Re: [DML] Re: She starts (painfully), she runs (mostly), she doesn't go anywhere...

[Ian <texas.twister@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Look at the Bosch filter inlet. If you see a black plastic piece just past the threaded portion, don't use it. The threaded portion of the inlet line can bottom out against it restricting flow and causing fuel starvation. I don't know if John is selling old stock or new for the filter. 
The low voltage ends up requiring more amperage to run the pump. This will eventually burn out the pump. There have been several threads on this issue. My particular voltage loss was mostly due to the crimped eyes on the wiring harness that connect to the fuel pump. Years of messing with the harness had loosened up the crimping. I got a new piece of harness and soldered the lugs. Check your inertia switch too. Make sure the ground is good as that is what the pump is grounded through. Does your fuel pump make a lot of noise after the car is warm?  The high amperage may have damaged it if this has gone on for awhile.  Not sure about your modified wiring. I've only ever had 2 wires running to the pump. 
If you are running the original pick up hose in the tank from the pickup to the pump then you should replace it. They tend to collapse, starving the pump, when the fuel gets warm. I was on the road when this happened and stuffed a spring down it to keep it from collapsing till I got a new hose. 

Ian Yanagisawa

On Jun 17, 2013, at 9:05 AM, JP Hindin <jplist2008@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> 
> 
> On Fri, 14 Jun 2013, Ian wrote:
> > Have you updated your fuel system? If not your fuel pick up hose may be
> > collapsing starving your engine for gas. There is a new one that is
> > alcohol resistant. If you replaced the fuel filter with a new Bosch
> > filter, get rid of it and put in a Wix or other equivalent. Internal
> > changes in the Bosch filter caused me nightmares until I figured out
> 
> I purchased a new Bosch filter from SpecialT a few months ago but never
> put it on. What kind of changes?
> 
> > what it was. Check your voltage at your pump while it is running. It
> > should be at least 12.5 volts. Check contacts and grounds if it is not.
> 
> First thing I checked on Saturday and, alarmingly, 9.3v. The connector to
> the pump has been modified, but I'm not sure at what point. What used to
> be a four-wire connector now only has two - is that because its a newer
> replacement pump that does not require the other two lines? Or was it done
> at the factory for some odd reason?
> 
> I'll have to figure out where the wiring goes so I can follow it.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> - JP
> 
> > On Jun 14, 2013, at 10:06 AM, JP Hindin <jplist2008@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > On Fri, 14 Jun 2013, Welmoed wrote:
> > > > Allowing a car to reach operational temperatures by merely idling is not the right way and even can be destructive in the long run.
> > >
> > > This seems to fly against conventional wisdom. What makes you say this?
> > >
> > > > The D can start and run reliably if not neglected over a long period of time.
> > > > Of course during a winter period it's difficult to find the right moment to give her a proper spin.
> > > > In such cases better prepare the car for long "sleep".
> > >
> > > I was under the impression the KJet requires fairly regular fire-ups to
> > > move the gas through the system and keep in a working state. It seems to
> > > me that when it's left idle (as in, non-running) is when Bad Things
> > > Happen.
> > >
> > > If a 'long sleep' requires draining all the fuel out of the system, it can
> > > be done, but it's certainly inconvenient. (My 43 year old Ford with
> > > massive twin side-draught carbs - /Italian/ carbs no less - does not
> > > require nearly as much pampering)
> > >
> > > > For now:
> > > > - check fuel quality and if not sure, drain the tank or add fresh fuel to see if that helps.
> > > > - check everything involved that cause your hot start problem.
> > >
> > > I drained the entire fuel system last year and cleaned out the tank by
> > > hand, so unless Iowa gas degrades over six months, it should be fine.
> > > Prior to my purchasing the car the entire system was pretty much replaced
> > > excepting the Warm Up Regulator. Which I suppose I could do to round-out
> > > the system.
> > >
> > > So what's the solution? How do you keep this system operating reliably
> > > over the long term?
> > >
> > > - JP
> > >
> > > > --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, JP Hindin <jplist2008@...> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > My DeLorean has a hot-start issue that I've not bothered dealing with yet,
> > > > > so it usually only gets out for 30 minute runs out-and-back. Last time it
> > > > > was on the road was probably December. Over the Iowa winter I'd fire it up
> > > > > once a month, generally, a let it idle for ten minutes to get the moisture
> > > > > out of the oil. I've been waiting for nice days in the summer, but it's
> > > > > rained a LOT out here, so I haven't started it up in maybe three or four
> > > > > months.
> > > > >
> > > > > Usually it's a bit of a pain to start. Lots of fire and die and then
> > > > > eventually it'll settle into a clean idle and run like a champ.
> > > > >
> > > > > Yesterday I got in to take it out because it was finally a nice day and it
> > > > > was a real bear to even get it to idle, and after at least five minutes of
> > > > > crank-fire-and-die, it settled into an unusually lumpy idle, but ANY
> > > > > throttle input would cause the engine revs to drop to the point of it
> > > > > dying. As such, I was unable to actually go anywhere because the best it
> > > > > could manage was an idle.
> > > > >
> > > > > Is this a common issue with the KJet that I've yet to come across in my
> > > > > nine months of DeLorean ownership, or should I be concerned?
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks all;
> > > > >
> > > > > - JP
> > > > > 50441
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
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> >
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> 


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