dmcnews-digest Monday, July 27 1998 Volume 03 : Number 392
In this issue:
DML: K&N & Synthetic Oil Filters
DML: Euro springs and shocks
Re: DML: Hot weather DeLorean driving (was: Parts cross
DML: RE: a/c retrofit
DML: performance
DML: Delorean Post Cards?
DML: Biloxi, MS meeting
DML: Re: K&N & Synthetic Oil Filters
DML: Door ajar light ON ?
Re: DML: RE: a/c retrofit
DML: 81 Delorean Parting Out
Re: DML: Euro springs and shocks
DML: Fuel
Re: DML: performance
Re: DML: RE: a/c retrofit
Re: DML: Catalytic Converter
DML: Door Ajar Light and Battery Drain
Re: DML: DeLorean Expo '98 - Los Angeles
DML: Re: RE: a/c retrofit
DML: [admin] List down until Monday night
Re: DML: New horns are working finally!
DML: found one
Re: DML: Catalytic Converter
DML: RE: Door Ajar Light and Battery Drain
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 22:09:07 -0700
From: Matt Peak <mpeak@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: K&N & Synthetic Oil Filters
I was wondering if somebody could please send me the recent posting (last
2
months or so) about a certain K&N air filter that can be modified to fit
our cars (or at least give me the K&N part number). I'm having trouble
finding this in the back issues.
Also, has anybody tried the synthetic oil filter brand "Hard Driver" on
the
Delorean yet? If so, what model number did you use? I think I've found a
model that will successfully work on the Delorean and if nobody on the
list
has tried it yet, I guess I will be the first.
Many thanks for your replies.
Matt Peak
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 21:35:41 +0000
From: kenm@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: DML: Euro springs and shocks
Normally, I wouldn't want to be branded as being cheap, but I'm on
the verge of replacing my shocks, tires, and while I'm at it,
lowering the front of the car. I see the a stock set of front springs
are about $88 and the price for all 4 shocks is $245. Now I can
understand the price for the springs. but $245 for 4 shocks? Worse
yet, for 17 year old stock shocks? Rubber parts and seals just don't
last that long no matter how well you store them. Actually, this
bothers me more than the price. I would imagine that some amount of
progress has been made in the last 17 years in shock technology, or
at the least I just don't want to buy old 'new' shocks!
Looking back through the DML archives, I found a reference to Napa
gas charged deluxe HD # 94037 for the front shocks. These are also
supposed be better for the 'travel' when the front has been lowered.
As to lowering the front, that's all I want to lower. I just want the
wheel wells and the bottom to be even. The front it almost exactly
1.5 inches higher than the back at the wheel wells.
So what I need here is some REAL part numbers. Where's the place to
go for the right springs (no swapping around.. I only want to replace
the fronts), and I really need a place to buy NEW new shocks. Please
help?
- -------------------------------------------------------
Ken Montgomery My DeLorean VIN #10911 'OUTTIME'
Sacramento, CA
kenm@xxxxxxxx "When the wind gets under these wings
Operating You will feel what freedom brings"
Systems Analyst From 'On-Air' Alan Parsons
(916) 278-7646
http://www.jps.net/arkham/delorean01.htm
- -------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 02:01:46 EDT
From: KayoOng@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DML: Hot weather DeLorean driving (was: Parts cross
Joe,
Optima batteries are manufactured by a firm called Spiralcell Technology.
They are a member of the Gylling Group Of Scandinavia which is
established in
1912. The Optima Batteries "The Ultimate Starter." 17500 E. 22nd Avenue,
Aurora, CO 80011, (303)340-7440 and (303)340-7474 Fax.
They make about 5 different batteries. Two Deep Cycle Batteries
available in
top and dual post 12 volts, very expensive about $180.00 plus, they are
yellow
top in color.
Two "Ultimate" batteries available in top and dual post 12 volts, 800 cold
cranking amps with 120 minuets reserve capacity. ZERO maintenance free,
100%
sealed. They claim over 9,000 starts, installs in any position, stored
up to
two years and can be shipped anywhere by air. It is red top in color and
$140.00
Last for those who need a top post 6 volts "Ultimate" battery, red top,
not
sure of the price.
I have known about the Optima battery for several years. They are sold in
"speed shops," car audio shops, high end automotive shops. I was
reluctant
and I have avoid these batteries like everything else that is "new."
