[DML] Re: Flat running

["cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx>]

Hi John,

All good questions. I'll address them. :)

1. WOT= Yes, the WOT switch.

2. When I adjust the throttle linkage, I also adjust the screw that
activates the idle microswitch. I've actually adjusted the throttle
linkage to totally close the throttle plates. The only place that
baby's pulling air now at idle, is the idle regulator (I may yet have
a minor vacuum leak or two). I make sure the idle regulator goes on
line when the throttle is at rest. Well, you know what I mean.

3. I do wait for the engine to warm up before performing any
adjustments. :)

Thanks again,

Rich

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "John Hervey" <john@xxxx> wrote:
> See below.
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: cruznmd [mailto:racuti1@xxxx]
> Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2003 8:55 AM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] Re: Flat running
> 
> 
> I agree that the WOT wouldn't be the sole cause of this.( Are you
talking
> about the WOT switch.)
> I put the timing light on the engine and the timing advanced as I
> revved it up. It appeared to be in spec with what the manual required.
> The advance solenoid clicks when I open & close the idle microswitch
> but that doesn't necessarily mean it's working does it?
> ( Normally yes unless the diaphragm is broken.)
> 
> Vacuum lines are routed in accordance with the diagram in the engine
> cover.( ok )
> 
> Initially, the car idled roughly and would hard start cold and I'd
> have to feather the gas to keep it running. It appears that the cause
> of this was incorrectly set CO screw.
> ( If the screw isn't set correctly the control plunger in the
distributor
> isn't high enough to feed the injectors.This adjustment is critical, the
> plunger in the rest position has shut off fuel to the injefctors,
then when
> you start to crank the small amount of air sucks down the metering plate
> which makes the plunger rise, thus you feed the injectors. )
> I started richen the mixture,( ok )
> and keep the idle sane by adjusting the throttle linkage (which was
> on an extreme end anyway by P.O.) and re-setting the timing. ( ok,
but what
> happened to the micro switch settings if you re adjusted the
throttle body
> lever)
> 
> Now it starts and idles like a dream from stone cold. It has more
> power, but still not enough. I feel I have a little more play with
> the fuel mixture but when I reach the point of diminishing returns
> I'll have to put a pressure gauge on the system and check control
> pressure.
> ( Rich, It starts now because you have adjusted the control plunger
to rise
> high enough manually, but it may be out of adjustment as the engine
would
> normally run. In other words the plunger may not be rising high
enough or to
> much now to give the correct amount of fuel. Thus, slow or sluggish
or not
> enough power. Keep in mind all this adjusting has to be done when
the engine
> is hot.
> John Hervey
> 
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxx>
> wrote:
> > The WOT on has a minimal impact so I doubt if that is not your
> > problem. Does it start and idle OK? If so, I would suspect failure
> > in the vacuum advance system somewhere, the throttle plate is
> > sticking or, the idle motor switch that operates the vacuum advance
> > solenoid in unison with the idle motor is stuck too, like your WOT
> > micro switch. Are the vacuum hoses routed properly? Double check
> > this too. Timing light is a tool that can tell you if the advance
> is
> > operating.
> >
> > Harold McElraft - 3354
> >
> >
> > --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> > > My suspects are: timing advance failure, combined with the
> absence
> > of
> > > the WOT microswitch, and/or maybe some smaller vac leaks. Any
> > > additional suspects are welcome.
> > >
> > > Rich
> > > #5335