Careful sticking hands under car -- fan cowls (factory style) do not cover entire blade. Just feel from front. Or see if piece of paper sticks to screen. Bill Robertson #5939 >--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Andrew <aos+yahoo@xxxx> wrote: > On Thu, 23 Oct 2003, content22207 wrote: > > > Fan problem can be masked by air forced over radiator while moving. > > Hi Bill. > > I'm a little leery of the fans myself. One of them is 22 years old. The > other is almost new (lost an original about a year ago--last time I had an > overheating problem). > > Every time I've checked, both fans have been working, but I've never had > the opportunity to check when I'm actually experiencing a problem. I'm > always in traffic somewhere, so it's not the best time to get out and > start sticking my hands under the car. :) > > > Start at otterstat and move forward: > > - Ensure fuse 5 good > > - Jump otterstat > > - Ensure whatever's in fan relay socket has closed > > - Check for voltage through circuit breaker > > - Ensure whatever's in fan fail socket is routing to each fan (circuit > > splits here) > > - Check for voltage at fans themselves > > - Check for good grounds after fans > > All good things to do. This procedure is on my list of things to play > with over the weekend. > > I think the biggest challenge here is going to be the fact that this > problem is really sporadic. I noticed it the first time the day we > installed a new AC compressor, but then no more problem for several weeks. > It's happened two more times, separated by about a week. It seems like I > can drive around with no apparent cooling system distress and then all of > a sudden it pops up. > > I wonder if maybe the apparent relationship between the AC and the problem > *is* electrical... One of those fans is 22 years old... Perhaps it's > quitting under low voltage when it's really hot (certainly going to happen > at idle on a hot day with the AC turned on) and then turning the AC off > gives it enough of a voltage spike that it starts spinning again. Seems > plausible. > > I'm tempted to pick up a $30 webcam and duct tape it up under the car and > get a friend to sit in the car with a notebook computer and just watch the > fans. You never know. > > > If fans spin like this but you're losing on the road check for: > > - Bad otterstat > > - Right side up otterstat (traps air) > > Would either one of these matter if I've got the AC turned on? Aren't the > cooling fans on whenever the AC is on? > > > Ensure ALL cooling system hoses are fresh. Are too many DeLo's running > > around with questionable ones. Don't overlook hoses and O rings under > > intake manifold. > > Should be no problem here. I didn't mention before that this is a 197 > horsepower DMCH crate engine with about 3000 miles on it. It's got pretty > fresh hoses. Some of them are actually Samco silicone hoses, so I know > they're good. > > > If you don't have self bleeder under thermostat housing, highly > > recommend installing one. Ensure bleeders intact in heater core supply > > line and radiator return line. > > I had one on my old engine, and when I upgraded to the 197, DMCH didn't > move it to the new engine. They said they don't like those (although I'm > honestly not sure why). They gave me back all the parts, though, and said > "put it on yourself if you want it," so I can certainly put it back. I > had no problems with the self-bleeder on my old engine. > > > Is very bad to overheat an aluminum engine, especially one with as > > many seals as ours. > > Yeah, and I've gotten it pretty hot twice now, which I really hate, > because it's a brand new engine. I've never hit the top of the > temperatuge gauge, though, and never boiled over, so I'm probably still > okay. > > I noticed something today after I got home and stopped in the garage. My > temp gauge was a little high, but nothing extaordinary. Maybe 5 mm above > the the normal line. As I sat in the garage, I cycled the AC on and off a > few times and noticed that when the compressor clutch engaged, the temp > gauge would *immediately* jump up 5 mm above the line and when the clutch > disengaged, it would *immediately* jump down to the normal line. I don't > care what kind of heat load the AC is putting on the system. No way is > the temperature changing that fast. This leads me to wonder if I might > even be seeing electrical gremlins in the gauge rather than actual > overheating. Maybe I should a remote temperature probe on the block and > start monitoring directly. > > -andrew > #4115 > Houston TX Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ADVERTISEMENT <http://rd.yahoo.com/M=194081.4074964.5287182.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=170512 6215:HM/A=1754016/R=0/SIG=11pv1u2ju/*http://www.ediets.com/start.cfm?code= 30529&media=atkins> click here <http://us.adserver.yahoo.com/l?M=194081.4074964.5287182.1261774/D=egroupm ail/S=:HM/A=1754016/rand=111865691> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: DMCForum-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
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