A-ha! so there are two of us with this exact same problem. I've been moaning on this list on this issue for a couple of years, and this is good stuff, Maynard. My problem has increased in intensity (problem evident at lower and lower temperatures; it's now a problem in the upper 80's), and sometimes won't start unless I do the ole switcheroo for the usual hot-start problem. I will check that relay and the wiring, though I don't think the wiring is it-- I've put in a new coil & resistor during these two years of issues and it was all inspected then. That relay though... and I do need to clean the ground again. David, how does one verify the cold start valve? I don't think this one was mentioned back in May when I was asking for help last. and I still haven't done everything that mentioned then... so I can't moan too loudly. Todd, you may want to go back to May-June to read up on the discussions then. Google "hot outside" on the groups.yahoo.com/dmcnews<http://groups.yahoo.com/dmcnews>site. Keep us (especially me!) updated on what you find and I will do likewise (though I won't have time to play with it this weekend). -Kevin #4687 On 7/28/05, Harold McElraft <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx> wrote: > > These are always difficult to diagnosis. Assuming you have a > generally good tune on the car, there are some typical issues that > can cause your symptoms. > > Since you are "getting by" for now I would suggest a few simple > checks before embarking on a major test or part swap campaign. > > Check the ignition high-volt start circuit. Primarily the relay > mounted on the firewall by the engine compartment light switch. It > is often overlooked and if it is not functioning can cause a hard > start. Interestingly, the relay does not show in any wiring diagram > I've seen either. The circuit does but not the relay. If the ground > to the engine for the relay is disconnected or weak the relay will > not function and there is no hot spark voltage. So, check this relay > and its wiring. > > Check all the wiring to the coil and the voltage resistor - good > connections are important here. > > Swap out the RPM relay. If you don't have a spare you should have > one - These can act up and there are a couple of versions - one > being better than the other as you might suspect. See Hervey's web > page for an explanation. > > Run a cleaner in the fuel system. Selecting the right cleaner can be > somewhat of a problem because some cleaners may be dangerous to the > seals in the fuel system. I recommend Marvel Mystery Oil - the red > stuff. I have used this stuff in D's for 20 years and it keeps the > fuel system spotless - not to mention the intake valves and ports, > etc. - spotless. It can also clean deposits from the internal check > valves and improve the seal for a longer fuel pressure leak-down. > > Harold McElraft - 3354 [long quote trimmed by moderator] To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/