Yes, I know all about the switch, I went through the "adjust it" then "don't adjust it" advice on the DML back in 2001 :) I eneded up buying a new switch back then. I did an interesting (to me anyway) experiment recently. I had my new switch and the old original rusty one which I had no idea if it had been tampered with in the past. Using some bits of hose and ac fittings, I hooked the new switch to my pressure regulator I use for HVLP paint spraying. Starting at 0 psi, I slowly increased the air pressure until switch closed. You can hear it close, and I used a meter to verify. I did this a few times and consistantly the switch closed at 40 psi of air. It was easy then to reset the original switch to match. Might be useful if anyone has a bunch of switches with misadjusted settings lying around. At $9, just buying a new switch is probably the best idea. Marty #3765 --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Tom" <tomciodmc@xxxx> wrote: > From: "David Teitelbaum" > <SNIP>You could also have a low presure > switch way out of adjustment. The compressor MUST cycle. Try adjusting > it. It is the screw in between <SNIP> > > NO NO NO, Do not touch the switch!! C'mon David... If the pressure is too > high on the low side then the switch will not activate. The switch doesn't > control the pressure, it's the other way around. The switch should disengage > the compressor when the low side pressure drops to between 29 and 35. When > the pressure stays above 50 the switch will have nothing to do with it. > Dirty or plugged condenser (the thing in front of the radiator) will cause > the high side pressure to rise. Plugged orifice will cause low side to be > too low and high side to be too high. Open (broken, missing) orifice will > cause the low side to read high and high side to read low. > In this case the high side is a bit high, but without knowing what the > outside temperature was it's difficult to say... it might be ok. The low > side is way to high. This to me would indicate a problem with the compressor > or overcharged system. When there is too much refrigerant in the system > there is just no place for the compressed freon to go. It is forced through > the orifice at high pressure and keeps the low side pressure too high > causing the evaporator to freeze over. 36 ounces of R-12 is correct but that > applies to factory system in a D. That means that if you have shorter hoses, > smaller accumulator, bent/damaged condenser, too much oil, etc. then it > would be too much for the system. > I would recommend charging the system with less freon. BTW, make sure that > you are really putting 36 ounces in there. Is your measuring system correct? > If you are using a scale, is it good? And the main thing is - Are you > putting 36 ounces by weight or 36 fluid ounces?? It's suppose to be a weight > measure. Or just switch to the metric system and use 1000 grams of R-12 :) > > Good luck! > > Tom Niemczewski > tomciodmc@xxxx pl -> www.deloreana.com > VIN 6149 (in Poland!) > Save the dream so you can live the dream... To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/