dmcnews-digest Wednesday, July 29 1998 Volume 03 : Number 393
In this issue:
Re: DML: Catalytic Converter
DML: On Board Battery Charger
DML: Battery
DML: DeLorean for sale, NW suburbs of Chicago
DML: Idle Problems / Electrical Problems
DML: A/C Mode Switch
DML: legal import
DML: turbo...
DML: RE: Oak Lawn, IL
DML: Joseph Holbrook
Re: DML: Stainless Steel Frame
DML: AC Certification
Re: DML: Door Ajar Light and Battery Drain
DML: RE: turbo...
DML: Re: Battery
DML: Re: Idle Problems / Electrical Problems
DML: Anyone on ICQ?
DML: Losing Third Gear?
DML: Re: Re: Idle Problems / Electrical Problems
DML: Re: Losing Third Gear?
Re: DML: A/C Mode Switch
Re: DML: Stainless Steel Frame
Re: DML: Losing Third Gear?
Re: DML: legal import
Re: DML: Re: Idle Problems / Electrical Problems
DML: Stainless Steel Louvers
DML: Burlwood Trim Set
DML: Re: Stainless Steel Louvers
DML: Cooling Fans
DML: dmc...clock
DML: VAT on Re-imported Delorean's
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 1998 08:07:19 -0500
From: scottmueller@xxxxxxxxx (Scott Mueller)
Subject: Re: DML: Catalytic Converter
C. Longwisch wrote:
>
> Marc,
>
> I listed the Illinois limits. Are yours as stringent? We are currently
> only
> tailpipe but will be going to the dyno test in October. The car was tuned
> without the cat with all new plugs,cap,rotor,wires, and as I stated
> "leaned" before the test. As the results showed I was more than 4 times
> the
> hydrocarbon limit without the cat but reduced it to an unbelievable 8 ppm
> with it.
>
> Cecil Longwisch
> DMC1982
> VIN# 10663
I had a SMOG test conducted on my 1981 vin #2981 in CA April, 1996
before it could be registered. My car had been in storage for
approximately 10 years. I had to go throught the complete fuel system
and clean most all of the electrical connectors to get the engine and
accesories to function properly. My tune up consisted of replacing the
spark plugs and setting the timing. All emissions devices were in
place.
The readings were:
2500 RPM/IDLE
HC PPM 0024/0004
CO% 0.01/0.02
CO2 10.4/7.2
O2 6.0/10.7
RPM 2480/783
TIMING 13 BTDC
The car passed CA requirements with flying colors dispite having was a
miss at idle. The mechanic that conducted the test told me that it
would not pass because of the rough idle and did not believe the values
that we obtained. He checked his machine on another car after mine and
found that it was indeed functioning correctly.
I admitt, that I did have a high concentration of gas treatment in the
tank during testing, octane boost, gas driers (alcohol). I used these
products in an attempt to further clean the system to rid myself of the
rough running. After the test I completly filled the tank to dilute the
substances to reduce the corrosivness.
The rough idle turned out to be caused by a faulty LAMBDA ECU which was
not driving the frequency valve. The engine ran rough until 2200 RPM
and then smoothed out. Replacing the very expensive $500 ECU was the
ticket.
Currently, I'm in the process of correcting a rich running condition,
the tail pipes have soot in them. Joe of DeLorean Services is walking
me throught the process of troubleshooting and adjusting the CO level.
With the manual at hand, and by being able to discuss the procedures
with Joe I am confident of success. So far the car seems to start
easier and runs well, still does not do 0-60 in less than 5 seconds, but
I guess it never will ;)
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 1998 08:20:56 -0500
From: scottmueller@xxxxxxxxx (Scott Mueller)
Subject: DML: On Board Battery Charger
I have read many posts on the list about members DeLoreans, which are
not driven regularly, having the battery discharge. Fortunatly, I do
not have any major electrical leaks ;)
But, I was at WALMART yesterday and saw a neat device that I just had to
buy.
It is a "fully automatic onboard battery maintainer/charger" rated at
1.5 Amp. It cost $25.00 and I was able to mount it to the driverside
engine compartment. It is hard wired to the red jumper post and to the
engine for ground. It is 1" x 3" x 5", black case and a green LED
indicates power on and a red LED indicates full charge. I had to
increase the length of the positive lead and inlarge the mounting hole
on the bracket. I mounted it to an existing stud just forward of the
carbon canister.