Fourteen years ago, I was in the retail and wholesale end of the
automotive
industry for over 10 years. I ran two outlets, and carried many
automotive
lines and several different major known brands of cars, trucks,
motorcycle and
boats batteries. Since my involvement with battery manufactures in their
return policies and their "rate" of defects, I was reluctant to spend big
bucks for the Optima battery. I didn't know how good or reliable they
can be.
I recently heard many good things about them through many different
sources.
Since my battery is over 30 months old, I decided to get my Optima
through PJ
Grady, a "Ultimate" red top dual post. I now wonder what the Deep Cycle
Battery Yellow Top can do? There is a big difference in price between the
"Ultimate and the Deep Cycle" batteries and PJ Grady did not carry the
Deep
Cycle model anyway.
I now have had the Optima red top in the DeLorean the last four weeks and
put
on over 2,200 miles.
Again, I am impress at the performance of the battery. The Stereo system
sound better, the bass sounds more solid and the sound is sweeter, no
questions about it. The ignition system fires up better??? The recharge
time
is at least 1/3 if not 1/4 the Delco's battery. Ther is more power,
period!
It is still just a "little cure" for the poor 90 amp Motorola alternator.
Now
I need help on the alternator. With all the "original" electrical
equipment
on (especially A/C, wipers and headlights on), plus the "new added on"
accessories such as radar detector, hi power stereo amplifier, CD
changer, CB
radio, palm and lap top computer---HELP! What about auxiliary or fog
lights
or any other electrical "add ons"? FORGET ABOUT IT! If you have
everything
on you better be doing over 2,500 RPMS.
I think if there is an 120 amp alternator with an Optima battery is the
way to
go!
Kayo Ong
#05508
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 09:34:52 EDT
From: DTrue10521@xxxxxxx
Subject: DML: RE: a/c retrofit
I would information on; Which freon to use in, how much to use, in a
81DMC.
Is retrofit possible? thank you.
dan true #03437
dtrue10521@xxxxxxx
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 10:12:22 -0500
From: "CUSICK, RUSSELL M" <rcusick@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: performance
I am thinking about purchasing a DMC-12 mainly because I like the
uniqueness of the car. I would like to find some info on tried and true
performance enhancing mods for both HP and handling. Can you folks on
the list send me in the right direction?
thanks for your help.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 16:38:10 -0400
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Delorean Post Cards?
Trading cards... and Post cards!
http://pwp.starnetinc.com/aljung/DELOREANCARDS.jpg
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 18:31:00 -0500
From: steve r <stephenr@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Biloxi, MS meeting
Dear friends,
I have finally gotten around to finding our place to meet Aug. 9th,
1998. I couldn't have done it without the help of a Biloxi friend. We
will be meeting sometime around noon and I believe there will be two
Louisiana owners, three Alabama owners and one Mississippi enthusiast.
The name of the place we will get together is Morison's Fresh
Cooking. They are located at 9400 Hwy. 49 and are in Gulfport. I hope
this place will be easy to find since it is located across the street
from Wal-Mart. If you need to call them they are at 228-868-2962.
If you know anyone that would like to attend or if you feel you
would like to show up and haven't said anything yet then please feel
free to let me know something. I am at 504-386-3816 and can be
contacted almost anytime.
Sincerely,
Steve Rice
P.S. If you need instructions on how to get there let me know and I
will send you a map with detailed instructions. Or visit
www.yahoo.com and select get maps.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 17:44:50 -0700
From: "Dave Price" <davep@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: K&N & Synthetic Oil Filters
>I was wondering if somebody could please send me the recent posting (last
>2
>months or so) about a certain K&N air filter that can be modified to fit
>our cars (or at least give me the K&N part number). I'm having trouble
>finding this in the back issues.
It's 33-2002 .. you just have to put it in upside down, which doesn't
really
matter, as the element is identical on both sides... It's just the rubber
part that doesn't fit right the "normal" way.
I've had it in for a while, and even though I haven't noticed any
improvement, I feel better knowing the air going in the engine is
cleaner...
Take it easy!
Dave
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 22:45:52 -0700
From: "Richard J.Myosky" <rjm@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Door ajar light ON ?
Just had my car on the road for the first time,everything worked
great.Thanks for the help and reply on the frequency valve
replacement,Jerry Rine in Newark had the part in stock.This took care of
my fuel leaks in the engine compartment.
In the morning,I'm going to replace the dash and instrument binnacle
which are badly sun damaged.While driving the car today,the door ajar
light came on and stayed on.Both doors close evenly and lock and unlock
with no problem.Even holding the door light button and door buzzer in
with my finger had no effect on putting out the light. I even uplugged
the wires leading to the door switches on both sides.Is there something
I can look for since I'll have the dash out anyway ?
