[DML] Clutch will not disengage fully

[Jeff Phillips <rvparty@xxxxxxxxx>]

Hi again all, I replaced the leaking clutch master cylinder and all
was well for about a day.  After driving the car to the next town and
getting a bite to eat the clutch would not disengage fully.  I drove
back to Biloxi and went into a casino, when I left an hour later the
clutch would barely disengage at all, I had a difficult time getting
her home.  I went ahead and re-bled the clutch and did not find any
air in the system.  The clutch pedal is as stiff as it always has been
and I'm seeing atleast 1-1.5" of travel of the clutch fork.  I have an
adjustable cleavis pin on my new master cylinder and by extending that
to its maximum distance I was able to improve the situation but not
enough to eliminate it (I prefer to fix the root cause, not just
over-compensate for it).  Here is a bit of history.  A new clutch TO
and pilot bearing, rebuilt clutch disc, stainless clutch line, new
master and rebuilt slave cylinder went in in '99 by the PO. I replaced
the master cylinder yesterday.  The clutch does not slip but the TO
bearing is now making a fair amount of noise.  The clutch fluid bled
out shows quite a bit of color and bits of deteriorated rubber which I
assume is coming from the old master cylinder that was in poor
condition.

How much travel should the clutch fork have to disengage the pressure
plate?  Aside from the throwout bearing noise my problem seems to
still be hydraulic.  Is it possible that the slave cylinder is now the
culprit?  When the slave goes bad does it leak visibly (mine shows no
external leakage)?

Help me out with this one, I can't seem to get this one solved.

Thanks,
Jeff
#10544




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