I will only add something to my car if it is not a permenant alteration.
I will let you know how it lasts, one concern of couse is the heat from
the engine. It has a two year warranty and I did not see any warning
about not mounting it in the engine compartment. I will save the
receipt and the package.
Has anyone tried this device yet? I will probably buy one for my boat,
it sits longer than the car between uses and that big block sure takes a
lot of juice to turn it over.
Scott Mueller
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 1998 15:09:04 EDT
From: NJP548@xxxxxxx
Subject: DML: Battery
Dear List:
When I had my car running today I decided to see what would happen if
I
disconnected my battery. When I disconnected it, my RPMs went crazy and
my
low voltage light was flashing on my instrument panel. Does this mean I
have
a problem with my alternator? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Nick
VIN#1852
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 1998 01:55:11 -0500
From: Daniel McGauley <hawkeye@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: DeLorean for sale, NW suburbs of Chicago
Found this DeLorean for sale near my apartment:
(FINANCING AVAILABLE)
81 Manual 30,000 miles $20,000 asking
Gray interior, cracked windshield, rear retractable antenna
VIN# SCEDT26T3BD005815
No cargo net, no flap on hood, stock muffler, stock stereo
Car in good shape, new headliners.
Being sold by consignment at:
MotorWerks (their used car division)
206 N. Cook St.
Barrington, IL 60010
at Rt. 59 (Hough St.) in downtown Barrington
Ask for Carmine Senece, and if purchasing, please give him my name and
address because if he sells it from someone I 'influenced' he's helping me
out with something else. I spent about an hour telling him the detail of
the DeLorean and JZD, and he wanted to give me something for my time and I
just told him it was worth it just to get a look at the car. He
emphasized
to me that financing is available for the car. I came by with my DeLorean
so he was quite pleased to see two of them together (as were passer-bys).
Daniel McGauley
915 Countryside Drive #116
Palatine, IL 60067
847-991-9943
*************************************************************************
Daniel McGauley
Home: hawkeye@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Motorola: mcgauley@xxxxxxxxxxx
http://www.creativeworlds.com/me
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 1998 02:08:20 -0500
From: Daniel McGauley <hawkeye@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Idle Problems / Electrical Problems
I've been having quite a few problems with my DeLorean lately, and the
latest problem has me a bit stumped. I think these are two unrelated
problems, but who knows.
1) When I'm driving the car and I have the gas pedal down (about 3000rpm),
if I let my foot completely off the gas, the car dies (dips below about
500rpm and just keels over). Sometimes it will barely catch itself and
get
itself back up to about 700rpm, but most of the time, especially under A/C
and stereo load, it dies. I got into the engine and cleaned up the
throttle plate (very dirty), and checked the microswitch that has the
screw
plunger that activates it when the gas is released (I guess that's a low
speed idle microswitch). It's adjusted correctly to push the bottom of
the
lever in, but it doesn't seem to do anything. I unpluged the microswitch
completely, and now my car is working great. The idle is super high,
around 1500rpm (1100rpm under load), but I don't mind for now because it's
not stalling in traffic. Does this mean the microswitch is bad?
2) Also, my battery has been dying every month for the past few months. I
replace it with a new battery every month (thank god for warranty), but
that's getting real old. I replaced it yesterday with a battery DMC
Houston recommends since they said my sears battery can't hold up in the
DeLorean, and I redid all of my ground connections, AND I replaced my new
Ducy alternator with Don Steger's 105amp alternator, but my instrument
gauge still reads around 10volts. I put a voltmeter to the battery and
with no A/C it reads about 13.6V which seems right (doesn't it?), but with
A/C on it reads 12.2 to 12.5 volts. Is this normal? If so, I guess the
instrument cluster just has a short in it and I shouldn't worry, but I
wanted a second opinion. Until then, I have a second battery and a
boaster
pack in the car. I'm tired of waiting for jumps.
Thanks in advance.
- -Daniel McGauley
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 1998 08:04:53 -0700
From: "Richard J.Myosky" <rjm@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: A/C Mode Switch
During the replacement of my dash and binnacale I got around to
pulling the a/c mode switch to see if it could be repaired.The switch is
actually in two parts electrical and a vacumn selector dial.The rubber
selector pad has four rubber nipples to hold it in position,all four
tips were broken off.This allowed only the max a/c vents to be open all
the time.This was a quick fix,I used super glue to hold the pad in
position on the dial.The rubber tips are a different size so it was easy
to figure out where to locate the pad on the dial before using the
glue.On the front side of the pad I put silicone to keep the pad soft an
aid in shifting the rubber from one postion to the next.