I have been having a battery drain problem since picking up the car
last month.The car had been setting for 4 or 5 years and all the
electrical connections needed cleaned.The battery checked out OK with a
load test and all the cells are good.I know I will have more to clean
when I pull the dash and can see what I have under there.But to keep
from recharging the battery,I installed a battery elimanator switch
behind the passenger seat.
On another note,I had a Delorean Owner here in town
(Sandusky,Oh.)give me a call and stopped by to trade stories on keeping
these cars running. He claims to be a lurker of this site for some time
with no postings.Nice to know I can run over and see how something is
supposed to look before I do the reinstall.
Thanks Again
Richard J.Myosky #4419
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 22:40:44 -0400
From: "Michael B. Kachmarik" <MKACHMAR@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: RE: a/c retrofit
Dan,
I have a 81 Delorean and a 84 Seville. Both are GM like air conditioner.
At "Parts America" Store I just bought an air conditioning convertion kit
for the 84 Seville. It is three cans of freon and 1 large can of oil,
with a change of fitting and a hose kit for the install, about $34.95 for
the kit. The conversion is easy and works great. Next time I am going to
do it to the delorean
Good luck, if you try it let me know of the out come.
Michael Kachmarik
=A0
DTrue10521@xxxxxxx wrote:
> I would information on;=A0 Which freon to use in, how much to use, in a
> 81DMC.
>
> Is retrofit possible?=A0 thank you.
>
> dan true #03437
>
> dtrue10521@xxxxxxx
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 23:19:45 -0700
From: William Prince <wprince@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: 81 Delorean Parting Out
Well gentlemen and Ladies;
Since no one seems interested in buying the entire car I will therefore
part it out and keep the body and frame, which I will adapt for a V8
conversion.
I will part EVERYTHING except the body, frame, glass (except the rear
window which I will sell. This includes all the front & rear suspension,
the motor (needs rebuilding-does not run) with or without all excessories
except alt. & starter which are missing, the trans (5-speed - good
condition), all electrical components that can be salvaged, the
instruments
less the enclosing pod, etc. Also have the wheels and tires (BFR COMP TA -
good condition and tread - lite weather checking is all), etc.
All the existing wiring and electrical chassis components will be stripped
and available as well. Only one tail lens available. The rear engine
cover
and louveres and pretty much complete but broken - will need repair.
I am planning to go ahead and use a Pontiac Fiero running gear with a
Zumalt V8 conversion kit with a 550HP Chevy smallblock. This will require
removing and sectioning the rear of the chassis and widening the engine
compartment area so if and frame partsd are needed from that area I will
do
a nive neat cutout, basically from a location in line with the front of
the
existing transmission rearward.
I would still consider selling the complete car but will not waste anymore
time with lookey-lous, etc. The deadline to sell the ENTIRE car as is will
be Monday, after that it will be parts only as I will be pulling the
engine
& trans out of the car and stripping it! Although I have been told I could
get 2 to 3 times the money from parting it out I am asking only $3000.00
for the entire car.
If serious, do NOT Email, if you can afford to buy, you can afford a phone
call, otherwise you will just waste both of our time.
William Prince
Las Vegas, Nv.
702-258-4799
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1998 03:13:57 EDT
From: KayoOng@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DML: Euro springs and shocks
Order front springs only from PJ Grady. Front springs available in three
different heights.
2", 1 1/2" and 1" approximate.
If you should change your mind and want to replace front and the rears
"correctly," get them from DeLorean Motor Company. This combination will
lower the DeLorean evenly all around.
Kayo Ong
#05508
Lic. 9D NY
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1998 11:10:47 +0100
From: Kieran Masterton <kieran@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Fuel
Hiya
I have just subscribed I am 17 and live in the UK. I am well on my way to
having enough money to buy my first delorean. First of all has anyone got
any Tips for buying a delorean from over seas and not get ripped off and
secondly in the UK 4 star petrol will be band in the year 2000 and I
wanted
to know how much it will cost to covert the head and or put a CAT into the
delorean ?
If anyone can help I would be very greatful as I do not want to loose all
my money on a reck.
Thanx........................
Kieran Masterton
Easynet Technical Support
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1998 08:09:40 -0400
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: performance
Yup...search the back issues of the DeLorean Mailing List.
http://www.dmcnews.com/search.html
CUSICK, RUSSELL M wrote:
>
> I am thinking about purchasing a DMC-12 mainly because I like the
> uniqueness of the car. I would like to find some info on tried and true
> performance enhancing mods for both HP and handling. Can you folks on
> the list send me in the right direction?
