Re: Torsion bar help
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Re: Torsion bar help



Dave Swingle has said it all but I would like to add some personal
comments. The area you have to work in to remove the anchor bracket is
VERY close to the edge of the S/S "T" panel. With the plastic valence
removed the edge of the S/S is exposed and is VERY SHARP. You can cut
yourself badly and not even notice it until you see red juice all over
everything! If the end has expanded a lot it may even be cracked in
which case the allen wrench may not be able to hold it and it can let
go without warning. This is the real reason many times the torsion bar
was cut figuring it was trash anyway. If you do manage to get it apart
you "may" be able to salvage it (if it isn't cracked) by very careful
filing of the splines (onlu on the torsion bar NEVER the bracket).
Take your time here and you may be lucky. Another problem area is
sometimes the threads on the 2 small bolts is crossed and you might
have to retap them and replace the bolts. When things go well almost
anyone can do this. When things go not so well you really need an
experienced hand, in the middle of this process it may be impossible
to stop without losing the rear window. Don't think you can do this
alone. Have at least 1 helper, preferable 2 (an extra to dial 911 or
fetch things) and use a long pipe on the breaker bar so your assistant
can hold the torque on the torsion bar for long periods of time while
you try to "walk" the anchor bracket off. This is one of the more
dangerous procedures to do on a Delorean so it IS best to have someone
who has done this before. If you do have to sacrifice the torsion bar
at least it is the passenger one which is available and not too expensive.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxx> wrote:
> That happens a lot. It means someone before you adjusted the door 
> with the allen bit not seated all the way into the torsion bar, 
> causing the head of the bar to expand. 
> 
> NOTE - THE FOLLOWING IS NOT FOR THE FAINT OF HEART. SCREWING UP WILL 
> COST YOU A BACK GLASS AND/OR T-ROOF. BEST TO FIND SOMEONE WITH 
> EXPERIENCE. DON'T SAY I DIDN'T WARN YOU. YOUR MILEAGE MAY 
> VARY.......With that caution. . . .
> 
> With the door open, the remaining twist in the bar is approximately 
> 90 degrees. You can see that a 90-degree twist in the clamp from 
> normal puts the ends squarely thru the roof panel and the back 
> window. 
> 







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