The electrical side of the switch has a metal plate with three
contact points which rotate when the dial is turned from one position to
the next.My interior blower motor only ran in the a/c position,but when
the dial was rotated to the defrost,heater or vent selection the darn
motor shut down.This is not a problem now, but when the artic blast from
across Lake Erie starts the defrost and heater will get a work out.The
contacts were fairly clean with little corriosion on any of the plates.I
shined these up anyway since the pieces were in my hands.What struck me
as odd was the entire switch had been color coded to aid in lining up
the parts and for reassemble.There are only three wires red,green and
green/white hooking up the electrical side of the unit.I checked the
tech manual and sure enough the wires were not in the correct
order.After installing the wires in the correct order,I now have a
working fan in all the positions of the dial.
Someone had been there before me and had plugged the wires back in
the wrong order.If your the second owner or later do not count on the
last guy to have made the proper hook ups during his repairs.
Thanks again for the help and e-mail pointers for trouble
shooting.
Richard J.Myosky #4419
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 1998 16:23:29 +0100
From: Kieran Masterton <kieran@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: legal import
Is there any rules about importing a delorean from the US to the UK I
understand about shipping cost but do you have to pay VAT and do you have
to have owned it for some time????
thanx for any help you guys can give, kieran.........................
Kieran Masterton
Technical Support at the easynet & ukonline national call centre
http://www.easynet.co.uk & www.ukonline.co.uk
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 01:14:07 -0500
From: "Jameel Ahed" <ahed@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: turbo...
Dear DML,
May I please have the phone number to the person that takes care of
the
twin turbo charging kits.
Jameel
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 08:08:48 -0500
From: Gowler Don-CFPO01 <cfpo01@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: RE: Oak Lawn, IL
Steve, e-mail me directly and lets talk.
Don Gowler - President
DeLorean Midwest Connection
cfpo01@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> ----------
> From: steve r
> Reply To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Sent: Tuesday, July 14, 1998 4:31 AM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: DML: Oak Lawn, IL
>
> I just located a D for sale in Oak Lawn, IL and I am interested in
> possibly purchasing it. I was wondering if anyone on the list might be
> able to visit the owner and check out the car for me before I decide to
> fly out there and make my final decisions. Are there any people out
> there that might be able to help?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Stephen Rice
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 09:32:38 -0400
From: cadillacsrme@xxxxxxxx (christopher a posey)
Subject: DML: Joseph Holbrook
Just the other day I talked to Joseph Holbrook. Some of you may know this
man becaused he owned the Delorean dealership in Somerset, KY. I asked
him a few question about his dealer, and here is what I learned. He said
it cost him $35,000 to get his franchise. When the rep from D (an ex-GM
exec) come to see his dealer, Joe took him from Knoxville in his friends
private plane to Somerset. He said once they were over his lot the man
said he saw all he needed, never setting foot on the ground. He was one
of the last ones to get the franchise b/c they were stopping the sell of
the franchise shortly. He says he has boxes of unopened brochures that
he will never part with and he really enjoyed the car. He is currently
keeping his eyes open for a D for me. He does not own one anymore. Just
some interesting moments with an interesting person.
Aaron Posey
cadillacsrme@xxxxxxxx
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 11:47:05 -0000
From: Bryan Pearce <bryan@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Stainless Steel Frame
In dmcnews-digest #391 Marc Levy Wrote:
>I think I would have to be pretty desperate before I purchase the
>PermaFrame simply because it has not been crash tested. From what I
>understand, Not to may of those frames have been sold as of yet. I
>guess this is due to the price.
As someone who has put over 50,000 miles on the Stainless Steel frame, I
can tell you that I am very pleased with the way it has performed. When
we started this project, we talked with our attorneys extensively about
the need for crash testing. Technically, since we have not changed
anything about the design of the car, crash testing is not required. I
personally don't want to destroy any DeLoreans.
As far as a safety concern, I would much prefer to drive a DeLorean with
a Stainless Steel frame, that has not been crash tested, instead of a
rusty steel frame.
It really is wonderful to be able to look under the car and see a clean
frame after 4 Chicago Winters.
