[DMCForum] Re: Cooling system failure

["mw98gt" <mw98gt@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

What is the heater hose "T"?  What heater hose?

So I should just drain from the motor?


--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> > How do I drain whatever coolant is left in my system?
> 
> The original radiators do not have petcocks, but many of the
> replacement ones do.  For one without, just pull off the
> lower hose being careful not to break the plastic nipple
> (for radiators that have plastic tanks.)  If you do this
> laying down, keep your mouth closed and cover your eyes.
> Coolant is yummy; BTW, but try not to experience this first
> hand.  The connection has very little clearance, so you may
> need to take both clamps off the hose and then slide the
> hose up the pipe.  If you are buying parts from Toby, I
> recommend the inline valve he sells that goes on the upper
> bleed line of the radiator.  In either case, be sure to burp
> the line or you could have air stuck in there.
> 
> The engine has two coolant drain plugs -- one on each side
> of the engine.  They are the same style as the oil drain
> plug.  You will need the proper socket with a long extension
> to get to them.  If you really want to flush the engine
> without having to properly dispose of (or recycle) lots of
> diluted coolant, removing these plugs is the way to go.
> They use the same copper crush washers as the oil drain plug
> and should not be reused.  These are common autoparts store
> items.  Dont use the hollow-type crush washers as these can
> leak with coolant but aren't as bad for leaking oil.
> Instead use crush washers made from thick copper sheet
> metal.  Consider coating the plugs with something that will
> keep coolant off of the threads and is thick & heat tolerant
> enough to keep it from washing out.  This will make the
> plugs easier to remove next time.  What doesn't work here is
> anti-seize or heavy grease.  Teflon tape may work but be
> careful with it.  I just tried an engine with a type of
> crayon that NAPA sells to coat spark plug threads.  I'll
> know how well it works the next time I drain the coolant.
> 
> > How many gallons of coolant does the car hold around?
> 
> The spec is in the service manual.  I completely fill the
> system with distilled water (approximately 3 gallons) &
> pressure test to 15 psi for 15 minutes.  Again, the manual
> gives the specs for the pressure test (if you have such a
> fixture.)  It is also good to run the engine, make sure all
> the air is out, get it hot and look for drips as it cools
> down.  Then I add 1.5 gallons of antifreeze to the header
> bottle while leaving the bleeder screw open (or self-bleeder
> hose disconnected.)  The point of entry of the new
> antifreeze is far enough away from the drain point that you
> wont loose any new antifreeze this way.  (Do it without the
> engine running!).  The end result is a topped off system of
> 50% water & 50% antifreeze.
> 
> > What coolant is recommended?
> 
> The service manual gives some guidelines.  The main thing is
> to stay away from Dex-Cool compatible coolants.  The reason
> is that the chemistry is not compatible with lead solder
> contained in the heater core and replacement brass
> radiators.  If you use it anyway, you will develops leaks
> because of it.  I like to use the regular green Prestone.
> 
> > I am sure it doesnt really matter,
> but what oil is recommended for this car (brand and blend)?
> 
> Dont get us started on that!  Everyone has their own
> opinion.  Some like synthetic/some dont.  Some like
> thick/others like thin, etc, etc.
> 
> My 'opinion' is to use Castrol since so many people love the
> brake fluid they sell.  I stay away from synthetic because
> it is expensive and tends to leak easier.  The PRV crank
> case is based on an old diesel configuration, so high-tech
> oil isn't going to make a big difference like it could in a
> higher revving engine.  Choose an oil that has a small
> range.  For example choose 15W-40 over 10W-50.  The reason
> is that the smaller range oil has less additives to make it
> thicken up as temperature changes.  Less additives means
> less crap to break down or precipitate out of suspension.
> 
> As part of your shopping list, consider buying a new heater
> hose "T".  I like the brass one that Bryan Pearce sells (the
> guy who makes the SS frames.)  If you have had leaky
> connections around the original aluminum ones, it can be
> pitted so bad that the fitting itself will have holes.
> 
> Walt

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