[DML] Re: Cooling System Problems (David T)

["content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Perhaps you misunderstood: I made both mods myself. I know the
original configurations very well because they were in place before I
deviated. 

Stock DeLorean cooling system is slightly schizophrenic (all the
separate pipe sections). A person could be forgiven thinking that JZD
had started a hose clamp company adjacent to the factory in Dunmurry.
I have simplified mine to just the 2 in the engine compartment
(necessary for "otterstat" and expansion tank connections) and 4
adjacent to the frame/under the fuel tank, which I wish were just 2
and may in fact replace as such some day. Everything else is rubber.

Return pipe section between the radiator and under tank pipe (the one
with the bleeder barb) is very difficult to maneuver into place.
That's a major reason I jetisoned it in favor of flexible hose (which
of course required routing the radiator bleed somewhere else).
Cushioning it with a piece of foam seems like yet more DeLorean
fix-it-on-the-fly engineering. How is that foam supposed to survive
next to the pavement anyway? 

The purpose of my bleeders is not to mask some underlying condition,
but to make coolant changes easier. Simply fill the system and start
the engine.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxx> wrote:
> 
> 
> The overheat protector IS the continuous bleeder that is installed on
> the thermostat housing. It is NOT connected to the bleed hose on the
> radiator. The bleed hose on the radiator is connected to that special
> pipe on the right side of the car. It is not a simple tee'd in
> connection. The small pipe connected to the small hose off the top,
> right side of the radiator goes inside the larger return pipe and
> creates a venturi effect essentially pulling from the top of the
> radiator to remove any air that is trapped. It doesn't seem to work if
> the radiator is completely full of air so on an initial fill you
> loosen the hose at the top of the radiator when pressurizing the
> system to get most of the air out. From then on the bleed hose is
> there to remove any air that may get trapped in the radiator. Same as
> the overheat protector. Rerouting the bleeder to the heater hose may
> only be putting air into the heater core and not getting it back to
> the header bottle. The "best" route would be to just run the hose
> right to the header bottle if you wanted to run "uphill". In any case
> you still are coming off the fragile plastic barb on the origional
> plastic tank. Check out your radiator carefully. I bet you it is green
> around the edges. After 20 years it is time to replace it. On a new
> radiator you will get metal tanks and a metal barb to attach the hose
> to. If you are rubbing the epoxy with the pipe you are missing a piece
> of foam padding to prevent that. I have no problem with installing a
> continuous bleeder on the thermostat housing. My problem is it should
> be done with all the other things it takes to make the system work
> right and not rely on just it to "fix" the problems caused by leaks.
> By fixing a symptom you are not going to fix the real problem.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 









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