Bryan Pearce
Pearce Design Components
VIN #11529 - The only DMC-12
with a Stainless Steel Frame
------------------------------
Date: 27 Jul 1998 15:27:38 -0500
From: Dave.Sontos@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: DML: AC Certification
Back in March I decided that with five cars to maintain, including the
DeLorean, that I would find a way to get my "Motor Vehicle Air
Conditioning
Technician" certification because I certainly would not be able to handle
$1000+ A/C repair bills and yes you do need A/C here in Virginia.
I contacted "Mainstream Engineering Corp" at http://www.epatest.com/ and
downloaded the 40 page review manual. The next night after reviewing the
manual I pulled out the credit card and paid the $19.95 exam fee and took
the
twenty-five question open book exam right on the internet. You have three
online hours to complete the open book exam.
After completing answering all of the questions you submit the exam for
grading and are given a temporary "Certificate" to print out when you
pass.
Within thirty days you are mailed a real card.
I just tried out my card at the local auto parts store and purchased three
cans of R-12 freon without any problem. You just wip out your card, they
look
up Mainstream in their book, and your off.
Don't even look at these R134a recharge kits, they are not compatable with
your DeLorean system. If you are a do-it-yourselfer like me its easier to
use
the right stuff the first time.
I am not connected to Mainstream in any way, this posting is only to
inform
other DeLorean owners in the US of the ease of acquiring their
certification.
Stay Cool
Dave
VIN 2573
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 17:14:16 -0800
From: "Ken Montgomery" <kenm@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Door Ajar Light and Battery Drain
Richard J.Myosky said:
> While driving the car today,the door ajar light came on and stayed
> on. Both doors close evenly and lock and unlock with no problem.
> Even holding the door light button and door buzzer with my finger
> had no effect on putting out the light. I even uplugged the wires
> leading to the door switches on both sides.
I had this happen too. It was the diodes in the light circuit.
They can be found in the wiring harness just under the dash by the
drivers right leg. They're 2 black items with connectors on
each end. Unplug them one at a time and see if the lights go out.
- -------------------------------------------------------
Ken Montgomery My DeLorean VIN #10911 'OUTTIME'
Sacramento, CA
kenm@xxxxxxxx "When the wind gets under these wings
Operating You will feel what freedom brings"
Systems Analyst From 'On-Air' Alan Parsons
(916) 278-7646
http://www.jps.net/arkham/delorean01.htm
- -------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 21:27:02 -0500
From: Duke <at88mph@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: RE: turbo...
The lady you're looking for is Eleanor Rogers. Her number is =
1-800-449-1248 or 508-303-1924. The price of the kit back in March of =
'97 was $5,017.50 plus $1,000 to install. She doesn't do the installs =
but I believe PJ Grady does.
Hope this helps,
Duke
www.geocities.com/motorcity/8952/delorean.html
(just updated yesterday)
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jameel Ahed [SMTP:ahed@xxxxxxxx]
Sent: Monday, July 27, 1998 1:14 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: DML: turbo...
Dear DML,
May I please have the phone number to the person that takes care of=20
the twin turbo charging kits.
Jameel
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 22:22:47 -0400
From: "Joe " <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: Battery
Nick,
DO NOT disconnect your battery with your engine running, serious damage
could result to any solid state component connected to the electrical
system, that includes the alternator diodes and all three electronic
control units in your fuel system. If you have an auto trans you could
damage the power transistors in your governor computer. This is why your
instruments went crazy.
Joe/DeLorean Services
- ----------
> From: NJP548@xxxxxxx
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: DML: Battery
> Date: Saturday, July 25, 1998 3:09 PM
>
> Dear List:
>
> When I had my car running today I decided to see what would happen if I
> disconnected my battery. When I disconnected it, my RPMs went crazy and
> my low voltage light was flashing on my instrument panel. Does this mean I
> have a problem with my alternator? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks
>
> Nick
> VIN#1852
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 22:46:37 -0400
From: "Joe " <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: Idle Problems / Electrical Problems
Daniel,
Item No. 1 is due to a problem in the idle speed wiring circuit or a
defective idle speed ECU. The test that you conducted with your micro
switch proves that the switch is functioning correctly. You should
consider
having this problem corrected because idling at 1500 RPM in not very cost
effective.
2. Any voltage reading with the engine running that is above 12V is
acceptable.
