be well supported or braced or held by another person.
The first time I changed one I didn't consider this factor. Imagine my
surprise.
There are many good sources like PJ Grady or DMC for the strut. Comes out
easily by removing the strange little clip at both ends. A 5 minute job.
Paul Hamer
20913
- -----Original Message-----
From: William M. Kwan <BillKwan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: DMC NEWS <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Wednesday, August 12, 1998 9:35 PM
Subject: DML: New owner
>As a new owner of a DeLorean, I would appreciate any advice on mechanical
>maintenance on the car. The strut on the passenger door seems to be weak=
>and I would like to replace that. If anyone can give me some idea on where
>to obtain replacement parts e.g. struts for the doors, struts for the
>engine compartment etc.
>Also I like advice on how to drain and refill the coolant - what type to
>use since it is an auminum engine.
>
>Thanks
>Bill Kwan
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 10:14:17 -0500
From: "BRUCE BENSON" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: Gullwing Doors
>
> For you that are interested in Gullwing doors on cars check out this web
Sender: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Precedence: list
Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> site! http://members.xoom.com/lplplplaae/
This is really a nice web sight with several photos amoung which is the
Isdera Imperator 108i which John DeLorean was interested in producing and
was mentioned in past NEWSLETTERS as a possible succesor to the original
DeLorean.
Bruce Benson
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 10:28:43 -0700
From: "Dennis Chang" <dennis@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: cheap stainless polish alternative
A buddy of mine that used to design and build proto-
types of stainless steel barbecue grills suggested
that I use what he uses: lemon oil.
You can buy it in bulk at almost any hardware store
and it's much cheaper than any commercial polish.
I have tried it on some stainless parts before but
never on a DeLorean (I don't own one yet, and I
doubt a DeLorean owner would respond well to my
sneaking up to their parked car with a can of
lemon oil in the middle of the night...)
Dennis.
>Ask 10 DeLorean owners this question and you'll get 10 different answers.
>I wash the car normally, then apply a 3M Stainless Steel Polish. It's in
>an aerosol can, just spray on an wipe off (with the grain!!).
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 12:48:00 +0100
From: Pete.J.Smith@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: DML: Re: Gullwing Doors
I'd like the Commandatore 112i :-) If you want to see all sorts of
different cars some new some old (including the DeLorean and the
Isdera) check out:
http://www.supercars.net/index.htm
Pete
______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________
Subject: DML: Re: Gullwing Doors
Author: delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx%ussmtp at ccx400uk
Date: 13/08/98 17:38
>
> For you that are interested in Gullwing doors on cars check out this
web
> site! http://members.xoom.com/lplplplaae/
This is really a nice web sight with several photos amoung which is the
Isdera Imperator 108i which John DeLorean was interested in producing and
was mentioned in past NEWSLETTERS as a possible succesor to the original
DeLorean.
Bruce Benson
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 10:49:50 -0700
From: "lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx" <lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML:a quick question
At 09:28 PM 8/12/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Hi all
>
>I've been researching DeLoreans for quite some time and I am planning to buy
>one when the fund become available. One question that I have though,
>concerns the actual company itself. The DeLorean seems to have been a very
>popular car and probably would have become quite reliable had it been given
>the time to evolve. Why didn't any other business-type people try to
>restart the company? I've heard that the stamping dies for the parts had
>been destroyed, but if there are still engineering drawings of the parts,
>then new dies (and cars) could be produced. Just curious...
>
>James DeBroeck
>no car yet.
>
reply:
I will address the "have become quite reliable" issue.
It's my belief that reading the DML is miss leading as to how reliable the
DeLorean is. The delorean is in fact very reliable as a vehicle, and
compared with other sport coupe's it both less expensive and at least as
dependable as any other sports coupe'. The reason you see so much about
the
problems here is this is where we owners have a support network, which we
use to help one another with the occasional problems. If you were to go
back threw the historical data base you would find that like all machines
the DeLorean has some weak areas that habitually fail. As new members come
on to the DML they all have the same problems, and the same solutions
continue to be used to take care of these problems. I would suggest that
most current owners who have had a DeLorean for 18 MO to 2 years and are
repairing and replacing weak parts is for the most part driving with no
hesitation their DeLoreans.
Lee
BTW this is where we play with out toys for big boys!
err and gals too.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 11:59:00 -0700
From: "lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx" <lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Re: Frame
At 12:27 AM 8/13/98 -0400, you wrote:
> I have a question for you Lee.. >
Reply:
My answer is that welding is a very simple art that consist of joining two
bits of metal by melting the edges and allowing the two liquid parts to
mix
and cool. It's true that for some it may take years to learn this skill
others pick it up from books or training.
