Early cars had a recall to re-wire the relay that powers the starter solenoid and the connection is sent to the fan speed circuit breaker. Later cars had this as standard. You need to check that connection - if you read up these instructions, you should be able to find the relay and trace that wire http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/starterfix.html With this connection off, you'll get the symptoms you describe. The fuel pump should not switch on until the engine actually cranks. Martin usndmc wrote: >Hey all, > >I went out and upgraded my original 25 and 35 amp blower motor and >cooling fan circuit breakers to the 30 and 40 amp ones that I hear are >recommended. I had to modify the wiring from the original male quick >disconnect tabs to the post connectors to work with my new ones. I >made sure not to mix up which wires connected to which posts, but when >I finished and tried to start the car nothing happened. Turn the key, >and the dash lights and radio and console clock all come on and I hear >the click from the relay compartment but after that, nothing. No >starter, no fuel pump. I unplugged and reconnected the RPM relay, >checked that all the other relays were secure in their sockets, and >checked all the fuses. What did I do????? > >Thanks for any help! >Dave >#5968 > > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/