Something is draining your battery, here's an easy test. With everything
turned off and the engine not running disconnect the positive lead going
to
your battery, wait 30 seconds than lightly touch the cable to the battery
terminal, if you hear or see a spark something is the electrical system is
draining your battery.
Joe/DeLorean Services
- ----------
Replying to:
> I've been having quite a few problems with my DeLorean lately, and the
> latest problem has me a bit stumped. I think these are two unrelated
> problems, but who knows.
>
> 1) When I'm driving the car and I have the gas pedal down (about3000rpm),
> if I let my foot completely off the gas, the car dies (dips below about
> 500rpm and just keels over). Sometimes it will barely catch itself and get
> itself back up to about 700rpm, but most of the time, especially underA/C
> and stereo load, it dies. I got into the engine and cleaned up the
> throttle plate (very dirty), and checked the microswitch that has the screw
> plunger that activates it when the gas is released (I guess that's a low
> speed idle microswitch). It's adjusted correctly to push the bottom of the
> lever in, but it doesn't seem to do anything. I unpluged the microswitch
> completely, and now my car is working great. The idle is super high,
> around 1500rpm (1100rpm under load), but I don't mind for now becauseit's
> not stalling in traffic. Does this mean the microswitch is bad?
>
> 2) Also, my battery has been dying every month for the past few months. I
> replace it with a new battery every month (thank god for warranty), but
> that's getting real old. I replaced it yesterday with a battery DMC
> Houston recommends since they said my sears battery can't hold up in the
> DeLorean, and I redid all of my ground connections, AND I replaced my new
> Ducy alternator with Don Steger's 105amp alternator, but my instrument
> gauge still reads around 10volts. I put a voltmeter to the battery and
> with no A/C it reads about 13.6V which seems right (doesn't it?), butwith
> A/C on it reads 12.2 to 12.5 volts. Is this normal? If so, I guess the
> instrument cluster just has a short in it and I shouldn't worry, but I
> wanted a second opinion. Until then, I have a second battery and a
> booster pack in the car. I'm tired of waiting for jumps.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> -Daniel McGauley
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 20:01:31 -0700
From: Mostafa Sayed <phoenixl@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Anyone on ICQ?
I wrote to ask if anyone here on the mailing list is on ICQ?
Later,
Mostafa
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 98 22:45:54 -0000
From: David Swingle <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Losing Third Gear?
I've had a problem since I got my car over a year ago. I've kind of let
it go since so much other work had to be done, but now I'm also to the
"fix every last thing" part. This may become this winter's project.
Symptom - when cold, no problem. Once the car warms up, I get an
obnoxious "crunch" going into third gear. This only occurs going into
third. The noise seems to come entirely from the shifter. The shifter
itself seems to be fine, and doesn't do it with the engine off. I have
replaced the clutch line with a stainless braided line, and added Grady's
adjustable clutch link. I have worked on the linkage adjustment (it was
way off, and the adjusters were loose so I wasn't the first) but can't
make this noise go away.
I'd guess that it's the third-gear syncho, but the heat sensitivity
surprises me. Any ideas? The prior owner had already replaced the clutch
line, (used something else so I changed it again) so I suspect that he
was having problems and tore up the trans before changing the line. Also,
in fourth gear there is a noticeable motion in the shifter as I get on
and off the throttle. Bad trans mounts?
Is it worth pulling the trans and rebuilding (or having it rebuilt), or
would it be better to just buy a used one from someone parting out a car?
(Hey William Prince <wprince@xxxxxxxxxxx> - how much for your trans). .
.Anyone else have one to sell? What should one be worth?
Anyone here torn into one of these things? There's not much I haven't
done on this or some other car, but opening up a manual trans would be a
new adventure.
Dave Swingle
81 VIN 5429
DOA, DMC, DMC(Midwest)
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 23:21:31 -0500
From: "BRUCE BENSON" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: Re: Idle Problems / Electrical Problems
> Something is draining your battery, here's an easy test. With everything
> turned off and the engine not running disconnect the positive lead going to
> your battery, wait 30 seconds than lightly touch the cable to the battery
> terminal, if you hear or see a spark something is the electrical system
> is draining your battery.