The tools are few and simple to understand and use.
That said, to address your specific question, yes many parts may need to
be
dead on, for this you may end up making a jig to hold the parts in the
correct alignment. hear again it's a matter of common sense as much as art
know how. If you want to weld something you can rent the equipment and buy
the rod.
For general rusty spots the solution is quite simple, grind out the rust
and using filler rod, fill in the ground out spot, regrind the new metal
until it is the same as the original shape. To replace a major component,
say for instance Top Wishbone mounting bracket, you would need a piece
from
a salvaged frame, clamps, the frame measurement specs Page R:01:03
Delorean
manual, grinder
cutting tips and welding tips or ARC set plus welding rod. The old part is
cut off at a diagonal in good metal, the coating ground back 1/4th inch/
the new part is cut to match and ground back to allow 1/8th inch gap. The
new part is clamped into position and adjusted until the critical
measurements agree with the manual. The two parts are spotted, checked for
alignment then and interrupted bead is lay down on one side, ground and
beaded on the reverse side, checked for alignments again, the n fill rod
used to dress the weld. once cooled it would be wire brushed and checked
for pinholes. cleaned and coated in what ever manor desired. Now it's
ready
to be used.
You see just 14 lines of text covers the whole project!....Wink<
Lee
BTW if you want my ASW certificate number send me private e-mail....
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 20:57:32 EDT
From: CBL302@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DML: Re: Frame
I would have to say,Remove the bad epoxy fom the frame,if possible grind
down
the rusty area,then use POR (pour over rust)this stuff,when hardened IS
BETTER
than the factory epoxy,I have tried it,and I highly recommend it,if
anybody is
going to
drive their Deloreans in the northern winters,IT WILL save your frame from
rusting,but
only in the areas that you applied POR.Try it and you will be a believer.
CBL302
vin570
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 22:03:22 EDT
From: WINGD2@xxxxxxx
Subject: DML: SS Braided Brake Lines
Over the past month I've recieved a few inquiries from list members about
weather I could get some more sets of Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines
made
for the Delorean. I worked with a friend, who is the senior engineer for
Goodridge Co in Europe. His company is the leading supplier of OEM hoses
for
the Europen auto industry. The "set" we developed is a 4 line kit which
replaces the stock rubber brake hoses on the car with SS braided brake
lines
made specifically for the Delorean. These lines have a clear plastic
coating
to resist abrasion and have the CORRECT metric end fittings for proper
installition. These lines are USA - DOT and Europen - TUV approved for
highway use.
Back after we developed this "set", I was able to get a "custom run" of
about
a dozen sets made. These sets have gone to many list members for their
cars.
Cost for a set was $120. After speaking with my friend receintly, he has
agreed to do another "custom run" of about a dozen sets again. Anyone
who is
interested should e-mail me directly. Cost will stay at $120 set.
I have run these lines on my car for the last 2 years and am very happy
with
their performance. They do much the same thing the braided clutch line
does,
they eliminate the "balooning" effect of the stock rubber lines and
impart a
firmer feel in the system. My car has even seen limited track time, and
the
firmness becomes even more appearent under these conditions. I'm also
interested in comments, good and bad, from some of the list members who
are
running these lines. Let me, and others on the list, know what you think.
Thanks, Marty Maier
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 22:06:45 EDT
From: WINGD2@xxxxxxx
Subject: DML: 140 MPH speedo face
Another project which has finally reached completion is the production of
the
140 MPH face for the Delorean speedometer. This face is a vinyl overlay
decal which goes over the existing speedo face. The finished product is a
reproduction version of the very rare, original factory 140 MPH speedo.
The
outer scale is 0 - 140 mph in white and the inner scale is 0 - 210 kmh in
blue.
Step by step instructions for the installation are included. Note; after
the
new face is installed the speedo will require re-calibration. This
service is
avaliable at speedo repair shops and should cost about $30-40. All other
parts of the speedo system remain stock.
Cost for the 140 MPH face decal and instructions is $20 (including
shipping)
If interested, e-mail me at: winged2@xxxxxxx
or send check to : Marty Maier
704 Valley Drive
East Alton, ILL 62024
include your mailing address
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 01:47:37 -0500
From: DMC-FLUX <dmc-flux@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: NY DELOREAN
Hello Steve,
Tuesday, 11 August 98, you wrote:
sb> Spotted a clean 82? Delorean with NY plates in Owego NY. Just curious
sb> who you are.
sb> steve brodsky #10688
I am not sure who that is but I moved up to the Watertown area.
In fact my car is up here now. It has Ohio Plates though and is an
81.
Anyone else up in this neck of the woods???
