[DMCForum] Re: !! - starting problem please back on track solved?

["Brian" <TK581@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

It was the fuel pump...damn - it was BRAND NEW!!

I put in the old one and it started right up...

BUT  I got to learn a hell of a lot and for that I am very thankful!!

Especially to you Rich for being patient with me and taking me 
through steps that may well come in handy in the future!!

thanks again!

--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Brian" <TK581@xxxx> wrote:
> I would like to thank everybody who offers thier knowledge.  When 
it 
> comes to electronics I am a beginner though so please be patient.
> 
> Okay, I got the starting fluid and tried it with the jumper in 
> place.  It did indeed start... then stop.  duh - should have 
known.  
> It seems pretty obvious that there is not enough or no power going 
> to the pump.  What struck me as odd though is that my pump is hot 
> where I never noticed that before.  I double checked the wires 
that 
> plug in right under the spare tire well (you know, the ones nearly 
> imposible to hook and un-hook - at least in my car)  The hot pump 
> kind of scares me but I'm going to swap the old pump back becasue 
it 
> makes sense in my own mind.  If that one doesn't get enough power 
> then I can assume it is an electrical problem.  I'll probably get 
a 
> new relay anyways just in case.
> 
> I hope I didn't blow anything up...
> 
> --- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> > Wow...
> > 
> > It's a mystery for sure. I mean is it really likely that the 
fuel 
> > pump AND the relay are faulty?
> > 
> > You do realize that you will only have voltage for 1 second when 
> the 
> > RPM relay is in place and you turn the key on right? The engine 
> has 
> > to be turning for the relay to engage constantly. The RPM relay 
> has a 
> > timer chip and an input from the ignition coil sensing engine 
> > rotation. It's a safety device. The fuel pump isn't meant to run 
> when 
> > the key is on, but the engine isn't running.
> > 
> > Hm...I agree with your choice of action. If you have voltage at 
> the 
> > fuel pump, ON THE FUEL PUMP +/- TERMINALS, and you have no 
sound, 
> or 
> > vibration, swap your old pump back in.
> > 
> > It would be a shame if your new pump died already. It has 
happened 
> > before though so I wouldn't be totally shocked.
> > 
> > Rich A.
> > 
> > --- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Brian" <TK581@xxxx> wrote:
> > > Okay - I didn't bother test starting it because with the 
jumper 
> (a 
> > > godd one) in place and a full battery I'm getting 9.5volts at 
> the 
> > > pump.  I do not hear the pump either (with ignition turned or 
> > off).  
> > > I might replace the new pump with my old one to check to see 
if 
> I 
> > > get a different result (I don't think my old pump was ever 
> broken, 
> > I 
> > > just replaced it as a revamp)  - should I even bother with 
> that?  
> > SO 
> > > I'm pretty sure that the relay is bad becasue I get no voltage 
> when 
> > > it is place and at least I get 9.5 when I have the jumper in 
> place. 
> > > I hope to have some more info by tomorrow evening...  :)
> > > 
> > > 
> > > > 
> > > > It's not a dumb question. Remove the air cleaner and press 
> down 
> > > the 
> > > > air flow sensor, spray in a little starter fluid. DONT go 
nuts 
> > > with 
> > > > it. You could flood the engine or worse, have a wicked back-
> fire.
> > > > 
> > > > Just a "one thousand and one" squirt. Start the car 
> immediately 
> > > > before it all evaporates.
> > > > 
> > > > Tell me again: Did you hear or feel fuel pump activity with 
> the 
> > > good 
> > > > jumper in between 30 and 87?? Did you measure 12 volts at 
the 
> > fuel 
> > > > pump wires when the jumper was in place??
> > > > 
> > > > Don't bother starting the car with the relay in place. We 
> already 
> > > > know it doesn't work.
> > > > 
> > > > If you have 12 volts on the fuel pump with the jumper and 
you 
> > hear 
> > > it 
> > > > buzz, with the jumper, it's worth a test start. 
> > > > 
> > > > Rich A.
> > > > #5335
> > > >

---

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