Disconnect the ground wire from the battery and put a multitestor in line
with the ground wire and the battery terminal. With all systems off, (
make
sure the interior lights are off too ), see how many milliamps the car is
drawing. Allowing for the clock you shouldn't see more than five or six
milliamps. If you have double digit milliamps, pull one fuse at a time
until the reading drops to normal single digits. That will tell you which
circuit the problem is in and will narrow the investigation of the drain
source considerably.
Bruce Benson
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 07:34:26 -0400
From: "Joe " <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: Losing Third Gear?
Dave,
Based on your description here's what I think has happened. When the
previous owner had problems shifting because of the plastic clutch line he
probably bent the roll pin that selects your 3rd gear synchronizer. This
is
an inexpensive item and is not difficult to repair by any transmission
repair facility. If you have no experience in trans repair your better off
leaving it to the pro's. The repair route should be much more cost
effective than purchasing a replacement. As a side note the DMC trans is
very strong (truck like) but the roll is is a weak point, once the
stainless clutch line is in place this problem goes away.
Joe/DeLorean Services
- ----------
> From: David Swingle <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: dmcnews submit <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: DML: Losing Third Gear?
> Date: Monday, July 27, 1998 6:45 PM
>
(SNIP)
> Symptom - when cold, no problem. Once the car warms up, I get an
> obnoxious "crunch" going into third gear. This only occurs going into
> third. The noise seems to come entirely from the shifter. The shifter
> itself seems to be fine, and doesn't do it with the engine off. I have
> replaced the clutch line with a stainless braided line, and added Grady's
> adjustable clutch link. I have worked on the linkage adjustment (it was
> way off, and the adjusters were loose so I wasn't the first) but can't
> make this noise go away.
>
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 07:43:11 -0400
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: A/C Mode Switch
PJ Grady went over this at his tech seminar in Cincinnati. I remember
something about a new and improved diaphragm?
I would not recommend super glue... Especially when you can replace the
part correctly.
Richard J.Myosky wrote:
>
> During the replacement of my dash and binnacale I got around to
> pulling the a/c mode switch to see if it could be repaired.The switch is
> actually in two parts electrical and a vacumn selector dial.The rubber
> selector pad has four rubber nipples to hold it in position,all four
> tips were broken off.This allowed only the max a/c vents to be open all
> the time.This was a quick fix,I used super glue to hold the pad in
> position on the dial.The rubber tips are a different size so it was easy
> to figure out where to locate the pad on the dial before using the
> glue.On the front side of the pad I put silicone to keep the pad soft an
> aid in shifting the rubber from one postion to the next.
>
<SNIP>
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 07:51:10 -0400
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Stainless Steel Frame
I agree with this!
The question is, to decide between a new SS frame, or a good repair of
the old one. Major repair work on a frame would also cause a safety
issue.
There is a uneasy feeling I would have with such a huge structural
change in a car without crash testing... and again, I am not a advocate
of crash testing deloreans!
Yeesh! I am glad I don't have to worry about this yet!
I did check out your car in Cincinnati, and was impressed. It is a
great idea, and a great product. My only reservation would be the
safety issue (and the price).
How many frames have been sold to date? Have any of those cars been in
a accident?
Bryan Pearce wrote:
> As far as a safety concern, I would much prefer to drive a DeLorean with
> a Stainless Steel frame, that has not been crash tested, instead of a
> rusty steel frame.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 07:57:11 -0400
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Losing Third Gear?
I have a similar problem. Rob Grady and I (separately) spent some time
trying to track down the needed parts to repair the 3rd gear syncro.
The cost for the parts would be in the $1100 range (Plus labor!). That
was before the trans was even opened up. There may be other damage.
My solution to the problem: Shift slowly in to 3rd gear. I noticed that
I only had the grind problem when I shifted too fast. In addition, PJ
grady replaced my adjustable clutch link (I had one already, but it wore
out!) and it seems to be better now. It will still grind if I shift too
fast. Maybe a SS braided clutch line will do the trick for me...
Just wanted to let you know that it is a potentially expensive repair.
I don't know how much a new trans is from DMC houston, but a used trans
may be your cheapest repair.
David Swingle wrote:
>
(SNIP)
>
> Symptom - when cold, no problem. Once the car warms up, I get an
> obnoxious "crunch" going into third gear. This only occurs going into
> third. The noise seems to come entirely from the shifter. The shifter
> itself seems to be fine, and doesn't do it with the engine off. I have
> replaced the clutch line with a stainless braided line, and added Grady's
> adjustable clutch link. I have worked on the linkage adjustment (it was
> way off, and the adjusters were loose so I wasn't the first) but can't
> make this noise go away.