Best regards,
Dmc-flux mailto:dmc-flux@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 02:51:08 EDT
From: CDIUSAMPS@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DML: 140 MPH speedo face
Very interested in 140 MPH speedo face. Can you scan one for show and
tell
before purchase? BILL
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 02:27:34 -0000
From: James Espey <espey@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: 140 MPH speedo face
The 140MPH speedo and install process will be featured in the next zine
due out September 1, 1998. Several of them were sold at the Cincinnati
event, so perhaps someone will share their experiences with the list
beforehand?
James Espey
Moderator, DeLorean Mailing List
http://www.dmcnews.com/
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 11:09:54 EDT
From: CBL302@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DML: Re: Frame
Lee,that is fine and dandy for a frame that has minor rust,But here we are
talking
a very flammable oil based fiberglass body,rubber hoses stuck in the side
of
the
frame,plastic gas tank,ect,and who knows where in the box section,there
might
be major hidden rust,like I said in the case of a MAJOR frame rust,as in
Nicks
Delorean,his best bet IS to remove the body from the frame,for safety
sake and
either replace the frame,or with the body off,he could easily check and
repair
his
bad frame.
CBL302
vin570
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 12:22:51 EDT
From: Klutch89@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DML: NY DELOREAN
I remember a few days ago, on some remote section of the net, I saw a
DeLorean
for sale from Owego NY... maybe the same person? Could be...
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 12:14:06 -0400
From: "Joe " <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Re: Power windows
Ken,
Here is the problem, there is a plastic coupling that holds the cable
assembly together, this part has an 85% failure rate, if it hasn't broken
while in the door it will break when you try to remove it or repair it.
Unfortunately there is no efficient upgrade of the original regulators. As
a side note the updated replacements are all steel, with a larger motor
and
beefier gear assembly.
Joe/DeLorean Services
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1998 01:12:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: illyana delorean <illyanadmc@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: 4speed delorean??
hey! i was looking at the new "old car trader" mag today at borders,
and there was an ad for a delorean. but this one was "special." this
delorean was a rare 4speed. when was this made? ive never heard of a
4speed delorean. or was this guy just being asinine?
<-illyana->
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1998 03:46:06 -0700
From: "lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx" <lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Re: Frame
At 11:09 AM 8/14/98 EDT, you wrote:
>Lee,that is fine and dandy for a frame that has minor rust,But here we are
>talking
>a very flammable oil based fiberglass body,rubber hoses stuck in the side
>of
>the
>frame,plastic gas tank,ect,and who knows where in the box section,there
>might
>be major hidden rust,like I said in the case of a MAJOR frame rust,as in
>Nicks
>Delorean,his best bet IS to remove the body from the frame,for safety
>sake and
>either replace the frame,or with the body off,he could easily check and
>repair
>his
>bad frame.
>
>CBL302
>vin570
>
reply:
I prefer using names, mine is Lee, CBL302 feels remote........
In any case, Depending on the circumstances welding repairs can be made to
most any thing any time, even half full fuel tanks. That said Let me take
a step back and repeat what I pointed out before: Welding as a repair
method is easy and safe, and for some plain fun. There is no mystery or
magic to welding and when it comes to the types of steel used in car
frames, it is very common to grind down or cut off damaged, rusted or
defective parts and weld new parts or add metal.
It goes with out saying that major work should be on a bear frame, with
all
the rubber removed, all plastic clips, wires what ever. Even the powder
coatings often used should be ground or burned off. Most people do not
realize that steel is made up of metal crystals that lock together, these
crystals become liquid when heated. So when you weld you simply liquify
the
metal and let it flow together. Weak welds are easy to see and fix, which
is why I have made the comments I have.
For minor rust I would say just clean off and seal, paint, coat what ever.
For major stuff Removing the frame from the under-body may be the best way
to attack the problem. It's all a matter of common sense.
Lee
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1998 12:41:48 PDT
From: "De Miller" <demillerkansas@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Mailing list anniversary
Hi everyone!
Just a "short" note to let everyone know an interesting tidbit I
picked up...Today is the 3rd anniversary of this mailing list! That may
be old news to everyone else, but I'm relatively new to the list
(although I'm on my second Delorean) and I found out by accident while
talking with our congenial (and hard-working) moderator, James Espey. He
has been doing this list for all of us for three years! Wow.
And (dah) I just "discovered" the DMC-New "zine" at www.dmcnews.com
and another WOW!. I downloaded it right before I was supposed to leave
for work this morning and was late to work cause I read every word as it
was printing out!. If you haven't done so, I recommend you take a look
at both issues. Of course, the download was black and white, so later
tonight I'm going to view it on the computer screen to get the full
effect of all the great color photos in the "zine".