>
> thanks for your help.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1998 08:21:00 -0400
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: RE: a/c retrofit
I would recommend NOT converting the system.
R134A does not cool as well as R-12, and is under much more pressure-
pushing the limits of the hoses, compressor, and seals.
If you have a marginal system, R134A will kill it. I have seen dead
compressors, and leaks on converted systems.
If you decide NOT to switch to R134a, be aware that there are some
"black market" cheap R-12's out there that are blended with Propane.
The propane will cool better than r-12, and will not damage your system,
but if you have a leak in the system you could explode!
If you DO decide to switch to R134a, completely flush the system. You
must change all of the O-ring seals to newer high pressure ones (They
are blue or green instead of the old black ones). Remove the
compressor, drain and flush ALL of the oil out of there. I would also
change the receiver/dryer, and orifice tube.
If the R134a mixes with the R12 mineral oil you will clog the orifice
tube, and eventually damage the compressor. Depending on your AC use,
the problem may not occur for a year or 2 after you do the conversion.
To do the conversion correctly, it will cost as much if not more than a
full R-12 recharge.
DTrue10521@xxxxxxx wrote:
>
> I would information on; Which freon to use in, how much to use, in a
> 81DMC.
>
> Is retrofit possible? thank you.
>
> dan true #03437
>
> dtrue10521@xxxxxxx
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1998 08:25:54 -0400
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Catalytic Converter
I have passed NJ inspection without the cats for a few years now.
Your problem may have been because the system had been "tuned" taking in
to consideration the O2 sensor readings with the added backpressure of
the CATs.
Was the idle mixture re-set after the cats were removed?
Does Illinois only test at Idle? or are the using the new Dyno style
test?
C. Longwisch wrote:
>
> Several months ago I posed an inquiry if the DeLorean would possibly pass
> an emissions test without the cat converter. The replies I received back
> were not from actual tests so I recently took my car with the hollow
> (without catalyst) converter to get tested. It failed. I put a new cat on
> it and it passed with almost no hydrocarbons or carbonmonoxide. The
> following are the results with the without / with and (state standards).
> Hydrocarbons ppm 926 / 8 (220)Carbonmonoxide % 0.35 / 0.02 (1.20) ,
> Carbonmonoxide+Carbondioxide 10.25 / 13.14 (>6.00 higher better in this
> case) .
>
> In summary the car does need the cat to pass Illinois tailpipe test
> however
> I can tell you after driving the car without the cat it does run better
> without the backpressure Butttttttt a reduction in emissions of this
> magnitude is impressive and important to the environment! No other changes
> were made between tests. The CO was low on the first test because I
> "leaned" the mixture but kept it the same setting for the second test.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1998 09:30:29 -0400
From: Mike Substelny <SUBSTEM@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Door Ajar Light and Battery Drain
Richard J.Myosky said:
> While driving the car today,the door ajar light came on and stayed
> on. Both doors close evenly and lock and unlock with no problem.
> Even holding the door light button and door buzzer in with my finger
> had no effect on putting out the light. I even uplugged the wires
> leading to the door switches on both sides.
Richard, do your red and amber door marker lights work when the doors
are open? Do they go off when the doors are closed? What about the
engine compartment light?
I believe that you and I have the same electrical gremlin. Between us we
might be able to find the cure. Here are my symptoms:
In 1994 when I first got my DeLorean it drained the battery every single
night. I ended up installing a kill switch like many other owners.
After a
few weeks I noticed that the marker lights on the passenger door never
turned off. Even if I pressed the switch by hand or removed the wires
from the switch completely the lights would not go out!
A few months later while cleaning the engine compartment I had a
moment of serendipity: I discovered that the switch that controls the
engine compartment light was full of crud. IMO this switch is of a cheap
design, just like the glovebox light switch, and the engine compartment is
an awfully dirty environment for such a light duty unit. I further
discovered that if I took apart the switch and cleaned out that crud the
marker lights on the passenger door would GO OFF and stay off.
To this day I have no idea why the engine compartment switch affected
the passenger side marker lights, but I decided then and there that I
would simply disconnect the engine compartment light (which I never use
anyway). Thereafter both the battery drain and marker light problems
were solved.