>
> I'd guess that it's the third-gear syncho, but the heat sensitivity
> surprises me. Any ideas? The prior owner had already replaced the clutch
> line, (used something else so I changed it again) so I suspect that he
> was having problems and tore up the trans before changing the line. Also,
> in fourth gear there is a noticeable motion in the shifter as I get on
> and off the throttle. Bad trans mounts?
>
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 8:32:00 +0100
From: Pete.J.Smith@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: DML: legal import
I am/was looking into this.(busy at work - you know howit is) You
have to have owned the car for a minimum of six months. I'm not
sure
if you pay duty after that. From what i understood you can ship one
right after you buy it but you'll have to pay a duty fee.. If you
keep
it for six months then ship it you pay none or less duty. What did
you find out about the shipping costs..?
Usually the shipping company would take care of the dock costs and
sometimes the broker will take care of the import duty.. The you
just
pay him..
Hope this helps
Pete
______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________
Subject: DML: legal import
Author: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx%ussmtp at ccx400uk
Date: 28/07/98 01:31
Is there any rules about importing a delorean from the US to the UK I
understand about shipping cost but do you have to pay VAT and do you have
to have owned it for some time????
thanx for any help you guys can give, kieran.........................
Kieran Masterton
Technical Support at the easynet & ukonline national call centre
http://www.easynet.co.uk & www.ukonline.co.uk
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 10:39:18 -0500
From: Duke <at88mph@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Re: Idle Problems / Electrical Problems
Joe, as usual, is correct. I just wanted to add one thing. If you see a
spark
when you touch your positive terminal to the battery, try removing one
fuse at a
time and then touch the positive terminal to the battery again. If you
still see
a spark, reinsert the fuse and move on to the next. When you see no
spark,
you'll know where to start looking.
Hope this helps,
Duke
www.geocities.com/motorcity/8952/delorean.html
Joe wrote:
> 2. Any voltage reading with the engine running that is above 12V is
> acceptable.
> Something is draining your battery, here's an easy test. With everything
> turned off and the engine not running disconnect the positive lead going
> to
> your battery, wait 30 seconds than lightly touch the cable to the battery
> terminal, if you hear or see a spark something is the electrical system is
> draining your battery.
> Joe/DeLorean Services
> ----------
>
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 12:03:53 -0700
From: Jason Perkins <jperkins@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Stainless Steel Louvers
Here is a copy of an old posting that never received an answer...:
Does anyone know where I could find a set of the stainless steel louvers
and
engine cover? As far as I know, there was a company that made alimited run
of these.. Is this correct? Is that company still around? Has anybody
produced custom louvers?
Jason
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 14:41:24 -0700
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Burlwood Trim Set
In DeLorean World Vol. 6 #1 Inside the front cover, is an ad by DeLorean =
Specialties of Philadelphia, Pa. for several accesssories. Amongst them =
is a Carpathian Burlwood Trim Set for the horn pad cover with athe DMC =
Logo and center upper and lower console covers. The cost was listed as =
$412.50 complete or could be purchased separately. The ads were =
beautiful looking and in color. This was several years ago and are no =
longer advertised. =20
Has anyone any knowledge of this or seen any on DeLorean cars?
Murray Fisher
Vin 05962 Lic DMC-XII
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 01:08:38 -0400
From: "Joe " <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: Stainless Steel Louvers
Jason,
The name of the company was or is McCune Technology Inc., Fayetteville
Steel PO Box 53834, Fayetteville, NC 28305 Tel. 919 424-2978. The last
information I have on them is an ad they ran in DeLorean World in 1988, I
do not know if they are still in business or not.
Joe/DeLorean Services
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 06:04:36 EDT
From: FerrisBuh@xxxxxxx
Subject: DML: Cooling Fans
Hey everyone,
See if anyone here can determine this one: I have two new Bosch cooling
fans.
They work well. The pressure in the cooling sstem is a perfect 15 lbs. and
holding. However, for the life of me, even with a day old cooling fan
sending
switch and seal, I CANNOT GET THE FANS TO SHUT OFF ONCE THEY COME ON!
Anyone?