Finally, I hope I'm not out of line to suggest that we all buy
something from Mr. Espey's list of items for sale. Not only does he (and
probably others) do hours and hours of work to provide us with this
list, the "zine", the search engine (which is also great and I've used
it about a dozen times since I've been on the list), and other great
things on dmcnews.com, but these great services to us Deloreaners is
FREE! I feel very sure it is not FREE to Mr. Espey and if we all buy
some of his goods, posters, a tie, etc., (that is if he doesn't price
them at cost)it might help defray the costs associated with producing
this great web site.
I personally think we'd feel good just sending him a couple bucks.
Anyone who regularly uses just this list has picked up countless tips
that have no doubt saved lots of dough, so it should be worth a couple
bucks! (PS- I know some of you have already done just that, too.) I'm
sure Mr. Espey has said thanks, but I'd like to say thanks also if it
has helped keep this list going. Sorry about the "shortness" of this
note. I'll try to keep other postings shorter. (I'm a writer, by trade,
though and it's hard to.....STOP ALREADY!) De Miller, Kansas City.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1998 14:14:57 -0700
From: "Robert A. Rooney" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Struts, Spotted D, & Thesis.
As for all of the questions about after market shocks, there is a good
description of some that will fit the De Lorean on Phoenix's Web page
at:
http://members.tripod.com/~Phoenix007/project.html
It has some REALLY good tips & links for upgrades!
On thursday I spotted a D in the parking lot of the "Crazy Horse Too"
Pretty sure it was an '81 w/a gas flap & by the licence plate the owner
registered in sometime between '95-'96.
I also found a thesis written about JZD by a college student at the
University of Chicago. It gives a little more detail than I've found in
most books about his carrer at Packard. Talks about his rise inside of
GM, and explaines how others can do the same. Just some bussiness
reading for those interested at:
http://gsb-www.uchicago.edu/curric/courses/b399/OCHAB.TXT
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 23:39:38 -0700
From: Matt Peak <mpeak@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Air & Oil Filters
This week I installed the K&N air filter which Dave Price mentioned on the
list a couple of issues ago. The filter cost $35, should last forever, is
a little bit smaller in size than the stock filter, but fits in the air
box
fine without any leaks. Dave mentioned that he did not notice any
difference after installing the filter, but I do. It's subtle, not the
difference between night and day, but it is noticeable. After removing
the
old paper filter, I noticed that my intake manifold was moderately dirty,
which concerns me. Isn't the filter (which was only on the car for 3K
miles) supposed to stop all that dirt from making its way into the engine?
I used throttle body cleaner and soaked the heck out of the manifold
interior to rinse all the crud off, but I think it's wise to periodically
check in there to make sure the filter is doing its job.
Another product which I would like to mention is a synthetic oil filter
called "Harddriver." I saw an ad for them in Road & Track and decided to
look at their website. The company makes alot of claims about the filter,
and I asked around to find out if they were true or not. Not many of the
people I talked with were familar with the filter, but said that at least
you aren't going to be any worse off than a standard paper filter. It
looks like the main advantage of this filter over a standard paper filter
is its ability to filter oil at higher PSIs (achieved at higher RPMs)
rather than channeling the oil through the bypass valve like paper filters
can do at high RPMs. It also appears that it filters the oil better and
can go for longer intervals between filter changes. If the filter does
all
that is says, it is truly the best oil filter to put on the Delorean (or
any car). Summit Racing sells these filters and you can also buy them at
the Harddriver internet site (http://www.harddriver.com/) for $8.50 + S&H
($12.45 total), which is what I did. The model that fits the Delorean is
HD07.
Matt Peak
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1998 10:21:53 -0500
From: "Paul Hamer" <phamer@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: DMC parts for sale
The DMC parts, books, poster, video, etc. that I listed last week have =
all been sold to one person. I would like to thank everyone for their =
participation and bids. I wasn't ready for such an overwhelming =
response.
Paul Hamer
(Moderators note: Never underestimate the power of the DML!)
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1998 19:44:09 EDT
From: CBL302@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DML: Re: Frame
Lee,Sorry about That the name here is Claude.And you are right about the
welding
if you do that for a living,but for people who don't do welding for a
living,and want
to tackle major rust,it is far easier to remove the body,than have to
rebuild
your
house,because it burnt along with the car.
Claude
570
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1998 20:37:05 EDT
From: JSteuben@xxxxxxx
Subject: DML: code
Hi all,
I was playing around with my D today and discovered yellow paint markers
on
the rear springs and red makers on the fronts. Does anyone out there
know
what they stand for? My car was lowered by the previous owner, but I
don't
know if the springs were cut or replaced. Any thoughts?
Thanks, Joe Vin #1273
------------------------------
End of dmcnews-digest V3 #400
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