Fast forward to 1998 . . . those marker lights began to turn themselves
on AGAIN! Unfortunately this time I cannot cure it by cleaning the engine
compartment light switch because that switch is not in the car!
As an interim solution I pulled the fuse on the marker light / dome light
circuit. Once again my battery drain is solved. But now for some
inexplicable reason whenever my engine is running my "Door Ajar" light
comes on and stays on.
The "Door Ajar" lights really have me confused, but if we keep at it I am
sure we can figure out what is going on here.
- - Mike Substelny
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1998 10:58:58 EDT
From: KKoncelik@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DML: DeLorean Expo '98 - Los Angeles
Hi
I do plan on attending the Expo In La if at all possible and I can
appreciate
the time and effort that goes into these events. I think the only thing I
would add to what is said is that these events are for us DeLorean owners
and
as long as they are attended people like the DOA and myself will put on
the
events. Its a great bunch of people and I would for one like to be able
to do
more.
Thanks again for all your support
ken
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1998 14:36:36 -0400
From: "Joe " <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: RE: a/c retrofit
Dan,
R-12, 2.2lb.
Joe/DeLorean Services
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1998 15:48:21 -0000
From: James Espey <espey@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: [admin] List down until Monday night
The DeLorean Mailing List will be "down" from Saturday morning, July 25
until Monday night, July 27. My apologies for the inconvenience.
James Espey
Moderator, DeLorean Mailing List
http://www.dmcnews.com/
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1998 17:17:21 -0600
From: Jim Nichols <jhnichols@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: New horns are working finally!
> Snip---Somehow I wasn't getting enough
> power from the 'stock' source. Here's another strange thing, no matter
> what constant wire I used, (other than the battery itself) all I would
> get is the 'clicking' sound. I've decided to run a wire from the
> positive terminal and, using a inline fuse, connect this to the wire for
> the horn switch.
>
> Thanks for listening,
>
> Duke
>From what you describe, your new horns are drawing a lot more current than
the old ones, the feed wire can't handle the extra draw and and you get
low
voltage, and resultant low current to the horns. Most other horns use a
horn relay, a 30 amp 12 volt relay that is cheap and available at any
parts
store. Your horn switch may not be able to handle your 2 new horns and
you'll end up with a fried switch. It doesn't look like an easy job to
change the signal/headlamp flasher/horn switch unit, although it may be
easy once you get the steering wheel off. If you connect your new feed
wire to the relay and use the horn switch to turn on the relay, you may
save yourself a lot of time and trouble.
Jim #6884
- ----------------- End Forwarded Message -----------------
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1998 16:32:14 PDT
From: "Derek Burton" <burtond1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: found one
Hello fellow DMC'ers,
I hope to soon join you. I am looking at a DMC this weekend here in
Hawaii- kind of tough to find out here. I will keep you posted on what
I find.
Aloha,
Derek E Burton
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1998 22:15:28 -0500
From: "C. Longwisch" <CL1954@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Catalytic Converter
Marc,
I listed the Illinois limits. Are yours as stringent? We are currently
only
tailpipe but will be going to the dyno test in October. The car was tuned
without the cat with all new plugs,cap,rotor,wires, and as I stated
"leaned" before the test. As the results showed I was more than 4 times
the
hydrocarbon limit without the cat but reduced it to an unbelievable 8 ppm
with it.
Cecil Longwisch
DMC1982
VIN# 10663
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 1998 00:58:25 -0500
From: Duke <at88mph@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: RE: Door Ajar Light and Battery Drain
Mike,
Do you have an alarm system???? On my 'D, when they installed the alarm =
system, they had it wired so when one door was open, the lights were on =
on both doors. I believe they did it this way so that it would only use =
one wire (to the alarm) and if either door opened, it would set it off. =
Maybe on yours (if you do have an alarm) they also hooked up the engine =
light (and possibly the trunk light) this way instead of using a pin =
switch for the compartments. =20
Hope this helps,
Duke
PS If you don't have an alarm...ummm never mind
- -----Original Message-----
From: Mike Substelny [SMTP:SUBSTEM@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Friday, July 24, 1998 8:30 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: DML: Door Ajar Light and Battery Drain
To this day I have no idea why the engine compartment switch affected =
the passenger side marker lights, but I decided then and there that I =
would simply disconnect the engine compartment light (which I never use =
anyway). Thereafter both the battery drain and marker light problems =
were solved.
------------------------------
End of dmcnews-digest V3 #392
*****************************
Postings to the DELOREAN MAILING LIST are the opinions of the author and
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actual fact without research and investigation of your own.
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