Re: [DMCForum] Re: Cooling system failure

[DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683@xxxxxxxxx>]

It is on the back of the engine behind the passenger side cylinder 
head. here is one for sale 
http://www.pearce-design.com/ProductBleedAdaptor.html

It is part #5, see here   http://tinyurl.com/6dw54


Mark V





On Tuesday, October 5, 2004, at 11:48  PM, mw98gt wrote:

>
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> What is the heater hose "T"?  What heater hose?
>
> So I should just drain from the motor?
>
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> --- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
>>> How do I drain whatever coolant is left in my system?
>>
>> The original radiators do not have petcocks, but many of the
>> replacement ones do.  For one without, just pull off the
>> lower hose being careful not to break the plastic nipple
>> (for radiators that have plastic tanks.)  If you do this
>> laying down, keep your mouth closed and cover your eyes.
>> Coolant is yummy; BTW, but try not to experience this first
>> hand.  The connection has very little clearance, so you may
>> need to take both clamps off the hose and then slide the
>> hose up the pipe.  If you are buying parts from Toby, I
>> recommend the inline valve he sells that goes on the upper
>> bleed line of the radiator.  In either case, be sure to burp
>> the line or you could have air stuck in there.
>>
>> The engine has two coolant drain plugs -- one on each side
>> of the engine.  They are the same style as the oil drain
>> plug.  You will need the proper socket with a long extension
>> to get to them.  If you really want to flush the engine
>> without having to properly dispose of (or recycle) lots of
>> diluted coolant, removing these plugs is the way to go.
>> They use the same copper crush washers as the oil drain plug
>> and should not be reused.  These are common autoparts store
>> items.  Dont use the hollow-type crush washers as these can
>> leak with coolant but aren't as bad for leaking oil.
>> Instead use crush washers made from thick copper sheet
>> metal.  Consider coating the plugs with something that will
>> keep coolant off of the threads and is thick & heat tolerant
>> enough to keep it from washing out.  This will make the
>> plugs easier to remove next time.  What doesn't work here is
>> anti-seize or heavy grease.  Teflon tape may work but be
>> careful with it.  I just tried an engine with a type of
>> crayon that NAPA sells to coat spark plug threads.  I'll
>> know how well it works the next time I drain the coolant.
>>
>>> How many gallons of coolant does the car hold around?
>>
>> The spec is in the service manual.  I completely fill the
>> system with distilled water (approximately 3 gallons) &
>> pressure test to 15 psi for 15 minutes.  Again, the manual
>> gives the specs for the pressure test (if you have such a
>> fixture.)  It is also good to run the engine, make sure all
>> the air is out, get it hot and look for drips as it cools
>> down.  Then I add 1.5 gallons of antifreeze to the header
>> bottle while leaving the bleeder screw open (or self-bleeder
>> hose disconnected.)  The point of entry of the new
>> antifreeze is far enough away from the drain point that you
>> wont loose any new antifreeze this way.  (Do it without the
>> engine running!).  The end result is a topped off system of
>> 50% water & 50% antifreeze.
>>
>>> What coolant is recommended?
>>
>> The service manual gives some guidelines.  The main thing is
>> to stay away from Dex-Cool compatible coolants.  The reason
>> is that the chemistry is not compatible with lead solder
>> contained in the heater core and replacement brass
>> radiators.  If you use it anyway, you will develops leaks
>> because of it.  I like to use the regular green Prestone.
>>
>>> I am sure it doesnt really matter,
>> but what oil is recommended for this car (brand and blend)?
>>
>> Dont get us started on that!  Everyone has their own
>> opinion.  Some like synthetic/some dont.  Some like
>> thick/others like thin, etc, etc.
>>
>> My 'opinion' is to use Castrol since so many people love the
>> brake fluid they sell.  I stay away from synthetic because
>> it is expensive and tends to leak easier.  The PRV crank
>> case is based on an old diesel configuration, so high-tech
>> oil isn't going to make a big difference like it could in a
>> higher revving engine.  Choose an oil that has a small
>> range.  For example choose 15W-40 over 10W-50.  The reason
>> is that the smaller range oil has less additives to make it
>> thicken up as temperature changes.  Less additives means
>> less crap to break down or precipitate out of suspension.
>>
>> As part of your shopping list, consider buying a new heater
>> hose "T".  I like the brass one that Bryan Pearce sells (the
>> guy who makes the SS frames.)  If you have had leaky
>> connections around the original aluminum ones, it can be
>> pitted so bad that the fitting itself will have holes.
>>
>> Walt
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