[DMCForum] Re: Cooling system failure

["mw98gt" <mw98gt@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Thank you, I will order it tomorrow.  I have ordered I believe 
everything now.

Walt, can you explain to me the overflow tube setup you have on your 
car?  What I need and how to do it.


--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683@xxxx> wrote:
> It is on the back of the engine behind the passenger side cylinder 
> head. here is one for sale 
> http://www.pearce-design.com/ProductBleedAdaptor.html
> 
> It is part #5, see here   http://tinyurl.com/6dw54
> 
> 
> Mark V
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Tuesday, October 5, 2004, at 11:48  PM, mw98gt wrote:
> 
> >
> >
> > What is the heater hose "T"?  What heater hose?
> >
> > So I should just drain from the motor?
> >
> >
> > --- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> >>> How do I drain whatever coolant is left in my system?
> >>
> >> The original radiators do not have petcocks, but many of the
> >> replacement ones do.  For one without, just pull off the
> >> lower hose being careful not to break the plastic nipple
> >> (for radiators that have plastic tanks.)  If you do this
> >> laying down, keep your mouth closed and cover your eyes.
> >> Coolant is yummy; BTW, but try not to experience this first
> >> hand.  The connection has very little clearance, so you may
> >> need to take both clamps off the hose and then slide the
> >> hose up the pipe.  If you are buying parts from Toby, I
> >> recommend the inline valve he sells that goes on the upper
> >> bleed line of the radiator.  In either case, be sure to burp
> >> the line or you could have air stuck in there.
> >>
> >> The engine has two coolant drain plugs -- one on each side
> >> of the engine.  They are the same style as the oil drain
> >> plug.  You will need the proper socket with a long extension
> >> to get to them.  If you really want to flush the engine
> >> without having to properly dispose of (or recycle) lots of
> >> diluted coolant, removing these plugs is the way to go.
> >> They use the same copper crush washers as the oil drain plug
> >> and should not be reused.  These are common autoparts store
> >> items.  Dont use the hollow-type crush washers as these can
> >> leak with coolant but aren't as bad for leaking oil.
> >> Instead use crush washers made from thick copper sheet
> >> metal.  Consider coating the plugs with something that will
> >> keep coolant off of the threads and is thick & heat tolerant
> >> enough to keep it from washing out.  This will make the
> >> plugs easier to remove next time.  What doesn't work here is
> >> anti-seize or heavy grease.  Teflon tape may work but be
> >> careful with it.  I just tried an engine with a type of
> >> crayon that NAPA sells to coat spark plug threads.  I'll
> >> know how well it works the next time I drain the coolant.
> >>
> >>> How many gallons of coolant does the car hold around?
> >>
> >> The spec is in the service manual.  I completely fill the
> >> system with distilled water (approximately 3 gallons) &
> >> pressure test to 15 psi for 15 minutes.  Again, the manual
> >> gives the specs for the pressure test (if you have such a
> >> fixture.)  It is also good to run the engine, make sure all
> >> the air is out, get it hot and look for drips as it cools
> >> down.  Then I add 1.5 gallons of antifreeze to the header
> >> bottle while leaving the bleeder screw open (or self-bleeder
> >> hose disconnected.)  The point of entry of the new
> >> antifreeze is far enough away from the drain point that you
> >> wont loose any new antifreeze this way.  (Do it without the
> >> engine running!).  The end result is a topped off system of
> >> 50% water & 50% antifreeze.
> >>
> >>> What coolant is recommended?
> >>
> >> The service manual gives some guidelines.  The main thing is
> >> to stay away from Dex-Cool compatible coolants.  The reason
> >> is that the chemistry is not compatible with lead solder
> >> contained in the heater core and replacement brass
> >> radiators.  If you use it anyway, you will develops leaks
> >> because of it.  I like to use the regular green Prestone.
> >>
> >>> I am sure it doesnt really matter,
> >> but what oil is recommended for this car (brand and blend)?
> >>
> >> Dont get us started on that!  Everyone has their own
> >> opinion.  Some like synthetic/some dont.  Some like
> >> thick/others like thin, etc, etc.
> >>
> >> My 'opinion' is to use Castrol since so many people love the
> >> brake fluid they sell.  I stay away from synthetic because
> >> it is expensive and tends to leak easier.  The PRV crank
> >> case is based on an old diesel configuration, so high-tech
> >> oil isn't going to make a big difference like it could in a
> >> higher revving engine.  Choose an oil that has a small
> >> range.  For example choose 15W-40 over 10W-50.  The reason
> >> is that the smaller range oil has less additives to make it
> >> thicken up as temperature changes.  Less additives means
> >> less crap to break down or precipitate out of suspension.
> >>
> >> As part of your shopping list, consider buying a new heater
> >> hose "T".  I like the brass one that Bryan Pearce sells (the
> >> guy who makes the SS frames.)  If you have had leaky
> >> connections around the original aluminum ones, it can be
> >> pitted so bad that the fitting itself will have holes.
> >>
> >> Walt
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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