Gun in my mouth, pockets empty
Dave
#5252
Lic. INSECUR
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 06:15:21 EDT
From: WtrResQ@xxxxxxx
Subject: DML: dmc...clock
ive only had my "D" for about a month and a half. ive figured out the
radio
presets, but can anyone plz help me set the time.....thx
james
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 13:03:59 -0400
From: John Hanley <106165.1407@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: VAT on Re-imported Delorean's
Dear All,
I wanted to completely be sure about the facts, regarding importation of
a Delorean into the UK from the US. There had been many conflicting bits
ofinformation Yesterday I called the Local Office for HM Customs and
Excise the dreaded VAT Man..
The following is pretty much what was said.
JH "What would it cost me to import my DL from the US"
VAT Man.. "Well Sir, it is going to cost you 17=BD% of the value of the
car inclusive of the cost of shipping"
JH "And thats it.. what about Customs Duty"
VAT Man"The car was made in the Community ( EEC ) so there is no duty to
pay"
JH "Are you sure of this"
VAT Man " Yes Sir"
JH Well I understood that when the Delorean was originally exported from
Northern Ireland there was a special arrangement with DMC about Customs
Duties and that re-importation of this particular Vehicle back into the
UK"
VAT Man " No Sir"
JH .. " So the only thing that we could argue about is the value of the
car"
VAT Man " Well Sir if a bill of sale is more than 6 months Old for your
Vehicle we have a department that is able to give us a value for what
that car would be Purchased for by the trade. You could of course say
that the vehicle isnt worth that much and normally the Trade Value is
approx 2/3rds its true value. We however go off what it would be
purchased for by the Trade."
VAT Man.. "Dont Forget Sir you have to include the VAT due on the
Shipping portion of the costs also "
JH .. "So Vat on Trade value, No customs Duty and Vat on the Shipping"
VAT Man "Yes Sir"
JH .. "Okay As an example for instance I paid $XXXXX for mine 18 months
ago, What is it going to cost me"
Vat Man.. "Let me Put it to the valuation Section and get the information
for you. They are currently very busy and it may take a little while its
all because of the strength of the Pound Sterling, lots of Community cars
coming into the country (BMWs etc etc)"
JH .. "Yeah I can understand that"
VAT Man "Let me take a few details and I will have it processed for you
Sir"
JH "Okay great Vin Number 16369 year 1983, condition-mint, Mileage 9000
is that sufficient"
VAT Man "Yes Sir I will get back to you it could take some time"
(Approx 18 hours later)
VAT Man " Mr Hanley regarding your Delorean, I have had the information
back from the Valuation department, the trade values your Vehicle at in
mint condition at Pounds STG 11,600. Now that isnt the value of the car
but what they would purchase the vehicle for"
JH <wiping sweat from brow> "Oh great and the Trade would mark this up by
33%"
VAT Man " Yes Sir they have overheads and need to make a living"
JH .. "Thats great thank you very much" "What if I was moving to the UK
from the US"
VAT Man "In the instance where you are moving your Permanent residence to
the UK you are allowed to bring your vehicle with you, but only one
vehicle per person free of VAT and Duty, You must prove however, that you
have continuously owned the vehicle for more than 6 months"
JH "Hmm well I cant really do that .. I spend a lot of time in the
colonies <Coughs and muffled giggles> but I pay tax here in the UK, so I
cant pull that one"
VAT Man "No Mr Hanley, you really cant pull that trick"
VAT Man " You could temporarily import your vehicle though, however you
must state when it is returning"
JH "I wish, that would be a fruitless and costly exercise like waving
goodbye to a loved one"
VAT Man "Delorean isnt that the one with the Aluminium or Stainless body
or something?"
JH "Yup Stainless"
VAT Man "Oh almost forgot the valuation dept said, if the vehicle had
been painted, you can knock off 20% of the 11,600 figure. I guess your's
is original"
JH "Yes it is." "So I have to Find 7/47ths of 11,600 plus 7/47ths of the
shipping cost, what happens then?"
VAT Man " When you have paid your VAT you will be issued with a C&E 386
form, with this you will be able to prove that the VAT has been paid, you
will then be allowed to register the Vehicle"
JH "Well thank you for all the information its been a great help"
Vat Man " You Are welcome Mr Hanley"
I trust that this helps clear some of the confusion, many thanks to Mr
Peter Duffy of HM Customs and Excise for clarifying this.
John Hanley
Vin #16369
------------------------------
End of dmcnews-digest V3 #393
*****************************
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